Hi Guys,

Im wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction with my 2012 Eco boost. A few months ago we noticed that every now and then it would struggle to go until it completely stopped and wouldnt go over 20 ( Limp mode ) AA came out and said there was a problem with the High pressure rail so it would need to go to the garage. Garage said a new high pressure fuel pump and sensor. Fine. Parts replaced. Car works again but from time to time looses power then picks back up.

Mechanic suggestion was that as the car was around 95000 a wet belt replacement would probably be the best thing for it and should solve the issues. Aligned everything to have this done the little car went and had all its parts pulled out and replaced and a pretty high expense. The following parts where replaced.

Crankshaft bolt, Crankshaft friction washer, Engine oil, Gaskets and seals , Oil filter , Oil pump belt and Wet timing belt.

Mechanic advised the belt they replaced looked in good condition and the oil looked okay. Still needed doing.

The car was like new for a few days then while driving the car suddenly died and wouldnt restart, being some distance from home i called the AA again. When the guy turned up he said that the following errors came up and made the following notes.

P0191, P06a7, Engine Oil Level Ok. Coolant Level Ok.

He said that if he couldnt see the fuel needle he would have said the car had no fuel. He reset the codes and the car started and got us home ( 70 miles ish ) without a single problem. Strange. then a few days later it did it again, Codes cleared car moved 4 feet and produced the same codes. Cleared them again and the car went fine, i have been driving it round the block once a day and so far cannot make it re do it.

Is anyone able to point me in the right direct rather than playing part roulette as both codes above are so generic and random, I did try calling ford but the ones near us have up to a 2 month waiting list.

Any advice appriciated.

Thanks

Mike

 

My gut feeling is that the in-tank fuel pump is starting to fail.  This one just feeds fuel up to the high pressure pump that you've had replaced.

If the car cuts out again.  Get out, lock it and leave it for a few minutes.  When you return and open the door, you should hear the pump whining.

Sounds eerily similar to a problem a had last year on my 2013 Smax with the 1.6 ecoboost.
Turned out it needed a new tank pump and 4 new injectors as they were all contaminated (somehow!). 
Codes were pointing to fuel pressure and effect was limp mode, eml, smoke out exhaust, misfiring.

Hey guys,

Thanks thats useful, you do hear the noise of the fuel pump when you open the driver door. In terms of "Symptoms" it doesnt Smoke / misfire. However i my gut was around dirty fuel or something as its to inconsistant to be say a "Broken" wire. I will look around at the in tank pump and see if that helps 🙂

Also look at the pump driver module which is a little box of tricks screwed to the top of the tank. It might have loose or damaged wiring or be on its way out too..

@Smartd00d Would you be able to provide me the name of that piece ?

So Fuel pump changes ( That was not fun )... However car still doing it 😕

 

It is litterally like the car stalls. It just stops running. 9 times out of 10 pull over turn key it restarts fine and off it goes. 1 out of 10 need to plug diag in and clear codes, Restart and it goes.

 

Any other ideas ?

As suggested, and from my 30+ years as an autotech, this definately sounds like the LP fuel pump (the one in the fuel tank). 

Other possible causes are a completely collapsed Catalytic convertor  obstructing the exhaust.

Bad engine ground/loose battery terminals or other bad electrical contact.

Faulty replaced parts.

Bad fuel, water in fuel or as Ecobooms don't like supermarket fuel, maybe just cheap crappy E10.

 

But most of all the code you have points to low pressure fuel so the LP pump is the most likely...also check the fuel pump relay is OK.

 

Hey @Smaky,

 

Thanks for your reply, I can't begin to tell you how greatful i am for the suggestions. So far ive changed

HP Fuel Pump
HP Fuel Sensor
LP Fuel Pump ( Whole assembly in tank )
 

I would be suprised if it was the Cat as if i clear the errors some times it will go for 100+ miles other times 2 miles. I Thought bad fuel if im honest but ive been running premium unleaded through it since it started.

You mentioned the Fuel pump relay i havent checked that i will today. I've attached a diag from ForScan from the other day, going to test it again shortly.

 

car.txt

Did anyone have any further suggestions ?

25 minutes ago, Smithygotlost said:

Did anyone have any further suggestions ?

No.  We're all avoiding any responsibility for this one now.

It's frustrating that you don't have any proper codes coming up.  The sensor reference voltage one is too vague not to play parts roulette with.  Honestly, I think the next test should be wiring (particularly FPRS wiring) but I wouldn't rule out an internal PCM fault either.

I think some of those codes may be red herrings - the crank sensor one for example, is probably being triggered by the engine stalling, rather than being the cause of it.

1 hour ago, Smithygotlost said:

Did anyone have any further suggestions ?

Only one...... 🙁

Quote

No.  We're all avoiding any responsibility for this one now.

Haha not holding anyone responsible 😛 just people taking better educated guesses than me 😛

 

Tried to get it in with Ford and their booked for the next 3 months. Seems its going to be a problem.

3 months wait sounds like they just don't want the job rather than actually being booked up. 

You could try a local auto-electrician for wiring tests.  Or post the PCM to an electronics place to have that fully tested.  I'm not sure on the costs for either of those though. 

Bearing in mind you have already replaced key components for code P0191 and still have a problem, maybe it could be something other than directly fuel related.

I note from a Google search that vacuum issues can also cause the code. From experience I know that some of the vacuum pipes on this engine can be problematic. 

May be worth doing a detailed inspection of all the vac pipes to look for splits/breaks/deterioration.

Clutching at straws, you could also indulge me by cleaning the MAF sensor with electrical cleaner.