focus mk4 camera install

[Rickychips]

Here is a Step-by-step guide of my reverse camera installation and I will try to give as much detail as possible.



I take no responsibility if you use my guide.

I used a Chinese reverse camera that's built into the boot latch and I got a 54pin Apim adaptor, this caused some issues so I don't advise using one, I cut out the pins and plugged them directly into the Apim connector you can get the pins with the RCA plug off eBay I'll add some photos for reference and what slots the pins go into.

Tools needed
10mm socket
7mm socket 
T25 Bit
T20 Bit
Flat head screwdriver
Trim panel tools (optional)

Camera used



I used forscan to activate the camera first, someone on this forum explains how to do it, but I don't know how to link it so I screenshot his post.
1,

There are 4 screws in the boot panel where the handles are, remove the cover to access them, remove 4 screws with a T20 star bit,
Pull on the handles to remove the trim panel.

2

Remove trim panels around the window give them a tug they'll pop out. If there are any yellow clips still in the boot you will need to pull these out before you put the trim panels back.

3,

Remove the old boot release, this is quite tricky there are 4 metal clips 1 on each side I broke 2 getting the old one out, Put the new boot release with camera in.

4,

Connect the cable with power and ground, I put a ring connector on the ground and added it to an existing ground bolt and connected the power to the reverse light.

5.5,
5,

Pull off the c pillar panel and gently pull the roof liner from the seal so you can run the RCA cable.

I run the RCA cable through the rubber cable protector, I found it easy to remove the rubber from the clips put the cable through then removed the plastic clips (4 tabs) then put the rubber back on the clips then clipped it back in.
6,

Run the cable from the back to the front of the car through the cable tray you have to pull back the interior panels.

7,

Next I needed to get access to the Apim module.

Open the glove box and remove the top shelf
8,

Remove 4 bolts, 2 10mm at the back and 2 7mm at the top
9,
10,

Pull the glovebox out and unplug the light.
11,

Drivers footwell there is a circle cover remove that and unbolt 1 7mm bolt,
12

Remove the gear surround first, using trim tools helps but I didn't have any so I was careful and got a screwdriver behind to give me a gap and i pulled it up with my fingers, then pull both side panels off
13,

Remove 2 screws with a T25 star bit then lift tabs up then you can pull the tray it has 2 clips  at the back so needs a good pull, you don't need to disconnect it just pull it back a little so when you take the heating controls out it can come out.
14,

Remove the little trim panel behind the screen to access the 3 7mm bolts then unplug the screen, push the little tab and pull it off mine was on real tight.
15,
16,
17,

Remove the 2 7mm bolts and pull the trim panel off and disconnect the plug
18,
19,
20,

Remove the 2 7mm bolts and pull out the vents and unplug the hazards
21,

Remove the 2 7mm bolts on top of the heating controls
22,

Under the steering wheel pull back the panel to access 1 7mm bolt, I didn't need to remove the whole panel just enough to get a socket in.
23,

Pull out the heating controls and unplug, this has a lot of clips holding it in place and its really hard to pull out.
24,

Unplug the radio system and remove 4 7mm bolts, then pull out the unit.
25,

On the Apim connector push the tab and slide the latch to the right, the connector is tucked up at the back.
26 ,

To access the pin slots you need to remove them from the connector use a screwdriver to push the tabs and pull out the cables then insert the RCA into slots 14 &15 slide the connector back over the cables and plug it back in.
27,
28,
29
30

Connect the RCA leads together then I taped the excess cable to the dash bar to keep it out of the way.
31,
32,

I put the radio system back and plugged everything back in except the heating controls to test the camera before I bolted everything back up. Then followed my steps in reverse to put the car back together.

[unofix]

Excellent guide @Rickychips 👍

I did half a write up on this 2 years ago, but not as detailed as yours. I found just the RCA/APIM lead on eBay as I didn't like using the bulky adapter cable that seems to be what most people use. (link below).

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=175408931039&_sacat=0

[Rickychips]

Yea I had issues with the bulky adapter, there's no room for it and I must of knocked other connectors because I lost a lot of functions that's why I cut the pins out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[piotrmod]

I have retrofitted the genuine camera. There are certain advantages: very good quality, precise steering lines (really do the job), zoom/wide options and last but not least it is genuine.

There is just need to buy socket on alliexpress, drag one line from BCM (LIN for steering lines & zoom button to work).

And, instead of adding this huge adapter, I have added just pins (pigtails) which is much easier and can be done without unmounting half of the car 🙂  See how I did it. Just remove the screen, the trim with buttons and the ventilation grill. Rest is a "gynaecologist" job.

[Alex.S]

On 2/22/2023 at 2:36 PM, Rickychips said:

Then followed my steps in reverse to put the car back together

Hats off 

[DannykEN7]

22 hours ago, rd457 said:

It's fine, I only have a limited understanding myself, having never actually done this before. (The desktop version of ForScan is only available for Microsoft Windows, which I don't have).

Sorry, by 'full' I just meant with respect to that one specific module, not for every module.

I'll try and walk you through it as best as I can, and perhaps someone else with more experience will step in with further help if needed...

