Do the wheels spin when you plant your foot with the traction control switched off? It could be that the TC is designed not to be completely off and it can't calculate/process the new additional power.

I do initially get some wheel squeal/spin when i pop the clutch, but the power cutoff happens later in the rev range. Usually from around 3.5k and up. It lasts for 1-2 sec before it revs smoothly again.

- John

Paddywhack I was just about to say it will be well worth it. Then squeekie put a stop to that. I was hoping this possible issue would be resolved with some dry roads.

unless mountune release details by 24th mar (day after their open day) I'll be ordering the bluefin on the 25th

When i've set mine up (100PS not 125) i'll let you know if i get the same issue. I get the feeling its the TC system, almost like switching TC off only works for the power bands that the TC system was designed for.

When i've set mine up (100PS not 125) i'll let you know if i get the same issue. I get the feeling its the TC system, almost like switching TC off only works for the power bands that the TC system was designed for.

Yea, this was my initial assessment as well, all though I'm not so sure anymore. I would try with summer tires but I haven't bought any yet :P

Maybe I should try to film the speedo/rev counter tomorrow so you can see what I'm talking about.

- John

I've been away for a while, but got back this week and took my car for a spin. I got a new ODB2 adapter (old one broke) and tried it with Torque android app. Unfortunately I could not get a single proper 0-60mph timed run because it just will not do a full throttle run in 1st gear without 'cutting out' on me. I'm still on winter tires but its dry roads atm, so I'm beginning to fear its not a traction control issue after all. Best I could get was 9.5sec, which is about the same as stock. It pulls a lot stronger in 2nd gear and up than stock, but 1st gear is no good atm :(

Peak turbo pressure: 37 psi according to Torque. I don't remember exactly, but I think it showed around 30 psi with stock map. Don't quote me on that though.

It also showed peak HP: 161, Torque: 227nm. I don't know how accurate these numbers are, or how the app calculates it.

- John

Torque calculates the power from the weight of the car, (either from the data stored on a database for your model of car or the weight put in manually, or a "default" setting ) and the measured acceleration, it "guesstimates" it and is not very accurate, if you change the weight the power will change - i have put my car on a dyno and weighed it, put the exact weight in and the power figures torque produced were way out (too much) i had a measured 161Hp at the time and torque said it was 188HP or more

the 0-60mph etc is not accurate either

Traction is a big problem on a FWD car when you are trying to get a good 0-60mph the TC will cut in and limit the power - more and more power (with the same level of grip) will not increase the acceleration in 1st - in fact it can make it slower with more power because the tyres break traction and start spinning -

An example of this is an ST225 has a similar 0-60mph as a much more powerful RSmk2, a tuned RSmk2 does not increase the 0-60mph much more either that is because traction becomes the limiting factor, not power (at higher speeds, the RS is much quicker The 0-100 times are lower, the tuned rs 0-100 is quicker still)

The ESP / TC uses a conventional mechanical diff (differential) and brakes the wheels if they start spinning, so it does not increase grip/ traction, it just reduces power, so you can only utilise the available traction - to improve on this you would need a limited slip diff (including an ATB/ atomatic torque biasing diff) some fords are fitted with them Focus RS MK1/ MK2 Mondeo Mk3s (including ST 220 and ST-TDCI) di not have an LSD or ATB and rely on the ESP, to brake the brakes on the conventional diff, the ST-TDCI is restricted in 1st and 2nd to improve grip and help protect the DMF

best to try it agan on a dry day and try and get the weight out of the back (especially from begind the rear wheels) and at least forward of the middle of the car - a front passsenger may actually increase acceleratin even though its more weight

I've been away for a while, but got back this week and took my car for a spin. I got a new ODB2 adapter (old one broke) and tried it with Torque android app. Unfortunately I could not get a single proper 0-60mph timed run because it just will not do a full throttle run in 1st gear without 'cutting out' on me. I'm still on winter tires but its dry roads atm, so I'm beginning to fear its not a traction control issue after all. Best I could get was 9.5sec, which is about the same as stock. It pulls a lot stronger in 2nd gear and up than stock, but 1st gear is no good atm :(

Peak turbo pressure: 37 psi according to Torque. I don't remember exactly, but I think it showed around 30 psi with stock map. Don't quote me on that though.

