Hello,

I have an instrument cluster (restyling version) installed in my Ford Focus MK2.5. I had to replace the original cluster due to numerous faults. The new cluster works perfectly, but I’ve noticed that when I turn on the low beam headlights, the brightness of the cluster screen doesn’t dim. This is a bit annoying when driving at night.

Could this issue be resolved with a firmware update? On my previous cluster (also a restyling version), this dimming functionality worked as expected, but it’s missing on the current one.

Is it possible to configure this setting using ELMConfig or Forscan?

Thank you in advance for your help!

some models have a rheostat on the light switch to adjust interior illumination where you want it - I wonder if there is a service menu tick box that selects between adjustable and just dim with lights

that said when I fitted auto-lights on hers - we added the rheostat and it just works with the later set up changing radio and cluster illumination

Is it just the LCD screen that isn’t altering brightness or the back lighting for the dials also?

Cluster backlighting is fed directly from the main headlamp switch going through the problematic connector known for the solder joints getting cranky over time. 
 

If thumping the dash makes it come on again that’s a common sign. Just hopefully it won’t disturb other joints at the same time 😕

Page 73 on schematics shown as ICL pin 9 on C809 which is the cluster connector

 

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3 hours ago, Botus said:

Algunos modelos tienen un reóstato en el interruptor de luz para ajustar la iluminación interior donde lo desee. Me pregunto si hay una casilla de verificación del menú de servicio que seleccione entre ajustable y solo atenuar con luces.

Dicho esto, cuando instalé las luces automáticas en ella, agregamos el reóstato y simplemente funciona con la configuración posterior cambiando la radio y la iluminación del grupo.

 

1 hour ago, troy45 said:

¿Es solo la pantalla LCD la que no altera el brillo o también la iluminación de fondo de los diales?

La retroiluminación del grupo se alimenta directamente desde el interruptor principal del faro pasando por el conector problemático conocido por las juntas de soldadura que se ponen irritables con el tiempo. 
 

Si al golpear el tablero se vuelve a encender, es una señal común. Solo espero que no afecte a otras articulaciones al mismo tiempo 😕

Página 73 en esquemas mostrados como pin 9 de ICL en C809, que es el conector del grupo

 

 

Hello everyone,

First of all, thank you very much for your responses. To make things a bit clearer, I’m going to share two videos to better explain my issue.

Video showing my instrument cluster and the problem I’m experiencing:

 

A YouTube video showing how it should work (minute 0:46):

 

As you can see in the second YouTube video, when the low beams are turned on, the illumination of the LCD screen instrument cluster screen dims. This is very useful, especially during long night drives.

I installed the instrument cluster a few days ago and made sure it’s properly connected. Everything else works perfectly fine.

That’s why I’m wondering if it could be a firmware issue.

Thank you again for your attention and help!

As an extra check, if you adjust the dimmer on the headlamp switch does the cluster backlighting go bright and dim in line with the rest of the backlighting on heated screen buttons etc?

Pretty sure the cluster lighting defaults to bright with headlamps off then when you turn lamps on it gets a feed through the dimmer switch and switches over to that. 
 

Annoyingly on the ST they didn’t copy that setup over to the extra gauge pod so it’s not lit at all until you put headlights on 🙄

43 minutes ago, troy45 said:

As an extra check, if you adjust the dimmer on the headlamp switch does the cluster backlighting go bright and dim in line with the rest of the backlighting on heated screen buttons etc?

Pretty sure the cluster lighting defaults to bright with headlamps off then when you turn lamps on it gets a feed through the dimmer switch and switches over to that. 
 

Annoyingly on the ST they didn’t copy that setup over to the extra gauge pod so it’s not lit at all until you put headlights on 🙄

 

Hello troy45,

What exactly do you mean by headlight intensity regulator?

This is my headlight switch:

 

With the previous instrument cluster I had (the same model, but with a red LCD screen), when I turned on the parking lights or low beams, the brightness of the LCD screen on the cluster would already dim. Everything else (radio illumination, climate control, power windows) works just as it always has.

Thank you very much for your interest and help 😊.

I see the confusion now - my Focus has this extra control on the switch to adjust the backlight dimming

Thought it was standard but obviously not. 
 

Still I think the same connection would go from the headlight switch to the cluster for when the lamps were switched on and the cluster switch to a dimmer lighting setting. Could be backed up if you were to look at the wiring plug and see if pin 9 was populated in the connector. Or by tapping the cluster to see if it changes, indicating a solder issue on the pins which is quite common. My car it affected one of the fog light LED connections first. 
 

Another thought, unlikely but possible that Ford matched specs of clusters to the different models which did or get the light dimming feature and your updated cluster is from higher spec model so the dimming functions don’t match up but I’m thinking this would add unnecessary complexity to building the different specs

18 hours ago, Botus said:

some models have a rheostat on the light switch to adjust interior illumination where you want it - I wonder if there is a service menu tick box that selects between adjustable and just dim with lights

that said when I fitted auto-lights on hers - we added the rheostat and it just works with the later set up changing radio and cluster illumination

wow I never wrote this hours ago did I

 

Hace 4 horas, troy45 dijo:

Ahora veo la confusión: mi Focus tiene este control adicional en el interruptor para ajustar la atenuación de la luz de fondo.

Pensé que era estándar pero obviamente no lo es. 
 

