Hi Folks, 

Needing a little help to figure out an issue that’s driving me crazy! 
I have a MK7 2011/2012 Ford Fiesta 1.6s Zetec.

The Power train/ Transmission light keeps coming on and the car then has reduced power, NO engine check light. Any time I do an OBD reading it only shows a code P2125 - pedal position sensor error.
 

I’ve changed the pedal twice along with a new throttle body, both parts were brand new, pedal from Ford. I delete the fault codes and everything is fine for about 24hrs, and then it’s back on again, reduced power and same code Ahhhhhhh! 

 Any help would be greatly appreciated. 🙏

 

what app/program are you scanning it with, generic OBD readers only see some of the codes. if the power train light is coming on then its possible there will be a code that you cant see with a generic reader and the throttle/pedal position sensor/switch E circuit error could be a damaged wire somewhere.

Thanks for your message bud, my old reader was a little cheap number, The one I have now is a Topdon Artidiag 600s 

The cheap one wasn’t picking anything up, even with the power train light on. My Topdon is finding the fault, Throttle Pedal position / Switch E circuit error. I’ve cleared the codes and then a few hours later it’s back with the same code reading 😥

 

If your Code Reader allows you to read Live Data for the Pedal then it would be a good Idea to connect it up and wiggle the associated Wires and Connectors to see if one or both the Tracks gives a duff reading when doing so.

If that does not show anything then driving while logging the Live Data might give some clues. 

Cheers for your message, It does do live data, but I’m not sure what I’m looking for in terms of readings? It has 2 settings for throttle position reading 1 & 2 and the readings do show movement, but I’m not sure If they are good or bad readings, still learning to use this new reader lol 

6 minutes ago, Smithy7861 said:

Cheers for your message, It does do live data, but I’m not sure what I’m looking for in terms of readings? It has 2 settings for throttle position reading 1 & 2 and the readings do show movement, but I’m not sure If they are good or bad readings, still learning to use this new reader lol 

There should be readings for the Accelerator Pedal and the Throttle, which is on the Inlet Manifold. 

Both these things usually have two Tracks that are either opposite each other i.e. one might show 5 Volts when fully open and 0.5 when closed, the other one will be the opposite or work on a different slope. If they don't correlate to what is expected then a Fault Code will be logged, but I would expect a different one to the one that you have.

Your Fault Code suggests a Wiring Fault or faulty Processer in one of the units, unlikely if they have been replaced. If the Live Readings disappear when wiggling the Wiring then that suggests that the Wiring is broken beneath the outer Insulation or a Connector is duff.

What the readings actually are is not important.

Thanks bud, I’ll hook it up in the morning and mess about with the pedal connector and wiring and see if the readings fluctuate 👍

I’ve checked the connectors this morning and didn’t see any corrosion, loose connections or pins! I’m dropping it off to an auto spark in the morning to do a thorough check and live read of the throttle.

What I did notice when I was checking the connectors and cleaning grounds was a missing reverse light switch! Someone removed the switch and replaced it with a nut, it was covered in oil, am I right in thinking gear oil has leaked / Has been leaking? Could this be what causing the issue? Or am I miles off because it’s coming up with a P2125 code (Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor / Switch E circuit error) 

Can you post a picture?  The switches can blow apart and leave an open nut type thing screwed into the hole.  I can't imagine why anyone would purposely replace the switch with a nut though.  Unlikely to be connected to the TPS issue.

52 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Can you post a picture?  The switches can blow apart and leave an open nut type thing screwed into the hole.  I can't imagine why anyone would purposely replace the switch with a nut though.  Unlikely to be connected to the TPS issue.

The 2nd pic is we’re the switch should be as you mostly like know, the 1st pic is what I noticed is on mines…..a closed nut replacing the switch housing, I double checked to see if my reverse light was working and, yup nothing. 

How odd!

Think I'd call a closed nut a 'bolt' lol.  But as it's closed, that shouldn't be affecting anything mechanically.  That small amount of fluid spattering is very little in reality, just looks worse than it is.

I guess it's possible that the PCM takes a reverse input from the sensor and could be getting confused without one when you reverse.  It's also possible that the switch wiring is shorting out somewhere making the car think you're in reverse when you aren't.

Obviously the sensor needs to be reinstated for your reverse lights anyway, so it will be interesting to see if that has any effect on the initial fault.

Lol your right it’s a bolt lol I just did a live data reading on the throttle position sensors, limp mode and transmission light was on ( nothing new there ) and sensor 2 was sitting at a zero reading for a good bit, switched the car off and on, limp mode and light gone…. ( does this, dips in and out of limp mode when car is warmed up )  sensor 2 started to show a reading 🤪 took it for a spin and ping pong back again, read the live data and both sensors showing data… my car is possessed. 

Looks like pedal wiring in that case.  Check the pins in the plug are tight if not done already.

That’s the next step bud, checking pins and connectors tomorrow 👌 much appreciated for yours and everyone else’s input, I’m learning loads from you all, I’m starting to think I’ve got a real interest in auto electrics. 😁

Electronic Accelerator Pedals are very sensitive for safety reasons and manufacturers often state that if the Connectors have been removed more than a certain number of times, ten I think,  then they should be scrapped.

The other thing you need to bear in mind is that both Tracks of the Accelerator Pedal will connect separately to the PCM, so a Wiring or Connector fault may not be at the Pedal. 

You have got to wonder why someone removed the Reverse Switch and where the wiring is now, I presume the car may have suffered from some Electrical gremlins in the past. 

If you want to fix the Oil leak either with the Bolt or a new switch then wrap the threads with a little bit of Plumbers PTFE Tape.  

The wiring is there with the connector, it was tucked up under the throttle body, I just never noticed when I changed the throttle body, ordered a new switch. It’s going to an auto spark tomorrow morning, I’ll mention both tracks of the pedal to them 👍 cheers Tizer much appreciated, I’ll update when I get it back 😰

Quick update: 

Taken the car up-to a recommended auto spark today, told him all the symptoms and the points everyone that has mentioned in this post, ( thanks again) he pulled out all these gadgets and 10mins later came back with 2 points, 1: it’s a wire to the ECU or 2: it’s the ECU! 
 

ECU is going to get tested as it’s the easiest of the two to rule out, if all good, then it’s a wire from the pedal to the ECU and he will work back the way. 
 

This is goings to cost me a few Bob isn’t it? 😱

10 hours ago, Smithy7861 said:

This is goings to cost me a few Bob isn’t it?

Spend a few Bob now and buy a good bottle of malt whisky, it won't help fix the car but it will ease the pain when you get the bill 😉

5 hours ago, unofix said:

Spend a few Bob now and buy a good bottle of malt whisky, it won't help fix the car but it will ease the pain when you get the bill 😉

I’m already on it bud, the Mrs bought me a bottle 😥

Hello Everyone. 

Im facing same issue on my S-max 2.0 duratourq. 

What was the trouble in the end?
Regards Lars

Given that there hasn't been a post from the original poster updating us with an outcome and that user's profile is no longer registered on this site, I don't fancy your chances of getting an answer to your question.