Hello

My car is a ford focus 2016 1.5 tdci powershift.

Today i started the car as normal, it said Hill start assist not available followed by transmission limited check manual then the engine light came on.

I switched the ignition off then back on the light went so I drove it as normal no problem, stopped at the shop started the car and on the way home same lights came back on and thr car felt like it was going crazy, engine revs so High, Gears are slipping, so I thought I will try to restart but the light didn't go away, managed just to drive home slowly trying to control the gears changing manually + -, I checked the fault codes with icarsoft diagnostic, it came 3 codes.

P0700 transmission control system Mil request. 

P2598, p2563, p0045 all to do with the turbo

Car regularly serviced, new start stop battery exactly a year a go, and transmission oil and filter less that a year and done under 20k miles.

Anyone had similar issues to mine?

Thanks

 

 

Check the State Of Charge of you car battery with a multimeter one hour after parking it. I think you will find your battery is low and needs replaced or at least charged for a minimum of 12 hours.

7 minutes ago, unofix said:

Check the State Of Charge of you car battery with a multimeter one hour after parking it. I think you will find your battery is low and needs replaced or at least charged for a minimum of 12 hours.

Thanks, actually it has been parking now just over an hour, I will check it now and report back.

Thanks

13 minutes ago, unofix said:

Check the State Of Charge of you car battery with a multimeter one hour after parking it. I think you will find your battery is low and needs replaced or at least charged for a minimum of 12 hours.

Just checked it now mate, it is 12.57V

1 minute ago, Remon23 said:

Just checked it now mate, it is 12.57V

Well 12.57V is excellent and also a little confusing since normally the car can only charge the battery to  12.42V. Your car may just be old enough to be before the crazy charge limit was introduced.

The DTC's that you posted above what did you read them with ?

4 minutes ago, unofix said:

Well 12.57V is excellent and also a little confusing since normally the car can only charge the battery to  12.42V. Your car may just be old enough to be before the crazy charge limit was introduced.

The DTC's that you posted above what did you read them with ?

Car is on 66 plate , I hope I am testing it right 😬 

1 minute ago, Remon23 said:

Car is on 66 plate , I hope I am testing it righ

Yes that looks totally correct 👍

25 minutes ago, unofix said:

Yes that looks totally correct 👍

Wish it was as easy as changing the battery, thanks anyway 

A little update, today I managed to get another diagnostic done to the car, the code that coming ot is p0045 which is something to do with the turbo boost solenoid, the question is if the turbo boost gone wrong, can this have straight effect on the auto transmission, it feels like it slipping gears it will go on drive as normal then the rpm will rise alot before the transmission catch with it.

4 hours ago, Remon23 said:

it feels like it slipping gears it will go on drive as normal then the rpm will rise alot before the transmission catch with it.

I very much doubt that a turbo fault would cause that kind of issue with the auto transmission. Perhaps @DaveT70 might have some idea. I personally think this is a voltage issue of some kind.

Update

I have ordered a new turbo boost solenoid from amazon yesterday, it arrived today, went to the car to change it, while I am trying to unplug the vac pipes I noticed the wires on the plug as you can see on the photos broken, not sure if this what causing all this hassle to the car or it is just part of the problem but anyway it will need fixing.

Any idea how to get this wiring repaired? Or if I want to get a new plug I am not sure what size would it be?

Thanks in advance 

That's an annoying break, so close to the plug.  The plug itself is probably fine.  So just need a couple of short sections of wire made up with plug pins on one end and then soldered into the car loom.  Best left to an auto-electrician.

Hi, I have the exact same problem. Did fixing this break fix the problem? 
 

Many thanks

connor

5 hours ago, Connor9 said:

I have the exact same problem

So you have exactly the same connector broken in exactly the same position, that's extremely bad luck 🤔

Not exactly the same, but same engine faults and behaviour. 
 

I have spent over 5k trying to put this right and no one can help. 
 

new gearbox , turbo , battery , alternator. 
 

wondering if it’s a electrical problem 

Burn it

On 7/17/2024 at 2:43 PM, Connor9 said:

Not exactly the same, but same engine faults and behaviour. 
 

I have spent over 5k trying to put this right and no one can help. 
 

new gearbox , turbo , battery , alternator. 
 

wondering if it’s a electrical problem 

Resolve this problem?

Dear God that's unbelievable what's went wrong with it,

Difficult situation you're in,

Personally I'd trade it in irrespective of how much U had to put into it,

Similar situation with my mates insignia,

Engine,then gearbox again,

Keys just fell apart aswell,

Timing belt went- garaged for 6 months and 2 weeks,

Mechanic who sold it to him just gave up ,

Eventually we brought it to another fella,

He had it 2 days and declared it' needed another engine,timing belt,w pump etc etc,

Couldn't afford to carry on anymore so he sold it for parts- e300 is what he got😞

Borrowed from the credit union last month and bought a Skoda superb estate,high mileage but full Service history,t belt done,

What happened to U happened to him with 2 cars including the insignia,other one was rover 750 or such,

And he ploughed money into that for 2 years before scrapping it,

Think he's eventually learned the hard way,

To cut your losses while U can