Hi,

I have a 2015 Ford Fiesta Titainium.

Over the past couple of weeks my battery has regularly been flat in the morning.

The battery is still quite new and I have had it test and it passed.

So on the advice of my local mechanic I did a parasitic drain check. Between the negative battery terminal and the cable that I just took off it the draw was 2.69 amps.

By removing fuse 5 (Passenger compartment fuse box supply) in the engine compartment fuse box I was able to narrowed it down to the glove compartment fuses.

Removed the glove box fuses that I suspected to be the cause and they were.

I removed:

fuse 15 (Audio system, instrument cluster)

fuse 21 (Audio system, (Navigation, Bluetooth (-2012)) )

fuse 23 (Multi functional display, clock, internal scanner, heating vents, air conditioning panel).

This dropped the draw from 2.69 to 0.22 (which I know is still way above 0.03 but it is a start.

My question is how do I fix or get this fixed?

5 minutes ago, David13 said:

fuse 15 (Audio system, instrument cluster)

fuse 21 (Audio system, (Navigation, Bluetooth (-2012)) )

fuse 23 (Multi functional display, clock, internal scanner, heating vents, air conditioning panel).

This dropped the draw from 2.69 to 0.22 (which I know is still way above 0.03 but it is a start.

You had to remove all 3 fuses to get it down to 0.22A or was it the last fuse (23) caused the current to drop ?

Get a laptop and put FORScan software on it and check for any DTC's. Also you can use live monitor and see if you can find what it is that draws current,

Hi, thanks for replying. Fuse 23 reduced it the mosts. About 2amp drop to 0.7 something. Fuse 15 and 21 reduced it the remaining amount.

I plan to redo the Parastic Draw tomorrow note down the drop on every fuse. (Get too dark after work in the UK now).

 

Secondary questions: is there away to trick the passenger door to think it is closed. Very unformfotable lying across the drivers seat and I am not that flexible. There doesn't seem to be a fuse puller would this one be acceptable? https://www.halfords.com/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/fuses/halfords-blade-fuse-extractor-209858.html
 

Edit: I also don't own a laptop. 😞

 

5 minutes ago, David13 said:

Hi, thanks for replying. Fuse 23 reduced it the mosts. About 2amp drop to 0.7 something. Fuse 15 and 21 reduced it the remaining amount.

I plan to redo the Parastic Draw tomorrow note down the drop on every fuse. (Get too dark after work in the UK now).

 

Secondary questions: is there away to trick the passenger door to think it is closed. Very unformfotable lying across the drivers seat and I am not that flexible. There doesn't seem to be a fuse puller would this one be acceptable? https://www.halfords.com/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/fuses/halfords-blade-fuse-extractor-209858.html

Yes, that would be fine. If you have another vehicle then check there isn't one in there, save you a trip to Halfrauds 😉

Can you possibly run through the procedure of performing a parasitic drain test? 

Hi, thanks for replying. I don't personally but will see if any nearby friends/relatives do.

As in, would you like me to descibe what I did?

 

A few things to remember when looking for the current draw. Keep the car key (keyfob) well away from the car (put it in the house) otherwise it will cause the car to keep detecting the key.

Also it takes about 15 to 20 minutes for all modules on the car to shut down and go to sleep after the doors are closed and locked.

Yes you can fool the passenger door in to thinking its closed and locked BUT be careful it you do it. Just use a large screwdriver and push the latch over in the lock as if the metal bar on the door post had engaged. Make sure you then don't try and close the door when the latch is like that or you will damage it. To put the latch back to normal just unlock the door

Just now, David13 said:

Hi, thanks for replying. I don't personally but will see if any nearby friends/relatives do.

As in, would you like me to descibe what I did?

 

Yes, if you wouldn't mind. I want to check the draw of my android auto box while the engine is off. I've noticed that my phone will connect to it via WiFi if I go near the car, even when it's all locked up.

2 minutes ago, unofix said:

A few things to remember when looking for the current draw. Keep the car key (keyfob) well away from the car (put it in the house) otherwise it will cause the car to keep detecting the key.

Also it takes about 15 to 20 minutes for all modules on the car to shut down and go to sleep after the doors are closed and locked.

