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2015 Fiesta 1.0 Ecoboost Broken down twice on the same day 1 year later


macadmy
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Hello 

MY daughters car has broke down exactly 1 year ago to the day. The AA were called and this is what was pulled from the ECU

Patrol found the following fault code/s:System : Engine control 1 - ZA4 / Motronic MED 17.0.1P080702 - Clutch pedal position sensor. Error Message : Signal error.P086B1E - Neutral position sensor. Error Message : Outside specified range.P08AE00 - Neutral position sensor B. Error Message : Outside specified range.P086D00 - Neutral position sensor. Error Message : Signal too high.P08B000 - Neutral position sensor B. Error Message : Signal too high.P086B - Neutral position sensor. Error Message : Malfunction.P08AE - Neutral position sensor B. Error Message : Malfunction.P06A701 - Sensor reference voltage B. Error Message : Outside specified range.P025200 - Fuel high-pressure control. Error Message : Outside specified range.P086A00 - Neutral position sensor. Error Message : Open circuit.P083200 - Clutch pedal switch A. Error Message : Signal too high.P083500 - Clutch pedal switch B. Error Message : Signal too high.P213564 - Throttle-valve/ pedal position sensor D/E. Error Message : Plausibility.P213562 - Throttle-valve/ pedal position sensor D/E. Error Message : Signal compare faulty.P157300 - Throttle valve position. Error Message : Target value not attained.P032429 - Knock control. Error Message : Signal invalid.P019317 - Fuel rail pressure sensor. Error Message : Interruption/signal too high.P061C47 - Engine control unit (rpm signal). Error Message : Monitoring not OK.P060A47 - Control unit, microprocessor. Error Message : Monitoring not OK.P060C49 - Control unit, microprocessor. Error Message : Malfunction.P010716 - Intake manifold pressure sensor. Error Message : Signal too low.P010664 - Intake manifold pressure sensor. Error Message : Plausibility.We have arranged for a recovery of your vehicle.

The car was taken to local dealer that said it needed a new loom £1500.00. we collected the car thinking we could get it done cheaper else wear, But it has been fine since.

That was exactly a year ago to the day

 

But yesterday broke down again. AA came out and got it started and we got these codes.

 

Patrol found the following fault code/s:System : Engine control 1 - ZA4 / Motronic MED 17.0.1P080702 - Clutch pedal position sensor. Error Message : Signal error.P086B1E - Neutral position sensor. Error Message : Outside specified range.P08AE00 - Neutral position sensor B. Error Message : Outside specified range.P086D00 - Neutral position sensor. Error Message : Signal too high.P08B000 - Neutral position sensor B. Error Message : Signal too high.P086B - Neutral position sensor. Error Message : Malfunction.P08AE - Neutral position sensor B. Error Message : Malfunction.P06A701 - Sensor reference voltage B. Error Message : Outside specified range.P06A013 - Variable air conditioner compressor. Error Message : Open circuit.P086A00 - Neutral position sensor. Error Message : Open circuit.P083200 - Clutch pedal switch 1. Error Message : Signal too high.P083500 - Clutch pedal switch 2. Error Message : Signal too high.P06A100 - Variable air conditioner compressor. Error Message : Short to ground.P019317 - Fuel rail pressure sensor. Error Message : Interruption/signal too high.Tap fuel rail pressure sensor, clear codes and follow.

She was able to drive it home with the AA following.

Today it will not start at all.

I am getting P1573 and P2135 as pending faults.

anyone have any clues as to what I should do?

Many thanks in advance 

Matt

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Use the software FORScan on a laptop.

Make a note of the DTCs it is showing and then clear all codes. Try restarting the car and recheck DTC's and it will give a clearer picture of what the active codes are.

Given the extremely large amounts of codes it is likely to be either damage to the Canbus wiring or a problem with the Body Control Module (BCM). Check first using FORScan, and then remove and re-seat the multi-pin connectors on the BCM, (disconnect the negative battery lead before working on the BCM).

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Hi

Got my cable today from amazon hooked it up and here is the result.