It also showed peak HP: 161, Torque: 227nm. I don't know how accurate these numbers are, or how the app calculates it.

- John

37 psi!!!! How accurate is that app? 37 psi surely is really a lot..

Do the wheels spin when you plant your foot with the traction control switched off? It could be that the TC is designed not to be completely off and it can't calculate/process the new additional power.

Correct, ive tested it myself various times, Even if you turn off tc, it will still be there and cut power if it suspects traction trouble.. Sucks IMO

The quickest time I've got with bluefin is 9.4 seconds in a very wet road, TC off, and 3 of us in the car including myself. Haven't tried it in the dry, I have the same troubles in 1st with TC off, it revs to 3.5k, bounces for a second and continues smoothly again, I think it's something I'll have to take up with superchips.

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC mobile app

Torque calculates the power from the weight of the car, (either from the data stored on a database for your model of car or the weight put in manually, or a "default" setting ) and the measured acceleration, it "guesstimates" it and is not very accurate, if you change the weight the power will change - i have put my car on a dyno and weighed it, put the exact weight in and the power figures torque produced were way out (too much) i had a measured 161Hp at the time and torque said it was 188HP or more

the 0-60mph etc is not accurate either

Traction is a big problem on a FWD car when you are trying to get a good 0-60mph the TC will cut in and limit the power - more and more power (with the same level of grip) will not increase the acceleration in 1st - in fact it can make it slower with more power because the tyres break traction and start spinning -

An example of this is an ST225 has a similar 0-60mph as a much more powerful RSmk2, a tuned RSmk2 does not increase the 0-60mph much more either that is because traction becomes the limiting factor, not power (at higher speeds, the RS is much quicker The 0-100 times are lower, the tuned rs 0-100 is quicker still)

The ESP / TC uses a conventional mechanical diff (differential) and brakes the wheels if they start spinning, so it does not increase grip/ traction, it just reduces power, so you can only utilise the available traction - to improve on this you would need a limited slip diff (including an ATB/ atomatic torque biasing diff) some fords are fitted with them Focus RS MK1/ MK2 Mondeo Mk3s (including ST 220 and ST-TDCI) di not have an LSD or ATB and rely on the ESP, to brake the brakes on the conventional diff, the ST-TDCI is restricted in 1st and 2nd to improve grip and help protect the DMF

This all sounds correct, but that would mean the wheels are starting to spin every time I floor it in 1st gear at around 3-4k rpm. It doesn't feel like they are, all though I can't be certain. Also I do get some initial wheel spin when popping the clutch without powerloss/TC kicking in.

I really should get some summer tires to see if improved traction would help.

It was a sunny day today, so the roads are dry and nice. I have no extra weight in the back of the car either.

As for the Torque app, I set the car weight to 1150kg (2535lbs). The torque and hp numbers was just for fun, but the 0-60 time was directly compared to what I measured when running stock.

- John

37 psi!!!! How accurate is that app? 37 psi surely is really a lot..

I really don't know. Only thing I can say is that it's higher than stock map, which is expected ^_^

- John

Guys, Guys our cars are restricted in 1st to 3500 rpm to save the clutch / gearbox.

Guys, Guys our cars are restricted in 1st to 3500 rpm to save the clutch / gearbox.

You mean it doesn't give full power before after 3.5k rpm? Where did you find this info?

I made a short video of the problem. Unfortunately, it doesn't come across very good in the video. It feels a hell of a lot worse than it looks. You can see the rpm is hesitating between 3 and 4.5k rpm in 1st gear. It's, if anything, easier to see on the speedo between 20 and 40 km/hour where you can see its pretty slow. If you turn up the volume, you can also hear the sound is different as well.

