Hi all I’m new here and at a loss so forgive me if this is a bit long I’ll try to make it short so my parents owned this car since 2023 it’s a focus 1.8 petrol 2002 and it was on 55,000 miles at the time looked great underneath etc they’ve had the clutch switch changed as it was leaking about 6 months ago but it was just leaking wasent making a difference to the car other than that they have never had a fault with the car apart from the mph not going up and mileage disappearing while she was on the motorway but it returned after a couple of minutes anyway she gave me the car 3 weeks ago currently on 67k so I thought great what a steal ordered a whole service kit as I always do before I drive any new car to me I started it up to get used to the dials and position etc and noticed whilst going round the block that the mph was not rising or mileage was not increasing and then as I was downshifting to 3rd, 2nd or first while I put the clutch pedal in the battery light would appear and go off once the clutch was depressed and even worse if I went to slow down to go round the corner say 2nd if I dint tap the throttle for the revs they would drop to much and the car would just cut out, no steering nothing then would have to restart and also if I’m coming to a stop at the lights I’ll go into neutral and the revs would drop right down and back to normal once it stopped or it would completely cut out then to top it off if I go over 55 on the motorway the tcs light would illuminate meaning it’s not active  and mileage will then go all dashes and the idle revs rise to 1000 just sounding rough but again no difference in the drive I’m unable to turn it back on aswell once this comes on the dash I have to turn the car off and restart then it’s fine until I reach speed again now I plugged my code scanner in and it was showing as output speed sensor so to me that’s the vss as I’m aware these cars are known for them going so ford wanted 170 for one I couldn’t justify that and paid 60 for an identical one got the mechanic to change it made no difference whatsoever it was also changed in 2022 before the family owned it I know there was a watchdog about this but I don’t think they’d help now I’m really at a loss guys any help please I think it’s something simple ! Also heard it could be the dash but is it really likely that it would be the issue as this seems to happen on a timed basis when I do a certain thing with the car and all the dials work etc on the dash  I think there all linked but I don’t know what could link them I’m also getting electric shocks when I touch the drivers outside door lol haven’t tried the other side 

so things I’ve done so far : checked fuses 

checked the earth points under bonnet I’m not a mechanic but I like to learn and I believe I done it the right way not sure correct me if I’m wrong but I placed the positive end of the multimeter on battery and negative on earth points to check voltage and it was the same as the battery with ignition off but they were looking a little green I will say 

checked for loose wires coming off battery etc nothing there clamps are not all the way down but I don’t think that’s the issue as it was fine before I got it these issues all happened suddenly 

checked the battery voltage 12.78 with ignition off and 14.78 with car running checked the fuses underneath glovebox all good mind you I’m only checking to see if there burnt or snapped i think that’s good enough ? 

i dont see how the vss sensor would cause the battery light to come on during downshifts and this tcs light to come on at above 50mph but that also makes the mileage disappear to dashes so then again i think maybe it is but why would the tcs light come on then vice versa i dont want to keep throwing money at it but honestly believe its something stupid, if it’s the dash I mean I can get it tested for £45 if not faulty and if it’s faulty they will rebuild for £99 Amy advice please I know some people has been having these issues forgot to mention the gear changes don’t seem as smooth either 

ive heard there’s a menu you can get into through the trip button to look at the vss but is that the case ? 

1 minute ago, Alex164 said:

I’ll try to make it short

FAILED 🤣

The very likely cause is the infamous dry/cracked solder joints on the back of the instrument cluster, which is a common fault.

The instrument cluster needs professionally refurbished/resoldered.

@rd457 should be able to help you with the repair service.

You need to use FORScan to be able to read the Ford specific DTC's

On 4/7/2024 at 8:59 PM, unofix said:

FORScan (for use with Windows Laptop) : https://forscan.org/download.html

It's what many Ford owners use including some Ford technicians.

• vLinker FS, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

OR

• OBDLINK EX, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/OBDLINK-EX-FORScan-OBD-Adapter/dp/B081VQVD3F/ref=sr_1_5

For diagnostic use only:

• vLinker FD, for android phone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H82WC8L
• vLinker FD+, for iPhone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H8JHWP2

 

Search Tag:   FORScan123

 

I've only ever had one Mk1 Focus cluster, no cracks on the connector joints, I reflowed every joint on the circuit board, and scrubbed it clean of grime, as I recall, but it didn't solve the problem.

