2 minutes ago, unofix said:

Programming the remote lock/unlock (which will also get keyless start working again)

See post by nitroshift

https://www.talkford.com/threads/keyless-fob-programming-how-to.410967/

 

Click on the "see more" to get the whole of the post.

 

Hi, thanks again for the reply, i saw this post through my long searches and thats why i attached the picture earlier of what i see on my forscan, i do not have any options for RFA on my forscan at all, i also tried flipping the switch on the adaptor and if i do that, it no longer connects to forscan and says it can not read the car, the only "coding" for keys i seem to be able to do is the PATS one.

https://amzn.eu/d/iTg28lh
This is the obd2 reader I’m using for forscan

The current version of FORScan no longer supports the ELM327 programming lead. They warn that not all functions of FORScan are available when using the old style lead.

Use the vLinker FS cable.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP/ref=sr_1_6

You will need to delete all profiles of your car stored on the laptop and then do a full rescan of the car when connected using vLinker FS.

Oh now thats something promising! okay. I will purchase this cable right now and it arrives on saturday, thank you so much!

The FORScan warning:

Important note: after many years of continued project development, even those of few ELM327 that have relatively good quality, ceased to meet all of the FORScan requirements. Besides, majority of the adapters that are being sold under ELM327 trademark have quite dubious quality that dropped a lot in the past: in fact, they have nothing common with the famous "ELM327" brand but name. Thus we do not recommend any "ELM327" anymore. If possible, please use adapters recommended above. FORScan will continue to support ELM327 adapters, but some new functionality may be limited or refuse to work on outdated adapters.

Hi, so update:

The new scanner works and I see this option. I coded two new keys (my old and my new) multiple times. I first started by just coding this first new key which didn’t work so I thought I would erase all keys and start fresh, this was a bad idea.

This caused all the central locking on the car to no longer function even though it says the programming was successful, so now it’s as if the two keys are dead, but only work with the PATS.

Any ideas?

Also I don’t know if this information is helpful but if I lock and unlock the car using the manual key provided, the car alarm will go off unless I put the key in the emergency slot (its done this since I first had the key not working problem) so it’s as if the key is not detected at all, and thinks I’ve gained entry by breaking in. Does this back up the theory of some module/component being broken somewhere and not detecting the key at all?

8 minutes ago, Firosee said:

Also I don’t know if this information is helpful but if I lock and unlock the car using the manual key provided, the car alarm will go off unless I put the key in the emergency slot (its done this since I first had the key not working problem) so it’s as if the key is not detected at all, and thinks I’ve gained entry by breaking in. Does this back up the theory of some module/component being broken somewhere and not detecting the key at all?

No.  That is the correct operation.  The alarm is only disabled by pressing the remote buttons.  It is designed to still go off if someone picks the lock.

Gotcha. Any ideas about what’s going on with the car/keys?

1 hour ago, Firosee said:

Gotcha. Any ideas about what’s going on with the car/keys?

Nope.

Unofix knows more about coding keys than I do.  If he hasn't been able to help then I'm fairly sure I won't be able to.

Only thing I can add is that there may be another keyless receiver in the car, separate to the RCL receiver in the roof lining.  It'll have to be somewhere around the driver's seat, possibly behind the dash or possibly under the centre console.  I do know there's one in the boot behind the spare wheel...could try placing a key in the boot and attempting to start the car.  The range of the keyless antennae isn't very far hence needing more than one.

I’ll wait for unofix to perhaps guide on what next, I don’t wanna start pulling random things apart unless need too - hoping I can get this solved eventually because it’s super inconvenient now not being able to lock the car properly & start it 🤣 - thanks for the reply and help though!!

Time to get back to basics before reinventing the wheel.

Do both keyfobs start the car if they are placed in the emergency slot ?

If yes then do the following.

1. Use FORScan and completely clear all the error codes.
2. Disconnect the vehicle battery negative lead for 20 minutes. Then reconnect and WAIT. Do nothing !!
3. Use a multimeter and check that the CR2032 battery in each of the keyfobs is 3.30V if the voltage is 2.99V or less then the battery is dead.
4. Check that the vehicle battery is 12.4V or higher. If not put the battery on charge.

Once you have done all of that, and don't skip any of the items then you will be ready to try and programme the remote function of the keyfobs.

Do not try reprogramming anything to do with PATS. If both keyfobs will start the car then you have proven that the car recognises the transponder chips in each of the keyfobs.

If you get this far, let me know before starting the KVM programming.

Hi! Thank you so much for your reply. I will do this at around 2:30pm tomorrow and will post here when ive done all the steps; and i wont try any programming until i hear back from you after doing the steps, thanks again!

Car battery is off now and leaving it off for like 30 mins. At the same time I wanted to check the fuses on the battery (positive terminal ones) as I seen some people have had issues there, and they are all perfectly fine too. I tested them with the tool that lights up a bulb if power goes through it.

Forgot to say car battery measured 12.29V, 

After running the engine it shot up again just fine, so no need to charge it since the car did it for me

Keyfob batteries measure 3.2V and 3.18V on both keys and they are brand new ones from duracell

Just checking that you have a currently licensed version of FORScan before going further 👍

Yep! I purchased the year license at the start

Hi everyone,

Reviving this thread from the dead. Life got busy so just had to live with it.

I purchased a new car battery today today to rule that out and sadly it did not fix the issue. I am truly at a loss as to what this issue could be but having to be quick at getting in my car so the alarm doesn’t go off, and also having to unlock it by the blade every time is getting frustrating, so I want to get it fixed!

What should my next steps be?

Oh looking back at the thread it looks like I never mentioned it. After un-coding (forced to, to be able to recode new ones) and recoding new keys to the car, the car no longer unlocked and locked by the remote key fob, it’s as if it does not exist at all now.

No central locking, no key detected, only starts via emergency port.

Changed/checked:

Battery on both key fobs with Duracell and measure 3.3V

Car battery

Checked all the fuses on the car, the original fuse that was blown does not appear to be getting blown since the first time (see beginning of thread) 

7 hours ago, Firosee said:

and recoding new keys to the car, the car no longer unlocked and locked by the remote key fob, it’s as if it does not exist at all now.

No central locking, no key detected, only starts via emergency port.

You have TWO problems as far as I see.

1. The remote locking/unlocking of the doors requires the Radio Frequency transmitter of the keyfob to be recognised by the car.
2. The starting of the car requires the Transponder chip in the keyfob to be read by the car.

Since putting the keyfob in the emergency position allows the engine to be started then we can safely say the the PATS transponder chip is successfully programmed in to the cars memory and no further action is needed regarding that aspect.

So back to point 1

The possible issues are:

• The keyfob(s) are the wrong type and transmit on the wrong frequency.
• The battery in the keyfob is either flat or is installed incorrectly
• The keyfob ident has not been successfully programmed in to the car.

Before jumping to the last point, you need to check that keyfobs are the correct type for the car. Have either of them ever worked properly with this car ?

• Are you very sure that the batteries in the fobs are in good condition and more than 3.0V ?
• Are you 100% sure the batteries are properly installed in the keyfobs ?

Only after checking those points can you move on to the possible issue of the keyfob ident has not been programmed in to the car.

I have two keys, one key that is the original to the car and worked from day one (but now doesn’t) and a brand new one purchased from Amazon. 
I am 100% confident the batteries are fine and test 3.3V, I have tested three different Duracell packs.

They are also correctly installed