Sorry for the shaky video, I had to told the camera with my left hand

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LznkBN94OXw

- John

Stick in first with the clutch down and it will not go up to the red line, this is normal, my old ST did this and it has been mentioned on the forums but no idea where.

Stick in first with the clutch down and it will not go up to the red line, this is normal, my old ST did this and it has been mentioned on the forums but no idea where.

Yes, i remember discussing this, i know certain cars are restricted in the lower gears as ive previously mentioned on this thread, the Mondeo MK3 ST-TDCI is restricted in 1st and 2nd gear to protect the clutch / DMF and to help traction - this restriction can be lifted by some remappers - i don't know the exact details about the ecoboost but -

The clutch pedal has a switch on it - so the ECU knows when it is down/ up, it knows when you have your foot on the clutch in gear and may stop you revving the engine in this case - in gear with your foot off the clutch it may be different

When you put you foot on the clutch to change gear the ECU may !Removed! the ignition and back off the power as well - this is supposedly to give you a smoother change but helps stop you slipping the clutch/ revving the engine -

you have a nanny (the ECU) watching you all the time in the car

If you could find the source/ post a link to clarify the rev-limiter/ restriction in 1st (in gear/ clutch engaged) that would be appreciated

Here you go to start you off

http://www.fiestafaction.com/forums/fiesta-power-performance/32909-limited-3000-rpm-park.html

Here you go to start you off

http://www.fiestafaction.com/forums/fiesta-power-performance/32909-limited-3000-rpm-park.html

Unfortunately its just a thread on a forum about there being a rev limiter set to 3k when the (automatic) car is in PARK, - not when driving in 1st

The quickest time I've got with bluefin is 9.4 seconds in a very wet road, TC off, and 3 of us in the car including myself. Haven't tried it in the dry, I have the same troubles in 1st with TC off, it revs to 3.5k, bounces for a second and continues smoothly again, I think it's something I'll have to take up with superchips.

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Fully agree. I have sent an email to them, will see what the reply will be.

Fully agree. I have sent an email to them, will see what the reply will be.

Yes, I have also sent them an email. Everyone with this issue should drop off a mail.

- John

Fully agree. I have sent an email to them, will see what the reply will be.

Yes, I have also sent them an email. Everyone with this issue should drop off a mail.

- John

I'm sure you'll find that what your experiencing is normal if you can't rev the car to the red line in first as I described earlier. The only proof you need is to go out and try it ;)

I'm sure you'll find that what your experiencing is normal if you can't rev the car to the red line in first as I described earlier. The only proof you need is to go out and try it ;)

Just to clarify, the problem we're talking about has nothing to do with revving it in neutral/1st gear with the clutch down, it's about uneven power output/cutback when driving in 1st gear under full power. As in 0-30mph is slower (and stuttering) with the remap than stock map.

- John

The ecoboost should give full power in first from a rest to the redline when standard. As John says the lower rev limit is only when revving the engine while stationary.

My car is not remapped and definitely gives full power all the way through 1st gear to the redline, so you would expect a remapped car to do the same...

Sorry John. I was nights last night ;)

I experienced similar problems with my bluefin and mentioned it to Superchips. Superchips however were only willing to look at it if I drove to there HQ so I returned the handset for a refund.

It must be a map issue, on stock map it has full power in 1st at every rpm.

You mean it doesn't give full power before after 3.5k rpm? Where did you find this info?

I made a short video of the problem. Unfortunately, it doesn't come across very good in the video. It feels a hell of a lot worse than it looks. You can see the rpm is hesitating between 3 and 4.5k rpm in 1st gear. It's, if anything, easier to see on the speedo between 20 and 40 km/hour where you can see its pretty slow. If you turn up the volume, you can also hear the sound is different as well.

Sorry for the shaky video, I had to told the camera with my left hand

- John

I know I'm not right but it sounds like the turbo kicks in later than normal

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Great.. and i've just ordered one..

Paddy if that's your Fiesta your profile picture & I'm guessing it is, can I ask where you got the Blue bulbs from as the light up the footwell really well