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3rd intercooler burst in just over year!


Simmo80
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3rd time my intercooler pipe burst on me, first 2 times was hot weather, so figured heat would make rubber pipe more flexible and possibly pop.

But third time was on cold wet morning before the car had even hit temperature. What's causing this? Blocked EGR? Dirty intercooler? I think I can tell the pressure doesn't always do the turbo justice. But no codes and still decent drive.

Ford focus 1.8tdci lynx kkda if anyone can help or have had similar problems and solved it? Much appreciated 

 

 

 

IMG_20221117_073231.jpg

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I guess I'll try find a better quality one see if it helps, but ones I bought seemed decent enough. No not mapped, just RamAir performance air filter.

Maybe reinforce new one with duct tape lol. But it won't look good but should do the trick. I think am gonna clean what I can as well as seems to be decent bit of oil spatter in there too.

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7 hours ago, VFR800 said:

Are you getting OEM hoses or eBay specials?

So am thinking one of the silicone reinforced hoses instead of rubber 3ply?

But still feel they could be something wrong. 3 different hoses / different price ranges in space of a year 13mnth at most.

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21 minutes ago, KenM said:

Might be worth checking it’s not over boosting maybe clean map sensor or replace it.

Yes I have some electric spray. I cleaned earlier in the year when I replaced MAF but I'll give another clean. How would I know if it's over boosting?

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If you have Forscan you could look to see if the readings look right. If you are splitting hoses even if they were cheap ones something is wrong. If you are overboosting and not getting any fault codes then it could be the map sensor or wiring to itor a blockage before it could cause this but the I would have thought it wouldn’t run too well, best bet is to run a log on Forscan fist though.

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4 hours ago, KenM said:

If you have Forscan you could look to see if the readings look right. 

I did have a OBD that gave live readings on most sensors but it disappeared on last visit to Mechanic. So am thinking of getting Forscan. Is the software free? 

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Yes software is free for a laptop or only a few pound for android or apple you will then need a connecting lead or blue tooth adaptor, when you go to the Forscan site you will see the recommended adaptors and leads.

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vLinker FS is the new high speed communication lead developed especially for FORScan. It is suitable for older vehicles and also brand new vehicles (2022). It automatically switches between the MS and HS canbus. Also has the 18volt programming capability needed on newer models.

The ELM327(modified) is kind of the original lead. Possibly not so good on newer vehicles. It has a manual switch to change between MS and HS canbus, and does not support 18volt programming. The leads provided by TunnelRat Electronics are tested and are known to work with FORScan. Many leads found on eBay and similar sites often only partly work and in some cases don't work at all.  

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On 11/19/2022 at 10:28 AM, unofix said:

vLinker FS is the new high speed communication lead developed especially for FORScan. It is suitable for older vehicles and also brand new vehicles (2022). It automatically switches between the MS and HS canbus. Also has the 18volt programming capability needed on newer models.

The ELM327(modified) is kind of the original lead. Possibly not so good on newer vehicles. It has a manual switch to change between MS and HS canbus, and does not support 18volt programming. The leads provided by TunnelRat Electronics are tested and are known to work with FORScan. Many leads found on eBay and similar sites often only partly work and in some cases don't work at all.  

I probably won't have one of the newer vehicles until it's not a new vehicle lol 

Thank you. Info much appreciated.

Think the turbo is damaged now as well. Replaced hose with silicone performance. Also had my new tyres and tracking done. But mpg is dropping daily and turbo feels like the car is twice the weight. No smoke from exhaust and more than just a smear of oil spatter in hoses. So am thinking after replacing turbo is they anything else need cleaning besides. Hoses, intercooler, throttle body, sensors? Also read somewhere on here, while searching for location/removal. The 1.8 lynx don't have throttle body. Yet it comes up as an item to buy.

 

 

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Why do you think the turbo is damaged, have you checked the boost pressure? Get the intercooler cleaned and make sure it’s not leaking. Most importantly run a log in FORScan to see what is really happening.

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20 hours ago, KenM said:

Why do you think the turbo is damaged, have you checked the boost pressure? Get the intercooler cleaned and make sure it’s not leaking. Most importantly run a log in FORScan to see what is really happening.

