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Mate, we all started somewhere - and I bet most of still refer to "thingies" and "whachamacallits" lol The fact that you managed to get the filter in without major diffuculty and no leaks would suggest that it is installed correctly

Hey group I'm new here! Thought I'd share a new pic taken today and if you can be arsed take a look at my YouTube walkaround of my mods. First ever vid I've done so go easy on me 🤞https://youtu.be/ge8Wb4rckc0

A mere drop in the ocean compared to some of you!!!

Well this is the result after today's attempts:

I abused by fiesta running over 160bhp & I forget how much torque for a few months around a town with a few runs on B roads etc. During my engine change I checked the condition of the clutch and it was absolutely fine. Loads of life left in it

Two feeds to four box's mate Three bedrooms and one living room allowing pause and record at each box. Seems a bit mad but only cost a bit of cable at the time 😅

I'm sure there was a thread/posts about dodgy installations a while ago but I can't seem to find it. Here's a close up of the SKY cable on the roof outside our hotel window. Note the cable clip through the roof slate!!!

yoo been looking at this site on and off for a while for bits, never made an account before though, ive had a mk3 escort for nearly a year now its my first car but it needs a fair bit of work lol gonna try and get most of it done this summer as long as i dont run out of money haha i need some welding doing and might have a full respray depending on how much its gonna be i havent got a clue really, just need any suggestions on who to go to for resonable prices and decent quality jobs etc, if anyone knows anyone or anythin let me know!! cant put any pics on atm cuz my phones rakt off but il try sort somethin out if i need to lol

I was debating on whether to put this in the do like or don't like thread, but I guess I do like successfully getting to Edinburgh this afternoon to visit my uncle in hospital. He's not in great shape, but getting the attention he needs. The Rover made the 370 mile journey without any problem, plenty of power for overtaking and cruise control for the A9 and motorways. It is a terrific car indeed.

I did notice you were at 999 yesterday, so congratulations on the milestone! Many more thousand to come...

This is a bit of a relief -- so my 2013 titanium will have a regular bulb for the brake light? I suspect my right ones gone. Will save some notes if it's just a regular bulb rather than having to swap the unit like you do with the stock front DRLs...

Sorry I haven't done any yet as just after I had applied the polish and wax it poured down 😡

If its of any interest, these are the Cruz bars fitted. Can't say I like the way they fit over the roof into the door.

heavier focus with 1.0 ecoboost mapped to 140bhp, no issues with my clutch and on 52,000 miles with plenty of stop start driving , first 20k was a rental car so no doubt got abuse those miles too.

Yep...I'll have 4 pints of semi-skimmed, a loaf of bread and err...yeah, I'll take the Focus right there - no, not that one - the one next to the Fiesta...aye, that one!

I agree with Michael. I have an Ecoboost 100 that is coming up to 30,000 miles and never ha a problem with the clutch. Plenty of torque low down too.

Not sure why you think there is no Torque below 2k rpm. The 1.0L ecoboost engine develops it's maximum torque at about 1,400 rpm and stays pretty flat at that level until about 5000 rpm. I've only had my 140 bhp version of that engine for about 4000 miles but I can't say I've noticed any problems with the clutch operation. Then again I don't have to endure the more demanding environment you are describing apart from a very steep driveway that I reverse onto once a day at my workplace.

The OP3t runs Nougat beneath the OxygenOS. I picked up the 128GB on release and there is plenty of space for my daily use. Combined with an OTG cable and any typical cloud storage you can get and I don't see the need for expandable memory (personally).

its worth informing: The new SkyQ multi room works using WiFi no cables required unless you want to use a CAT5 CAT6 or CAT7 Version of RJ45 Network cable instead of WiFi The second box for multi room can pause and stream recordings from the main box aswell as independent viewing.👍 so I suppose the skyQ is moving towards less cables from the dish aswell because only the main box requires a double sattelite feed and apparently the 2TB main SkyQ box can record up to 3 channels while viewing or viewing & recording a 4th channel now I think we can both agree that that's unnecessary 😁 fur sure, be like a spider with an eye on everything.

Try ifixit or is it ismash not sure but google will help Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

Luckily no I haven't had any drivers flash me, nor was it picked up an issue at the last two mots I had.

