If it was me, my next step would be the egr cooler, only reason is because i have had so many on different cars with egr faults, replaced egr without cooler and continued to have issues.

The cooler has smaller Chambers than the egr so blocks first before the egr, i now no longer replace egr valves on their own.

Without having an active you have no way of knowing if the egr valve works, on that note though you have checked the wiring and replaced the valve, all i know is if a car is registering a stuck closed egr then the ecu is either clocking the fact that the egr isnt responding or the air flow isnt what the ecu is expecting so the ecu assumes the egr is stuck shut.

Obviously it may not be this at fault, its only my personal experience.

 

Goodluck 

Thanks again for the reply, The valve does nothing at all plugging it in while not installed and watching it (After resetting learned values and clearing the codes) it just doesn't move!

Well if you're sure it doesn't work then maybe you need to do a resistance check between each pin and the corresponding pin at the ecu plug. A pain i know but you might have a partial break or corrosion on a signal wire etc which may only show up when under load, this would make your values look ok when just testing voltages without the egr being operated.

Also is there somewhere on your egr data that says next to it LEARNT OR NOT LEARNT? 

Does your new genuine ford one have a valeo label on it?

Only reason i ask is i stumbled across this, look at the last post in the forscan forum 

https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8882

11 hours ago, Ecosport2019 said:

Well if you're sure it doesn't work then maybe you need to do a resistance check between each pin and the corresponding pin at the ecu plug. A pain i know but you might have a partial break or corrosion on a signal wire etc which may only show up when under load, this would make your values look ok when just testing voltages without the egr being operated.

I think pulling the ecu is the next job

11 hours ago, Ecosport2019 said:

Does your new genuine ford one have a valeo label on it?

Its a Pierburg thats fitted 

19 hours ago, Ecosport2019 said:

Well if you're sure it doesn't work then maybe you need to do a resistance check between each pin and the corresponding pin at the ecu plug. A pain i know but you might have a partial break or corrosion on a signal wire etc which may only show up when under load, this would make your values look ok when just testing voltages without the egr being operated.

Thanks for all your help on this, I have hopefully finally sorted it.

I have tested the wiring at least a dozen times with a multimeter and with a test lamp to ensure it works under load and everything has been correct. Today when I tested it I had nothing from pin 4 which is the actuator + wire so I pulled the ECU and tested the continuity from both ends and I got nothing.

I have now run a bypass cable from the ECU to the EGR and it now works!!! I am still getting between +- 0 & 17% EGR_ERR but I am hoping that is because I have reset the learned values.

The only thing I can think is the wire was partially broken and it has finally given up

Thats great news👍 

Hopefully thats the end of that,

If you still have problems, check the loom resistance again and gently wiggle parts of the wiring loom to see if the resistance spikes or goes open circuit. Always a good way of finding corroded/partially broken broken wires, especially as wherever your broken wire is there is others running in the same loom probably going to suffer the same fault.