Just the oil in pipes and power loss. I can imagine the turbo worked overtime on the way home after burst pipe. No iam ordering Forscan payday tomorrow and I'll work from there. Just have funny feeling seals gone. I hope am wrong.

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It may be that the seals are leaking a bit but not unusual to see a bit of oil. If it was me I would like to make sure that the turbo isn’t making boost before replacing in case something else is causing the problem. Getting the FORScan lead will be the best money you have ever spent on your car.

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You need to get a laptop and download FORScan (its free for laptop use) and get an ELM327(modified) cable from TunnelRat Electronics. Then next time it happens you can connect straight up, get all the DTC's and see first hand what the issue is.

FORScan: https://forscan.org/download.html

ELM327(modified): https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx

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1 hour ago, unofix said:

You need to get a laptop and download FORScan (its free for laptop use) and get an ELM327(modified) cable from TunnelRat Electronics. Then next time it happens you can connect straight up, get all the DTC's and see first hand what the issue is.

FORScan: https://forscan.org/download.html

ELM327(modified): https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx

Yeah, gonna order it. And it's a constant not intermittent so I won't have to wait for it to happen again lol , defo feels n sounds loss of boost though. Wish I had my standard OBD2 wasn't the best but I could read boost pressure and most basic sensors. But I never had anything to compare too .

Does Forscan have standard values to compare. Cos just a reading don't mean anything to me without trying to Google if it's in the range it's meant to be. And ya never know if I have the right answer or right vehicle answer  if you know what I mean.

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1 hour ago, Simmo80 said:

Does Forscan have standard values to compare. Cos just a reading don't mean anything to me without trying to Google if it's in the range it's meant to be. And ya never know if I have the right answer or right vehicle answer  if you know what I mean.

FORScan does not have standard values to compare your values with.

With most Diesel engines the Boost Pressure, which is the MAP Pressure and may be shown as one or both of them (they are the same thing) in FORScan should be Atmospheric Pressure (approx 100 Kpa) at Idle.

When revving the engine it will go up a little, but you only get maximum boost when driving, and that can touch approx 240 Kpa maximum and only briefly. If it is much more than this, then something is wrong.

I don't know the exact MAF pressure you should expect for that engine but I would expect it to be approx 6 to 10 g/s at Idle, and driving it should go up and down roughly the same as the MAP pressure. You can see that if you go onto the Graph view,

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On 11/27/2022 at 9:42 PM, Tizer said:

FORScan does not have standard values to compare your values with.

With most Diesel engines the Boost Pressure, which is the MAP Pressure and may be shown as one or both of them (they are the same thing) in FORScan should be Atmospheric Pressure (approx 100 Kpa) at Idle.

When revving the engine it will go up a little, but you only get maximum boost when driving, and that can touch approx 240 Kpa maximum and only briefly. If it is much more than this, then something is wrong.

I don't know the exact MAF pressure you should expect for that engine but I would expect it to be approx 6 to 10 g/s at Idle, and driving it should go up and down roughly the same as the MAP pressure. You can see that if you go onto the Graph view,

Looking like no leak. But iam still dropping in power and MPG. MPG has gone down from 40 to 37 seems to be dropping one point every day or two. Day before yesterday was 37.1 now 37.0.. what else do i need to check with forscan?

map.PNG

map graph.PNG

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Looking at the graph there you are only reving the car you really need to drive the car to see how much boost you are getting, something like 3rd gear uphill if poss with plenty of revs. The inlet air temp does not look right but then I’m not sure where it reads from on the 1.8.

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9 minutes ago, KenM said:

Looking at the graph there you are only reving the car you really need to drive the car to see how much boost you are getting, something like 3rd gear uphill if poss with plenty of revs. The inlet air temp does not look right but then I’m not sure where it reads from on the 1.8.

Gonna fully charge laptop and leave it running while testing. Don't know how cylinder balance meant to look but looks like 2 and 4 running different to 1 and 3. But that was also idle running. Think I read somewhere that I should run it at 2k rpms

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