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Need some help please.
I have a Ford Focus 2008 1.6 petrol.
Battery went dead so I fitted a new 1. But now it doesn’t start.
Checked all the fuses and relays ✅ 
All wiring and earth etc ✅ 
Got a key man to check if it’s key issue or immobiliser ✅ 
Disconnected the battery and connected ✅ 
Fitted another new battery ✅ 
Had 2guys come out and both said diagnostic is not communicating with the ECU and Dash.

Have any of you guys on here had a similar issue?
Alternatively if you can recommend somewhere I can send the ECU off for testing?

Any help will be much appreciated.

Honestly check the Fuses!! Fuse 27 20amp ignition switch fuse, under glove box.  Check all electronic ignition and ecu related fuses  ie. Under bonnet F26 28 29 etc. Check em all.

Just now, Rayfocus said:

Honestly check the Fuses!! Fuse 27 20amp ignition switch fuse, under glove box.  Check all electronic ignition and ecu related fuses  ie. Under bonnet F26 28 29 etc. Check em all.

Thank you.

all fuses checked. Wasn’t aware of the ignition fuse under glovebox.

by the way the dash comes on as normal just doesn’t start and flags up a transmission fault message 

Try ignition key to pos 2, press accelerator for 5 seconds release and try starting car. If that doesn't work then could be a faulty neutral safety switch due to gearbox fault. Run Obd diag check  . Has the gearbox had issues?

4 minutes ago, Rayfocus said:

Try ignition key to pos 2, press accelerator for 5 seconds release and try starting car. If that doesn't work then could be a faulty neutral safety switch due to gearbox fault. Run Obd diag check  . Has the gearbox had issues?

No issues

its a manual 

Assume makes an ***** out of U and ME  lol. Are you sure ?🤣

Put key to pos 2, Is your red immob light display behind your steering wheel  blinking or lit ?antitheft light, .If the anti-theft light has turned off, leave the key in this position for 2-3 minutes. Then try to start the engine.If this doesn’t work the first time  try again. 

 

41 minutes ago, Rayfocus said:

Assume makes an ***** out of U and ME  lol. Are you sure ?🤣

Yes I’m sure it’s a manual why?

LOL ,I assumed it was autobox as you said it had transmission fault.😅

Have you tried a slap on the dash above the centre of the instrument cluster?

This can sometimes shock the instrument cluster back to life if it is suffering the dry joint issue. Because both can busses route through the IC, all kinds of messages can be triggered by this due to can bus connectivity failure.

worth a check 

17 minutes ago, RL123 said:

Have you tried a slap on the dash above the centre of the instrument cluster?

This can sometimes shock the instrument cluster back to life if it is suffering the dry joint issue. Because both can busses route through the IC, all kinds of messages can be triggered by this due to can bus connectivity failure.

worth a check 

I've done that a few times in the past just to get them going temporary. Saves pushing them into workshop. 😂😂

53 minutes ago, RL123 said:

Have you tried a slap on the dash above the centre of the instrument cluster?

This can sometimes shock the instrument cluster back to life if it is suffering the dry joint issue. Because both can busses route through the IC, all kinds of messages can be triggered by this due to can bus connectivity failure.

worth a check 

Not yet will try that thank you 

This definitely sounds like an instrument cluster fault, though transmission malfunction on a manual does throw a slight curveball, normally you get engine systems fault 🤔

Anyhow try that and let us know how you get on

18 hours ago, Rayfocus said:

Put key to pos 2, Is your red immob light display behind your steering wheel  blinking or lit ?antitheft light, .If the anti-theft light has turned off, leave the key in this position for 2-3 minutes. Then try to start the engine.If this doesn’t work the first time  try again. 

 

Tried this it’s blinking fast then goes slow intermittent blinking 

1 hour ago, Focus_ said:

This definitely sounds like an instrument cluster fault, though transmission malfunction on a manual does throw a slight curveball, normally you get engine systems fault 🤔

Anyhow try that and let us know how you get on

Yes transmission malfunction and engine fault message too

2 hours ago, Sar0123 said:

Yes transmission malfunction and engine fault message too

Ok have you tried hitting the top of the dash as suggested above?

If you go into the hidden menu (press and hold set/reset button then turn key to position too) what fault codes/DTCs do you get? 

2 hours ago, Focus_ said:

Ok have you tried hitting the top of the dash as suggested above?