18 hours ago, Alex164 said:

I’m also getting electric shocks when I touch the drivers outside door lol haven’t tried the other side 

Well that obviously has to be a wiring issue, so since you know there's a definite and repeatable electrical fault with that, it could be a good place to start solving issues.

18 hours ago, Alex164 said:

while I put the clutch pedal in the battery light would appear and go off once the clutch was depressed

The battery light comes on when the instrument cluster believes the engine is running but voltage is too low. The warning is normally intended to alert you that the alternator is not providing any output and you're running off of whatever charge is left in the battery. In this case however there's an electrical issue causing voltage at/in the instrument cluster to drop when you operate the pedal. It could be an IC issue, or something external with the wiring.

Regarding your speedometer issues this may be a complete red herring but I think it's worth a mention. We had a 2003 Focus Ghia estate which suffered from problems with the speedometer dropping to zero. The vss was changed and later a new instrument cluster was fitted, all under warranty. The problem continued to appear and eventually became permanent. The speedometer would flick when the key was turned to position II and occasionally when moving off. The cause was subsequently discovered to be a chafed wire where the loom from the vss passes over the gear selector.

Our engine was a 1.8TDCi, not a petrol, so the above may well not be relevant to your issue. It would likely have had a different loom and different gearbox. However it would do no harm to check for something like this.

As for you getting shocks from the door handle that's a bit baffling to me because I wouldn't have thought the normal vehicle voltages would be high enough for that (except for the ignition system, obviously). Usually that kind of experience results from static build-up caused by friction between man-made fabrics in clothing and upholstery.

1 hour ago, mjt said:

As for you getting shocks from the door handle that's a bit baffling to me because I wouldn't have thought the normal vehicle voltages would be high enough for that (except for the ignition system, obviously). Usually that kind of experience results from static build-up caused by friction between man-made fabrics in clothing and upholstery.

I agree it is not possible to get electric shocks from normal vehicle voltage, except the HT side of the spark plugs.

The problem has to be 'static' electricity. It's not a problem seen much these days as the compound used to make most vehicle tyres contains polymers that will conduct static to earth. Of course bargain basement budget tyres are often not very good at disbursing static. 

3 hours ago, rd457 said:

I've only ever had one Mk1 Focus cluster, no cracks on the connector joints, I reflowed every joint on the circuit board, and scrubbed it clean of grime, as I recall, but it didn't solve the problem.

Well that obviously has to be a wiring issue, so since you know there's a definite and repeatable electrical fault with that, it could be a good place to start solving issues.

The battery light comes on when the instrument cluster believes the engine is running but voltage is too low. The warning is normally intended to alert you that the alternator is not providing any output and you're running off of whatever charge is left in the battery. In this case however there's an electrical issue causing voltage at/in the instrument cluster to drop when you operate the pedal. It could be an IC issue, or something external with the wiring.

I put the car into test mode using the trip button it done a needle sweep and they all moved  so if it doesn’t move while car is running surely that rules out the dash ? the code for my scanner came up as speed output sensor and today I got into the dash dtc codes and had d123 and d041 I checked all the earths under bonnet and was all the same volts as battery, my friends car does the electric shock thing but they don’t have any faults at all I’ve changed the vss and made no difference it could well be it’s not the one from ford direct but it’s identical and the one that was already in there looked identical too, it’s weird all these issues have happened at the same time and I can make them happen at will, as for the tcs light coming on and mileage turning to dashes when I hit 50mph and use the throttle more than a 3rd apparently the vss can cause that to happen but I don’t know honestly 

22 hours ago, unofix said:

You need to use FORScan to be able to read the Ford specific DTC's

 

I clicked the iOS link you put and it comes up with this ? Do I need to buy anything else or do I just plug it into my car and connect via Bluetooth do I need to download a app on my iPhone it’s not very clear 

2 hours ago, mjt said:

Regarding your speedometer issues this may be a complete red herring but I think it's worth a mention. We had a 2003 Focus Ghia estate which suffered from problems with the speedometer dropping to zero. The vss was changed and later a new instrument cluster was fitted, all under warranty. The problem continued to appear and eventually became permanent. The speedometer would flick when the key was turned to position II and occasionally when moving off. The cause was subsequently discovered to be a chafed wire where the loom from the vss passes over the gear selector.