1. Open up ForScan, select the programming/config option on the left panel, and then select the 'AS BUILT format' option for the module you replaced. You'll see a representation of all of the config data stored by that module. Don't worry about trying to understand it.
2. Next go to this website (owned by ford) to get the As-Built data, first select your country if prompted, then enter your vehicle's VIN, you'll then be presented with your vehicle's As-Built data. You'll be given an option to download the complete set of data for all modules as a file, and also you'll be shown the raw data itself.
3. One way you can then proceed is to just match up what is shown by ForScan with the relevant portions of the raw data shown on the website and manually make any necessary adjustments. Doing it this way, ForScan will be showing you a list of one or more 'module-block-page' indentifiers that look like '720-01-01', each with a set of associated data values next to them. For each identifier you'd simply need to find the matching one shown on the website, compare the associated values, and if any differ, adjust the values in the ForScan interface to match those on the website and then you'd use the 'write' buttons or the 'write all' button at the bottom to apply any changes to the module.
4. Alternatively you can download the file that contains the values for all modules, then in ForScan I believe one of the buttons at the bottom will allow you to select that file, it will take the values from it that are relevant to the currently selected module and will update the displayed values with those from the file. Then you can use the 'write' buttons, or 'write all' button at the bottom to apply any changes to the module.

It is worth understanding that the alternative config interface that gives you a friendly list of options that you can modify will not necessarily allow you to modify every value stored in the module's config memory, whereas this alternative interface does. Thus setting up your new module using this more advanced interface may do a more thorough job.

As for performing the init/re-learn procedure (to retrieve the values that then need to be copied from the BCM), I unfortunately didn't see anything in the research I read yesterday to indicate where exactly this functionality is provided within ForScan. I presume that there must be a simple button to be clicked somewhere within the programming/config interface, perhaps within the 'as built' interface discussed above (try hovering over the buttons at the bottom and see what their tooltips say). Alternatively perhaps the button is only available when you select the BCM module (presumably in this case it would trigger a relearn on all modules), or maybe there's a special entry in the module list similar to the special one for adjusting mileage.

 

On 2/23/2023 at 6:29 PM, piotrmod said:

I have retrofitted the genuine camera. There are certain advantages: very good quality, precise steering lines (really do the job), zoom/wide options and last but not least it is genuine.

There is just need to buy socket on alliexpress, drag one line from BCM (LIN for steering lines & zoom button to work).

And, instead of adding this huge adapter, I have added just pins (pigtails) which is much easier and can be done without unmounting half of the car 🙂  See how I did it. Just remove the screen, the trim with buttons and the ventilation grill. Rest is a "gynaecologist" job.

Great write up guys. I want to fit the genuine camera, but my question is, what cable do I need that runs from the camera and also powers it up? 
I’ve seen the links for the rca female end by the APIM but not the long cable.

Obviously the Chinese cameras have the cable already attached, however the OEM camera has a connector, so am a bit unsure on what is needed.

Sorry guys if I’m missing something.

[Rickychips]

When I looked into using factory camera, all I could find was that what's needed is a new module and wiring loom for it to work, I know in the mk3 focus some cars had the module and loom you had to look for a grey plug behind the panel in the boot not sure if it's the same with the mk4.

[unofix]

On 2/23/2023 at 6:29 PM, piotrmod said:

drag one line from BCM (LIN for steering lines & zoom button to work).

Hello Piotr @piotrmod, would you be able to give me some details about the wire from the BCM [C2280F - 59]  to ?  for the steering lines please

I don't have an original Ford camera but was wondering if connecting the missing wire would actually make the lines work on my after market camera. Of course I don't expect the zoom to work but that's not a real concern.

Thanks 👍

 

[DannykEN7]

On 2/23/2023 at 6:29 PM, piotrmod said:

I have retrofitted the genuine camera. There are certain advantages: very good quality, precise steering lines (really do the job), zoom/wide options and last but not least it is genuine.

There is just need to buy socket on alliexpress, drag one line from BCM (LIN for steering lines & zoom button to work).

And, instead of adding this huge adapter, I have added just pins (pigtails) which is much easier and can be done without unmounting half of the car 🙂  See how I did it. Just remove the screen, the trim with buttons and the ventilation grill. Rest is a "gynaecologist" job.

 Hi mate, am really confused here. What loom/ connector did you use from the genuine camera itself to bring to the APIM and BCM? Do you have a link to all the wiring parts?

Thanks mate

[piotrmod]

Here is the wiring diagram you need. Camera has connector C4357. There is no need to buy the whole tailgate loom.  Only connector for camera, and cables from it going do the place where is the connector C405 (right side, close to the rear lamp). Ford save like a hell, so there will be no cables and pins in this connector, all are missing. To the same place (close to C405), you need to drag cables from APIM and BCM. This cables can tied together for good, however it is better to add there any kind of pluggable connector in case of need to remove tailgate (body repair). It is also possible to reuse C405 and add missing pins but there are quite specific and might be difficult to find exact male & female pins, the only reasonable source of such pins is same type of connector from scrap.

So, camera connector has five lines.

