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1.4 TDCI DuraTorQ Injection/glow plugs loom.


YBTURBO
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ok so car's been fine again since the other day but im looking for some tip's and or advice.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Waterproof-Electrical-Connectors-Assortment-Motorcycle/dp/B08ZSWWCWY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=car+connector+kit+708&qid=1637886304&qsid=260-6610570-8705328&sr=8-4&sres=B09DKMZLRZ%2CB0978MSFVP%2CB09H3CKPSR%2CB08ZSWWCWY%2CB09JLZ313J%2CB09J2F5R58%2CB09GJYXJK7%2CB09L3RXNWG%2CB082DBK9YQ%2CB09MBWG184%2CB09BVFLGV1%2CB09LY3QZ2J%2CB09LX6XP41%2CB09FSG48PK%2CB09J2F3Z19%2CB096BKCMRX

thats the connectors im looking at anyone know if they will be any good or advice on a make/place to get some decent ones. also any recommendations on a brand of cable to be used would be great. and then lastly any recommendations on a crimper to do the job right.

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21 hours ago, YBTURBO said:

thats the connectors im looking at anyone know if they will be any good

They look and sound pretty good. To be honest, I have just used standard chock-block type screw terminals for my add-ons in the engine bay, mostly non-critical, but some are a bit more important like the MAP sensor. I have had problems with rust, and replaced a few, but by and large they do the job. However for Injectors I think something better is called for, and if the advertised connectors are anything like as good as they say and look, they should be fine.

Wire: Any reputable manufacturer will do. Alpha wire & BICC are 2 that come to mind. But wire is quite strictly controlled, and as long as it is traceable to a reputable manufacturer and complies with basic standards, then it will be fine. Go for 105C rating at least though, not the 85C PVC type. Terms like UL, CSA & BS are good to look out for, though only if you are buying via a trustworthy seller! 

My electrical crimping tool is an extremely basic pressed steel job, but it produces reliable and good joints if used carefully. A basic tool used carefully, with some testing to ensure correct crimping, can be much better than a fancy, ratchet type automatic crimper that is not good quality, or is not exactly the right tool for the job. It is a bit different with miniature electronic crimping, you do need the right tool there, but for 1.5mm^2 wire you can see what you are doing quite easily.

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well parts not here yet but its update time so guess you all know what that means, yep it went back into limp mode and this time playing with the plug didnt help.

so today is the day it gets butchered and i put a temp connector from cylinder 1 to the loom behind the multi plug.

i did however get a chance to plug in a noid light this time round and no lift at all from it.

so guess if nothing else this will tell me if its the plug/top loom or if its somewhere in the main loom.

will report back later with updates and i'll try remember to take some pics too 😄

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1 hour ago, YBTURBO said:

well parts not here yet but its update time so guess you all know what that means, yep it went back into limp mode and this time playing with the plug didnt help.

so today is the day it gets butchered and i put a temp connector from cylinder 1 to the loom behind the multi plug.

i did however get a chance to plug in a noid light this time round and no lift at all from it.

so guess if nothing else this will tell me if its the plug/top loom or if its somewhere in the main loom.

will report back later with updates and i'll try remember to take some pics too 😄

This is what happened to me, for ages I was able to unplug the multi plug, plug it back in, clear the codes and off I went, then one day it decided that wasn't good enough anymore and my replacement loom search went into overdrive, I was planning on doing exactly what you're doing if I wasn't able to find a replacement loom, the Ford designed loom just seems frustratingly bad. 

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ok so i'll sort some images in a bit cause they are on my phone but the result is, its NOT the plug so has to be main loom broken somewhere or the ECU, cant see it being the ECU given the way it was/has behaved. either way i plan running cylinder 1 wires down to near the plug on the ECU when my cables and things turn up. if nothing else to confirm the loom issue. this will not beat me and is now deffo getting a custom loom. and on that note anyone know where i can get the connectors for the ECU or what they are called.