Our engine was a 1.8TDCi, not a petrol, so the above may well not be relevant to your issue. It would likely have had a different loom and different gearbox. However it would do no harm to check for something like this.

As for you getting shocks from the door handle that's a bit baffling to me because I wouldn't have thought the normal vehicle voltages would be high enough for that (except for the ignition system, obviously). Usually that kind of experience results from static build-up caused by friction between man-made fabrics in clothing and upholstery.

Thanks for the info but my mechanic is a good bloke I’m sure he would of said about a dodgy wire when he was fitting the new one but I will have a look Monday morning for piece of mind when I get it jacked up this is really baffling me I don’t think it’s the dash as these lights appear exactly in there own timed manner like the batt light only will come on if I drop down to gears and revs will drop to zero then go back up to normal idle range unless it don’t cut out that is, but this is happening everytime on a downshift the way I can stop that is when I drop down a gear give a few revs before the batt light comes which seems to stop it from appearing but I can’t be driving like that 

I've had electric shocks from direct battery contact in the past, unless it was just a 'perceived' shock triggered by the sound of the sparks?

Not from a door though, I agree that's more likely to be static.  Some cars seem much worse for this than others.  In the 90's you could buy earthing tabs to hang off the tow hook which were meant to stop the static building up.  Haven't seen a car with one of those for many years though!

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

I've had electric shocks from direct battery contact in the past, unless it was just a 'perceived' shock triggered by the sound of the sparks?

Not from a door though, I agree that's more likely to be static.  Some cars seem much worse for this than others.  In the 90's you could buy earthing tabs to hang off the tow hook which were meant to stop the static building up.  Haven't seen a car with one of those for many years though!

I think it’s just a weird thing on this car it may pass it’s just something I’ve noticed getting out the car everytime it’s running I can live with that it’s the other issues unfortunately, may have to put it up for sale as I think someone who could find the issue easy and have a brilliant car 

14 hours ago, Alex164 said:

do I need to download a app on my iPhone it’s not very clear 

Yes you will need the FORScan Lite App unless you have a Bluetooth implant 🤣

Available for download from the FORScan website. Used to cost £7, not sure what the charge for the iPhone App these days.

7 hours ago, unofix said:

Yes you will need the FORScan Lite App unless you have a Bluetooth implant 🤣

Available for download from the FORScan website. Used to cost £7, not sure what the charge for the iPhone App these days.

Will this give me the full dtc code for fords though on the lite app 

Yes 👍

On 5/24/2025 at 11:40 PM, unofix said:

Yes 👍

My cheap scanner is showing speed output sensor and this one with for scan is showing me different faults none of which tell me what they are ? Appreciate what things I should be looking at 😬 done the battery check and vss with live data it work from dash to computer trip apparently and that it’s moving but the actual vss has no reading and as far as I know it says it’s getting signal

Tests_2025-05-28_2:16:23 pm.txt Log_2025-05-28_2:21:42 pm.txt DTC_2025-05-28_1:58:21 pm.txt Log_2025-05-28_1:56:28 pm.txt

3 minutes ago, Alex164 said:

My cheap scanner is showing speed output sensor and this one with for scan is showing me different faults none of which tell me what they are ? Appreciate what things I should be looking at 😬 done the battery check and vss with live data it work from dash to computer trip apparently and that it’s moving but the actual vss has no reading and as far as I know it says it’s getting signal

Tests_2025-05-28_2:16:23 pm.txt 3.41 kB · 1 download Log_2025-05-28_2:21:42 pm.txt 1.21 kB · 1 download DTC_2025-05-28_1:58:21 pm.txt 1.92 kB · 1 download Log_2025-05-28_1:56:28 pm.txt 1.04 kB · 1 download

 