C4357 #1 - power supply, connect to a wire from C405 #6

C4357 #2 - LIN from BCM, connect to C2280F #59

C4357 #3 - video to APIM C2383A #15

C4357 #4 - video to APIM C2383A #14

C4357 #5 - ground, connect via shied to APIM C2383A #33

If there is no PDC (it happens !!! ), there one more line to add - from the famous fuse F3 to C4357 #1.

 

[piotrmod]

The white cable added to BCM, (it was the same type as one added to APIM connector):

[DannykEN7]

Ok, it seem ok looking at the wiring.

C405, is that the connector for the PDC(Parking distance control), and is this located near the light on the tailgate or near the control module behind the boot carpet? Am a bit lost there.

also the connector for the camera, do I get this from ford? And are the wires and pins I get, just the standard stuff.

Really sorry to keep asking.

[piotrmod]

Somewhere there, just follow the right bunch of tailgate wires:

[piotrmod]

Camera connector:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004283700650.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.3a1d4bc0EVqaDy&algo_pvid=f74f136f-0ebb-43d6-ae9a-b734cc009089&algo_exp_id=f74f136f-0ebb-43d6-ae9a-b734cc009089-0&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000028623769877"}&pdp_npi=3%40dis!PLN!5.75!4.08!!!!!%402145279016791397590174225d0715!12000028623769877!sea!PL!0&curPageLogUid=LiB0IfbPXn4b&gatewayAdapt=glo2pol

 

[DannykEN7]

24 minutes ago, piotrmod said:

Somewhere there, just follow the right bunch of tailgate wires:

Lol, I’m still confused.

so am I running the wire to that location for power.

it seems I have to run from the camera, around the tailgate, through the cable secure to be headliner then back around the side?

also is there a wire at that end that goes to power?

[DannykEN7]

48 minutes ago, piotrmod said:

Somewhere there, just follow the right bunch of tailgate wires:

Is that the supply I’m looking for?

[piotrmod]

From the camera, go like that (pink). C405 is on on main body, not on the tailgate. From C405, you just need to connect to one wire - power supply. 

Steps 5 and 5.5 (first post) do not apply to OEM camera since OEM camera is permanently powered from F3, GND is taken from APIM via shield. That could be confusing. I have LHD car, so all cables from the front goes on the right side. RHD car has BCM on the left, the author drag cables on the left side. So maybe you can think about putting only power cable via right side from C405 and rest via left side? Honestly, power can be taken directly from fuse F3 and goes with all other wires, so that you don't have to worry about C405 any more. Just a suggestion.

 

 

[DannykEN7]

Ok i’m with you! 😁

Mate, you have been an absolute star, I really appreciate all the info.

 

With regards to the actual wire, what kind did you use, and also did any need shielding from interference?

Last question, I promise! For now 😬

[piotrmod]

I use industrial automation cables. They are strong, withstand low and high temperatures. Automotive cables are expensive because usually you need to buy whole spindles. 

This is cable I used for video signal. Of course, there are cables used in acoustics or just RCA video cables, but I would doubt about durability of cheap ones.

[DannykEN7]

30 minutes ago, piotrmod said:

I use industrial automation cables. They are strong, withstand low and high temperatures. Automotive cables are expensive because usually you need to buy whole spindles. 

This is cable I used for video signal. Of course, there are cables used in acoustics or just RCA video cables, but I would doubt about durability of cheap ones.

Brilliant, thanks mate. And if ever in London, then I owe you drink 🍺 

[DannykEN7]

On 3/18/2023 at 10:50 AM, piotrmod said:

The white cable added to BCM, (it was the same type as one added to APIM connector):

The line that goes to #59 of the BCM, does it come direct from the camera? Or does it have to connect from the BCM to APIM?

[piotrmod]

Directly from the camera to BCM:

[unofix]

37 minutes ago, piotrmod said:

Directly from the camera to BCM:

Thanks for confirming that Piotr.

I had been hoping that it might have been from the BCM to the APIM, since my camera only has power and video.

Some day I might redo the job and fit the real Ford camera, but it's not an urgent task just something nice to have.

[DannykEN7]

On 3/18/2023 at 7:48 PM, piotrmod said:

I use industrial automation cables. They are strong, withstand low and high temperatures. Automotive cables are expensive because usually you need to buy whole spindles. 

This is cable I used for video signal. Of course, there are cables used in acoustics or just RCA video cables, but I would doubt about durability of cheap ones.

Morning fella, do you have a link to a site where I could buy this wire? I know I’ll also need a single core for the LIN. Everything I have seen states for Audio? If you have a link, then im sure I can source here in the UK, just want to make sure I get the right grade.

Think the ground and power are just normal 22gauge wire.

Thanks again 

[DannykEN7]

6 hours ago, DannykEN7 said:

Morning fella, do you have a link to a site where I could buy this wire? I know I’ll also need a single core for the LIN. Everything I have seen states for Audio? If you have a link, then im sure I can source here in the UK, just want to make sure I get the right grade.

Think the ground and power are just normal 22gauge wire.

Thanks again 

Would this harness do the job?