Hassen Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 Actually found this on Micks Garage which offers free delivery. Will it fit my Ford? :P http://www.micksgarage.com/proddetails.aspx?pid=1446698 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IINexusII Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 yep looks like it will 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 Awesome. After the disappointment of not getting it fitted today, I hope I can get this sorted sometime next week. Cheers man :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 So today after a bit of delay due to me only ordering 1 drop link rather than 1 pair from Micks Garage, I got the rear anti-roll bar fitted at Whites Garage in Tullamore who had previously done the timing belt, water pump and rear swing arm bushes. They had been cheaper than the Ford dealership and the quality of work was excellent. Here are a few pictures of it all: Parts used:1. Whiteline BMR78 22mm non-adjustable rear anti-roll bar bought from Demon Tweeks. 2. Meyle Stabiliser Links 7160600015 bought from Mick's Garage The results from the new parts is that the car barely rolls in corners and turns in much sharper. I was quite taken aback on how much it has reduced the roll going round the round about. Today it was raining pretty bad and you can feel the rear of the car much more planted. All of this is subjective, but I think it was worth the upgrade. Also, an unforeseen welcomed side effect was that the noise coming out of the rear of the car while driving has reduced such that it is noticeable. Will update with more feedback over the next week when I give it a good running in :) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzman600 Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Wow. This thread only took me 2 hrs to read (thanks for the link to it Lenny). I tip my hat to you Hassan on your audio build. I'd have recommended Rockford for power as they are and have been my favourite since the 80's. It's not just their power in watts rating but like in a car engine it's their 'torque '. My old skool punch 150 will still out perform many modern amps of higher power. I very much like your install. It's very well executed and logged. Personally I prefer passive crossovers as they are 'warmer' and a well built one will perform as good as an active one. What's the crossover on your sub? Still at 80Hz? From memory 120Hz is spot on as good 6.5"ers can go down comfortably to 120Hz. I'm a fan of 6 4 1 three was components as even a good 6.5 can mush up sound as it has to cope with a huge range (120Hz to between 4.5 a 6Khz 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzman600 Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Ooooops finger slipped lol. Since you've had new tyres and suspension mods, have you noticed road noise differences at motorway speeds? Oh just one criticism. Please turn your amps the right way up. I have the mk3 focus 1.6 diesel tit x and will upgrade in time but 1st job is sound deadening as even the standard system shakes the car lol. Again my hat tipped to you pal. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 Ooooops finger slipped lol. Since you've had new tyres and suspension mods, have you noticed road noise differences at motorway speeds? Oh just one criticism. Please turn your amps the right way up. I have the mk3 focus 1.6 diesel tit x and will upgrade in time but 1st job is sound deadening as even the standard system shakes the car lol. Again my hat tipped to you pal. Thanks a million for the kind words. I am glad it's been a good read as much as it was fun for me to do. It means a lot man :) As for the amps, I have plans in the summer to have them lying flat on the boot floor in a MDF box covered with black carpet, where the top is hinged and can be opened easily for access. Also, will leave plenty of room for air to circulate as the amps do tend to run hot. The Rockford Punch is a very good amp in my case. I switched from my previous amp as I had the feeling I was not being able to extract the best out of the Speakers and the new amp made a discernible difference. Like you said, Rockford amps tend to exceed their actual power ratings and are good quality. I got lucky as I bought it used off eBay and the person had not had it for long. The sub frequency has been changed for a while, and as you can guess, it's at 120Hz, which is spot on. It blends a lot better and you get that upfront bass effect where your ears can't where the subwoofer is placed in the car. With regards to the new tyres/suspension mods and noise levels: When I installed the new tyres on stock suspension, the sound levels dropped. The previous Falken tyres were poorly rated for noise as compared to the Avon ZV5. Once the new sway bar was installed recently, I have not noticed a significant increase in road noise. The ride quality is definitely firmer and going round corners this is evident as the car grips a lot better. The noise level on the motorway is still not great if I was honest. Last I measured with the phone app it was between 85-90Db, which can get very tiring for long journeys. I plan over the summer as well to have an MLV/CCF layer on the floor of the car on top of more Silent Coat to try to make things quieter. Also, I will get a CCF layer all over the inside of the door cards to further reduce road noise. I really wish the car would be quieter from the factory as after the sound install I done, the noise really detracts from the quality when on the motorway doing 120Km/h. I can't wait to get the summer project started but life has just got in the way with the imminent arrival of the new baby and house renovation works in progress :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzman600 Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 My pleasure Hassan. Ok as for road noise and copious amounts of silent coat. But in my opinion and from those years ago you