Right!

Ok, so after putting all the stuff back, it still wouldn't start. It was like as if it was lacking power to start, but my battery is pretty new, it's only a few months old. 

Anyway, I borrowed a phuqquin big van battery from a friend, kept cranking, kept cranking, and the vibrations were getting more frequent until it started! My battery works too now too.

Now, here's the thing... it runs, but not nicely! It lacks power and it's very smoky.

Sadly, I have not coded the new injectors because I couldn't find the codes!!!

So, that's as far as I am at the moment.

1 hour ago, Antonycc said:

Right!

Ok, so after putting all the stuff back, it still wouldn't start. It was like as if it was lacking power to start, but my battery is pretty new, it's only a few months old. 

Anyway, I borrowed a phuqquin big van battery from a friend, kept cranking, kept cranking, and the vibrations were getting more frequent until it started! My battery works too now too.

Now, here's the thing... it runs, but not nicely! It lacks power and it's very smoky.

Sadly, I have not coded the new injectors because I couldn't find the codes!!!

So, that's as far as I am at the moment.

Woop!   Glad it's finally running!

The injector codes are written on the injectors.

Once they're coded you'll need to take it for a short drive to 'bed' them in. If it still runs like crap you'll need to pull the latest fault codes and let us know what they are.

34 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Woop!   Glad it's finally running!

The injector codes are written on the injectors.

Once they're coded you'll need to take it for a short drive to 'bed' them in. If it still runs like crap you'll need to pull the latest fault codes and let us know what they are.

Thanks! Yes! It's working! Thanks for your help!

Oh! There is one thing which isn't on actually. A metal hose which comes from the EGR to the air intake thing. The thing is a ***** to put back on. If you don't twist it perfectly, the holes don't align and you can't put the screws in.

Right, so for future reference for people who also have this problem;

Get ELM327 and Forscan, go to scope mode and add FRP item (Rail Pressure). When cranking, you need over 20,000mpa. When you stop cranking, the fuel rail pressure should gradually drop, not instantly drop after stopping cranking. Without Rail pressure, the ECU won't try to fire the injectors.

If you have no pressure, when cranking, your problem is likely the fuel pump, the HP lines or the injectors. It can also be the pressure sensor or ECU.

For me, the pump had failed and sent ***** into the injectors.

🙂

The lines have to be tight, and I mean tight. The metal seals aren't forgiving. A tiny bit of looseness and you will not hold any pressure.

1 hour ago, Antonycc said:

Thanks! Yes! It's working! Thanks for your help!

Oh! There is one thing which isn't on actually. A metal hose which comes from the EGR to the air intake thing. The thing is a ***** to put back on. If you don't twist it perfectly, the holes don't align and you can't put the screws in.

No worries, just glad to finally get it solved haha!

You really need that metal hose on, you've got a massive boost leak without it, that'll be the reason it's running rough and smoking.

7 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

No worries, just glad to finally get it solved haha!

You really need that metal hose on, you've got a massive boost leak without it, that'll be the reason it's running rough and smoking.

Right! I've finally had chance to try it out. It run though as fork for about 10 miles. It was very jittery/shuddery. I out my foot down and sort of rode it out if that makes sense. At one point I dropped down and ragged it, I had a bit of a splutter, and coughed up a load of purple/black/grey smoke. It's a lot better now.

The only thing I need to address now is a leak. I'm not sure if it's fuel or engine oil at the moment.

 

I suspect it's fuel from the pump. Oooops.

For me, the pump had failed and sent ***** into the injectors

If that's the case, you should think about cleaning or flushing out the fuel lines and the tank or the **** may simply recirculate and reblock your injectors. 

19 hours ago, nicam49 said:

For me, the pump had failed and sent ***** into the injectors

If that's the case, you should think about cleaning or flushing out the fuel lines and the tank or the **** may simply recirculate and reblock your injectors. 

I've taken the crappy cylinder fuel filter off and put on a decent, big van one with replaceable papers. 🙂

Ok, an update; the leak seems to have stopped, but the jittering continues. It does it on acceleration at about 1500-2000 revs. It gets worse as it gets higher, but at 2000 revs, the jittering stops completely. It only does it in gears 3, 4 and 5.