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quick update time, ran the cable down to 8 or 10 inches from the PCM plug (cylinder 1 injector only for now still waiting for the plugs to do it tidy)

noid light working injector still needed changing. so im thinking that the main harness is the issue and when its intermittent thats just the start of the wires taking out the injection solenoids with them.

either way i should have the connectors here soon enough and all the injection cables will be run direct to about 8 or 10 inch from the PCM plug. and i promise there will be images i have some of the "temp" work that i still need to put up with the good and bad points of what i done lol.

currently car is running without problems but.... i am not driving it about until after i have changed the rest of the cables and redone the temp cable so i know that cant cause another issue with one of the other 2 injectors.

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ok its that time of week when an update is due. so first of all sorry about the lack of pics i promise i will get round to sorting them but the weather is not the best so didnt get any while i was doing the loom. i have created a diagram with how i have done it and will be requesting some advice on it as i move forward. so the diagram will be added to this post.

now for the did it work part and what i actually done. so far it seems like its worked a treat but still early days to be sure. so i made a new loom to a 8 pin connector and run to the PCM where i put the other side of the 8 pin connector (diagram will explain it). to fit it i cut the old loom (rubber part) off where all the connector wires run so i could keep the main connector for the sensor and glow plugs. (this is where i will be asking for help/advice before moving on).

i ran from the injectors using the old connectors soldered to new wires and heat shrink over them with loom tape over that and they run where the old rubber loom did run. when they get to the fuel filter where they would join the multi plug i came straight through and over to the battery and down to the pcm. i promise i will get pics at some point.

so the question advice call part. anyone know what the sensor is thats on that loom and if it go's directly to the pcm, and anyone know the actual route the glow plugs take im assuming they will be going to the relay rather than the pcm.

updates will keep coming and i'll be getting new injector connectors to remake the loom i just made using yellow and black cables currently im using red and blue as you'll see on the diagram key as that was all i had to hand and i had to solder the old connectors for the injectors because i dont yet know how to depin them or get new pins. still the next one will have new connectors and no solder.

injector rewire layout.png

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1889983153_rewirelayout.thumb.png.b0fc476c103903469ce664b1375caca1.png

what im trying to work out for the top loom to be fully removed

Havent got the colors yet and still need to clarify if the sensor does go direct then that i will match cables and run with the injection loom when i remake that.

as for the glow plugs as you can see i have it with "cable color to" and then nothing as im unsure where they run yet.

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On 12/12/2021 at 2:09 PM, YBTURBO said:

anyone know what the sensor is thats on that loom and if it go's directly to the pcm,

Is it the camshaft sensor? If so, it will certainly go direct to the PCM. Pic of cylinder head, sensor marked 12K073.

1-4CHDiag.thumb.gif.1b0642ef7b015d532ba7b12d7998b588.gif

Pic from: https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/54/no/13/1549/15351/66617/

Later cars have a glowplug module that can monitor the current in each plug, but models brought out before about 2010 did not usually have this, and the 4 wires should all go to the glowplug fuse & relay in the fusebox. I have found no reference to any glowplug module for the 2001-2008 model Fiesta. Glowplug currents can be 15A per plug, up to 60A total, so heavy cable is needed. 2.5mm^2 for a single plug, 6mm^2 for a combined wire seems to be typical.

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final update on this one for now guys, the new injector wiring seems to have sorted it not had an issue since changing it. will be more on this in time when i get to doing the rest of the wiring and things and i'll keep doing the diagrams as best i can but for now with time restraints i have other issues to get sorted before i continue this one. mainly a stuck egr, not too big a deal i'll get it off clean and sort it when i get chance. but more importantly i have a brakes issue (there is another post on it) and im not winning on sorting it out. so for now im going to let this one die, when i do the next stages i'll try get all the diagrams clear and simple to follow for anyone that needs them like i have with the injection wiring.

 

thanks again for the help guys and hopefully this will help someone out with sorting "dodgy" injector issues.

p.s. if you know about the braking system please find my other post and send me some help haha

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Hi Ybturo,

My son(Jack) has a 2012 fiesta 1.4tdci titanium, 70k ish on the clock.

