Hi all,

Im after a bit of advice before I remove the cylinder head on my 2006 1.4 Focus.

Whilst replacing the water pump, I think the timing slipped slightly.

Stupidly I didn't check this prior to starting.

It didn't start, just seized.

Now engine won't turn past TDC.

Removing cams to make sure all valves are closed has no effect.

I did notice that the exhaust valves on cylinder 4 are higher than the others.

 

Could this be the problem?

Oh dear !!

I hate to think what the piston is going to look like.

It might be quicker and cheaper to just get a replacement engine from a scrapyard

 remove the cylinder head  and see what you have done you may get lucky and be able to repair it

Pistons are probably fine if it just stopped once while cranking and you didn't keep trying it.  At least 2 of the valves will be bent.

If you can pull the head & replace the valves yourself that's probably cheapest.  (Don't forget you'll need a new headgasket etc).  If not, good used engine is probably a better option. 

10 hours ago, unofix said:

Oh dear !!

I hate to think what the piston is going to look like.

It might be quicker and cheaper to just get a replacement engine from a scrapyard

Thanks for the replies chaps.

Yes, I suspect it's not pretty.

Think I'm going to find out just for the fun of it it was only a cheap run about / commuter.

Parts will probably cost more than I paid for it😄

 

I recall years and years ago my brother bought a mk3 escort (with cvh engine) with broken timing belt for a very low cost.  It had some bent valves.  He took the valves out, hammered them straight  and reassembled. A couple of the rocker arms were bent and split.  He hammered them straight and welded the splits. And it worked fine.  Just the cost of gaskets and belt. So u you might be lucky.  Of course 16 valves is not as good as 8 valves when this happens.

I suppose he may have been luckier as the rocker arms acted as a bit of a buffer. No rocker arms on yours .

Why did they change from the earlier type water pump that could be removed without having to touch the timing belt?

10 hours ago, isetta said:

I suppose he may have been luckier as the rocker arms acted as a bit of a buffer. No rocker arms on yours 

Rocker arms are designed to be sacrificial, at least on slightly more modern engines.  Interesting that the 8v CVH had angled valves from a quick Google though.  A vertical valve has a lot of strength through it's shank and will just snap a rocker arm as it's pushed upwards (happened on several of the belt-snapper 2.0 HDi's I bought).  Angled valves have very little upward strength so tend to bend, though of course 8v valves are physically larger than 16v valves so presumably have more shank strength.

 

10 hours ago, AntonovAN12 said:

Why did they change from the earlier type water pump that could be removed without having to touch the timing belt?

They didn't.  But you do need a special tool to keep tension on the timing belt to do it that way.  Without the tool, you'd still have to remove the cambelt for the waterpump.

10 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

They didn't.  But you do need a special tool to keep tension on the timing belt to do it that way.  Without the tool, you'd still have to remove the cambelt for the waterpump.

According to the Haynes manual, water pumps on Mk2s built before April 2005 can be changed without having to remove the timing belt at all. I know that Haynes manuals can have errors.

Did the early Mk2s use the Mk1 type pump with a regular O-Ring? I have seen a few Mk2s on 54 plates. It would make sense if they were using up the last of the earlier engines.

There is also no mention of a tool to keep the belt tension. Could you post a link for future reference?

 

 

1 minute ago, AntonovAN12 said:

According to the Haynes manual, water pumps on cars built before April 2005 can be changed without having to remove the timing belt at all. I know that Haynes manuals can have errors.

Did the early Mk2s use the Mk1 type pump with a regular O-Ring? I have seen a few Mk2s on 54 plates. It would make sense if they were using up the last of the earlier engines.

There is also no mention of a tool to keep the belt tension. Could you post a link for future reference?

Yes, I stand corrected.  Earlier models didn't have the cambelt tensioner attached to the waterpump.  Both types can be seen here.

https://workshop-manuals.com/ford/fiesta_2002.25_11.2001/mechanical_repairs/3_powertrain/303_engine/303-03a_engine_cooling_1.25l_duratec-16v_(sigma)-1.3l_duratec-8v_(rocam)-1.4l_duratec-16v_(sigma)-1.6l_duratec-16v_(sigma)/description_and_operation/diagnosis_and_testing/general_procedures/removal_and_installation/water_pump_1.25l_duratec-16v_(sigma)-1.4l_duratec-16v_(sigma)-1.6l_duratec-16v_(sigma)/

Can't find a pic of the tensioner tool at the moment but @iantt might have one.

I remember there being a couple of wedges that went down the side of the belt. Will look for image. 

Edit. Can't get image at the moment. 

303-1556 - Locking Tool (service-solutions.com)

Ford Rotunda OTC 303-1556 Water Pump Timing Belt Holding Tool Set | eBay

26 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

303-1556 - Locking Tool (service-solutions.com)

Ford Rotunda OTC 303-1556 Water Pump Timing Belt Holding Tool Set | eBay

That's the ones. Never used them. 

 

 

Thanks for the links.

There are some photos of them in place at this link:

https://www.ctatools.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1754

Could you lock the crankshaft and remove the bottom pulley with these wedges fitted?

I just reread my above post and realised it wasn't very clear, but can't edit now.

What I mean is, could you lock the crankshaft with the proper locking pin, insert these wedges and remove the crankshaft bolt and aux belt pulley with these wedges fitted.

Is there any reason you couldn't then remove the aux belt pulley and bottom belt cover while leaving the timing belt sprocket and belt locked in place?

The question about the modified split bottom cover in the other thread gave me this thought.