25 minutes ago, bartjla said:

Just finished spraying contact cleaner on all the connectors but no abnormal things were seen here. 

 

Would like to hear further troubleshooting I can do before the second key arrives. 

Have you fixed the cluster?

9 minutes ago, DaveT70 said:

Have you fixed the cluster?

Yes I paid 120 euro to get it fixed.

Did you ever sort the cam bus resistance values?

read from the obd port with the ic in circuit should be 60 ohms.

with the cluster unplugged, should be 120 ohms .

was the cluster resoldered and checked by a reliable company?

just my thoughts

1 hour ago, bartjla said:

I paid 120 euro to get it fixed.

I never knew Cumbria was in the EU

35 minutes ago, RL123 said:

Did you ever sort the cam bus resistance values?

read from the obd port with the ic in circuit should be 60 ohms.

with the cluster unplugged, should be 120 ohms .

was the cluster resoldered and checked by a reliable company?

just my thoughts

IC values are correct, just like you said. 

 

Cluster has been done by a reliable company with 2 years warranty.

32 minutes ago, mjt said:

I never knew Cumbria was in the EU

Guess we all learn something new each day.. (Im not from Cumbria though)

My cluster was refurbished/resoldered with a lifetime warranty but think they’ve reduced new work to 10 yrs.

have no new suggestions appart from damage to the plug at the cluster or perhaps some damage shorting the pins on the ic board (cluster repairer should have rectified but damage may have been done elsewhere)

1 hour ago, RL123 said:

My cluster was refurbished/resoldered with a lifetime warranty but think they’ve reduced new work to 10 yrs.

have no new suggestions appart from damage to the plug at the cluster or perhaps some damage shorting the pins on the ic board (cluster repairer should have rectified but damage may have been done elsewhere)

I've actually wasted another 50 quid on a part-out focus with same IC pn. Also no result. I think we can rule out the IC problem to be honest. 

 

If the spare key doesn't fix it I'm honestly thinking about scrapping it ...

Fingers crossed the spare key solves it.

Recheck fuse 68 is good and that you have 12v on it with key in position 1 & 2. Probe the pins either side of the fuse rating to measure voltage!
If above is good check for 12v on IC connector pin 15 (yellow/Blue wire)
Put original cluster back in

16 hours ago, bartjla said:

I've actually wasted another 50 quid on a part-out focus with same IC pn. Also no result.

It definitely won't start with a second hand cluster in

I believe it wouldn’t without cloning to your original cluster first.

On 10/22/2024 at 11:29 AM, Dan62 said:

Recheck fuse 68 is good and that you have 12v on it with key in position 1 & 2. Probe the pins either side of the fuse rating to measure voltage!
If above is good check for 12v on IC connector pin 15 (yellow/Blue wire)
Put original cluster back in

Thanks for the input.

 

-I pulled fuse 68 and put the multimeter to work. It indeed is 12v. Fuse 68 is 7.5 amps.

 

-To measure the pins from the IC connector I used 2 paper clips and put them in pin 15 and pin 16. It was also 12v. Assuming I did the tests correctly, do you have anything else I could check?

I was looking for something that related to both the radio and the IC. fuse 68 does that.

Just had another quick look at the diagrams, can you confirm the rear window wiper, front cigar lighter and heated rear window work?

Update:

The garage ''cloned'' the old key so the second key couldn't be programmed. 

 

Called an ECU-expert and got quoted 125 quid ex vat for a key with an unique code so it can be programmed. Would that be worth it for a ford focus 2006 with 218000 miles and fender damage?

16 minutes ago, bartjla said:

Called an ECU-expert and got quoted 125 quid ex vat for a key with an unique code so it can be programmed. Would that be worth it for a ford focus 2006 with 218000 miles and fender damage?

That depends on what you're going to do with the car if it works.

If you intend to keep it as a runaround for dump trips etc then I'd say £125 is worth it.  If you're just going to sell it to WBAC for £200 then it's not worth it.

2 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

That depends on what you're going to do with the car if it works.

If you intend to keep it as a runaround for dump trips etc then I'd say £125 is worth it.  If you're just going to sell it to WBAC for £200 then it's not worth it.

The thing is, I'm still not sure if the car will work if I get the extra key programmed. It's a tough decision. 

On 10/28/2024 at 1:18 PM, bartjla said:

The garage ''cloned'' the old key so the second key couldn't be programmed. 

Ughh, I should have remembered to warn about that nasty method. Almost all key cutting outfits use it, since it is easy, and does not need re-programming, unless of course it does!

A lot of Ebay sellers used to supply keys with PATS capsules that could, in principle be cut and programmed, but most seem to have gone now. I have found this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392457595569

I think the 80 bit one is correct, and it says it covers the Mk2 range. If you can remove the capsule from one of your cloned pair, you could tape the new capsule to a key without one, to test it. I suspect only one capsule can be in range of the transponder - (it is a very short range system using near field RF), more than one would confuse it.

Others on this site have more experience with it than me, and may be able to confirm the PATS capsule type.

I assume that you tried to use forscan, and it worked, recogising a key, but then gave a "need 2nd different key", or something like that, error. That implies the whole system is working, if it can get as far as trying to read a 2nd transponder chip.