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Focus MK3 EGR Wiring


miller75
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I have been having some issues with the EGR valve on my Focus 2013 TDCI 1.6L Duratorq CR TC (115PS). For a while I have been getting an error that the valve is stuck shut, I have replace the valve and solenoid with a known good one and I am still getting the error.

MOT is now getting closer so I need to sort it, the next step will be to check the wiring so I could do with a wiring diagram if anyone had one?

Thanks

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Just had a quick check as its getting dark and the WH-VT is putting out battery voltage (14.4v) does that sound right?

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So you need to find out whether the STUCK SHUT code as you described is because the valve isnt moving or whether there is an unexpected low flow that should be coming from the egr.

Very often on diesels it can be the fact the the egr cooler is blocked which is why its best practice to always replace the cooler with the egr.

The easiest thing for you to do is to remove the egr, plug it back in and get someone to cycle the ignition, generally most vehicles will do a full sweep of the shut off flap and the egr. This isnt a golden rule so if the valve doesnt move then carry out an active test. Obviously if it moves then i would suggest you have a flow fault.

If it doesnt move then you need to start checking the wiring diagram .

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2 hours ago, Ecosport2019 said:

So you need to find out whether the STUCK SHUT code as you described is because the valve isnt moving or whether there is an unexpected low flow that should be coming from the egr.

Very often on diesels it can be the fact the the egr cooler is blocked which is why its best practice to always replace the cooler with the egr.

The easiest thing for you to do is to remove the egr, plug it back in and get someone to cycle the ignition, generally most vehicles will do a full sweep of the shut off flap and the egr. This isnt a golden rule so if the valve doesnt move then carry out an active test. Obviously if it moves then i would suggest you have a flow fault.

If it doesnt move then you need to start checking the wiring diagram .

Thanks for the reply, Its P042F (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit A is stuck closed) it doesn't move at all. I believe it does the sweep when the ignition is switched off. Also the egr_err % goes to -100

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Sorry but you say it doesnt move at all, but then say it does a sweep?

Also have you reset/adapted the new egr values?

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Also does the code return straight away when turning on ignition?

depending on whether the egr does move on a active test using the scanner, remember when looking at this code dont just take it on face value, alot of the readings come from elsewhere, for example a maf or map sensor will be monitoring the flow when the egr is asked to be at a certain position. If the pcm decides the flow should be more it will automatically bring up a stuck egr valve.

Now obviously the gases go through other pipes and a cooler so any blockage here will still cause tge same problem. 

Obviously this is all a process of elimination, its hard to diagnose someones vehicle without seeing it and there are different styles of egr that are monitored in different ways.

Hope the info helps in some way.

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10 hours ago, Ecosport2019 said:

Sorry but you say it doesnt move at all, but then say it does a sweep?

Also have you reset/adapted the new egr values?

Sorry, No movement at any point even when it runs its self test when the ignition is turned off. I have run the Reset with Forscan

10 hours ago, Ecosport2019 said:

Also does the code return straight away when turning on ignition?

depending on whether the egr does move on a active test using the scanner, remember when looking at this code dont just take it on face value, alot of the readings come from elsewhere, for example a maf or map sensor will be monitoring the flow when the egr is asked to be at a certain position. If the pcm decides the flow should be more it will automatically bring up a stuck egr valve.

Now obviously the gases go through other pipes and a cooler so any blockage here will still cause tge same problem. 

Obviously this is all a process of elimination, its hard to diagnose someones vehicle without seeing it and there are different styles of egr that are monitored in different ways.

Hope the info helps in some way.

The code comes on at various times (after been cleared) but usually after about 10 - 20 minutes. I am using Forscan and cant find a way to run an active test but I am going to borrow a Solus at the weekend to see if that can run the test

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3 hours ago, miller75 said:

I am using Forscan and cant find a way to run an active test but I am going to borrow a Solus at the weekend to see if that can run the test

Have you had a look in Output Control Mode to see if it can be done there, you could on my Mk 2.5. 

Output Control Mode is only available in the Windows version of FORScan.

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1 hour ago, Tizer said:

Have you had a look in Output Control Mode to see if it can be done there, you could on my Mk 2.5. 

Output Control Mode is only available in the Windows version of FORScan.

It could be the cable I am using because I only had one item in the control list when I tried

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26 minutes ago, miller75 said:

It could be the cable I am using because I only had one item in the control list when I tried

It's probably not that. Different variations of each Engine don't all have the same things available in FORScan including PID's, Tests and Output Control.

