Hi there new here don’t know if it’s in the right place but I’ve recently done a engine swap I’ve used a focus engine to put into my connect 1.6tdci I’ve use everything off my connect engine and bolted it on but I can’t get it to run it will fire with easy start but can’t seem to get no fuel to injectors and I know the pump works as it was working when I stripped it any ideas people thanks 

Have you manually primed it?  The 1.6 doesn't generally use a tank pump so you need to do it by hand after opening the fuel system.

Something like this will do it but you may decide (I would) to get one that is switchable to pressure as well:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305290730587

I used to use one of these myself.  Can't remember pipe size now though.

FUEL PRIMER BULB HAND PUMP 6-8-10-12-15 MM DIESEL PRIMING TOOL FOR ALL VANS CAR | eBay UK

Yeah I’ve put a bleeder on the return pipe still can’t get nothing to the injectors 

15 minutes ago, Johnb1992 said:

Yeah I’ve put a bleeder on the return pipe still can’t get nothing to the injectors 

What sort of bleeder? (sorry, never had any success with the rubber bulb type @TomsFocus plus they can't do other pressure/vacuum measuring jobs?)

Can you definitely see fuel in the transparent (f present) pipe with no bubbles?

21 minutes ago, Johnb1992 said:

Yeah I’ve put a bleeder on the return pipe still can’t get nothing to the injectors 

If there's fuel at the return, it should be in the rail.

We need to know whether there's actually no fuel in the rail, or whether the injectors just aren't being fired electronically.

Ok I’ve fired with easy start just and I can rev the van up without spraying easy start in once it’s fired but as soon as I let if the revs it cuts out I have taken the exhaust away from the turbo though just to make sure dpf wasn’t blocked and stopping it so I don’t know if its because there’s to much air coming threw I  wouldn’t of thought so tho

And as for the bleeder it is a bulb bleeder not the best one either there is still a few bubbles in there but no were near as much as what was originally coming out 

The only other thing I can think of is the flywheel when fitting it I noticed there was no location dowel to go off all I could see that made sense was a small hole on the flywheel and a mark on the engine more like a hammer punch hole / indent so I lined them up and fitted like that 

I don't know about the flywheel alignment method - a bit of concern there and needs checking but you state it runs?

Even if timing is out, I think it should start and run providing fuel is there. If you wait and the bubbles become more prevalent, leading to no start and need more Easy Start then  I believe you are still likely in an air leak situation which, along with any other issues needs sorting.

I’m out of ideas tbf now ready to call it a loss it fires rev it up will run like it’s hunting up and down on revs for up to around 30 seconds and then dies 

Well, unless I get a bubble report and/or you disconnect a fuel pipe to see if there's anything there and look at rail pressures using Forscan, I'm out of ideas too (for the moment)!

I’ve cracked all the fuel lines to injectors and there’s fuel to all of them I’ll get the rail pressure tomorrow and see what it is I did try it the other day desired was around 350 I think and it was reading 550 but there was no fuel to injectors when I checked after the reading so I’ll deem that incorrect for now

Sound silly but would I need to recode injectors I haven’t replaced them I’ve used the same ones just curious if they would need recoding

Did you swap them one by one so they went back in the same cylinders?  If not then they are effectively new to the PCM and should be coded.  But even without coding it should run ok, just a bit rough and smoky while they relearn.

Not sure what's meant by lining up the flywheel.  The crank sensor is at the other end on these.  Flywheel should be perfectly balanced and not matter which rotation it's fitted in.

Yes I’ve put them back in the same cylinder and I was just abit confused as I know on some they have to be on a certain way so just wondered if that could of been a problem would the fuel pump off the focus engine I brought go in as I might change the pump just to rule it out do they need coding or just fit it and away you go

I wouldn't add any more confusion to the mix by changing fuel pump until you have results and even then unless there is serious evidence of a problem.

Likely the pump needs timing i.e fitting in the correct alignment which I don't know - was that done?