Yes you can fool the passenger door in to thinking its closed and locked BUT be careful it you do it. Just use a large screwdriver and push the latch over in the lock as if the metal bar on the door post had engaged. Make sure you then don't try and close the door when the latch is like that or you will damage it. To put the latch back to normal just unlock the door

My key isn't wireless entry. But regardless because the drain was high I disconnected the negative terminal so when I did the drain check after work earlier in the week the battery hadn't been connected for hours so when I opened the door nothing switched on. I did close the door before my dad connected the multimeter up.

The battery still is disconnected so I assume if I follow the same routine that will be okay?

4 minutes ago, Jonro2009 said:

Yes, if you wouldn't mind. I want to check the draw of my android auto box while the engine is off. I've noticed that my phone will connect to it via WiFi if I go near the car, even when it's all locked up.

I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery. Hours later I cam back with key I manually unlocked the door, popped the hood and put a multi meter on 10A setting between the negative terminal and the wire that is connected to it and registered the 2.69a draw. Then went through the fuse board in the engine compartment.

Took the multimeter off and then got in the card, closed the door and got my dad (eletrical engineer) to take over the multi meter readings and then took out the fuses in the glove compartment fuseboard.

I had the vechicle manual so I knew which fuses were associated with which circuits. Thats where I got up too and now seeking help on here 🙂

This video was very helpful:

 

Just seen your thing about a fuse puller. Yes that will work for most fuses (might be too big for some). However there should be no need to pull many fuses. Just set you multimeter to the mV range and measure the millivolts drop across the back of the fuse test points. Most will be zero mV as they will not be live, look for any that have a volt drop of 20mV or more. It saves pulling loads of fuses.

14 minutes ago, David13 said:

I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery. Hours later I cam back with key I manually unlocked the door, popped the hood and put a multi meter on 10A setting between the negative terminal and the wire that is connected to it and registered the 2.69a draw. Then went through the fuse board in the engine compartment.

Took the multimeter off and then got in the card, closed the door and got my dad (eletrical engineer) to take over the multi meter readings and then took out the fuses in the glove compartment fuseboard.

I had the vechicle manual so I knew which fuses were associated with which circuits. Thats where I got up too and now seeking help on here 🙂

This video was very helpful:

 

Thank you very much, that makes perfect sense. I appreciate you explaining the procedure 👍

20 minutes ago, David13 said:

My key isn't wireless entry.

Your car still has a passive PATS security system and will still become active when the key is within range

19 minutes ago, unofix said:

Just seen your thing about a fuse puller. Yes that will work for most fuses (might be too big for some). However there should be no need to pull many fuses. Just set you multimeter to the mV range and measure the millivolts drop across the back of the fuse test points. Most will be zero mV as they will not be live, look for any that have a volt drop of 20mV or more. It saves pulling loads of fuses.

Okay, I will do this tomorrow are report back. Thank you.

I've read some places that the bluetooth module can be the cause of the parastic drain as in the bluetooth module searches for devices constantly.

I do remember that my phone will stay connected to my car for sometime hours after.

Also there seems to be a software update avaliable from here: https://www.ford.co.uk/owner/resources-and-support/sync-bluetooth/update#/

 

Is there away to find out which version is currrently installed out of curiosity.

Don't start guessing what the problem is, it can just lead you to false conclusions. Do proper fault finding, Step by step and you will find the real cause of the current draw.

Versions of software/firmware can be checked using FORScan.

2 hours ago, unofix said:

Don't start guessing what the problem is, it can just lead you to false conclusions. Do proper fault finding, Step by step and you will find the real cause of the current draw.

Versions of software/firmware can be checked using FORScan.

But I don't have a laptop or ODB2 connector. That's an easy £300 there, is the no way to find which software it is without connecting something else to it?

No, there isn't. If you haven't the tools, get it booked in. It is not the place of the forum to solve your every need. Fixing cars takes investment in equipment and education or paying someone who already made the investment.

Hi,

I checked the battery and it was registering at 12.6v.

So I locked the doors and the bonnet manually with a screw driver and then locked it the with the remote fob. The remote fob was moved to the other side of the house (at least 10m away). I left the car for an hour.

