Current owner of a 2007 1.6 TDCi focus, noticed that the odometer was omitting digits from the display (e.g, 100.000 miles was now displayed as 00.000) as if the displayed message had shifted, it eventually went blank. Disconnected the negative terminal of the battery for around 10 minutes and reconnected it, solved the issue for around 2 hours. Just wandering where to go from here?

3 hours ago, DuraTorq. said:

solved the issue for around 2 hours.

After two hours blank again?

9 hours ago, DuraTorq. said:

Current owner of a 2007 1.6 TDCi focus, noticed that the odometer was omitting digits from the display (e.g, 100.000 miles was now displayed as 00.000) as if the displayed message had shifted, it eventually went blank. Disconnected the negative terminal of the battery for around 10 minutes and reconnected it, solved the issue for around 2 hours. Just wandering where to go from here?

Could be one of 2 things.

1) You could have a faulty digital display

2) More likely, your instrument cluster needs a re soldering repair. Cars of your vintage Ford used lead free solder to save the planet, fine for a time but over a long period it deteriorates to the the extent that it causes numerous electrical gremlins. I got my own repaired a while back from Hobson electronics in Dungannon who I highly recommend. There are numerous places doing this repair but I wanted to keep my cluster on the island! (I noted your location) They have a very quick turnaround, next day repair if posted so you won't be without your car for too long. From memory it was about £80.

If you need advice on cluster removal, post back here, it looks daunting but I'm an eejit and managed it, held on by 2 x screws!

14 hours ago, Bol said:

After two hours blank again?

Yes blank again. Have left the car locked since around the time of the original post, going to see if that has acted in the same way as disconnecting the battery and possibly has brought the display back (for now at least)

8 hours ago, StephenFord said:

Could be one of 2 things.

1) You could have a faulty digital display

2) More likely, your instrument cluster needs a re soldering repair. Cars of your vintage Ford used lead free solder to save the planet, fine for a time but over a long period it deteriorates to the the extent that it causes numerous electrical gremlins. I got my own repaired a while back from Hobson electronics in Dungannon who I highly recommend. There are numerous places doing this repair but I wanted to keep my cluster on the island! (I noted your location) They have a very quick turnaround, next day repair if posted so you won't be without your car for too long. From memory it was about £80.

If you need advice on cluster removal, post back here, it looks daunting but I'm an eejit and managed it, held on by 2 x screws!

I’ll have to take it out to get a look at it soon, the display has always been corrupted in some way since I got the car, the top line of the display never displayed text correctly, however the bottom line of the display was fine. I’m thinking that it is the solder deteriorating as mentioned in your reply, I’ll get a look at the solder and if it’s beyond me then I’ll definitely send it to who you recommended. Thank you for your response and help.

16 hours ago, DuraTorq. said:

I’ll have to take it out to get a look at it soon, the display has always been corrupted in some way since I got the car, the top line of the display never displayed text correctly, however the bottom line of the display was fine. I’m thinking that it is the solder deteriorating as mentioned in your reply, I’ll get a look at the solder and if it’s beyond me then I’ll definitely send it to who you recommended. Thank you for your response and help.

Just a heads up, even 'faulty' solder can rarely be detected with the naked eye, you'll need microscopic help. Even if you give that place a phone call and discuss with Derek the symptoms, I'm sure he'll set your mind at rest. Remember to report back here and let us know the conclusion.

36 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

Just a heads up, even 'faulty' solder can rarely be detected with the naked eye, you'll need microscopic help. Even if you give that place a phone call and discuss with Derek the symptoms, I'm sure he'll set your mind at rest. Remember tor report back here and let us know the conclusion.

I was planning on checking with a multimeter just to confirm continuity, I’ll try ringing and let you know how it goes.

15 hours ago, DuraTorq. said:

Yes blank again. Have left the car locked since around the time of the original post, going to see if that has acted in the same way as disconnecting the battery and possibly has brought the display back (for now at least)

Quick follow up, leaving it locked for a few hours did bring the display back but incorrectly again. Picture added for reference

The LCD screen is knackered.  Will still need to go to a repairer for a replacement screen unless you can solder well yourself.

As already said, the instrument cluster needs to be professionally refurbished.

9 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

The LCD screen is knackered.  Will still need to go to a repairer for a replacement screen unless you can solder well yourself.

 

9 hours ago, unofix said:

As already said, the instrument cluster needs to be professionally refurbished.

Is it a tough soldering job? Trying to keep costs low but if needs be then I’ll have it done professionally

2 minutes ago, DuraTorq. said:

 

Is it a tough soldering job? Trying to keep costs low but if needs be then I’ll have it done professionally

There's a guy on here that does the repair as a business sideline. @rd457 If he pops along he may offer some specific advice. However, I would recommend 'professional' intervention on this repair. Not only are there numerous joints to re flow and re solder, those that know also have the specific testing jigs to ensure the repairs are done thoroughly...

4 minutes ago, DuraTorq. said:

Is it a tough soldering job?

It's not a 10 minute job. All the old solder needs to be removed first. @rd457 can probably give you a full explanation.

Here's my service if you want to use it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314393033915

Attached is an example of the set of connector pins where the cracks occur (after repair). You ideally want the old solder removed and replaced with fresh standard (60/40) solder (as opposed to just reheating the old crack prone lead-free stuff) for it to last as long as possible, as I do with my standard service. If you're not experienced at doing soldering, it's very easy to mess it up. I've lost count of how many cases of failed DIY I've had to put right.

As said above, you'll almost certainly need a replacement LCD to fix the glitchyness. You can't buy new replacements, you'll need to scavenge one from another used unit. They typically cost about £50 to obtain. You need to be careful to get a matching green LCD one, there are green with black text and red with white text variants. I don't charge anything extra to swap in a replacement if I'm already doing re-soldering work, you just need to pay for the unit the replacement will be taken from. Note that you can't just swap in another used unit, you'd need it reprogrammed.