Hi, I'm hoping someone can shed some light on my sons broken down Fiesta please?

Car was running fine & he pulled up to a junction, the S/S kicked in as it should but when he went to pull away the car wouldn restart & came up with an error saying Immobiliser malfunction, Service now, if you click ok it then comes up with Power steering malfunction, again with Service now, car wont crank.

AA towed him home but before that the diagnostics were plugged in but no codes were shown.

I checked all fuses under the bonnet, I was hoping fuse 27 had blown as I've seen other people mention this but it was ok, I checked the others & fuse 16 (15A) was blown, this relates to 'Powertrain control module, high & low cooling fan', I replaced the fuse but the replacement blew again.

The cars battery is 2 months old & has good voltage, it's a proper AGM S/S one.

Car is a 2014 Fiesta 1.0L

Any help apprecited please.




 

AGM battery on a 2014 Fiesta?  

Should be an EFB I think. 

2 hours ago, Lazymogs said:

it's a proper AGM S/S one

Wrong battery as Tom has already said. Should be EFB, there is no charging profile stored for an AGM battery type on a 2014 Fiesta

2 hours ago, Lazymogs said:

I checked the others & fuse 16 (15A) was blown,

Doesn't say very much about the AA roadside assistance if they didn't check the fuses. Not that I expect that would have made much difference as far as getting the car started and home again.

2 hours ago, Lazymogs said:

AA towed him home but before that the diagnostics were plugged in but no codes were shown

For the car to have flagged the "Service Now" fault warning then a DTC will have been logged. The use of generic code readers (even the expensive one's) mostly do not read the Ford specific diagnostic trouble codes. You need to use FORScan to be able to read all the codes on both the high speed and medium speed canbus systems.

My apologies re the battery type, I'd made an assumption that all S/S batteries were AGM (I hadn't been & actually checked the battery), the new battery is indeed an EFB one

19 hours ago, Lazymogs said:

I checked all fuses under the bonnet, I was hoping fuse 27 had blown as I've seen other people mention this but it was ok, I checked the others & fuse 16 (15A) was blown, this relates to 'Powertrain control module, high & low cooling fan', I replaced the fuse but the replacement blew again.

That's a slightly confusing fuse label.  It won't cover the actual fan motor at such low amps.  Think I'd try unplugging the fan module, leave it unplugged then fit a new fuse and see if it blows.  It 'may' be required for something in the PCM but that's just a semi-educated guess at this point.

Thank you Tom & Unofix

A bit of an update, I purchased new 15A fuses & replaced Fuse 16 again with a brand new one (the 15A one I used originally I temporarily borrowed from Fuse 23's location relating to front fog lights as I didnt have any Micro fuses to hand at the time), the new Fuse isnt blowing & I was able to 'Ok' the Immobiliser fault on the console & there's no no faults showing 👍 , however the car won't crank still?

Could it just be down to a faulty starter motor now? or maybe does the immobilisor need a re-learn process?, I did try both keys we have for the car

If it's still showing an immobiliser fault with ignition on then it won't crank. 

If they're keyless fobs, try putting one in the 'emergency position'.  That over-rides the fob radio signals and uses a conventional chip instead.

39 minutes ago, Lazymogs said:

I was able to 'Ok' the Immobiliser fault on the console & there's no no faults showing 👍

Clicking "OK" only removes the warning from been displayed. It does not clear the fault and so the immobiliser will still be actively preventing the vehicle from cranking and starting.

Tom, no faults/errors showing on car anymore since fuse replaced & immobiliser error ok'd on dash plus it's not returned since.

The keys are traditional type coupled with an an ignition barrel, everything looks like it should but still no crank, it's like the immobilisor isnt recognising the two keys or the starter is duff, this situation occurred with car not starting again when it should after a S/S activation at a junction.

@unofix ah, ok, this sounds like the issue potentially 🤞, can this can be cleared with FORScan if I purchase a recommended OBD reader & install the software to a laptop?, sorry, I've no experience with this software.

Is FORScan freeware or licenceable please?

Hi Tony,

You can get FORScan free for use on a laptop, you can even get the extended licence for free (not sure how long these days, possibly 2 months?).

Use the vLinker FS cable to connect between your windows laptop and the car OBDII port.

FORScan: https://forscan.org/download.html

vLinker FS cable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

8 minutes ago, Lazymogs said:

can this can be cleared with FORScan

Yes, you can clear all the DTC's using FORScan.

After clearing the codes if any return then they will be the active faults.

Cable ordered & will be here tomorrow, as I happens I'm off work tomorrow so can have a go at this.

Thank you for the support here, I will reply back & let you know how it all goes

 

Lead arrived, FORScan configured with the 2 month extended licence etc but the car is not looking good, FORScan mostly can't connect to the car & when it does it comes up with the below in the attached picture, I'm think I'm out of options for self-repair now sadly 😕

Anyone know of a Ford independant garage or even better a mobile Ford specialist in Poole, Dorset area or is this one for a main dealer?

Oh & the original immobiliser/steering errors are coming up on the console again, the fuse hasnt blown again though.

I tried yesterday disconnecting the battery for 15 mins but it didn't make any difference.

 

 

Just a quick question. What is the battery voltage at now ?

Have you used a multimeter and measured the resistance of both canbus networks at the OBDII port. They both should be 60 Ohms

@unofix The battery is at 12.85v, I wouldn't know what pins to check within the OBD port I'm afraid, I'm now back at work today so we're going to call out someone as I've now gone as far as I'm comortable to, will let you know what he eventual outcome is.

 

 

OBDII port pinout

On 11/6/2023 at 9:25 PM, unofix said:

Just a quick question. What is the battery voltage at now ?

Have you used a multimeter and measured the resistance of both canbus networks at the OBDII port. They both should be 60 Ohms

Just measured & it's 61.2 Ohms

I've now disconnected the battery until tomorrow evening when I can next look at this, prior to battery disconnection FORScan could not connect to the car, in fact it only did once I believe, long enough to read & save a profile, earlier this evening I tried this pulling Fuse 16 in case the module it's providing power for was putting noise on the Canbus, doing this didn't make any difference.

Auto electrician booked & is coming on the 22nd Nov which was the earliest mutually convenient date, I will of course provide any update after the event

Hi Lazymogs, 

I have exactly the same pattern of issues with my 2014 Fiesta. I have tried a range of fixes already and a new key also but I daren't try and pair it until we get the fault sorted. Did you ever manage to resolve your problems?

Thanks

2 hours ago, Robbo185 said:

Hi Lazymogs, 

Don't expect an answer.....

Just a thought  if you are new to Forscan the problem may be that the laptop has set up the scanner cable to the wrong Com port that the program is looking at. 

On the Laptop look under device manager at com ports and see which com port it is using for the scanner. then when you start  Forscan look to see if the com port is the same, if its not then change to to the correct one.