9 minutes ago, Luke4efc said:

My next step would be unplugging the Bluetooth module to see if the current draw drops off at all.

Hi. Literally finished doing that 5 minutes ago. Same test conditions, car doors and bonnet 'locked open' with screw driver, locked with keyfob, key on other side of house, left for 1hr, bluetooth module removed.  Current draw reduced to 2.4amp from 2.7amp.

 

5 minutes ago, David13 said:

Current draw reduced to 2.4amp from 2.7amp

So Bluetooth module only takes abot 300mA

With such a high current draw I would be thinking of something like the boot/luggage lamp being on

22 minutes ago, unofix said:

So Bluetooth module only takes abot 300mA

Yes.

When running and shortly after turning the radio on and off 4 fuses produced a reading:

• Fuse 21 was 4.8mV which acccording to the chart is 1048 mA
• Fuse 22 was 0.9 mV which according to the chart is 83 mA
• Fuse 23 was 1.9mv which accoriding to the chart is 175 mA
• Fuse 24 was 0.1 mV which accoriding to the chart is 13 mA
   

20 minutes ago, unofix said:

With such a high current draw I would be thinking of something like the boot/luggage lamp being on

Checked all these before doing draw tests. All lights are off. Interior lights are switched off even when doors are open, removed the glove box light, boot light doesn't come on (checked by pulling rear seat forward to check). One of the benefits of it getting dark earlier is that this is easier to do. I am quite confident that no lights apart from the orange LED on the lock/unlock button on the centre console are illuminated.

 

Hi David, your results seem to be boucing around a bit. Back to the beginning your test showed fuse 23 to reduce the current draw by about 2 Amp. Now the latest test shows fuse 23 only to be 175mA, and that fuse 21 is just over 1 Amp. Something is not right !!

Time to get back to basics. Put the car back together leave the bonnet open and don't bother to lock the car or bonnet. Once again disconnect the negative lead and put your multimeter in series on the Amp range ------   Then leave it, do not disconnect the meter.

Come back in an hour or more and see what the meter is reading (you might have to wake the meter up, but don't disconnect it) I suspect your current draw is much lower than the 2.7 Amp you measured at one stage of your testing.

4 hours ago, unofix said:

Hi David, your results seem to be boucing around a bit. Back to the beginning your test showed fuse 23 to reduce the current draw by about 2 Amp. Now the latest test shows fuse 23 only to be 175mA, and that fuse 21 is just over 1 Amp. Something is not right !!

Time to get back to basics. Put the car back together leave the bonnet open and don't bother to lock the car or bonnet. Once again disconnect the negative lead and put your multimeter in series on the Amp range ------   Then leave it, do not disconnect the meter.

Come back in an hour or more and see what the meter is reading (you might have to wake the meter up, but don't disconnect it) I suspect your current draw is much lower than the 2.7 Amp you measured at one stage of your testing.

Hi,

 

Ok, I will do that tomorrow in the light. Struggling to think of a way to keep the probes connected to the terminal on the battery and cable - really have to ush them in currently.

1 hour ago, David13 said:

Hi,

 

Ok, I will do that tomorrow in the light. Struggling to think of a way to keep the probes connected to the terminal on the battery and cable - really have to ush them in currently.

Put the probe on the neutral terminal and then cable tie it in place. Open up the negative clamp whilst disconnected and insert the probe where the clamp tightens and tighten it up so it grips it. 

1 hour ago, David13 said:

Struggling to think of a way to keep the probes connected to the terminal on the battery and cable

Well I kind of think you just answered the question I didn't ask. I'm going to assume that when you have been measuring the current you didn't stand there for 20 minutes to half an hour holding the test probes on. Since it takes at least 20 minutes for the car to go back to sleep after the battery is reconnected then you have been measuring the current while certain modules were still active.

39 minutes ago, unofix said:

Well I kind of think you just answered the question I didn't ask. I'm going to assume that when you have been measuring the current you didn't stand there for 20 minutes to half an hour holding the test probes on. Since it takes at least 20 minutes for the car to go back to sleep after the battery is reconnected then you have been measuring the current while certain modules were still active.

Hi,

No I've been leaving the battery disconnected, leaving the bonnet open, leaving the car for 30 mins or so with the key on the other side of the house then getting the multimeter and connecting between the negative terminal on the battery and the negative cable. Every time the reading is 2.69amp

Followed this video religiously.

At 5:15 on this video, that is exactly what my situation looks like but the multimeter says 2.69.

I've ordered some wires for the multimeter with crocodile clips to do as you've described above.

You are missing the point. When you connect the multimeter to measure the current you are reconnecting the supply to the whole of the car. You then have to keep it powered up via the meter for at least 20 mins to half an hour for all modules to shut back down and go to sleep.

 

2 minutes ago, unofix said:

You are missing the point. When you connect the multimeter to measure the current you are reconnecting the supply to the whole of the car. You then have to keep it powered up via the meter for at least 20 mins to half an hour for all modules to shut back down and go to sleep.

 

Right, got it. Will wait for croc clips tomorrow and connect up and leave for 30+ mins

 

Hello,

So croc clips came today.

Slightly odd results, connected them up. 2.69amp draw (as previously discovered).

Tricked the bonnet to think that it was locked. Locked the car with the key fob.

The amp went up to 12, then dropped to 5 quickly. That was to be expected. Dropped to 0.8 shortly after and then 0.22. I watched for 5 mins. Then moved the key inside and left for 35 mins. Came back and it was at 0.01amp.

Which to me suggests either there is no draw or it is intemittent.

Only idea is, and I know you said that guesses were not a great thing is taking the bluetooth module out has reset it.

and to be honest that is what I expected you would find. You have been chasing a Red Herron 👍

4 minutes ago, unofix said:

and to be honest that is what I expected you would find. You have been chasing a Red Herron 👍

Fair enough. But this battery, fully charged with a CTEK MXS 5.0 drained to the point where I couldn't unlock the car or the eletric mirrors in 36 hours.
 

Fyi battery is under 3 years old, has been checked. So has the alternator. All okay.

mmm... there's a reason I have a reliable auto spark in my contact book LOL 🤣

4 hours ago, StephenFord said:

mmm... there's a reason I have a reliable auto spark in my contact book LOL 🤣

Forgive the lack of lingo. Auto Spark I assume means Automotive Eletrician?

9 hours ago, David13 said:

Forgive the lack of lingo. Auto Spark I assume means Automotive Eletrician?

OMG!! How old am I??? 🤣Yep - 'spark' = electrician LOL (for obvious reasons...) Honestly, young'uns these days! 😁

Hi David, 

I have had the same problem with my 2019 fiesta titanium. Had various Ford garages look at it with no solution. Please let me know if you find a fix. Car alarm goes off continually when battery is draining. I've disconnected battery, car alarm still sounds, can't turn it off as battery is flat. 

When you find out the solution can you please  tell me. I have a 2011 fiesta SEL with exactly the same problem, but fuse 5 and relay 8 in the glove fuse box were drawing all the current. I keep relay 8 and fuse 5 disconnectted when car is off otherwise battery dies. Very frustrating. I forgot to mention that my time and date display screen is not turning off after the car is off either. Tired of going around in circles.

4 minutes ago, Geor said:

... please send me an email at ********@gmail.com and tell me. ...

You should edit your post to remove your email address, should the need arise, you can always be sent a PM (privet message)