11 hours ago, unofix said:

You say that you don't have one ?

I do. I got confused if it was a remote start thing or just the thing that opens the doors. This is an easy fit, but what worries me is the door circuit one. Could it be related to the low battery?

14 hours ago, MK2.5Hippo said:

My next projects are...figuring out why my windscreen wipers don't spray great on the front and nothing at all in the back. 

The filter on the washer pump is probably clogged with sludge.  Need to remove the pump from the bottle to clean it.

5 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

The filter on the washer pump is probably clogged with sludge.  Need to remove the pump from the bottle to clean it.

Saw a video about using safety pins in the nozzles first, then i'll go for the dis-assembly. Thank you for your comment. After this radio fiasco, I'm trying to do easy first, then ripping apart second. 

cars build up a dangerous (for health) sludge and slime at the bottom of the washer bottle - the best bit is you get to atomise and breathe it in with the windscreen washers (nice), Legionella for tea

if you can hear the pump you have a chance - it shouldn't be the nozzels -

FIY - if its a petrol cut a hole in one corner of the top of a 5ltr ice cream carton lid - make the size of the oil filler hole (not the cap - use this to hold on the car) - and fit on top of the engine so it allows the rain water that goes past the drivers washer jet to drain off the back of the engine, rather than fill the void hidden with the spark plugs - it'll stop a misfire and killing the coil pack as fast as they designed it to go

theres a filter in the bottom of the bottle. Mine was like concrete, hit it with a hammer to break it up and returned the pump for a refund

 

16 hours ago, Jimpster said:

theres a filter in the bottom of the bottle. Mine was like concrete, hit it with a hammer to break it up and returned the pump for a refund

 

sounds like the pump is my next project 

22 hours ago, Botus said:

cars build up a dangerous (for health) sludge and slime at the bottom of the washer bottle - the best bit is you get to atomise and breathe it in with the windscreen washers (nice), Legionella for tea

if you can hear the pump you have a chance - it shouldn't be the nozzels -

FIY - if its a petrol cut a hole in one corner of the top of a 5ltr ice cream carton lid - make the size of the oil filler hole (not the cap - use this to hold on the car) - and fit on top of the engine so it allows the rain water that goes past the drivers washer jet to drain off the back of the engine, rather than fill the void hidden with the spark plugs - it'll stop a misfire and killing the coil pack as fast as they designed it to go

i have noticed a little leak under the sprayers. one isn't seated well and has a perpetual hole

 

yes it's a 1.6L petrol Style trim level 

don't bother fighting the appalling design - go ice cream lid - OR if you fancy wasting 30 quid go on ebay and BUY the Volvo cover that Ford accountants never bothered to fit

 

 

4 minutes ago, Botus said:

don't bother fighting the appalling design - go ice cream lid - OR if you fancy wasting 30 quid go on ebay and BUY the Volvo cover that Ford accountants never bothered to fit

plus if i use the ice cream lid, it won't say Volvo on it. I can write FORD in black marker on the lid. 

Mr Whippy lol

On 1/30/2024 at 10:40 AM, MK2.5Hippo said:

This is the one I ended up with that solved it (for the most part). 

https://www.incarmusic.co.uk/seat-skoda-vw-car-stereo-iso-wiring-lead-with-canbus-ignition-supply.html

 

This is the one that came with the first radio and I couldn't figure out how to re-wire it to make it work

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adapter-Android-Standard-Steering-Control/dp/B08GH69KPT/ref=asc_df_B08GH69KPT/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=463119490023&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17848992280701132917&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046133&hvtargid=pla-995999688856&psc=1&mcid=0f8616afc0033a22b0f8095a758aa2b8

 

They're not completely correct, so for anyone else, dont use this as a buying guide, but note CANBUS adapter vs no adapter. I think you are correct though, I'm not using the CANBUS on this one, but it works. When I do use the CANBUS adapter, the radio won't shut off, but it and the CANBUS are having a lively discussion because the dash won't turn off. I'm hoping that with the ELM tool, I can see what they're talking about and hopefully shut it down.

I want to try to do this thing completely if I can. 

Don't want to hijack the thread, but I have an issue that is eerily similar with a 2008 mk2.5 (1.8 Petrol).

Did your radio come with ISO connectors, or did you use a combination of the two to get from quadlock to 16 pin - which is what most Android radios seem to come with.

My radio came with no canbus, since it's not needed for steering controls - and it works fine in terms of turning on and off. It also appears to drop to 0 Amps drain when ACC is off (with a plug in fuse reader). However, with it plugged in, there is a noticeable voltage drop overnight - to the point where it won't start after < 2 days.

If I unplug the radio, the drain doesn't seem to appear.

I bought a cheap replacement loom with a canbus (mainly to get the reversing signal easily) - which also works, but has a constant drain of around 20mA when on - unfortunately the common online trick of cutting power to it won't work as the loom only has Batt+ on it, and relies on the canbus box being present to provide ACC+ to the radio.

However, 20mA should not be enough to drain the battery that quickly according to my calculations (more like weeks).

The battery is a Yuasa 60Ah, new in November last year when I bought the car - and appears to charge fine - though I have not yet had it tested with a proper machine. 

 I did have a previous Android radio installed which did run it down flat, so it's possible the battery has been compromised, but it does still seem to work perfectly.

So my theories are either

1. The battery is bad and a small drain is causing voltage drop too quickly

2. Something else in the car is upset that the radio isn't installed and is keeping the car awake - or waking intermittently to find it's lost friend

 

From my searches so far and common causes:

The dash display does go off correctly when locked

There is no bluetooth module that I can see (the original radio had phone buttons but they only muted the radio)

Unit is set to turn off not sleep - and seemingly does so.

I can find no other significant drain (LED USB charger plugged in was adding about 20mA)

The main difference between the looms that I can see is that the original (non canbus) one has pins for ILL and for Alarm sense, though I'm not sure the latter is needed and might be part of the issue.

 

While testing for drain, I was able to notice a point where there was >300mA drain while the unit was "off" - but it was not consistent. Plugging in the fuse tester does consistently cause a current draw as the circuit "wakes up", though this drops to 0 again fairly soon. 

That suggests that something else is waking up (or the unit is taking some draw even when 'off' - Though the circuit involved (Fuse 107) is marked as "Instrument cluster battery supply, on-board diagnostics", so presumably is also powering something else too?.

 

So any thoughts or ideas welcome.

Current thoughts are that I might install a switch on the Batt+ line to the unit to turn it off properly and see if that works, though I wonder if it is an external unit that won't change things.

Any idea if the alarm sense wire should be left or disconnected, or has no impact?

Supplemental question - is there an easy to find reversing signal wire in the front dash? Haynes wiring diagram is not brilliant and I'm not confident I can trace the right wire by colour alone in the main loom. I have an estate so running a wire from the reverse lights to the numberplate light camera I've installed is a pain. The canbus box resolves that issue, but adds the 20mA constant draw (though not if I put a switch in).

 

 

 

 

The Canbus loom has only Batt+ from the quadlock, which it routes to the canbus box, which then provides ACC to the unit, as well as ILL

Pic of original loom attached. With it in, and using a plug in current tester in the fuse for Batt+ feed to audio, it drops to 0 when the unit is switched off.