This was my Titanium X Sport, toured Italy in it in 2015, regret selling it now

Put your VIN into the link below and the online manual/s should be appropriate for your car. I haven't seen a .PDF version for UK models. http://www.ford.co.uk/OwnerServices/Owners-Manual

Hi Alun welcome to the forum

I proffed a cable staple gun off a Virgin fitter once, it fell off the rear bumper of his van when he went around a corner having left it lying there by accident.

One of the sky installers we had previously left his satellite signal box behind. 3 hours later he returned for it after arriving at his next job and realised he hadn't got it.

If stop/starting in a traffic jam the car works it out and doesn't stop/start every time, you can override the system by turning it off if you so wish. There are a whole number of criteria that have to be met before the system works, engine temp, battery voltage and current power draw are all considered. The engine also needs to be properly lubricated before the system works. I do wonder about the longevity of parts but the stop/start technology has been around for 10years give or take and there hasn't been a lot of publicity of parts failing. A lot of components are now tested to complete up to 200-300% more starts. The biggest source of wear has been noted to be batteries, and as ford seem to use notoriously bad batteries these will be the first to go. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Changing the indicator bulbs won't help, the lens itself is orange. If you are going to change the headlight bulbs to LED/HID then I would recommend changing the whole lamp assembly as the reflector lens is not suitable for aftermarket kits, despite what the kits say. Consider; Window tints from the 'B' pillar back. Heko wind deflectors LED/CREE bulbs in the interior and also number plate lamps Gel overlay badges Sunstrip Short stubby aerial Lowering springs DRL kit Good headlight bulbs like Phillips ones or Osram nightbreaker laser Personally I'm not a fan of painted standard callipers and drums, unless you are painting the drums black and the callers grey/silver but each to their own. The wash and clay bar is a top idea, really show off the colour. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The app is defunct anyway so don't worry. I moved to tapatalk with no problems. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Any idea where it was going?

yeah, wilko knows more than me and ive worked at ford garages for 15 yrs!! if i dont know the answer to an issue , i quite often rely on wilkos knowledge.

and fiesta didnt have a recall on the hose that i know of i used to suffer slight coolant losss over time and never found where it was going. so after reading wilko had installed extra electrical coolant pump, i decided it woulf be a good idea to fit one myself. after fitting ,the coolant loss stopped. mine was not the only one to suffer slight coolnat loss. nearly every focus without the extra pump had a loss when they came in for service.

the coolant temps get hotter quicker, i noticed this while monitoring temp sensor via obd, supprised me how hot just accelerating hard for a few seconds. as for temp gauge, it is pretty useless indicator of temp. on my focus it read normal midway temp from approx 60 c to 110c( via obd )with needle not moving at all.

looking good yuni and if your focus is anything to go by I cant wait to see what else you do

If it looks fine on the outside I wouldn't worry (corrosion on the inside will be minimal due to the corrosion inhibitors in the coolant). According to Microcat the pipe fitted until Feb '14 was part code C1B1 8K276-AE which appears to have the insert, however from Feb '14 it changed to C1B1 8K276-BC which doesn't. It'd be good to hear if you find anything. Many cars do of course have level sensors but they are often an inherent part of the cap or bottle and so retrofitting one might be difficult, particularly given the importance of maintaining a pressure tight seal.

