willdudeuk Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 Hi, Looking for some advice. The rear knocking sounds has come back again after replacing the 2 x ARB links and the LHS / Nearside Rear Suspension Top Mount. I got the front and rear corners up and checked each one but can't detect where the knocking is coming from or see any damage or broken parts? The only way I can replicate it is when it's on wheels and laden with it's own weight and rock the car from the boot trim on the RHS. Sometimes I can hear the knocking sound. Was hoping it would be the RHS / Offside Rear Suspension Top Mount but it appears solid (but didn't remove it to fully check?). Any ideas? Can't see any broken coil springs? Even gave the exhaust a good joggle around and that didn't make the sound. Could it be a a rear drum brake pad that has sheared from the lining? I did rotate the wheels and couldn't hear anything rattling around. When driving the car it is clearly audible over bumps and appears to be coming from the rear right corner behind the rear seats. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 Loose or broken exhaust hanger allowing part of the exhaust to knock against the bodywork ? Get hold of the end of the exhaust tail pipe and give it a good shake about and see if you can hear anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willdudeuk Posted May 23 Author Share Posted May 23 Morning @unofix I did try giving it good shake about but couldn't hear anything.... I shall try again. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willdudeuk Posted May 23 Author Share Posted May 23 If not that what else should I be looking for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 Not something silly like the seatbelt knocking the C pillar trim? Or rear seat back not fully secured after laying flat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willdudeuk Posted May 23 Author Share Posted May 23 @TomsFocus good shout..... The rear RH seatbelt was sitting high and on the plastic near C pillar trim...so maybe...need to do a test drive. Rear Seats are fully secured have unlatched and latched them again to be sure they are locked into place. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bar72 Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 check anti roll bar link on driver side hasn't went through the lower control arm, the rear one. mine's just went with corrosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenFord Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 2 hours ago, willdudeuk said: Was hoping it would be the RHS / Offside Rear Suspension Top Mount but it appears solid (but didn't remove it to fully check?). When driving the car it is clearly audible over bumps and appears to be coming from the rear right corner behind the rear seats. Was there a reason you didn't replace both at the same time? Stands to reason if one has failed, the other won't be far behind... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willdudeuk Posted May 23 Author Share Posted May 23 I will be very honest I was in a rush to get somewhere and didn't really have the right kit for the job so was a long and arduous pain the neck of a job....and didn't fancy doing the other side. SHAME on me. I do need to check if it is the problem when I get chance after work. @Bar72 I shall check for corrosion and see if it has broken through but I did have a look earlier and both ARB droplinks looked good and secure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willdudeuk Posted May 31 Author Share Posted May 31 Still haven't determined the knocking.....it's not the exhaust, it's not the rear top strut mounts....starting to think it's maybe the rear O/S drum brake? Need to remove to see if the brake lining has come away from the backing. I did sping it round when jacked up but couldn't replicate the sound. Anyone else got some useful advice as to what to do? Shouldn't be the rear anti-roll bar drop links either as both are brand new but guess it could be another failure mode potentially. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted May 31 Share Posted May 31 Are the drop links fully tightened? Ball joints need to be counterheld to stop them spinning when tightening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeLongman Posted May 31 Share Posted May 31 Hey mate. I recently identified a knocking noise on my mk1 2000 focus after months of thinking is was suspension related. It may sound strange but it turns out it was where the rear seats locked into the car with that hoop latch (whatever it's called!). There was just some play which needed to be removed. Any larger bump or harsh corner made the noise but it wasn't suspension related at all! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willdudeuk Posted May 31 Author Share Posted May 31 @TomsFocus - yes I definitely counter held the ARB droplinks when tightening up the nuts so I don't think it's those but I shall doublecheck. @JoeLongman - don't think I have an issue with the rear seats latching them appear secure and not rattling. The knocking is definitely something from underneath the vehicle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willdudeuk Posted May 31 Author Share Posted May 31 *UPDATE* - it was one of the droplinks (near side) that was loose. Only noticeable when I got the crowbar in there to wiggle things around. Have tightened it up and now no more noise / rattle after going for a quick test run. But it concerns me it has worked it’s way loose or perhaps wasn’t tight enough to begin with (but didn’t detect the noise straight away as it has occurred over time). What’s the torque and angle spec for this joint please? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenFord Posted May 31 Share Posted May 31 5 hours ago, TomsFocus said: Are the drop links fully tightened? Ball joints need to be counterheld to stop them spinning when tightening. Tom strikes again, a perfect remote diagnosis. He should enter the 1% club! 😂 3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted May 31 Share Posted May 31 4 hours ago, willdudeuk said: But it concerns me it has worked it’s way loose or perhaps wasn’t tight enough to begin with (but didn’t detect the noise straight away as it has occurred over time). What’s the torque and angle spec for this joint please? I don't have access to reliable torque specs now unfortunately. There won't be an angle spec as it's not a stretch bolt. Just a Nm spec. (Probably around 50Nm.) Torque alone doesn't prevent vibration from loosening nuts though. For that we can use a nyloc nut, or an oval lock nut, and if you don't have either of those, then a smear of threadlock on the bolt threads works just as well. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bar72 Posted June 4 Share Posted June 4 Vehicles with solid stabilizer bar link: 25Nm Vehicles with ball joint stabilizer bar link: 48Nm 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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