Mk4 Mondeo 2.2 Titanium X Sport Gremlins

[Dallypro]

Hi All

To be as concise as possible with the explanation, I am going to bullet point everything - any input appreciated! 

1. Car started suffering from low battery after going flat during Covid Lockdown. Assumed battery was dead and replaced

2. IPC started failing intermittently, but would start working again as soon as the wheels turned on the car. Was like this for a number of months.

3. Car started suffering from a dead battery every 3 days. Spoke to my mechanic. He said it was a rubbish battery (it was a cheap Lion battery - all I could get during the lockdown). He said the IPC fault was probably nothing to do with the battery - send the IPC off to be repaired and go from there.

4. Replaced battery at his suggestion with a brand new Bosch S5. No low battery problems since, car has started every time no problem, but the IPC has got progressively worse. It will turn on after about 30 minutes of driving, and may then work for a week before dieing again. I have had the IPC out and checked for any obvious dry joints etc - nothing doing.

5. When the IPC is dead, the climate control works intermittently. I can get the fans to turn on for about 10 seconds, then they die again. This happens when using either the touch screen (Travelpilot NX) or using the controls. Radio/Sat Nav etc etc all work fine - but doesn't turn on when the IPC fails to start as it thinks the car isn't switched on. If you press the on button it gives the "will shutdown in 1 hour" message.

6. Fault codes (via forscan) - Other than when the IPC fails (in which case i get 3 or 4 codes associated with unable to communicate with IPC), the only faults that show up occasionally are that the ABS has not been able to shut down correctly, and that the left head light occasionally fails to level. I don't believe these are significant to the gremlins above.

 

My questions are:

- Is the core issue likely to be the IPC is failing, which is causing the climate problem

or

- Is there likely to be a problem with the wiring that causes the climate and IPC to fail as they either both work, or are both failing.

or

- Is it likely to be something else?

 

I need to get it fixed as the car is far too good to get shot, but electric gremlins are a nightmare. Would like a little input before sending the IPC off (my proposed first step towards finding the fault). I have absolutely no idea how all the modules are connected and which ones talk to which. My knowledge is a little limited but I am trying to learn!

As said, I appreciate all input, and will do my best to give any additional information requested.

Cheers

Dallypro

 

 

 

[unofix]

Hello Alex, I would be 90% confident in saying the fault is the solder joints on the instrument cluster. When you car was made they used environmentally friendly lead free solder which over time fails, it's a very common problem.

The visual inspection of the joints unless done under a magnifier are very difficult to spot, as mostly the problem is the joint has become high resistance rather than a complete failure.

The best solution is to send the IC to a professional company who will re-flow all the solder joints with good quality solder, it's not really something to try at home with a basic soldering iron.

Look on eBay, there are companies offering a repair service from about £70.

[Dallypro]

6 minutes ago, unofix said:

Hello Alex, I would be 90% confident in saying the fault is the solder joints on the instrument cluster. When you car was made they used environmentally friendly lead free solder which over time fails, it's a very common problem.

The visual inspection of the joints unless done under a magnifier are very difficult to spot, as mostly the problem is the joint has become high resistance rather than a complete failure.

The best solution is to send the IC to a professional company who will re-flow all the solder joints with good quality solder, it's not really something to try at home with a basic soldering iron.

Look on eBay, there are companies offering a repair service fro about £70.

Thanks for the reply. 90% confident is a good start. I would say I was about 60%, and its only a lack of understanding on how the whole system works together that has stopped me sending it off already.

I'm keen to find the companies who will repair for £70! The cheapest repair for a Convers+ that I have found is £189!!!

 

[unofix]

Hi Alex,

I have NO IDEA what this company is like but they claim to fix most instrument clusters, (this is not a recommendation).

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254757149337?fits=Model%3AMondeo&hash=item3b50b59a99:g:TJoAAOSwcaZctyFV

OR ....

https://cartronix.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKCAiA5t-OBhByEiwAhR-hm8G7dA3RNgxrz1UPgYHiTTKKhQxz8kma_KjanEtBfEEQfAo1M8OcKxoCmFsQAvD_BwE

[Dallypro]

8 minutes ago, unofix said:

Hi Alex,

I have NO IDEA what this company is like but they claim to fix most instrument clusters, (this is not a recommendation).

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254757149337?fits=Model%3AMondeo&hash=item3b50b59a99:g:TJoAAOSwcaZctyFV

Cheers. I've found a few options that are less than £150. I will give them a ring round on Monday and see what's what!

[Dallypro]

Hi

Just a quick update in case anyone has anything further to add

IPC went of to a company (BBA Reman) to be tested and repaired. They confirmed there was a fault but were unable to fix it. The connector and PCB was re-soldered but the IPC failed to start up. They therefore classed it as irreparable and offered to return the faulty unit and refund.

Therefore I am back to square 1. 

I have been looking into getting a second hand unit to continue my investigations of the other problems. I understand that the mileage will not be correct if I install a diferent IPC, but is there any other problem that I should be aware of?

Many thanks

 

[unofix]

Hello Dallypro, you were unlucky with the IC repair.

If you get a secondhand replacement you need to make sure that the mileage on it is 'Less' than your mileage. This is because the mileage can only be adjusted up to match your original, it is not possible to adjust it down.

You will also need the keys reprogrammed in to the replacement IC as it forms part of the PATS immobiliser. This might have to be done by a Ford main dealer. Without the keys and the IC reprogrammed the car will of course not start.

[Dallypro]

Hi Again

Thanks for the reply

Ah, immobiliser. That could be a problem.

The car doesn't currently have an IPC fitted (the old non working one is being returned tomorrow), and is starting and locking/unlocking ok. I assume therefore that the issue with the immobiliser would only occur when a different IPC is connected and communicating with the car?

 

 

[unofix]

If your car is starting and engine running now without the IC then maybe your car does not have the PATS immobiliser.

[Dallypro]

That would be a bonus (I think?!?). Do you know of a way to find out?

Its a 59 Plate Pre Facelift Titanium X Sport 2.2 Diesel.........It's got all the extras including keyless start if that makes a difference?

[unofix]

Ah! the fact that the car has keyless start means the keys will be coded in to the BCM (I think ??) so you may not have a problem.

[Dallypro]

Ok, that sounds like it may be a step in the right direction!

On to the next round of trial and error 👍

[Dallypro]

Afternoon all

Thought it would be appropriate to give another update on my electrical gremlins as it may be worthwhile to someone else.

I managed to get hold of a replacement instrument cluster for £70, and installed it into the car. The car started operating perfectly - climate control and convers+ all good. Code wise, I am still getting an ABS communication failure (U0126, U0100, U3001) but it is working, and all other modules are code free.

The new cluster was installed without an issue. It was plug and play, with only the mileage needing adjusting (not done this yet, but a free trial of forscan should give capability to sort it). Worth nothing that the IC has a manufacturing date 1 month later than the one I had, and had lower mileage.

battery drain wise, there is still some slight evidence of an issue, but having deliberately left the car locked and idle for a week, it started no problem. I say slight issue as after unlocking, opening the bonnet, and leaving for 20mins, the battery voltage was 12.04v (using a multimeter). Bit low for a brand new battery, and potentially some evidence that the battery is still being drained, just not to the same level as it was before.

Its been suggested to me that the ABS codes that still exist could be causing the problems, and I was emailed the attached PDF document that outlines some of the areas where the Canbus wiring can fail, causing communication issue. Does anyone have any experience of this?

On the positive side -  the car is now working, we have regained some confidence in it, and the wife (who's car it is) is on my case a bit less!

Cheers

Dallypro

pcm tsb.pdf