Ford Focus Mk2 1.6 TDCi 66 kw - Engine Malfunction

[WPWsyndrome]

Hello everyone. I hope you are having a great day.

So I am quite new to the motorist world and got myself a first car quite a while back (about 1 year and 2 months). It's a Ford Focus Mk2 1.6 TDCi 66 kw (DA3/GDPA1P/5KACMP diesel to be specific), 2010.

I had an issue with the main display on the dashboard (it was not showing anything, only the light has been illuminating the background) which I got fixed recently (replaced for 95 euros). Currently, I had started to experience "Engine Malfunction" - meaning that the engine shuts down in the middle of driving, which as you can imagine is quite stressful event when you drive in 90 km/h outside city and there is a traffic, not mentioning it can be also dangerous for every member of the traffic.

I have a friend who has a diagnostic software, so we checked what would be the faults and the software showed these:

• U0167 - Lost Comms With Immobiliser Module
• P253F - Engine oil Deteriorated
• P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor "A" Circuit High
• P0698 - Sensor Reference Voltage Circuit "C" Low
• P0490 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation "A" Control Circuit High 
• P042F - Exhaust Gas Recirculation "A" Control Stuck Closed 

I have read some other forums where similar issues have been discussed regarding the engine malfunction and it appears that it's rather a complex issue, and many times even certified workshop just shoots their shot (but of course charging the customer for every shot).

I have figured that many of you might have experienced engine malfunction issue and got it resolved. I know I am rather lucky to had the opportunity to have the faults checked. So my question is:

Have anyone had "Engine Malfunction" and identified one of the faults I described that are relevant to an engine itself? How did you resolve this? Would you recommend tackling some of the issues by myself (e.g. the changing the fuel pressure sensor or cleaning the EGR)?

Thank you everyone who took the time and contributed to this threat. I believe that it would help many others experiencing this issue.

Cheers.

[WPWsyndrome]

UPDATE:

I have changed the EGR valve with a new one that I got for a fair price (it's this one - link, however I payed significantly less since it was wholesale price for my cousins workshop). Since there was an issue with the fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor, I initially wanted to replace only the EGR valve and see if the FRP sensor issue will resolve itself, as I have found in one video  that short-circuited EGR valve can cause problems with FRP sensor. Nevertheless, when I dismantled the EGR valve, I found out that the FRP sensor is located just below the valve, so it would be pain in the ***** to dismantle the new EGR again just to replace the FRP sensor in case it was faulted. As such, we ordered new sensor (this one - link), that came in couple of hours while the hood was opened and EGR dismantled, and replaced both FRP sensor and the EGR valve.

After changing both, I have read somewhere that you need to reset EGR learned values through diagnostic tool, so that's what we did (before turning on the engine). After that, we deleted the faulty codes and started the engine. I also read that you should let it idle for 5 minutes before driving so that the software learns to work with the new EGR valve, and after 5 minutes we took it for a drive. No shutting off so far, and I noticed increase in output straight away.

As such, the whole problem was solved for around 90 euros, and I can imagine if I just sent it to a workshop, it wouldn't take so short and I would ended up paying significantly more. Nevertheless, I had the privilege of working in my cousins workshop (it's a tire workshop/garage) and the prices were also lower since they buy directly from wholesale.

Please, also find another discussion on this topic from a different thread (sorry I created another one, but I wanted to find out where is the position of the FRP sensor) in this link in case you are interested.

I have read that many of you guys had issues with the EGR shortly after replacing it, so I hope that it won't happen in my case. Good luck with your endeavours!

Cheers.

[VFR800]

Tomas, thanks for the post and follow-up. I always love the process that people use to work out issues and problems with their Ford's, one question, does your start/stop work, asking for a friend!?

 

Welcome to the club and let's hope your issues have been sorted.

[WPWsyndrome]

2 minutes ago, VFR800 said:

Tomas, thanks for the post and follow-up. I always love the process that people use to work out issues and problems with their Ford's, one question, does your start/stop work, asking for a friend!?

 

Welcome to the club and let's hope your issues have been sorted.

Hello!

My Ford Focus is Mk2 1.6 TDCi diesel 66 kw from 2010. It doesn't have the start/stop unfortunately (or fortunately? hahaha)

[WPWsyndrome]

Hello everyone! I am here with a small update, and need of your expertise again.