If you go into the hidden menu (press and hold set/reset button then turn key to position too) what fault codes/DTCs do you get? 

Yes tried hitting the top of the dashboard.

I’ve got the fault codes from the key man. Let me see if I can paste them here.

I wasn’t aware of the hidden menu so will check that out for faults 

3 hours ago, Sar0123 said:

Yes tried hitting the top of the dashboard.

I’ve got the fault codes from the key man. Let me see if I can paste them here.

I wasn’t aware of the hidden menu so will check that out for faults 

I see. Did you or anybody else attempt to jumpstart the car when the original battery died?

18 hours ago, Focus_ said:

I see. Did you or anybody else attempt to jumpstart the car when the original battery died?

Yes I tried but it didn’t start hence why I changed battery.

Also try bump start start but didn’t work.

the codes I’m getting are 

U1900:60 CAN comm bus fault - receive error

U2510:60 Invalid or missing security data for vehicle security 

 

Still looks like break in can bus continuity.

On my son’s 2008 focus it may was in the cluster. Suppose it could be elsewhere.

3 minutes ago, RL123 said:

Still looks like break in can bus continuity.

On my son’s 2008 focus it may was in the cluster. Suppose it could be elsewhere.

Everything and everyone is pointing towards the instrument cluster…

6 minutes ago, Sar0123 said:

Everything and everyone is pointing towards the instrument cluster…

My method of testing is to unscrew the cluster, remove it from the dash and then flex the wiring harness physically. (At this stage, DO NOT unplug it) 

While flexing the harness, see if the security light goes out and if it starts. 

Next test is to disconnect the battery, then disconnect the wiring harness going into the cluster, disconnect and reconnect a few times to rule out a dirty connection, reconnect the battery, then flex the harness again to see if there's any change.

39 minutes ago, Sar0123 said:

Yes I tried but it didn’t start hence why I changed battery.

Also try bump start start but didn’t work.

the codes I’m getting are 

U1900:60 CAN comm bus fault - receive error

U2510:60 Invalid or missing security data for vehicle security 

 

Ah right I see, that now makes a lot of sense. First you said it wouldn't start after replacing the battery, but that's not the case as you now say you replaced the battery because it wouldn't start. 

The cluster is now my primary suspect. 

(The reason I asked about jump starting was incase someone had tried to jump it backwards and shorted something out, but that doesn't seem to be the case here now)

1 hour ago, Focus_ said:

Ah right I see, that now makes a lot of sense. First you said it wouldn't start after replacing the battery, but that's not the case as you now say you replaced the battery because it wouldn't start. 

The cluster is now my primary suspect. 

(The reason I asked about jump starting was incase someone had tried to jump it backwards and shorted something out, but that doesn't seem to be the case here now)

Sorry for the confusion.

basically I’m torn between the ECU and the Cluster myself.

reason why I was leaning towards the ECU is that the kid who works for me jump started whilst I was away as he needed to move the car.

when he told me he couldn’t start it and I asked him if he connected the lead the right way round, he started to scratch his head.

 

50 minutes ago, Sar0123 said:

Sorry for the confusion.

basically I’m torn between the ECU and the Cluster myself.

reason why I was leaning towards the ECU is that the kid who works for me jump started whilst I was away as he needed to move the car.

when he told me he couldn’t start it and I asked him if he connected the lead the right way round, he started to scratch his head.

 

No worries at all

Uh no, that's not good at all re: jumpstarting. That's why I asked incase someone has fried the ECU. 

If you are technically minded I would first suggest removing and dismantling the cluster, then posting up some close up photos of the solder joints on the 32 pin connector if you aren't sure yourself if there's a problem with them. 

Though I'd only recommend doing that if you know what you're doing as it's very fiddly and you MUST line up the needles and mark them before removal as you won't get them back on right afterwards otherwise. It's also very easy to damage the ribbon cable to the LCD or the LCD itself

If the the cluster is fine and the ECU has been fried, I'd suggest talking to an ECU specialist or auto electrician to consider the next steps. 

However back to the fault codes, as far as I know the ECU being fried would not throw up a key communication code as the PATS system runs through the cluster. Though I'm sure someone will be along to correct me if I'm wrong as I'm not 100% sure on the exact programming of the security system 

Hope that helps in some way, cheers