It recently developed similar symptoms that you have described after receiving an annual service(HiQ), ie,

eml lamp on dashboard/limp mode, solid, not experienced before. Pretty sure with a 1203 code(HiQ diagnostics)

Took the car to a local independent(x Ford guys) who did their stuff and declared the power train control module to be the problem…….with a £1600 charge 

We collected the car….after declining to spend that amount on it at the moment….and, guess what….the car has been running fine since then ?

The ford guys are trusted geesers, and didn’t charge for the approximate 3 hours diagnosis, as we use their service regular 

I haven’t investigated further, as far as a hands on point of view is concerned, but so far I think your posts fit the scenario perfectly 

The reason for my post is to highlight the wiring loom materials, like I said, not had a look yet, but from my experience as a tv/consumer electronics engineer from the 70/80s, 

The coax cable that fed your terrestrial aerial(on your chimney) could have been two different flavours, solid core or braided core, 

The solid core(it carries the tv signal to the tv), was prone to breaking if flexed regular, causing loss of signal intermittently 

The multi stranded cable didn’t suffer from this problem, much more durable 

So if ford have tried to save money, I’m fairly sure the wiring loom is going to be inferior materials 

Like you, if I discover new or definitive answers, I will post……

Well done

 

 

 

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18 hours ago, Jrsb57 said:

Hi Ybturo,

My son(Jack) has a 2012 fiesta 1.4tdci titanium, 70k ish on the clock.

It recently developed similar symptoms that you have described after receiving an annual service(HiQ), ie,

eml lamp on dashboard/limp mode, solid, not experienced before. Pretty sure with a 1203 code(HiQ diagnostics)

Took the car to a local independent(x Ford guys) who did their stuff and declared the power train control module to be the problem…….with a £1600 charge 

We collected the car….after declining to spend that amount on it at the moment….and, guess what….the car has been running fine since then ?

You took it there, they looked at it and did nothing and it's fine now?

My car (08 MK6.5, 1.4 TDCI, coming up on 110k miles) is suffering from what I suspect is the same issue. Flashing cog light on the dash (when the computer actually picks up the issue), limp mode (again, if the computer picks the issue up), error codes for a shorting injector (first detection by the computer) then one for a shorting glow plug (second), which, to me, makes it pretty clear there's a loom issue

That was about 3 months ago. I've had nothing done to the car in relation to the issue. I suspect your son's issue has been 'resolved' in the same way mine has... That is to say it hasn't.

At first I thought it was RPMs, that is to say high RPMs make it more likely... But I was able to get it to happen sub 2000 RPMs in some cases and in the last few months my car has definitely seen 3000 and even 4000 without issue many times. That lead me to my next, current theory which, so far, seems to be holding true... It's all about throttle application.

I thought back to the times it coughed of threw error code, the vast majority of times it was on the A38 being a bit generous with speed limits or times where I was trying to get the car to move quickly. What would those all have in common? Significant throttle inputs. Ever since I've clicked onto that and consciously avoided more significant levels of throttle input, it hasn't done it once.

I'd wager that if you gave your son's car some WOT throttle action, you'd get the car to cough again.

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Thank you for taking the time to reply to my post Adrian, 

As a company car driver for the last several decades, I haven’t tinkered with car mechanics since sorting a battery draining issue(caused by the passenger vanity mirror) on my Vauxhall Carlton Estate(used for transporting my market stall), I traced the fault myself…..very happy 

Smoke and mirrors, sometimes the resolution isn’t as complicated as it seems 

I am now semi retired, so after the festivities, I am probably going to get more involved in this type of stuff 

My son has saved hard for a deposit on a house, and doesn’t want to replace the Fiesta unless he has to 

We will digest the information from you and implement/ experiment 

Happy Christmas 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Hi all. Got a notification regarding my old 2006 thread on this. Just for info if it helps I spoke to the lad who bought my car, with full disclosure of the injector issue. Him and his dad basically took the injectors out and cleaned/flushed them and the car was fine after that. Not sure if you can/or they did rebuild the injector but they didn’t need to replace anything as far as I know. 

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