Hello again so after my previous posts I’ve scanned car again and I’m getting the p1709 fault code pnp out of self test range when I highlight the pnp it says neutral position switch can someone please tell me it’s the blue and red block connecter on the clutch pedal and how do I test it as there’s 5 wires going to the connecter itself and when I unplug there’s just two pins Car is a manual 1.8 I’ve also took the dash out and wondered what parts do I spray with wd40 just going to try the trick that people seemed to use or know of anything better ? Do I have to take the back panel off to view whole circuit it does look like one of the solder joints is burnt ? Sorry for questions I’m just trying to learn and get to the bottom of my issues lol 🤦🏻‍♂️deciding if it is infact my ic even though I’ve done a cluster test and all needles work during sweep test too

Just now, Alex164 said:

Hello again so after my previous posts I’ve scanned car again and I’m getting the p1709 fault code pnp out of self test range when I highlight the pnp it says neutral position switch can someone please tell me it’s the blue and red block connecter on the clutch pedal and how do I test it as there’s 5 wires going to the connecter itself and when I unplug there’s just two pins Car is a manual 1.8 I’ve also took the dash out and wondered what parts do I spray with wd40 just going to try the trick that people seemed to use or know of anything better ? Do I have to take the back panel off to view whole circuit it does look like one of the solder joints is burnt ? Sorry for questions I’m just trying to learn and get to the bottom of my issues lol 🤦🏻‍♂️deciding if it is infact my ic even though I’ve done a cluster test and all needles work during sweep test too

@TomsFocus

Does this look burnt out ? Never seen one before but does look it 

That board looks fine to me.  But I'll tag @rd457 as well, the FOC cluster expert.  

Regarding the clutch switch, that's possibly one of the cheapest parts you'll ever buy direct from Ford!

Genuine Ford Clutch Control Switch 1066389 | eBay UK

The standard one only has 2 pins.  There is another version with 5 pins for cars fitted with cruise control.

14 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Regarding the clutch switch, that's possibly one of the cheapest parts you'll ever buy direct from Ford!

Genuine Ford Clutch Control Switch 1066389 | eBay UK

The standard one only has 2 pins.  There is another version with 5 pins for cars fitted with cruise control.

So is that code relating to the switch I’ve posted ? And how can I test I know you said but it’s confusing where I got to prob with my multimeter as there’s 5 wires going into it or do I unplug it and check the two pins 

16 minutes ago, Alex164 said:

So is that code relating to the switch I’ve posted ? And how can I test I know you said but it’s confusing where I got to prob with my multimeter as there’s 5 wires going into it or do I unplug it and check the two pins 

I don't know.  That code refers to a part that your car doesn't have.  So either it's badly worded and does cover the clutch switch on a manual.  Or it's a complete red herring and should be ignored altogether.

To check the switch itself, use the continuity test.  It should beep when you touch the probes together.  Simply put one probe to each pin on the switch itself.  Then press the pedal and see what happens.

Either it will beep and then stop when you press the pedal.  OR it will only beep when you press the pedal.  If there's no change when you press the pedal then the switch is knackered.

Another test you can do is the pins in the plug.  Work out which ones match those two on the switch.  (the other 3 are not used on your car as it doesn't have cruise control).  Once you've found those pins, use the voltage setting and switch the ignition on.  You should see 12 volts at that point.  If you don't see 12v, try again with the engine running.  If you still don't see 12v, then we have to assume a wiring fault between that plug and the PCM.

40 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

I don't know.  That code refers to a part that your car doesn't have.  So either it's badly worded and does cover the clutch switch on a manual.  Or it's a complete red herring and should be ignored altogether.

To check the switch itself, use the continuity test.  It should beep when you touch the probes together.  Simply put one probe to each pin on the switch itself.  Then press the pedal and see what happens.

Either it will beep and then stop when you press the pedal.  OR it will only beep when you press the pedal.  If there's no change when you press the pedal then the switch is knackered.

Another test you can do is the pins in the plug.  Work out which ones match those two on the switch.  (the other 3 are not used on your car as it doesn't have cruise control).  Once you've found those pins, use the voltage setting and switch the ignition on.  You should see 12 volts at that point.  If you don't see 12v, try again with the engine running.  If you still don't see 12v, then we have to assume a wiring fault between that plug and the PCM.

Hi Tom I’m doing this now these are the results with ignition off : 

volts: 0.04 

continuity: no beeping what so ever I checked this on the footwell bulb line and beeped straight away 

ignition on engine off

continuity : no beeps 

voltage 4.99 

does this sound like a faulty switch then I’m getting voltage but no continuity