Hi, I’ve just bought a 2013 2.0 diesel Powershift Mondeo for my partner as we now have 2 kids and it’s practical for daily needs. The car would go into R and D but no movement, so I drained the oil that looked brand new, replaced it with new oil, recalibrated the clutch and forks on my diagnostic and it now drives. Today I’ve gone out in it and after a minute of driving it said ‘ transmission limited function ‘ which then as I stopped the car it wouldn’t allow me to move… turn car off and on and it drove. Scanned for codes and nothing, took it back out and it drove but was jerky through each gear change. Any ideas what the cause can be? Clutch needs doing, torque converter failed? 

9 hours ago, Morgan098 said:

Scanned for codes and nothing,

Generic code reader ?

To be able to see and read Ford specific DTC's you need to use FORScan, or of course Ford dealers equipment.

On 4/7/2024 at 8:59 PM, unofix said:

FORScan (for use with Windows Laptop) : https://forscan.org/download.html

It's what many Ford owners use including some Ford technicians.

• vLinker FS, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

OR

• OBDLINK EX, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/OBDLINK-EX-FORScan-OBD-Adapter/dp/B081VQVD3F/ref=sr_1_5

For diagnostic use only:

• vLinker FD, for android phone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H82WC8L
• vLinker FD+, for iPhone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H8JHWP2

 

Search Tag:   FORScan123

 

I have a Autel diagnostic machine, I’ve downloaded Forscan on my windows laptop but when I register it asks for an invitation code but I can’t complete the registration to get an invitation code lol? Not sure how to get past this

I thought the standard download was free with no need to register?
It does most things except programming where you can get 2 short trial periods before you have to buy the licence so don't understand your difficulty with "Invitation code"?
Unless I've missed the point?

 

Quick questions: does it change OK in manual mode, don't forget to have electrical cables checked before making any big decisions (Skoda Yoda on You Tube had a similar problem no drive until fixed)

Edit: Did you rip the filter apart to see if it had trapped anything (esp. plastics?)

Hi sorry to jump on your tread but I have cmax powershift and it is jumping into and sticking in reverse when starting. I have had mechatronic out and replaced selonoids but to no avail. Thanks David

@david wotton, all due respect but as it's a different problem, better to avoid confusion and post your query in a new thread.
Initially, I'd say if it is only reverse (does it go into reverse without being commanded - which is what you imply) then is the lever adjusted correctly and on what basis did you do all of that work, what diagnosis was done (fault codes from Forscan?) plus what did you find when it was being done?
Please copy all of this to your new thread and that should get things going whilst avoiding @Morgan098 losing his track? Thanks

Oh okay in regards to Forscan I haven’t ever used it before so I might of got myself confused with the software. 
 

the gearbox filter I’ve taken out and replaced, there wasn’t any metal shavings or anything in it at all. For the internal filter inside the mechatronic unit I haven’t replaced no

The other questions to complete the history plus anything else that may be relevant or even not?

Managed to get the swing of using ForScan. Code came up saying I needed to manually relearn the adaptions, so again I did the clutch learning and forks learning, all complete. Went for a drive and drove perfectly. Parked up, went to put into R and again lost everything no movement. Scanned with ForScan and code P0603 came up ‘ Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error. Seems to be the car isn’t able to save the resets of the clutch and forks? Checked all fuses and they’re all okay. Really confused where to go next 

So, from what you say, if it is trained, it is fine but loses its marbles (when it is turned off or when?)
I'd check all wiring, powers, grounds and signals from gearbox to PCM including all earths, again before making any expensive decisions but it may be time to look for an expert (one you can trust who guarantees their advice and actions?)

Again, what happens in total manual mode (it works on a different channel to the auto mode)

At least you are getting some positive codes that appear to be pointing to the issues - does this return if cleared?

Yeah when the cars turned off and on regardless of how long it’s left off it looses itself. The codes only return after the cars been driven. I have got a good few trusty mechanics, one says maybe the mechatronic unit is gone, another saying the whole gearbox needs reconditioning or getting a second hand one. Bit of a headache. Cars only worth £2500/3000 so don’t really want to be putting a load of money into it

6 minutes ago, Shearers said:

Again, what happens in total manual mode (it works on a different channel to the auto mod

I haven’t tried that, I put it into reverse to go and test this and that’s when I came across it having no movement

Got it driving, tested manual mode and all worked fine. After about 5 mins of the car driving it started being jerky through all gear changes. Re scanned with ForScan and no issues relating to the TCM at all

IMHO It sounds erratic/intermittent, so I'd not make any big decisions until you have the full detailed history and everything external and internal has been monitored to death and a consistent pattern or set of them is written down.

Still suggest getting all wiring fully checked and all load tested (see Skoda Yoda Galaxy video) plus lever position checked. How old is the battery, any voltage anomalies?