Yeah you do have to lock the pump off when timing I locked the pump crank and cam fitted the belt then rotated the engine and everything re aligned back up so would of thought that side of things would be ok

The HP pump doesn't really need timing.  It just produces a constant pressure.  Not like an injection pump that affects injector opening.

The reason the pump gets locked off during a belt change is to prevent surging in the rail.  But it will still run ok without being timed, they weren't timed on some of the early CR engines.

As for swapping it, it probably is the same as the Focus engine as the 8v 1.6 wasn't produced for long.  Just check it's the same part number.

I haven't read the whole thread but if you're getting 200+ RPM of cranking and 300+ bar of rail pressure then the injectors should fire.  I would want to know the rail pressure is too low before going to the hassle of changing the pump.

Thanks for the info I’m going to plug it in shortly and see what it’s reading I’ll let you know

7 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

The HP pump doesn't really need timing.  It just produces a constant pressure.  Not like an injection pump that affects injector opening.

The reason the pump gets locked off during a belt change is to prevent surging in the rail.  But it will still run ok without being timed, they weren't timed on some of the early CR engines.

As for swapping it, it probably is the same as the Focus engine as the 8v 1.6 wasn't produced for long.  Just check it's the same part number.

I haven't read the whole thread but if you're getting 200+ RPM of cranking and 300+ bar of rail pressure then the injectors should fire.  I would want to know the rail pressure is too low before going to the hassle of changing the pump.

Right then new codes to show and live data

rpm is reading 900 / desired fuel pressure is around 300 but it’s actually getting like 550 (bar)

Fuel rail pressure sensor voltage reading  1.76

and for codes these wasn’t showing until I ran it on easy start and it’s drawed the fuel through they are 

P228d frpr A exceeded control limits pressure to high

p0088 fuel rail system pressure to high bank 1

also shows p037d glow plug sense circuit but It say previous set dtc not present at time of request 

Generally if the Fuel Pressure is too high the Injectors will not be command to fire because their opening times would hsve to be too small. 

The Pressure is normally regulated via the Pump Duty Cycle to a certain extent and the Pressure Sensor on the Common Rail, both Mechanically and Electronically by dumping it down the Return Pipe back to the Tank. 

This is normally how things work I'm on my phone just now so I haven't read the rest of the thread and can't see what car you have 

 

1 minute ago, Tizer said:

Generally if the Fuel Pressure is too high the Injectors will not be command to fire because their opening times would hsve to be too small. 

The Pressure is normally regulated via the Pump Duty Cycle to a certain extent and the Pressure Sensor on the Common Rail, both Mechanically and Electronically by dumping it down the Return Pipe back to the Tank. 

This is normally how things work I'm on my phone just now so I haven't read the rest of the thread and can't see what car you have 

 

Hi there it’s the 1.6tdci connect well was I’ve swapped the focus engine into it as my cylinders had cracked 

So, the rail pressure looks like it  may be too high based on the pressure reading in Forscan, however you don't know if that is real or not (apart from @Tizer comment that injectors won't open if that s the case, so that may all match up).

So it's now a question of finding out if the high pressure is real or the sensor is faulty and then investigating the fuel pump control waveform to see if there is any evidence of actual control from there (I believe it is PWM i.e. a square wave, ON/OFF with different timings of those periods to control the rail pressure.)
I don't have many ideas left other than perhaps change the sensor to see if that changes anything, otherwise it's trying to measure the solenoid voltage (likely difficult to interpret) or needing an oscilloscope (again, difficult to interpret without a known good or being able to change the pressure to get the injectors to fire)
Only other thing would be to replace the rail pressure sensor with a variable resistor and starting with the resistance value that minimises the pump output and gradually increasing the output whilst observing in Forscan until the engine operates and seeing if any clues can be found.
I'd rather not get into guessing and changing parts without some evidence/justification, sorry I can't be more positive, excuse the rambling!