After changing the EGR valve and the FRP sensor, the car was working well. Since I had the MOT due, I scheduled, went there and unfortunately there was an issue with the handbrake system on both sides. As such, my cousins magic solved this issue with replacing the bearing, discs, calliper and the pads (is that the correct name in English?) - all approximately 150 euros (*sad face*). Nevertheless, when we finished changing the brakes system and after deaerating the brakes, the engine malfunction was turning the engine off (you can imagine my frustration). 

We deaerated the brakes by uplifting the rear side of the car only, since the design of the callipers won't allow sufficient deaerating without pulling up the rear side of the vehicle. The fuel tank was almost empty at that time, so the first thought was if an air got into the system and could basically cause an embolism (at least that's how I imagined it since I have healthcare background hahaha). 

The engine was turning off after some time again and after 3rd or 4th time it won't start back on again. We tried to check if the fuel pump is working (by pumping the diesel out of the system - from the pipe that goes to the fuel filter) and it was empty (it took couple of strokes to get the diesel out). After we connected the pipe to the filter, the engine turned on.

So my question is - do you think the issue now will be in the fuel pump? Where would I locate it on this car? (I checked some videos and apparently it's on the top of the fuel tank, below the right back seat and to get to it without disassembling the whole tank, you can make a hole in the body - I know it sounds brutal but actually it's not that bad, and I believe almost efficient in case of future malfunctions).

Thank you for your comments.

Cheers.

[monkey×wrench]

what DTC's are still present at the moment?

i think "fuel rail" means the high pressure common rail... after the high pressure fuel pump. The on in the tank is just to lift the fuel out of the tank towards the h.p. pump. I ' m not sure of the specifics of your model, but i believe the sensor is on the common rail. 

Try to find a normal range for your car .. something like 300-1500 bar or something... then try to read out the fuel pressure sensor live data via OBD2.  

But since the sensor is new (OEM or aftermarket?) ... there is something causing a high pressure signal.

• P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor "A" Circuit High

 

- if the fuel pump hose before the fuel filter was empty, you may have an airleak (Do you have black or transparent fuel hoses? Any bubbles to be seen with the engine running?)

or it is indeed the l.p. fuel pump on the fuel tank. Not sure of the wiring - try to find a schematic for your model, but you should be able to measure out for continuity or ohms across the fuel pump motor coil... should measura a few ohms. If it's open circuit, that's it for the pump.

Try this...find the fuel pump fuse...pull it out, measure voltage on both sides of the empty fuse holder against the chassis or battery minus. One side should have +12VDC, the other 0VDC. Then switch to ohms and measure resistance one the 0VDC side against the chassis or battery minus (provided you probably have the battery minus connected to the chassis)
 

 

[WPWsyndrome]

On 6/17/2023 at 7:55 AM, monkey×wrench said:

what DTC's are still present at the moment?

i think "fuel rail" means the high pressure common rail... after the high pressure fuel pump. The on in the tank is just to lift the fuel out of the tank towards the h.p. pump. I ' m not sure of the specifics of your model, but i believe the sensor is on the common rail. 

Try to find a normal range for your car .. something like 300-1500 bar or something... then try to read out the fuel pressure sensor live data via OBD2.  

But since the sensor is new (OEM or aftermarket?) ... there is something causing a high pressure signal.

• P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor "A" Circuit High

 

- if the fuel pump hose before the fuel filter was empty, you may have an airleak (Do you have black or transparent fuel hoses? Any bubbles to be seen with the engine running?)

or it is indeed the l.p. fuel pump on the fuel tank. Not sure of the wiring - try to find a schematic for your model, but you should be able to measure out for continuity or ohms across the fuel pump motor coil... should measura a few ohms. If it's open circuit, that's it for the pump.

Try this...find the fuel pump fuse...pull it out, measure voltage on both sides of the empty fuse holder against the chassis or battery minus. One side should have +12VDC, the other 0VDC. Then switch to ohms and measure resistance one the 0VDC side against the chassis or battery minus (provided you probably have the battery minus connected to the chassis)
 

 

Thank you for the reply. Currently, there's only one DTC when the diagnosis was plugged in right when the engine stoped - P0193 (although, the first time it died it showed issues with EGR valve and since I installed a new one, it shouldn't be a problem and I reckon it was some short-circuit because of the unresolved problem - it showed the EGR was closed and I checked with the percentage, it was working good).

Unfortunately, the hose is black so I can't see any bubbles in case of an air leak. How would I find out otherwise, and how can an air leak happen? I'll try out with the pump, hopefully it will be the problem since I don't want to replace all wiring in the car before resolving the issue haha.

Thanks!