Hi all again,

Wondering if you guys could shed some light. I very recently changed my discs and pads as they were both in a very sad condition. When clamping back the second front brake, I noticed a little overflow of fluid out of the brake reservoir as id expected. Thereafter I sucked up some of the funky old green brake fluid and and topped it up with new Dot4.

Since then I’ve noticed the pedal is not as firm as it used to be although still works perfect fine. 

The pedal is somewhat soft to foot, although I’m not sure if I’m being over sensitive here. With heavy footing the brake pedal will reach the floor, with the engine off it will stiffen straight up.

There are no hose leaks anywhere and my next point of call is to bleed the brakes. I can do this manually, but would rather bleed the air on the brakes which I believe the correct way is the ForScan ABS bleed function. 

I rigged up my laptop to ForScan and connected to my Bluetooth ODB2 on the WiFi. It all connected fine, but popped up this message and I’m unable to see any of the service functions. I only have access to a couple errors codes which I will clear and a PCM reset. 

 

Unsure if I need a better/suitable ODB2 or if there may be a way around this. The one I’ve got currently is only a cheap one. 
 

 

Any ideas and harsh criticism are welcome 

 

The message is self explanatory, you need one of the recommended Adaptors.

 Download FORScan

Also as a general bit of advice I would strongly recommend clamping the Flexible Brake Hose when pushing Pistons back and opening the Bleed Valve with a One Man Brake Bleeder on the Bleed Valve. This can prevent damage the the Master Cylinder Seals.

Suggest cable rather than Bluetooth to ensure you can do everything possible with Forscan from your laptop?

Plus, as per @Tizer if you clamp hose(s) if a problem remains, it may help to isolate any issues such as air in calipers or other mechanical issue at the specific wheel(s)

Always suggest a proper hydraulic hose clamp or at the very least, very well protected Mole grips or similar to avoid any risk of damage.

Use the Windows Laptop version of FORScan with a cable if you want to carry out brake service.

If you are just wanting to do diagnostics then you can use the phone version of FORScan with a dongle.

On 4/7/2024 at 8:59 PM, unofix said:

FORScan (for use with Windows Laptop) : https://forscan.org/download.html

It's what many Ford owners use including some Ford technicians.

• vLinker FS, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

OR

• OBDLINK EX, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/OBDLINK-EX-FORScan-OBD-Adapter/dp/B081VQVD3F/ref=sr_1_5

For diagnostic use only:

• vLinker FD, for android phone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H82WC8L
• vLinker FD+, for iPhone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H8JHWP2

 

Search Tag:   FORScan123

 

@Tizer @Shearers @unofix

Thanks for all the info lads, I just ordered myself the Vlinker and will connect it to my windows laptop to do the ABS bleed. 

I’ve since been in the car a couple times, and the brake stiffens well before the floor, when judging the height while the clutch is depressed. I think I may just be a little over sensitive, given the safety implications. 

I will bleed the ABS using the Vlink when it arrives and will let you know how it goes and if there’s any changes in the brakes after. 

An in future clamp the brake hose off and open the bleed valve on the calliper when pushing the piston back! Duly noted

On 4/3/2025 at 2:55 PM, EastLondonLiving said:

@Tizer @Shearers @unofix

Thanks for all the info lads, I just ordered myself the Vlinker and will connect it to my windows laptop to do the ABS bleed. 

I’ve since been in the car a couple times, and the brake stiffens well before the floor, when judging the height while the clutch is depressed. I think I may just be a little over sensitive, given the safety implications. 

I will bleed the ABS using the Vlink when it arrives and will let you know how it goes and if there’s any changes in the brakes after. 

An in future clamp the brake hose off and open the bleed valve on the calliper when pushing the piston back! Duly noted

By way of an update, wheel nuts have been a pain in the a***, finally got them all off and changed for new “19mm”!!! ones in the end. 
 

Managed to crack all the bleed valves nicely with some penetrating spray, a wire brush, many light taps with a hammer, and a T-bar socket adapter thing with the universal spinny connection, the valves were 9mm at the front and 7mm at the back. I used a 6 point socket to crack them loose, then nipped up, until the ABS service bleed on FORScan says to crack it back open. Reopened with a 7mm/9mm spanner. 
 

I didn’t have the option to select and individual hose or part replacement in the ABS service bleed function, after clicking play it jumps straight into, open front two bleed valves, attach container, press ok and follow instructions. 
 

Had my bleed bottles at the ready, new brake fluid ready to go. FORScan asked I open the front two bleed valves first, then the rear two last. After selecting ABS service bleed  as instructed on FORScan I cracked open the front two valves and depressed and released the brake pedal as instructed on screen. Half way between presses an the pedal would become stiff about midway while the car made a sound an I believe the ABS does its thing, after the sound stops the pedal will fully depress to the floor, followed by the instruction on screen to release the pedal. This was repeated on the front two wheels, I believe around 8-10 times, before the instruction to close the front bleed valves and practically repeat the same with the rear two.