(WARN) [09:40:11.140] New version is available: 2.3.48. Current version: 2.3.47
(WARN) [09:40:14.345] Checking COM3...
(OK) [09:40:14.694] Connection to adapter has been established: COM3
(OK) [09:40:14.694] Adapter:  ELM327 v1.5
(WARN) [09:40:14.863] The adapter is NOT recommended for this car - some FORScan functions may not be available or not work properly
(OK) [09:40:22.776] Connection to vehicle has been established
(OK) [09:40:23.096] Vehicle: Ford Fiesta MY2013 Ecoboost Gasoline Turbocharged Direct Injection Stage VI 1.0L 2015 ( 2013.25MY ), VIN: WF0*********47896
(OK) [09:40:43.728] Found module:  PCM - Powertrain Control Module
(WARN) [09:40:58.909] DTCs in PCM: P0807:02-2C, P086B:1E-2C, P08AE:00-2C, P086D:00-2C, P08B0:00-2C, P086B:38-2C, P08AE:38-2C, P06A7:01-2C, P06A0:13-2C, P086A:00-2C, P0832:00-2C, P0835:00-2C, P06A1:00-2C, P2135:64-64, P2135:62-64, P1573:00-64, P0324:29-6C, P0193:17-24, P0107:16-24, P053F:21-6C
(OK) [09:40:59.066] Found module:  OBDII - On Board Diagnostic II
(WARN) [09:40:59.323] DTCs in OBDII: P1573-P, P2135-P
(OK) [09:40:59.862] Found module:  APIM - Accessory Protocol Interface Module
(OK) [09:41:01.202] Found module:  FCDIM - Front Control/Display Interface Module
(OK) [09:41:03.275] Found module:  ABS - Antilock braking system
(OK) [09:41:05.444] Found module:  RCM - Restraint Control Module
(OK) [09:41:06.863] Found module:  PSCM - Power Steering Control Module
(OK) [09:41:07.798] Found module:  ACM - Audio Control Module
(OK) [09:41:10.041] Found module:  IPC - Instrument Panel Control Module
(WARN) [09:41:11.377] DTCs in IPC: B10EA:00-48
(OK) [09:41:24.851] Found module:  PDM - Passengers Door Control Unit
(OK) [09:41:26.078] Found module:  DDM - Drivers Door Module
(OK) [09:41:29.511] Found module:  BCMii - Body Control Module
(OK) [09:41:32.265] Found module:  GPSM - Global Positioning System Module

Forscan said it couldn't clear DTCs, so I disconnected and reconnected the battery, Rescanned and all clear on Forscan.

Then the car started fine.

All pointing towards the PCM? Or a wiring gremlin?

Daughter not surprisingly wont drive it now, I'm thinking my next move is a new main engine loom? How hard is that to change?

Any help much appreciated.

Matt


 

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1 hour ago, macadmy said:

next move is a new main engine loom? How hard is that to change?

Nearly impossible to change, find the damaged section and repair would be easier.

P0807:02 would prevent the car from starting.

I would start by removing the connectors from the PCM including removing the back Shell so that a full inspection of all wires in the plug can be checked. Look for damaged wires, any signs of water ingress and any signs of greenish corrosion on any of the pins. Check the PCM socket for the same.

Rescan with FORScan on a regular bases to see if any DTC's appear overtime.

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Hi And thanks for the response.

Silly question, but is the PCM the black box at the bottom of the glove box with about 5 or 6 multi connectors?

I have measured the resistance between pins 6 and 14 on the ODB tried wiggling wires all around engine bay ETC it remain solid at about 62ohms, Would you suggest this is of any use?

Thanks Matt

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In a perfect world the resistance is 60ohms but 62 is fine. It shows that the canbus wires are intact and not open or short circuit. The end of line termination resistors are 120ohms (one at each end) so any issues with the wiring would affect the resistance reading.

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Hello

I have found a very damaged wire, I gave it a little pull and it broke.

Its a white and brown small gauge wire close to the connector, under/in front of the battery

number 28 on the connector.

Any clue as to what this wire does?

Can this one wire cause a total breakdown?

Thanks in advance.

Matt

IMG_20220705_205334.jpg

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Yup !!

That would do it 👍  I think that is the shift interlock wire

Looks like there is damage to at least one other wire

wire.JPG

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I don’t know what that wire does but it could have a temporary repair done in a couple of mins to see if it solves the problem.  Of course soldering in an extra inch or two of wire and using heat shrink sleeping would be good but stripping a bit of insulation off and twisting together would tell you if that fixes the problem. 

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I think I'm going to double check all the other local wires, put it back together and see if it starts as it is (with the broken wire) and go from there.

Thanks for your help

 

Matt

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I can’t seem to follow wiring diagrams these days.  In the old days it all fitted on one sheet of paper. 

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Hello

Feeling a bit deflated now, it looks like the wire controls the A/C compressor.

Surely that is never going to cause the car to breakdown, is it?

If it arced could it upset the ECU?

 

Thanks  Matt

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On 7/5/2022 at 9:21 PM, unofix said:

Yup !!

That would do it 👍  I think that is the shift interlock wire

Looks like there is damage to at least one other wire

wire.JPG

Hi Unofix

I think you hit the nail on the head with that red circle. I think the blue and white wire is to do with HS Can bus, and the brown and white has arced across it and caused all the faults and the car to stop. Would you agree, I with your help have fixed it?

Many thanks

 

Matt

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