I came back, with the key still on the other side of the house and the car locked.

Tested each fuse with the multimeter. Not a single one registered a reading. Got my dad to have a look (Chartered Eletrical Engineer) couldn't get a reading. We checked the multimeter and it worked on other circuits.

So turned the radio on and re-did it and we got some readings. Turned the radio off again, waited until there was no audio and the screen turned off and we still got readings (but that is to be expected to my understanding). Some of them unexpectly high but the same fuses as before.

Does this give anyone any idea?

I've now left the car in the same state as before the test (doors and bonnet manually locked, locked with key fob, key on otherside) going to wait for an hour and then check the battery see the voltage and then disconnet and see the draw.

Quote

No, there isn't. If you haven't the tools, get it booked in. It is not the place of the forum to solve your every need. Fixing cars takes investment in equipment and education or paying someone who already made the investment.

 

Hi,

Thanks for the response. Usually I would do this, but explained it to seven garages and none would accept it including the ford dealer in my city.

Edited November 6, 20214 yr by David13
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2 hours ago, David13 said:

But I don't have a laptop or ODB2 connector. That's an easy £300 there, is the no way to find which software it is without connecting something else to it?

I wonder if you can use Forscan lite on a smart phone to check the software. The programme is free and an OBD connector is about £20 and a decent investment. 

46 minutes ago, anon said:

No, there isn't. If you haven't the tools, get it booked in. It is not the place of the forum to solve your every need. Fixing cars takes investment in equipment and education or paying someone who already made the investment.

That's helpful, and not really in keeping with the forum ethos. He's not asking anyone to solve it for him, just asking how he can possibly fault find at home. Perhaps he doesn't have deep pockets, and as he previously said he has taken it to several garages. 

Still have a current draw. But no fuses would register a reading with a multi meter.

Hello David, I assume you have rechecked the current draw by removing the battery negative lead and putting the multimeter on the Amps range in series.

If you have not found any mV drop across the back of the fuses tested then you need to keep looking for other fuses. As far as I remember the Fiesta 2015 has two main fuseboxes, one in the passenger compartment behind the glovebox, and another in the engine bay. There might also be a third small fuse box connected right next to the battery positive terminal (not sure about that on your model).

The current has to be going through at least one fuse. Are you making a good solid contact with the meter probes on the fuse test points ? Are you using a decent meter that can measure 20mV or less ?  -- Remember you are looking to measure Volt Drop across the fuse, not current through it.

As @Jonro2009 has said it maybe possible to use the phone version of FORScan to check some of the information. The phone version has a small cost which is about £7.

You would need an OBDII bluetooth dongle from TunnelRat Electronics £18.49

https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/WiFi_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045473.aspx

 

My next step would be unplugging the Bluetooth module to see if the current draw drops off at all.

14 minutes ago, unofix said:

Hello David, I assume you have rechecked the current draw by removing the battery negative lead and putting the multimeter on the Amps range in series.

If you have not found any mV drop across the back of the fuses tested then you need to keep looking for other fuses. As far as I remember the Fiesta 2015 has two main fuseboxes, one in the passenger compartment behind the glovebox, and another in the engine bay. There might also be a third small fuse box connected right next to the battery positive terminal (not sure about that on your model).

The current has to be going through at least one fuse. Are you making a good solid contact with the meter probes on the fuse test points ? Are you using a decent meter that can measure 20mV or less ?

As @Jonro2009 has said it maybe possible to use the phone version of FORScan to check some of the information. The phone version has a small cost which is about £7.

You would need an OBDII bluetooth dongle from TunnelRat Electronics £18.49

https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/WiFi_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045473.aspx

 

Hi,

 

Yes, exactly as you described.

My model only has two, one in the engine compartment and one in the passenger side behind the glove compartment.

First I though it was me not doing it right. Got dad to and he couldn't either. We switched the radio on without unlocking the car and tested and we were getting readings. Tested after the radio stopping producing sound the display had turned off and as expected the car was still live so there was a mV drop then. So we believe our technique is correct and the equipment being used is good. The multi meter can measure 20mV or less.



 

Edited November 6, 20214 yr by David13
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