Err, made in Germany. 

On 12/30/2021 at 1:27 PM, unofix said:

are you saying your 3 cylinder 1.0 Ecoboost engine uses cylinder deactivation and runs on only 2 cylinders at 70 MPH ?

Ecoboost engine specifications and general information:-

https://www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=131

I had heard/read somewhere that the Ecoblue does this when in Eco mode but no idea if its correct.

11 minutes ago, Wino said:

I had heard/read somewhere that the Ecoblue does this when in Eco mode but no idea if its correct.

They might do, but Diesel engines do not have Cylinder Deactivation.

On 1/10/2022 at 5:34 PM, iantt said:

Err, made in Germany. 

I meant from a German manufacturer!

I just purchased a 22 Ford Fiesta ST MK8.5, and the vibration at highway speed 80-110km/h feels like an unbalanced tyre, I rotated the brand new rims and tyres front to back to see if one wheel may be out of balance, same result. I then tried a commute in Sport mode, no vibration! This makes me think it’s the cylinder deactivation causing the vibration. But I have seen posts stating that cylinder deactivation still works in Sport mode? If so why is there no vibration in sport mode? Car has only done 1200km, love everything about it except the vibration is ruining the experience of owning a new hot hatch...

I also forgot to mention, I read that when Ford was developing cylinder deactivation for the 3 cylinder ecoboost, they were met with vibrations from the engine which wasn’t experience in the 4 cylinder engines, to compensate a little bit of fuel is sprayed into the deactivated cylinder ( for what reason I’m not sure) so maybe it’s a calibration of that process that is out? But if Ford can deactivate that system entirely through a software update I would be happy to do that.

Hi All,

 

Having recently purchased a 2020 - 1.0 litre 125ps Ford Focus I have since been on various dual-carriage and motorways on my hols this week, and have come across an unsettling vehicle vibration when travelling in sixth gear at approx. 61-68 mph.

 

Once up to the above-mentioned speed and with just the foot slightly depressing the accelerator to maintain speed the vibration starts.  If you take your foot off the accelerator OR press the accelerator further down then it stops, and thus I am presuming isnt wheel related.

 

The passengers of the vehicle were also noticing this vehicle vibration.

 

This also seems to occur, but is not as pronounced, using cruise control.

 

This sounds like the issue the rest of you are having. . . . has anyone managed to get this sorted by Ford??

 

Many thanks

 

On 9/27/2022 at 12:24 AM, Brassyboy said:

But I have seen posts stating that cylinder deactivation still works in Sport mode?

38 minutes ago, SgtAWilson said:

unsettling vehicle vibration

There's also another thread for people who haven't seen it... You could try disconnecting the cylinder deactivation solenoid to narrow it down (or ask your dealer to if you're concerned about warranty), as I talk about there. I believe cylinder deactivation is always disabled in Sport.

https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/132021-cylinder-deactivation/page/2/#comment-943052

 

Hello guys. I know this is an old thread but its worth a try.

I am experiencing the cylinder deactivation vibrations and it seems that putting it into sport doesnt change anything.

It is a 2018 Focus 1.0 EB 92kw with timing chain.

Is it possible that since it is the first MK4 model year that specific car doesnt have the ECU update that makes the sport mode disable cylinder deactivation? Or is that not possible? I bought the car last month and its driving me insane.

Thanks for any tips.

1 hour ago, esagshei said:

I am experiencing the cylinder deactivation vibrations and it seems that putting it into sport doesnt change anything.

I don't know but you could try unplugging the cylinder deactivation solenoid, to rule out it being a cylinder deactivation issue...

On another thread I described how to do it. When I did this, the check engine light didn't come on for a few drives, so you could just unplug it for one drive and the light shouldn't come on at all. (If the light does come on, it will prob turn itself off again after a few more drives or you can clear the light.)

See my posts here: https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/132021-cylinder-deactivation/page/2/#comment-943052

Mine is the 2021 1.5L auto but the solenoid should be in a similar position I guess. Mine is still running great. I never had the bad vibration issue, only a mild labouring in Normal mode which seems to have got better.

 

7 hours ago, Zeeb said:

to rule out it being a cylinder deactivation issue...

In may case, vibrations were stronger when outside temperature was low. That is because battery charging is more aggressive and torque load from the generator unbalance the whole engine. Try to observe if vibrations are somehow related to temperature and more stronger in the morning. I measured battery voltage, vibrations were noticeable when voltage was roughly above 14,7V. 

My engine is also 1.5EB. I killed the whole thing remapping ECU by rica.nl guys.

1 hour ago, piotrmod said:

In may case, vibrations were stronger when outside temperature was low.

I am in a warm climate. When winter comes I will observe.

1 hour ago, piotrmod said:

I killed the whole thing remapping ECU by rica.nl guys.

Do you mean you killed the vibration problem or killed your engine by remapping?

Do you have the auto or the manual? Did remapping remap Normal mode or only Sport mode?

1 hour ago, piotrmod said:

torque load from the generator unbalance the whole engine

That surprises me, I've never thought of that possibility.

3 hours ago, Zeeb said:

Do you mean you killed the vibration problem or killed your engine by remapping?

Do you have the auto or the manual? Did remapping remap Normal mode or only Sport mode?

Mine is manual, Y2018 (first version of 1.5EB, with cog driven oil pump).

Remapping disabled cylinder deactivation for all modes.

 

7 hours ago, piotrmod said:

Remapping disabled cylinder deactivation for all modes

Oh ok, I might do that when my warranty is up next year.

Edit: I see you talked about your remap in the other thread I linked to - I forgot about that.

8 hours ago, piotrmod said:

Mine is manual, Y2018 (first version of 1.5EB, with cog driven oil pump).

You probably know this already Piotr but for the benefit of others the Balance Shaft for these earlier 1.5 Engines is in a different position to the later ones as well as the Oil Pump drive being different.

I don't know if that makes the vibration worse or not. 

On 3/23/2025 at 1:29 AM, Zeeb said:

I don't know but you could try unplugging the cylinder deactivation solenoid, to rule out it being a cylinder deactivation issue...

On another thread I described how to do it. When I did this, the check engine light didn't come on for a few drives, so you could just unplug it for one drive and the light shouldn't come on at all. (If the light does come on, it will prob turn itself off again after a few more drives or you can clear the light.)

See my posts here: https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/132021-cylinder-deactivation/page/2/#comment-943052

Mine is the 2021 1.5L auto but the solenoid should be in a similar position I guess. Mine is still running great. I never had the bad vibration issue, only a mild labouring in Normal mode which seems to have got better.

 

Ok, will try, thanks!

Just as an update the issue existed in sport mode also. After years of this vibration/ hesitation especially on feather- light throttle it seemed to get worse. In the end I contacted ford to see if they could remove the feature but apparently they only offer that in the USA and not in UK.

In the end I purchased a “delete cylinder deactivation” software option from Rica.nl I ordered their isoftloader usb dongle and did the ECU update via that.

Now the car drives like new with zero hesitation/ vibration on light throttle. Albeit with around 6% less fuel economy due to the removal of the cylinder deactivation.

I also had an auto transmission oil change and added “Dr Tranny” lube to help the torque converter slight vibration also.

This was amazing stuff and the gearbox feels like new again and shifts so smoothly.

So I just wanted to update this post on my fix.

Transmission oil change and added friction modifier lube approx £160 at garage.

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Isoftloader and software purchase approx £300