Manual mode is activated electrically via switches in the lever which can be monitored in Forscan (Tip+ etc, along with multiple other TCM parameters that should be observed in detail for clues)

With due respect to your mechanics, they appear to be guessing (a bit like me but I don't spend your money!)

Will they refund if their guesses without evidence are wrong?

Can it be driven in manual until some clarity appears (I know you just want it sorted)? 

P.S. There's no torque converter, you may need the document that gives a lot more detail...

@Morgan098Perhaps crazy 5AM basics thought (sorry)...
Is the oil level correct, EXACTLY how did you check it after changing filter etc?

I followed all the steps using AutoData, filled up, went through the gear changes, took off the drain level bolt on the side, let it drain out and once it went into single drops I put the nut back on

52 minutes ago, Morgan098 said:

I followed all the steps using AutoData, filled up, went through the gear changes, took off the drain level bolt on the side, let it drain out and once it went into single drops I put the nut back on

Yes, but after you've run the engine and done the hold in each position for 20 sec then, you need to collect what drains out then top it up in 50ml steps until it starts to drip again then when down to single drips you refit the side plug (I always add 50ml to accommodate for leaks)
Otherwise, the front mechatronic chamber isn't full (you may be 400 ml down if I understand your process correctly):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CERqRSK2SWM&t=875s

The final top up fills up chamber 1 until it floods over and stars the drip from the side plug (Note; I don't call it a level plug)

 

 

Yes I did collect the run off and top it back up with it. I’m thinking maybe a TCM issue as it’s struggling to save the memory for it?

So oil level, new oil and filter has been changed/checked good!
If everything else (lever position?) mentioned above has been checked and you are certain the wiring is OK then an internal fault may be the only option but, at the moment, that would still be a potentially expensive guess, especially as it isn't a hard fault i.e. doesn't reappear with certainty every time, or does it? Can the information be retained if the ignition is left on for an hour or so with battery support (again, what about battery, age, voltages charge history etc)

This (I searched keep alive memory - have no idea of accuracy):

https://erwinsalarda.com/how-to-reset-keep-alive-memory-kam-in-your-vehicles-modules/

Clearly states: KAM is volatile memory (like RAM) that will lose its contents if power is disconnected.

So the memory MAY be OK but it is losing power  - is this back to a wiring fault with the TCM  losing power or low voltage for some reason ??? (I'm into guessing mode now)
I'd rule out everything possible before dismantling without any real idea of what to replace with certainty.

I was given a document from another member and there has been a socket wiring diagram presented on here before if you want it. Here's the socket and wiring (perhaps) Don't forget the earth leads!:

 

On 5/26/2025 at 5:13 PM, Morgan098 said:

P0603 came up ‘ Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error.

If the above checks (still relevant at car's age due to increased likelihood of wiring faults!) Olde Worlde ETIS  for C-MAX DCT450 unfortunately says:

P0603 EEPROM fault INSTALL a new TCM 

There were 53 possible TCM codes!

So if nothing else works, that may be the ultimate solution but I'd do everything else first and I'm certainly not suggesting that until all else exhausted.

Might still be worth fixing as we were offered £50 trade in by Arnold Clark!
 

So, this mornings thought was... if you can reset the transmission and it works fine for an indeterminate time (IIRC it stops working during use or after switch off) then the memory must be able to store the parameters each time to allow it to work SO I'm more concerned than ever to check that the unit is getting continuous reliable power and earthing, just sayin' (and I can only say what I'd do, putting myself in your situation)

My best guess would be the NVM in the TCM has failed.

Only way to prove that is to replace the TCM.

3 hours ago, unofix said:

My best guess would be the NVM in the TCM has failed.

 

I know you are very good at this game but I thought we didn't do guessing without ensuring all other options have been ruled out (hence my final answer of checking for any stupid wiring issues before even I'd give up and change it on 2013 vehicle)
It would be awkward (for @Morgan098, not us) if it didn't fix the fault?

6 hours ago, Shearers said:

I thought we didn't do guessing without ensuring all other options have been ruled out

Agreed.

Put it another way, P0603 is telling us the TCM has lost it's marbles and it can't remember. Since it uses non volatile memory (does not require any kind of external power source) it strongly suggests to me that the way forward is to replace the TCM.

A second hand one can be found online fairly cheaply and changing it won't take much time. Sometimes there is no real way to move on without trying a replacement part.

@unofix I'm confused, whilst the code mentioned by @Morgan098 says:

On 5/26/2025 at 5:13 PM, Morgan098 said:

ForScan and code P0603 came up ‘ Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error.

And mentions Keep Alive Memory: 

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0603

Which (along with other sources) states:

"When you disconnect your battery this memory is erased" (hence my focus on powers and grounds before doing anything)

Whereas even my ETIS states "EEPROM"  which as you say doesn't need any power to retain the information.

As I don't know which is right, I'd still check the powers and grounds and if perfect, changing TCM appears to be the option of choice (plus change internal filter at the minimum?)

Do I have this anywhere near right?