Hello All,

I am having some issues with my 2008 Fiesta starting. It seems to be the immobilizer that's failing. Every now and again, when trying to start, it won’t crank over. I hear a bleep, and the red light flashes quickly. If I get out of the car, lock it, and unlock it a few times, the car eventually starts, but only after repeating this process multiple times.

I’ve removed the cluster, and all the pins look OK. The battery is fully charged, and the connections are tight. When I leave the red light flashing, I get a code of 6.

My questions are:

If I change the cluster, do I need to program anything?

If I change the ECU, will it require programming?

If I replace all components (ECU, cluster, key sensor) from a known working car, will anything still need programming?

This does sound like the cluster, just because the soldered joints may look good doesn’t mean they are, they really need to have the old solder removed and then resoldered. There are plenty companies offering this service on eBay and also someone on here. Much easier than replacing the cluster.

It could be the PATS ring going down by the ignition switch or the transponder in the key going down too.

Have you got another key? If so, see if it does it with that, if it does then check the receiver by the ignition switch

2 hours ago, steve14 said:

If I change the cluster, do I need to program anything?

YES

2 hours ago, steve14 said:

If I change the ECU, will it require programming?

YES

2 hours ago, steve14 said:

If I replace all components (ECU, cluster, key sensor) from a known working car, will anything still need programming?

YES

If you put a used PATS ring on the ignition that won't need programming

1 hour ago, DaveT70 said:

If you put a used PATS ring on the ignition that won't need programming

You're right Dave. It's about the only thing that doesn't need any programming. 👍

Of course the OP will have to come back and read the replies 🤣

OK thanks for the relys, seems anything I change will need to be programed. I thought the ECU, Cluster are programmed together so if taken from another car with keys would not need any programming.

What are people using to reprogram these. If the software expensive. I am waying up if its worth trying to fix or scrap. 

 

Can all be done using FORScan (download for free) and a vLinker FS lead

On 4/7/2024 at 8:59 PM, unofix said:

FORScan (for use with Windows Laptop) : https://forscan.org/download.html

It's what many Ford owners use including some Ford technicians.

vLinker FS, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

vLinker FD, for android phone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H82WC8L

vLinker FD+, for iPhone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H8JHWP2

 

Search Tag:   FORScan123

 

Great thanks I might as well get this and give it a go. Will have to do some research first on the software

 

The immobilizer flash code is 2 digit repeating code, the first digit being either a 1 or 2
If you have the correct code it will tell you the same thing Forscan would.
 

PATS Diagnostic Trouble Code.pdf

Hi Dan, thanks, I am sure it was 1 - 6. I will recheck later but with the PDF you posted this looks like  the following:

CAN communication link between the PCM and instrument cluster, vehicle does not start

I will check all connections and earth first. But can you tell me where the PCM is located and what it stands for

PCM=ECU located in front of the battery.

It's looking suspiciously like the instrument cluster solders have gone down

I'd totally agree with Dave. On a 2007 Fiesta the fault(s) are almost surely going to be dry/cracked solder joints on the IC board.

@rd457 can probably advise further.

OK I will have a look at this as well thanks

1 hour ago, steve14 said:

OK I will have a look at this as well thanks

I would, before you start buying parts, as the code is telling you COMMS between the cluster and PCM

A good start would be to  buy a multimeter and measure the canbus resistance to check that the termination resistance is good: 2 terminating resistances in parallel will measure approx 60 Ohms. 

There's a a good youtube demo of this on fault finding a canbus fault on a Ford. 

The Fiestas tend to have 26-pin connectors which are unaffected by the cracked solder joint problem. (Joints being slightly larger might have something to do with why).