Please find attached my first FORScan and then another scan after DTCs have been cleared (none come back, but slowly I've seen some come back like U1900 and P170A).

 

200224 1ST FAULT SCAN.txt200224 2ND FAULT SCAN.txt

Most of those codes are caused by the famous Focus cluster solder issues, which looks like has been fixed but the codes weren't cleared

@DaveT70 is this when the solder fails and causes / creates poor connections? I should probably have read up on this....is there anywhere I can go to have a look?

Also noted that the screen display in the middle of the instrument cluster isn't that great appears like grainy / lines running down it.....still readable, but appears to flicker a bit when you look at it for a while.

Yes buddy, all those codes pointed to that fault, especially the "theft detected" one

Display is going down, you ca get them changed, I believe

1 hour ago, willdudeuk said:

is there anywhere I can go to have a look?

You can get your instrument cluster repaired/refurbished for less than £90. Just have a search on eBay or @rd457 offers a repair service.

More info here...

 

5 hours ago, willdudeuk said:

@DaveT70 is this when the solder fails and causes / creates poor connections? I should probably have read up on this....is there anywhere I can go to have a look?

Also noted that the screen display in the middle of the instrument cluster isn't that great appears like grainy / lines running down it.....still readable, but appears to flicker a bit when you look at it for a while.

Here's my service, you can read about it in the listing description: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314393033915

Displays do sometimes fail and need replacing. I always source genuine replacements from used instrument clusters for sale on ebay.

@rd457 thanks so much I will check it out.. do you reckon my cluster is suffering from dry / failed solder joints? The screen could definitely do with replacing I think as isn’t great. I’ll upload a picture. 
 

It ok to contact you on here via private message or should I just post on here?

1 hour ago, willdudeuk said:

do you reckon my cluster is suffering from dry / failed solder joints?

Very likely yes. Being a 2008 I'm not certain whether you have an original Mk2 or a facelift one, they have very different clusters. The facelift one is the one I repair cracked joints on the most. When it comes to the original Mk2, there are six different similar variants of cluster models that I collectively refer to as 'type 2', four of which suffer from this problem and two do not. The ones that do are those that I repair second most frequently. I don't have a perfect understanding of which type 2 variants appear in exactly which vehicle models, so if you have a 'type 2' then please check which specific variant you have against the second to last photo in the ebay listing. (A-D are affected, E-F are not).

The presence of both theft detected and U1900 are both good signs that cracked cluster joints are the cause.

1 hour ago, willdudeuk said:

The screen could definitely do with replacing I think as isn’t great.

Okay but please note that it typically costs about £50 to get a donor instrument cluster to obtain a replacement from. I don't charge any extra labour to simply swap one in at the same time as doing the resoldering.

1 hour ago, willdudeuk said:

It ok to contact you on here via private message or should I just post on here?

Sure, you can just keep posting here, or PM me here or on ebay, whatever you like.

Regarding the LCD, I'll add that I do sometimes encounter facelift ones with lines. Fixing the solder joints does not improve this. It's possible that the flickering could be the cluster's solder joints, or the LCD itself, I can't be certain. Lines don't really count as a broken LCD. If we found a donor cluster to obtain a replacement LCD from, we'd probably have to ask the seller if the LCD is working, I don't know if they'd know for certain if it had any lines to it or not so there could be a risk that the replacement also has lines. If the cost does not put you off and you want to go ahead with finding a replacement, that's fine, totally up to you, but it may not be worth it or make any improvement. I normally only replacement them when they've gone completely or partially dead. If it wasn't for your mentioning of the occasional flicker, which could possibly be it failing, I'd say don't bother.