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DEAD BATTERY DEAD CAR NO START

Featured Replies

  • Author
2 hours ago, Focus_ said:

My method of testing is to unscrew the cluster, remove it from the dash and then flex the wiring harness physically. (At this stage, DO NOT unplug it) 

While flexing the harness, see if the security light goes out and if it starts. 

Next test is to disconnect the battery, then disconnect the wiring harness going into the cluster, disconnect and reconnect a few times to rule out a dirty connection, reconnect the battery, then flex the harness again to see if there's any change.

Will try that tomorrow

 

thank you for all your help 



  • Author
9 minutes ago, Focus_ said:

No worries at all

Uh no, that's not good at all re: jumpstarting. That's why I asked incase someone has fried the ECU. 

If you are technically minded I would first suggest removing and dismantling the cluster, then posting up some close up photos of the solder joints on the 32 pin connector if you aren't sure yourself if there's a problem with them. 

Though I'd only recommend doing that if you know what you're doing as it's very fiddly and you MUST line up the needles and mark them before removal as you won't get them back on right afterwards otherwise. It's also very easy to damage the ribbon cable to the LCD or the LCD itself

If the the cluster is fine and the ECU has been fried, I'd suggest talking to an ECU specialist or auto electrician to consider the next steps. 

However back to the fault codes, as far as I know the ECU being fried would not throw up a key communication code as the PATS system runs through the cluster. Though I'm sure someone will be along to correct me if I'm wrong as I'm not 100% sure on the exact programming of the security system 

Hope that helps in some way, cheers

Ofcourse will definitely try that tomorrow 

59 minutes ago, Sar0123 said:

Ofcourse will definitely try that tomorrow

Do you have any experience or knowledge around repairing electronics? If not I'd only suggest taking it apart yourself as a last resort. You can try flexing the wiring harness though yourself as that's straightforward enough 👍

It only costs about £80-100 to send it off to a specialist to be tested and refurbed if flexing the harness does make a difference 👍

14 minutes ago, Focus_ said:

Do you have any experience or knowledge around repairing electronics? If not I'd only suggest taking it apart yourself as a last resort. You can try flexing the wiring harness though yourself as that's straightforward enough 👍

It only costs about £80-100 to send it off to a specialist to be tested and refurbed if flexing the harness does make a difference 👍

I cheated once due to the car was going to auction. A light spray of wd40 on the circuit board did the trick enough to get it gone.😂😂

1 hour ago, iantt said:

I cheated once due to the car was going to auction. A light spray of wd40 on the circuit board did the trick enough to get it gone.😂😂

Lol that sounds good, I like it 😂

  • Author
11 hours ago, Focus_ said:

Do you have any experience or knowledge around repairing electronics? If not I'd only suggest taking it apart yourself as a last resort. You can try flexing the wiring harness though yourself as that's straightforward enough 👍

It only costs about £80-100 to send it off to a specialist to be tested and refurbed if flexing the harness does make a difference 👍

Not repairing but I can unscrew and flex the wiring harness to see if that makes a difference.

i have found someone online who will repair this for £74 and have emailed hIm sounds like he know what he’s doing.

14 hours ago, Sar0123 said:

Not repairing but I can unscrew and flex the wiring harness to see if that makes a difference.

i have found someone online who will repair this for £74 and have emailed hIm sounds like he know what he’s doing.

£74 sounds reasonable, did you try flexing the harness? If the repairer doesn't offer a no fix no fee service then I'd be wary of sending it off without certainty 👍

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