Here comes the kicker! Half way through, because I thought I’d do two wheels at a time on jacks. By the time it took me to replace the front wheels and jack up and remove the rear two wheels, my plan took a nosedive, when I clicked ok to continue the bleed with the rear wheels and about two cycles in, the process registered as “interrupted” on ForScan. I had a jump start power bank connected to the battery, but I think it has an auto off of some sort. Very annoying I was unable to complete the bleed, and did not have enough Dot4 to restart the process again.

I assume due to the battery loss ForScan was unable to complete the process, giving the “interrupted” report on the log. After this happened I closed the rear two bleed valves, replaced the brake fluid cap, started the engine and depressed the pedal to assess the situation. Pedal to the floor, no resistance, big “ooofffffffffffff”.
 

By this point I had turned the ignition off and back on to turn the engine over but lo and behold dead battery. Without disconnecting from ForScan, as I now know I should do. Checked my little jumper starter pack connected to the battery (which I did pre- ABS service bleed) and it was off, but with a decent enough charge. 

By this point I put the wheel backs on the car, headbutted the pavement, prayed to the lord, locked the doors and removed the battery for a charge. Will be back at it again the weekend. Wish me luck! 

Whilst  I know the "service bleed" process has reasons behind it, I confess I have replaced the brake fluid every two years or so without using it. This keeps it simple.
I refer again to my clamp each flexi hose comment to see if it is a general issue or related to one wheel (or more)?

19 hours ago, EastLondonLiving said:

By way of an update, wheel nuts have been a pain in the a***, finally got them all off and changed for new “19mm”!!! ones in the end. 
 

Managed to crack all the bleed valves nicely with some penetrating spray, a wire brush, many light taps with a hammer, and a T-bar socket adapter thing with the universal spinny connection, the valves were 9mm at the front and 7mm at the back. I used a 6 point socket to crack them loose, then nipped up, until the ABS service bleed on FORScan says to crack it back open. Reopened with a 7mm/9mm spanner. 
 

I didn’t have the option to select and individual hose or part replacement in the ABS service bleed function, after clicking play it jumps straight into, open front two bleed valves, attach container, press ok and follow instructions. 
 

Had my bleed bottles at the ready, new brake fluid ready to go. FORScan asked I open the front two bleed valves first, then the rear two last. After selecting ABS service bleed  as instructed on FORScan I cracked open the front two valves and depressed and released the brake pedal as instructed on screen. Half way between presses an the pedal would become stiff about midway while the car made a sound an I believe the ABS does its thing, after the sound stops the pedal will fully depress to the floor, followed by the instruction on screen to release the pedal. This was repeated on the front two wheels, I believe around 8-10 times, before the instruction to close the front bleed valves and practically repeat the same with the rear two.

Here comes the kicker! Half way through, because I thought I’d do two wheels at a time on jacks. By the time it took me to replace the front wheels and jack up and remove the rear two wheels, my plan took a nosedive, when I clicked ok to continue the bleed with the rear wheels and about two cycles in, the process registered as “interrupted” on ForScan. I had a jump start power bank connected to the battery, but I think it has an auto off of some sort. Very annoying I was unable to complete the bleed, and did not have enough Dot4 to restart the process again.

I assume due to the battery loss ForScan was unable to complete the process, giving the “interrupted” report on the log. After this happened I closed the rear two bleed valves, replaced the brake fluid cap, started the engine and depressed the pedal to assess the situation. Pedal to the floor, no resistance, big “ooofffffffffffff”.
 

By this point I had turned the ignition off and back on to turn the engine over but lo and behold dead battery. Without disconnecting from ForScan, as I now know I should do. Checked my little jumper starter pack connected to the battery (which I did pre- ABS service bleed) and it was off, but with a decent enough charge. 

By this point I put the wheel backs on the car, headbutted the pavement, prayed to the lord, locked the doors and removed the battery for a charge. Will be back at it again the weekend. Wish me luck! 

@Shearers thanks for the advice this will be going in my notes and I’ll definitely be doing this in future to further diagnose any problems. After a full battery charge, I decided last night these brakes will not defeat me and went back at it again today. 
 

Success! A slight “ooooff” when touching the brake pedal now, but a very stiff pedal about half way upon depression! And my brakes are back in business! They’re stopping and feeling how fresh discs and pads should! Thanks for all the help guys. 
 

My process as per Ford scan instructions were:

- Open front two brake valves, attach hose / container

- Depress / release pedals as per instructions on screen

- Close front two brake valves

- Open rear two brake valves, attach hose / container 

- Depress / release pedals as per instructions on screen

- Close rear two brake valves

 

Then again, for a shorter time / less cycles:

- Open front two brake valves, attach hose / container

- Depress / release pedals as per instructions on screen

- Close front two brake valves

- Open rear two brake valves, attach hose / container 

- Depress / release pedals as per instructions on screen

- Close rear two brake valves

 

And then again! This step will continue until stopped by the operator and should continue until any remaining air is nonexistent:

 

- Open front two brake valves, attach hose / container

- Depress / release pedals as per instructions on screen

- Close front two brake valves

- Open rear two brake valves, attach hose / container 

- Depress / release pedals as per instructions on screen

- Close rear two brake valves 

I killed just over 1L of Dot4 in total, but did draw some out of the reservoir initially before refilling with fresh Dot4 and I did fail around half way on my first attempt at bleeding (due to not enough charge on battery)
Hope this helps!