Problem with  turbo turbocharger boost control A circuit open p0045 

egr cooler bypass control circuit bank1 p245a 

I’ve replaced boost solenoid

replaced wastegate actuator 

still have no turbo atall and constant limp mode 

Open circuit often means broken wire.  Need to test the wiring to the solenoid with a multimeter.

Tested wiring to solenoid I’m getting no reading atall no volts 

Solenoid been changed no difference 

replaced solenoid electrical plug no difference 

checked the ecm plugs tested the solenoid wire blue/yellow multi metre beeps means no break? I think 

tested brown/white coming out the solenoid to the ecm plug same thing beeps 

I’ve cleared the rest off the codes todo with dpf only code I have left is an egr one I’ve blanked the egr 

And I still have code p0045 

car has no power atall 

If you're not getting any voltage at the solenoid then that's the problem. 

Continuity (beep) test shows that at least part of the wire is connected all the way through, but it could still be partially rubbed somewhere or have a weak connection.  It's also possible that there's a fault inside the PCM preventing that sending any voltage to the solenoid at all.

Difficult to know what to suggest next.  Either needs some deeper wiring tests which @unofix might be able to help with.  Or have the PCM tested.

Have you checked that the negative wire is in good condition and is still connected ?

Connect your meter between the battery positive terminal and the negative lead on the plug going to the solenoid. You should get 12 Volts if the earth wire is good.

Sorry I don’t know which wire is the negative to the solenoid plug there’s 2 wires. 

Red multi meter wire to the positive on the battery

 black multi meter wire straight to the solenoid plug 

is this what you mean?

What wire do I attach the negative meter wire to solenoid has 2 wires yellow/blue brown white 

 

thanks for your reply 

• Set the multimeter to measure DC volts.
• Connect the positive (red) meter lead to the positive of the car battery.
• Connect the negative (black) meter lead to the 'brown/white' wire in the connector for the solenoid. Does your meter read 12V or more ?
• Next move your negative (black) meter lead and connect to the 'yellow/blue' wire in the connector. Does your meter read 12V or more ?
• One of those two wires should give you a reading of 12V or more. The other wire will either give you no voltage or some reading which is a lot less than 12V.

If you do not get a reading of at least 12V on one of the wires then you quite probably have a broken negative supply to the solenoid.

Thankyou again for the reply 

should I leave the solenoid plugged in whilst doing these test or just test the plug itself 

i will try this tomorrow then back to you on here, if I don’t have any volts is the earth the brown/white wire? I will strip all the coating off the big loom

to the ecm to find a split wire or will this be a broken earth to the battery? 

here’s the multi meter I’m using, the setting I have it set to now is this the dc setting? I guess the meter wires are in the right place?

thanks 

Unfortunately I don't have the wiring schematic for your vehicle. My guess would be the brown/white wire should be the earth (negative) and the other will be the positive control supply.

The earth wire won't go back to the ECM, it will be connected to a chassis earth point probably less than 500mm away.

When I tested the 2 wires on the solenoid plug  going to the ecm plug I was getting Continuity (beep) on both wires to 2 separate ecm pins on the plug I think both wires are linked to the ecm 

I can see the ecm has been replaced before as it says galaxy on it with a white marker I will try everything you’ve said 

Whilst testing the wires tomorrow for 12volts should I leave the solenoid plugged in? 

I'd just leave it unplugged. It's the car that has a problem so just test the wiring, you already know the solenoid is OK 👍

11 hours ago, Haydz1992x said:

I can see the ecm has been replaced before as it says galaxy on it with a white marker I will try everything you’ve said 

Have you owned the car for a while or bought it with this fault present?  Just wondering if the previous owner had been trying to fix this issue and ended up just selling it instead.

Recently bought with a dpf blockage issue that’s what the owner said, I’ve had the dpf cleaned ect but he didn’t mention about the issue I’m having now he said the power loss was due to the dpf 

Red wire to positive batteryBlack wire to yellow/blue reading 0.03 same with engine running 

Red wire to positive battery Black wire to brown/white reading 0.13 and 0.18 engine running

Should I strip the loom back from the solenoid plug all the way to the ecm plug? 

13 minutes ago, Haydz1992x said:

Recently bought with a dpf blockage issue that’s what the owner said, I’ve had the dpf cleaned ect but he didn’t mention about the issue I’m having now he said the power loss was due to the dpf 

Hmm, that opens up a few more potential issues.  We don't even know if the PCM is exactly the right one now.  It might be setup for a different type of turbo actuator for example.

From what I’ve searched (2010 smax ecm) the same one seems to be coming up with part number 

I’m gonna lee stripping back to see if I can rule off a broken wire 

Is there any test I can do with forscan or data I can upload here to show? 
 

could the turbo be the problem? 
 

 

4 minutes ago, Haydz1992x said:

Is there any test I can do with forscan or data I can upload here to show? 
 

could the turbo be the problem? 

It's difficult when someone else has obviously been there before.  I don't know enough about Galaxy's & S-Max's to know whether there are PCM variations.  If you don't mind posting the reg, I can check the parts catalogue.  We also don't know how that PCM was removed & stored...if it had come from a crashed car, it's possible the internal soldering may have cracked.

I'm 99% sure it's not the turbo.  That will be stuck in 'failsafe' mode (wide open vanes) until the solenoid applies some vacuum to the actuator.

Stripping the loom would be messy and time consuming, so I'd avoid that for now if possible.

I'm struggling to think of the most suitable next step now.  Can you probe the back of the PCM plugs while they're plugged in?  I'd be very interested to know if the PCM is supplying voltage to either of the two wires that you beep tested for the solenoid.

have you checked the vac pipe common issue? 

if you look directly under the intake manifold where the big central pipe from intercooler goes, (yours will look like a Y with 2 big pipes)

there's a junction of small vac pipes that commonly pop off and cause this issue. hard to see but 100% worth checking

Reg is YH60 OYN 

Would that be at the front or back of the engine 

Parts catalogue isn't particularly helpful unfortunately.  Looks like the same basic PCM was used on many different engines and just programmed differently.  Part numbers change slightly as they move through the years and as minor revisions are made.  As we don't know the part number of your original one, we can't know if the replacement is older or not.

 

The vac pipes are at the front of the engine.

have a nosey in these areas for small vac pipes

known to get knockd off during oil filter changes