Most cooling system problems of the 1.0 ECOboost are caused by the higher coolant temperature. In relation to the older naturally aspirated petrol engines the direct injected, turbocharged 1.0 and 1.6 ECOboost petrol engines have a considerably higher engine and coolant temperature. This causes some plastic and vulcanised rubber materials that are used for some coolant system parts to deteriorate prematurely. Examples of this are the degas hose, coolant reservoir, coolant reservopir cap, etc. The Focus MK3/MK3.5 for example uses the exact same coolant reservoir as the earlier C-max MK1/Focus MK2. This type of reservoir was introduced in 2003 on the C-max MK1 and has been used for many engine types without any problems. The ECOboost engines are the only ones which suffers from premature coolant reservoir failures on a large scale. On the ECOboost engines the plastic material of the coolant reservoir can develop (micro)cracks and discoloration which in the end causes the reservoir to burst. Another point of concern is the coolant itself. The higher coolant temperature causes the coolant to crystallize. This causes crystal deposits to attach inside the coolant system parts. As a result of this for example the coolant reservoir cap can seize solid onto the reservoir. on the long term the deposits inside the cooling system can eventually cause blockages of the coolant system. Next to this the Earlier versions of the 1.0 ECOboost (build approximately before 2015) suffer from a design fault. These early versions only have a coolant temperature sensor that is mounted inside the coolant system and measures the coolant temperature. This sensor is used by the PCM to monitor the coolant temperature and control the temperature gauge and the temperature warning light. In case of a coolant leak the coolant leaks away pretty quick. When this happens the coolant temperature measures air instead of coolant. Air does not conduct the temperature very well. Because of this the PCM does not detect overheating of the engine at all or much too late. In this case when the driver notices the activated temperature warning light it is usually too late already. Serious engine damage as a result of overheating can occur without the driver even noticing. On later versions Ford solved this problem by installing an additional cylinder head temperature sensor. I have a 2013 low mileage (16000 MLS) Focus MK3 125 HP 1.0 ECOboost. When I bought the car in 2014 I already replaced the degas hose (not a recall yet at that time). Last Year the coolant reservoir developed microcracks and discoloration. This made me decide to perform the following actions: * Replace the coolant reservoir. * Replace the coolant reservoir cap. * Replace the coolant. * Install the additional electric coolant pump. After all parts were replaced I vacuum bled the coolant system and reprogrammed the PCM (necessary for the additional electric coolant pump). Luckily I have the skills/knowledge and tools to do this myself. i am currently investigating the possibility to install the additional cylinder head temperature sensor that is used on later versions of the 1.0 ECOboost. However earlier 1.0 ECOboost PCM's do not support this additional sensor. I will have to design a custom microprocessor controlled circuitry that monitors the output of both the coolant temperature sensor and the cylinder head temperature sensor and outputs a signal to the PCM.

Here's type of hose I mean - note the plastic intermediate section.

No, that's not the plastic I'm referring to. I'll see if I can dig out a picture.

Those muppets shouldn't be allowed a Stanley

Sky only care about taking your money, not how the cabling looks lol.

My old sky setup meant that the dish was at the front of the house and the box was in a room at the back. The fitter wasn't allowed to go in the loft so was going to throw the cable over the roof to get it from front to back. Luckily, he agreed to feed the cable into the loft and let me get it and pass it out the other side. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Poor show! That said, as long as the owner is happy with it and it isn't a listed building, then that is legal.

Eeeeeeeeh that reminds me of my diesel tit x sport. Effing good cars

Kwik Fit wouldn't even know where to look to start the car let alone fix owt!

Freshly washed!

Hi all just bought a 2012 focus zetec ! Looking to do a few little mods to it , window tints being done on tuesday got hid kit got wind deflectors what I'm looking for is changing all the interior lights to a nice green and maybe the ford badges to green any little mods or information would help me right out please Ryan

Many thanks to those who contributed to this thread, without it I would have had no chance, with it I changed the resistor pack today. The 2 gems of info above were "above the clutch pedal to the left" and "The resistor unit stands out because it is white". FWIW, here's my summary for the job on a 56 pate Fusion 1.4TDCi: Remove the panel below the steering column (not the one on the side of the centre console), by removing 3 cross-head screws on the lower edge, and 2 more that are accessible when you open the "coin holder", and then pull it off a clip at the top left. Using a torch and maybe a mirror, kneeling down next to the car and leaning into the footwell, look roughly across the top of the clutch pedal pivot, you can see some sort of black electrical module with a label that says something like "POS 2", and just visible above and further in is a white unit with a square grey electrical connector. This white unit is the resistor pack, so disconnect the grey electrical connector and if you position yourself just right, you should see the 2 securing screws - these are #20 Torx, and trying to get a screwdriver on them will leave you cursing, but persevere and you will get them, along with scratches and skimmed knuckles. Alternatively get someone with smaller hands and more supple joints to do it for you. Getting the screws back in to fit the new one was not as bad as getting them out, but be careful not to drop them as they will probably fall into an inaccessible place and rattle to irritate you further. A new unit was £28 from Ford. The Parts guy said he'd sold 3 already that Saturday morning. I did the one on my 54 plate focus a year or 2 ago - a thousand times easier.

Well, in any event the *Vaginal Orifice* that thought up the idea for that *Lovemaking* Bonnet Opening Mechanism should have their *posterior* flayed and then raw salt rubbed into it!!!!!!

Yeah, I was looking for SVA approved ones, and the flat ones with handles look the best. meanwhile I have to get the *four letter word alluding to a lady's front bottom* to open on the key, and the key won't even *four letter word alluding to 2 people doing something very intimate* TURN!! *Word alluding to Child born out of wedlock*! *sigh*

They take away a clean look far less than dents ;)