How fast can you go in 2nd?

Did you manage to code the injectors yet?

Any fault codes showing on Forscan now?

2 hours ago, Antonycc said:

Ok, an update; the leak seems to have stopped, but the jittering continues. It does it on acceleration at about 1500-2000 revs. It gets worse as it gets higher, but at 2000 revs, the jittering stops completely. It only does it in gears 3, 4 and 5.

Those symptoms you describe are often something as simple as a split in a boost pipe. But you have to look carefully as splits tend to close up until boost pressure opens them up. 

13 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

How fast can you go in 2nd?

Did you manage to code the injectors yet?

Any fault codes showing on Forscan now?

I haven't coded them yet. I want to code them though. I did look and I didn't see any codes on them! Apparently, the code should be on the body.

12 hours ago, nicam49 said:

Those symptoms you describe are often something as simple as a split in a boost pipe. But you have to look carefully as splits tend to close up until boost pressure opens them up. 

What's a boost pipe? I take it that's something which comes off the turbo?

Just now, Antonycc said:

I haven't coded them yet. I want to code them though. I did look and I didn't see any codes on them! Apparently, the code should be on the body.

They will run a bit rough at low rpm until they're coded in.  Above 2k the PCM switches to a 'power over efficiency' type map so dumps more fuel in and runs better, at the expense of wasting some fuel and creating more emissions.  The codes should be stamped on the body or more often on the very top of Bosch injectors.

A boost pipe is anything between the turbo and inlet manifold, including the intercooler pipes.  Usually boost leaks get worse with more boost though, if your issue stops at 2k, I don't think it's that personally.

Worth checking for a split despite Tom's doubts, I experienced it 1st hand and for me it was a split in the manifold pipe. Let me explain, that Ford boost pipes are thick rubber with a mesh liner, and it's the rubber that splits, but the mesh liner holds the split closed making it hard to detect, but as boost pressure increases, the split starts to part, resulting in loss of boost, but then it seems that over 2k rpm the amount of boost is sufficient to make up for the loss thro' the split. When you look, don't expect to see an obvious gaping split, as I said, the mesh holds it closed, making it hard to find. For me, the split was on the inside of a bend, only discovered when I removed the pipe. 

On 5/31/2020 at 9:26 AM, TomsFocus said:

They will run a bit rough at low rpm until they're coded in.  Above 2k the PCM switches to a 'power over efficiency' type map so dumps more fuel in and runs better, at the expense of wasting some fuel and creating more emissions.  The codes should be stamped on the body or more often on the very top of Bosch injectors.

A boost pipe is anything between the turbo and inlet manifold, including the intercooler pipes.  Usually boost leaks get worse with more boost though, if your issue stops at 2k, I don't think it's that personally.

Good info! Thanks! It will be the coding then.

There are numbers on the injector bodies and the tops. I just have no idea what is what!

I'll sort it.

On 5/31/2020 at 10:43 AM, nicam49 said:

Worth checking for a split despite Tom's doubts, I experienced it 1st hand and for me it was a split in the manifold pipe. Let me explain, that Ford boost pipes are thick rubber with a mesh liner, and it's the rubber that splits, but the mesh liner holds the split closed making it hard to detect, but as boost pressure increases, the split starts to part, resulting in loss of boost, but then it seems that over 2k rpm the amount of boost is sufficient to make up for the loss thro' the split. When you look, don't expect to see an obvious gaping split, as I said, the mesh holds it closed, making it hard to find. For me, the split was on the inside of a bend, only discovered when I removed the pipe. 

Thanks, I'll check.

Ok, more updates! So, the shuddering has stopped for the most part. Here are some golden nuggets for other TDCI owners:

The injectors do not need to be coded on this model. One of my injectors has a code, the other 3 injectors don't. I've not coded any.

THE SHUDDERING: To fix the shuddering, take your injectors out, get a sharp blade, trap the injector in a vice, and clean the tip of the injectors until they are nice and clean. The tips of mine were coked up. A simple clean and it runs much much better.

Antony