For DTC P0810 - Clutch position sensor

I will follow the 2 videos below (on clutch actuator motor brush issue) to have a check if the issue is due to clutch actuator motor brush.

 

 

6 hours ago, Dan62 said:

The clutch position sensor (Hall sensor) is part of the clutch motor that drives the hydraulic master cylinder, it is integral to the TCU
FYI see link for repair info.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282098161144?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Yy0G2IxdQ_e&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=aPfTNc76RVC&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thanks - Dan.

I found a few youtube videos on clutch actuator motor brush issues leading to DTC code P0810. I will follow them to check if this is the issue for my car. Previously I prepared 10 carbon brushes following the videos.

After the check,  if it is not the motor brush issue, I will send it to the ebay service as you recommended. Thanks.

I've seen comments about replacing the brushes but never seen videos, well done for finding them.
So far I've only had to do the shift actuator 'fix' on mine.

Good luck with the brushes, wonder if that will be my next job?

A quick update:

Yesterday morning I could not start the car with dash message 'transmission malfunction' as expected, following the 1st video,  I used a hammer to hit clutch actuator motor body a few times gentally, then car started as normal with no error messages. 

Since then car started as normal in mornings and afternoons. Thus, it possibly is due to clutch actuator motor issues as shown in the videos.

When next time I can not start the car with the same dashboard message, I will remove clutch actuator from car and check motor brushes.

I will use the 1st video method to remove since doing this way doesn't need bleeding after.

A disaster when I did the work:

1. It was smooth in removing clutch actuator from car. Just took 3 crews.
         

2. Open motor cover, one brush is with a gap, which might be the issue for not starting with 'Transmission Malfunction' board message.

3. Broke the tongue plastic piece as shown below, no problem.

 

4. After removing the tongue, we can see the Copper brush holder, on the top of the holder there are two curved edges to hold one spring, the spring then touch and push the brush. I could not find a way to take the whole holder out. Thus, I bended the copper curved edges to let the spring and brush out of the holder.

5. Prepared the new brushes with right sizes and insert the copper holder, then add the spring, last step to close the curved edges to stop/hold the spring. Disaster happend here: the curved copper edges broke, thus, the spring + new brush can NOT be held in place ...

6. Tomorrow I will call ford dealer, if they have such copper brush holder (I guess they do not ) ... 

Any comments/suggestions are highly appreciated! Thanks.

 

29 minutes ago, ford2188 said:

Tomorrow I will call ford dealer, if they have such copper brush holder

Wasting your time, they won't even know what you want.

The brush is Carbon, not Copper.

Have a look online for a "Motor Rewind" company, they will be able to repair it, if you haven't caused too much damage.

Examples of rewind companies:

https://jhirst.co.uk/

https://www.beatson.co.uk/electric-motors/rewinds/

https://www.gwpotts.co.uk/

5 minutes ago, unofix said:

Wasting your time, they won't even know what you want.

The brush is Carbon, not Copper.

Have a look online for a "Motor Rewind" company, they will be able to repair it, if you haven't caused too much damage.

Examples of rewind companies:

https://jhirst.co.uk/

https://www.beatson.co.uk/electric-motors/rewinds/

https://www.gwpotts.co.uk/

Many thanks for your comments and suggestions - unofix. 

On 7/7/2024 at 10:37 PM, ford2188 said:

A disaster when I did the work:

1. It was smooth in removing clutch actuator from car. Just took 3 crews.
         

2. Open motor cover, one brush is with a gap, which might be the issue for not starting with 'Transmission Malfunction' board message.

3. Broke the tongue plastic piece as shown below, no problem.

 

4. After removing the tongue, we can see the Copper brush holder, on the top of the holder there are two curved edges to hold one spring, the spring then touch and push the brush. I could not find a way to take the whole holder out. Thus, I bended the copper curved edges to let the spring and brush out of the holder.

5. Prepared the new brushes with right sizes and insert the copper holder, then add the spring, last step to close the curved edges to stop/hold the spring. Disaster happend here: the curved copper edges broke, thus, the spring + new brush can NOT be held in place ...

6. Tomorrow I will call ford dealer, if they have such copper brush holder (I guess they do not ) ... 

Any comments/suggestions are highly appreciated! Thanks.

 

Did you find a solution?

6 hours ago, Dan62 said:

Did you find a solution?

Thanks - Dan.

This is still in process ...

So far:

- I brought the clutch actuator to my nearby garage for a test. The garage people helped me test the motor but motor did not move at all.

- Then I tried to send the actuator to the ebay repair service you recommended but unfortuately the ebay business man is on holidy until next month.

- I managed to find a second ebay ECU repair service A, and then sent the actuator. But unfortunately, they told me that the actuator is unrepairable (motor damaged, not moving) and sent back to me (I guess this is because I changed the motor brushes, so I made a mess and possibly damaged the motor by myself ... who knows).

- Then I tried to search internet to buy a used one or rebuilt one. In ebay, I found a ebay seller B. I phoned B who told me that I still can send the faulty one to them and they can help check (though I did tell them that service A has already tested the actuator to be unrepairable) because service B has spare sub components like motors available for repair and they are more prefessional in such repairs; if they can not repair/rebuild, they will sell another rebuilt one to me requiring re programming. 

- 20 minutes ago, service B called me that my actutor now was rebuilt/repaired and it should work properly now with lifetime warranty. I made the payment, which is higher than service A.

- The repaired actuator is expected to be back to me tomorrow or Thursday. They told me that I just need to refix to the car, no need reprogramming becasue it is still the orignal one with original codes.

- when I receive it, I will have a test and update here.

Thanks.

 

 

A further update:

Yesterday I received the remanufactured clutch actuator (kept original data, so no need reprogramming).

This evening I got time to install it to car. Since i did not disconnect any fluid pipes, I didn't do clutch bleeding. 

The car started as normal. Changing gears no problems. Just came back from ~half an hour test driving. The car working ok but I can feel some differences compared to previous drinking - hard to tell what are the exact differences.

Hopefully it works okay for some time. The remanufactured actuator is with life time warranty but dealing with such things takes a lot of time...

The repair service I used is really good https://www.atcdrivetrain.co.uk/p/ford-fusion-transmission-ecu/ford-fusion-transmission-ecu-easytronic-6.html or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181700660903?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=q-mHtLIiSbW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Banwe7XkRbS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

They're very patient and nice to communicate with me by phone and emails, though my English is quite poor.

The cost is £234 + £30 (post cost to the two repair service companies).

The first repair service company did full refund since they diagnosed as unrepairable, but I did not expect this since they helped test and should make a charge. 

Mine is also currently doing this it won't start and says transmission malfunction and the brake pedal is stiff.

10 hours ago, leanne0987 said:

Mine is also currently doing this it won't start and says transmission malfunction and the brake pedal is stiff.

Get yourself set up with FORScan and read the codes