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I may be getting somewhere with this, I have tested all the cables and pin 3 should have 0 volts with ignition on but I have 12v. I just hope this isn't an ECU issue as its the ECU Earth.

Has anyone come across this before?

 

B9.thumb.jpg.a6125b574f08898cab8e52144ef42307.jpg 

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So where are you putting the other pin to test this?

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11 hours ago, Ecosport2019 said:

So where are you putting the other pin to test this?

To the battery earth

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1 hour ago, miller75 said:

Unplugged I get 0v Plugged in I get 12v

That would be correct.

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You cant really go much further without an active test of some sort, especially as you are using second hand parts, you might be chasing your tail

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20 hours ago, Ecosport2019 said:

You cant really go much further without an active test of some sort, especially as you are using second hand parts, you might be chasing your tail

I had it on various diagnostics at the weekend, none had the function to command it to open. I have tried a second hand one but I have since fitted brand new Pierburg one.

Having said that I have done some more testing last night, I currently have 3 EGR's (My original, the second hand one and the new one) each one is giving me different voltages on different pins for example (I cant remember the actual pin number its just an example) one will give me 12v on pin 4 0v on pin 2, the next one will give me 0v on pin 4 12v on pin 2 and the last one will give me 8v.

I know they use this valve on many cars, I could be wrong but looking at what I am getting they appear to be wired differently inside.

Of course it could be the car is completely messed up and I am going to have to take it to an auto electrician!

Next job is to order an original Ford part, they are still Pierburg but if it is an issue with how they are wired at least I can rule that out

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok I am really struggling with this now, I have fitted a new Ford valve and a new DPF Pressure sensor (Autodata suggested it could be this) reset the learned values and reset the pcm, it still wont open. 

The difficulty is a soon as the code is thrown the pcm shuts the egr down which is making it difficult to diagnose, I have noticed on Forscan that when you turn the ignition on it flashes with EGE_ERR about 94% even though its not commanding it on, when it does command it on it goes to -100.

This is the freeze frame data when the code it thrown

Code: P042F - EGR 'A' Control Stuck Closed

Status: 
 - DTC Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

 Freeze Frame  #1:
-EVENT_TIME: 297902220 s (Sun Jun 15 11:49:03 2036) - Event time
-TOTAL_DISTANCE: 157374 km - Total Distance
-MODULE_VOLTAGE: 12.0 V - Control Module Voltage
-INCAR_TEMPERATURE: 46 °C - In car temperature
-OUTDOOR_TEMPERATURE: -32 °C - Outside temperature

Now its defiantly not 46 °C - In car temperature and -32 °C - Outside temperature, does anyone know where it gets these temperatures? 

What else can I look for on the EGR?

Thanks

Edit: The date and time showing Sun Jun 15 11:49:03 2036 appears to be a bug in Forescan

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Well i would double check your live data for coolant temp, air temp and air pressure to check they are correct with just ignition on.

Im guessing you still havent found a way to do an active test?

Did you check if you had an egr cooler fitted? Have you removed it yet to see if its blocked and if air can flow through it?

Also with ingition on only, the egr unplugged put a multi meter in each pin once with ground once with battery positive, you should generally get 12v or 5v everytime on every wire.

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3 hours ago, Ecosport2019 said:

Well i would double check your live data for coolant temp, air temp and air pressure to check they are correct with just ignition on.

I did a quick check before I went to work, coolant temp & air pressure are fine. It looks like there are 2 air temp sensors one is reading fine and one is showing 46 °C - In car temperature and -32 °C - Outside temperature so I need to identify which one is faulty, the temp showing on the dash is fine so its the other one.

 

3 hours ago, Ecosport2019 said:

Im guessing you still havent found a way to do an active test?

I have tried quite a few different diagnostics machines and none have the ability to command the EGR

3 hours ago, Ecosport2019 said:

Did you check if you had an egr cooler fitted? Have you removed it yet to see if its blocked and if air can flow through it?

its got a cooler, its like the one in the image. I havent checked the cooler but I have removed the EGR pipe and thats clear

3 hours ago, Ecosport2019 said:

Also with ingition on only, the egr unplugged put a multi meter in each pin once with ground once with battery positive, you should generally get 12v or 5v everytime on every wire.

I have tested the wiring to what it should be and it matches the attached image

s-l1600.jpg

4.jpg

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