Aún así, creo que la misma conexión iría desde el interruptor de los faros delanteros al grupo de instrumentos para cuando se encendieran las luces y el grupo de instrumentos cambiara a una configuración de iluminación más tenue. Se podría hacer una copia de seguridad si miras el enchufe del cableado y vieras si el pin 9 estaba ocupado en el conector. O tocar el grupo de instrumentos para ver si cambia, lo que indica un problema de soldadura en los pinos, lo cual es bastante común. En mi auto, afectó primero a una de las conexiones del LED de la luz antiniebla. 
 

Otro pensamiento, poco probable pero posible, es que Ford haya hecho coincidir las especificaciones de los grupos con los diferentes modelos, lo que hizo o que obtuvo la función de atenuación de luz y su grupo actualizado sea de un modelo de determinación más alta, por lo que las funciones de atenuación no coinciden, pero creo que esto agregaría una complejidad innecesaria a la construcción de las diferentes especificaciones.

 

Muchas gracias, voy a checar lo que comentas, es posible que por desconectar y volver a conectar varias veces el cuadro de instrumentos, haya dañado el pin 9, como me indicas.

Además, he notado que aparece el siguiente error en el modo PRUEBA:

 

Por cierto, me disculpo por mi inglés. Sé que es bastante malo.

4 hours ago, troy45 said:

I see the confusion now - my Focus has this extra control on the switch to adjust the backlight dimming

Thought it was standard but obviously not. 
 

Still I think the same connection would go from the headlight switch to the cluster for when the lamps were switched on and the cluster switch to a dimmer lighting setting. Could be backed up if you were to look at the wiring plug and see if pin 9 was populated in the connector. Or by tapping the cluster to see if it changes, indicating a solder issue on the pins which is quite common. My car it affected one of the fog light LED connections first. 
 

Another thought, unlikely but possible that Ford matched specs of clusters to the different models which did or get the light dimming feature and your updated cluster is from higher spec model so the dimming functions don’t match up but I’m thinking this would add unnecessary complexity to building the different specs

 

Thank you very much. I will check what you mentioned. It's possible that by disconnecting and reconnecting the instrument panel several times, I may have damaged pin 9, as you indicated.

Additionally, I’ve noticed that the following error appears in TEST mode:

 

By the way, I apologize for my English. I know it’s quite bad.

If your car hasn't got the dimmer switch you can swap it for one that does, no wiring modifications needed.

I did this on my mk2 and it works fine.

Make sure it's one from a focus or cmax as the mondeo one looks the same but won't fit into the same hole (too wide).

10 hours ago, enrikeco7 said:

By the way, I apologize for my English. I know it’s quite bad.

Your English is fine, much better than my Spanish or Portuguese would ever be 👍

On 6/12/2024 at 11:21, Stoney871 said:

Si su automóvil no tiene el interruptor de regulación de intensidad, puede cambiarlo por uno que sí lo tenga, sin necesidad de realizar modificaciones en el cableado.

Hice esto en mi mk2 y funciona bien.

Asegúrate de que sea de un Focus o Cmax, ya que el del Mondeo parece igual, pero no encaja en el mismo agujero (es demasiado ancho).

I have bought this light switch:

 

When it arrives and I install it, I will let you know if I have solved the problem 👍🏻.

Fitting tips-

You need to pull back some of the door rubber seal and unclip the trim under the dash.

Reach up behind the switch so you can depress the tabs on the switch.

Push the switch out and the connector easily pulls out.

On 12/6/2024 at 10:21 AM, Stoney871 said:

If your car hasn't got the dimmer switch you can swap it for one that does, no wiring modifications needed.

I'm on board LOL So, if I buy the following, I can simply swap switch over with my 'non cluster dimming' one??

Mk2 lighting switch...

This may be of use to you, a guide I made a while back.

Guide to fitting a Light Switch unit with a dimmer(1).pdf

1 minute ago, StephenFord said:

I'm on board LOL So, if I buy the following, I can simply swap switch over with my 'non cluster dimming' one??

Mk2 lighting switch...

Yes

2 hours ago, StephenFord said:

, I can simply swap switch over with my 'non cluster dimming' one??

Yes, but .......

Does your car have auto-headlights because that eBay switch is for a car with auto lights?

This is for manual switched headlights:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363700153595?

2 minutes ago, unofix said:

Yes, but .......

Does your car have auto-headlights because that eBay switch is for a car with auto lights.

🤣🤣  I bought it, then realised just that! Luckily, the seller is a sterling bloke and agreed immediately to cancel the purchase due to my stupidity. Funnily enough, Ebay doesn't supply a category of simply being 'stupid' to claim a cancellation.  I've already got my refund!

8 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

Ebay doesn't supply a category of simply being 'stupid' to claim a cancellation.

Well at least you can have another go. See the link I posted above

 

EDIT:

Just found an Australian version for only £9.99 🤣🤣

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185821820417?

5 minutes ago, unofix said:

Well at least you can have another go. See the link I posted above

Crikey, that's the same seller I just cancelled on 😂

3 hours ago, Stoney871 said:

Fitting tips-

You need to pull back some of the door rubber seal and unclip the trim under the dash.

Reach up behind the switch so you can depress the tabs on the switch.

Push the switch out and the connector easily pulls out.

 

 

Good morning.

I have already installed the lighting module with the dimmer, and this has solved my problem.

Thank you very much to everyone.

Result 👍