So I know this topic is covered a lot in this Forum and have had a good read.

I've got issues with the bonnet hood lock / release.

Doesn't want to open when turn the key to the left to unlock without some gentle bonnet persuasion (gently press down on it).

Then turn the key to the right and try lift the bonnet to unlatch it....takes many attempts of flipping they key left and right until eventually it opens.

 

I've now removed the bonnet locking mechanism which appears to operate fine. You can lock and unlock, latch and unlatch with no issue using a screwdriver after removing the white plastic (+ cross section) adapter.

So I've determined the issue is with the bowden cable / white moulding / lock barrel part of the system.

 

After lots of fiddling it appears that there isn't enough engagement between the + cross section adapter bit and the female part it goes into on the bowden cable side of the asssembly. Not sure why?

Anyone got any tips for sorting this?

 

Is it simply buy a new lock and bowden cable / locking barrel assembly?

There seems to be a lot of cheap aftermarket ones....

 

But is there any recommendations rather than forking out for an OEM / Ford Original part as some expense.

Get in touch.

 

Thank you 

If you have a large and very long Screwdriver or can make something up then ditch the Bowden Cable and lock and carry your Tool of choice in the car.

No worries @Tizer I shall take that advice on board....

Though is it not an MOT fail?

 

I've also done some further reading and seen that people have modified the + cross section part by removing the "wedges" by filing or cutting them off?

12 minutes ago, willdudeuk said:

No worries @Tizer I shall take that advice on board....

Though is it not an MOT fail?

 

I've also done some further reading and seen that people have modified the + cross section part by removing the "wedges" by filing or cutting them off?

I hadn't thought of that and I'm not sure if it is a MOT fail or not if you tell the Tester how to open it first.

You can buy a Longer Cross Piece without the wedges although in this case it seems to be the Bowden Cable that is giving you problems.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283777867648

I would lubricate the Lock with real oil just now until you decide what to do.

Thanks for the link @Tizer was trying to find one of these earlier...

Looks like a job for the 3D printer!

I work in Engineering so can probably design one myself and get it printed for free.

 

I am not sure if it's the bowden cable or the adapter.

 

All I know is that when I don't have the bowden cable attached and operate it with a screwdriver it closes, locks and unlocks, opens fine....

It does feel slightly stiff / resistance but think that is just the springs inside the locking mechanism.

 

I can also see the cross section adapter move when I operate the lock in the barrel and watch the operating end but perhaps it isn't moving enough....

Does the bowden cable wear at one end and not provide enough rotational movement?

21 minutes ago, willdudeuk said:

Does the bowden cable wear at one end and not provide enough rotational movement?

I don't know for sure but the metal is bound to stretch over time and that coupled with a Lock Mechanism that has hardly been lubricated is bound to cause problems. 

I believe that you can get Solid Cables mechanisms but I don't think they are very good and from what I have read on here the aftermarket parts do not last long.

Thanks @Tizer

When you say lubricate the lock with "real oil" what do you mean?
 

And where should this be applied?

34 minutes ago, willdudeuk said:

Thanks @Tizer

When you say lubricate the lock with "real oil" what do you mean?
 

And where should this be applied?

What I mean is not WD 40 or the like because they are essentially penetrating oils and will evaporate and leave a residue behind.  If the lock has never been lubricated then I might use them first to clean things up before using Oil for lubrication.

I use my Oil Can and squirt it wherever I can, work the mechanism open and closed with a Screwdriver and keep lubricating over a period of days if necessary.

Yes, it's an MOT fail, tester needs to open bonnet as per manufacture procedure. You can't 'fix' it. Don't buy cheap Chinese replacements on Ebay, they last a few months at best. I'm now on my 4th lock, with current one being a genuine Ford one from a breaker, has lasted so far almost 2 years! Only downside is I have 2 x keys, one for bonnet and one for car. I did buy one of those locks where you can build the cylinder to accept your original key - it lasted 3 x months...

If you get a genuine Ford one you can use your old Lock Barrel in it with the original key, I don't know if that will work with aftermarket ones.

49 minutes ago, Tizer said:

If you get a genuine Ford one you can use your old Lock Barrel in it with the original key, I don't know if that will work with aftermarket ones.

I never knew that, how exactly is that done?

@StephenFord I think you can drill and remove the pins that hold the barrel in the end of the bowden cable mating part.

1 hour ago, StephenFord said:

I never knew that, how exactly is that done?

Have a look at this video from 2.00 minutes on. I did not watch all of it but from memory I just knocked the pins out with a small Drift., I guess it may be more difficult if you don't have suitable tools.

That was a new Ford one and the old one was a Ford one as well.

https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=Ford+bonnet+release+lock+barrel&mid=E2853C34DD63913D13C7E2853C34DD63913D13C7&FORM=VIRE

 

 

8 minutes ago, willdudeuk said:

@StephenFord I think you can drill and remove the pins that hold the barrel in the end of the bowden cable mating part.

From memory you don't need to drill them if you have a suitably sized Drift to knock them out.

Just now, Tizer said:

From memory you don't need to drill them if you have a suitably sized Drift to knock them out.

mmm... now, if only I knew what a 'Drift' was LOL

5 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

mmm... now, if only I knew what a 'Drift' was LOL

It's just another name for a Punch. Here is a good quality purpose made set but any thin cylindrical piece of metal with the right diameter will do.  I sometimes forget that not everyone has built up a large tool set over the years.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305260376787?itmmeta=01HSGH63Q6KH0XSX7GXA7AGCHD&hash=item4712efb2d3:g:xM8AAOSwHcdlTLkL

2 minutes ago, Tizer said:

It's just another name for a Punch. Here is a good quality purpose made set but any thin cylindrical piece of metal with the right diameter will do.  I sometimes forget that not everyone has built up a large tool set over the years.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305260376787?itmmeta=01HSGH63Q6KH0XSX7GXA7AGCHD&hash=item4712efb2d3:g:xM8AAOSwHcdlTLkL

I wish I had kept my original faulty lock so that in future, I could change the barrel over as I'm sure it'll go again at some stage...