should have stripped your doors fully and put the stuff on the inside of the door skin like Mr Spock did. It does make a difference but at the end of the day even a Rolls Royce and a Bentley suffer from road noise (my bosses have each and I've blagged rides in each). There's not much else can be done except using softer bushes in the suspension but that'd be detrimental to ride quality. Try thicker carpets in your car or even double up with standard carpet. I can't remember if you've done anything with your roof lining but some deadening pads on that and maybe even a layer of foam between the roof and liner. I have the mk3 focus tit x and road noise is not that bad luckily. All you can do is experiment. Trial and error I suppose. Keep up your good work pal and keep your !Removed! up ☺ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzman600 Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Last line correction. Should have read and keep your !Removed! up. How the heck removed appeared is beyond me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzman600 Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Mmmmmmmmm seems forum doesn't like the word p e c k e r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 Hahaha. There are some random words that are just beeped here. Unsure how it works :)For the sound deadening, I actually did do the outer skins, but didn't dismantle the whole door. I managed to stick the pieces of Silent Coat(about 50%) on the inside skin by going through the speaker hole. It did make a big difference in noise level. With regards to carpet, I read in another thread that a forum member used floor underlay on the floor pan to try to reduce road noise with good results. I might just do that on top of the MLV/CCF Dodo Mat and Silent Coat layer. As for the roof, I thought about sticking some pads on it and then I read a very informative article about sound deadening. It was quite long and detailed but it basically said that, the weakest point will always be the glass. As a result, the most you should concentrate on is the half bubble as anything above the glass line will have little benefits. The author also mentioned that the noise coming from the roof would be mostly from rain hitting it and that's higher frequencies. It was a very detailed article with real world data and I will try to dig it up for anyone who is interested. Another point that he made was that using sound deadening materials for 20-30% coverage of the area is effective and that anything further would be for diminishing returns. He suggested using other materials specifically designed for blocking other types/frequency of noise over it e.g Mass Loaded Vinyl decoupled with Closed Cell Foam for airborne noise. I am basically following the recommendations in stages and trying to get the best value for my hard earned money :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzman600 Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Looks like you found a very interesting read in sound deadening. I was reminiscing the 'old' days and sound off competitions. I remembered a transit van that most definitely went OTT. They filled each door with concrete. The rear of the van had its side panels made so deep/thick with copious amounts of foam/sponge filler. Mind you that van sounded great and loud? !Removed! he'll was it loud. At a different show there was a 3 series BMW. Rear bulkhead was removed and replaced by thick MDF with EIGHT 8" subs. That car was pure Alpine gear. About 12 amps and tweeters in the dash vents and Speakers where you wouldn't think. Needless to say that car was Spectacular in sound and install. Back to sound deadening. I was thinking about that and concluded that when I get round to doing it I'll only do 40 to 50% but after your findings I'll go 30% with dynamat. Good find pal. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 Wow! Now that's definitely OTT. I have been to a few db drag competitions where you see vans/cars built for one purpose - get the highest SPL. Of course, these are not used for daily driving but there are always some points that can be applied to a daily runner. That Tansit with concrete sounds like a beast and the 3 series sounds like being in a nightclub lol. As for sound deadening, 40-50% should be more than enough. I went OTT with the front doors and covered as much as I could since that's where I had my Focals and the rear Speakers are turned down very low where you can barely hear them. Plus, with the price of the sound deadening material, using it sparingly will save a bit of money. Btw, from my experience, Silent Coat seems to be as efficient as Dynamat and other brands. It's a little bit cheaper and the lowest price I found with free delivery was on amazon. Very easy to use as it has a square backing pattern which makes it a lot easier to cut with a box cutting knife or scissors. I am planning to use more of it for the floor pan next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Just wanted to hear the thoughts of other members about this: I have switched jobs and will be moving houses around mid August. My commute will become a 200km return journey 4-5 days/week from the 80km that it is currently. The car at present has 116,000 miles/186,683.904 km on the clock. I will roughly put on 25,000 miles/40,233 km (work and social trips) over the next 6 months on the car. This means that I will have to service the car at least 2 more times with all the wear and tear that it will go through, which will need changing. I know that the shocks are on the way out and my other concern is that, on the motorway, the car is fairly noisy still. This will definitely annoy me on the journey to work everyday. At present there are not forseeable major repairs to be done. Timing belt, water pump, brake discs and brake pads are all done. Next service is at 120,000 miles. So, do I keep the car, bear with it's inherent flaws and take the depreciation hit or cut my losses and get a car of similar value with lesser mileage? Also, the other issue is that our family has now grown with a 2 boys aged 4 and 6 weeks. The boot of the Focus is starting to feel small and I don't think the next car will be a Focus. At the moment, I am very tempted to get a BMW 320D E90 if I can find one within budget. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzman600 Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Congratulations on your new job Hassan. As for your car since you have given it a damn good sound deadening system and yet your car is noisey at m/way speeds I wouldn't worry about any depreciation of your car as unfortunately mk2 and mk2.5 cars are a plenty. Good choice in the beemer but is the boot big enough? My mk3 boot is roughly the same size as my brothers 320d. If I were you I'd go mondeo mk4 or better still mk4.5. Superb car all round and your hifi system in a mondy will blow you away. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 Thanks man. Not really a new new job as we move jobs within the HSE every 6 months. It's a new experience for me and I am looking forward to it as I didn't really like my previous posting. The Mondeo is still a definite maybe as well due to the hatchback boot being very practical. It would mean that I could get away from driving an estate car for another few years lol. I was thinking about the Titanium/Titanium X, 2L diesel, 160bhp. From reviews I read, it is refined, quiet on the motorways, has plenty of poke(albeit that I will probably remap it either way and gut the dpf) and has good driving dynamics for a FWD car. What is the main difference between the Titanium and the Titanium X for the MK4/4.5 Mondeo? The Mk4.5 has got really nice lines and looks very good on 18 inch rims. It's big without being too big, doesn't stand out which I like and is very practical with the hatchback boot. Plus, all of my sound system could be transferred over a weekend without too much hassle to the car. This is going to be a bit of an issue with the BMW as it uses 4 inch drivers for the Speakers :( 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IINexusII Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 if i were you id go for the bmw e90 i do about 70 miles a day and i do get annoyed by the road noise, and sometimes getting stuck in traffic makes me feel like i should get an automatic. i was thinking to myself to maybe get an older e39 525d/530d, whcih is probably much less economiical but it will probably be much more comfortable and relaxing to drive those cars were designed for motorway driving and have very good sound insulation but then you have done alot of mods to your focus so it must be hard trying to let it go! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 You nailed it there James. My heart is saying keep it and my head is saying that it's time to move on. The automatics in the BMW make life so much easier along with cruise control for motorway driving. Plus, it can be overridden for enthusiatic driving :) The biggest selling points for me for the BMW is the noise isolation, driving dynamics and relaxing motorway drive as a result. I don't really care about the badge or what it says about me. The drawbacks are a smaller boot compared to the Mondeo, higher running costs( tax, servicing) and the issue with transferring my current sound system which will need a few bits and bobs. Nothing major there and I just need to find one within budget, drive the Mondeo and the 320D back to back, and then make a decision :) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzman600 Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 The difference between titanium and titanium x is in the high end tech toys you get such as sat nav, cornering lights etc otherwise they are the same car. The 320d is a good car but I'd have mondeo all day long as a family car and motorway bruiser. I've had a mk4 140 horse titanium which I remapped and had the DPF gutted and the car was great on the motorway and A and B roads. I've 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzman600 Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Also had a mk4.5 tit x sport 2.2 tdci which was brilliant and I'd still have it if I had family to cart around. Mondeo great in all weather's. Beemer isn't. You have to have winter tyres on the beemer in bad weather. That's come from my brother who has a 320d. Cheaper to run and spares and help a plenty And 6.5"ers in the doors ha ha BM lol. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lenny Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 VW Passat 2.0 Turbo Diesel 2006 onwards very well speced out and plenty of boot space, Blowers in the rear of centre console, leather interior and full front & rear heated seats. Plenty available too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 Also had a mk4.5 tit x sport 2.2 tdci which was brilliant and I'd still have it if I had family to cart around. Mondeo great in all weather's. Beemer isn't. You have to have winter tyres on the beemer in bad weather. That's come from my brother who has a 320d. Cheaper to run and spares and help a plenty And 6.5"ers in the doors ha ha BM lol. Yea, the Mondy has a lot going on for it at the moment. Still tempted with a RWD car as I never had one and just a more refined car in general terms. What's the story with the 6.5" Speakers in a BMW? Possible to do or just troublesome? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hassen Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 VW Passat 2.0 Turbo Diesel 2006 onwards very well speced out and plenty of boot space, Blowers in the rear of centre console, leather interior and full front & rear heated seats. Plenty available too. I never really liked the look of the Passats. The CC is the only one I would consider and they are out of price range at the moment. Lovely cars to drive either of them. What do you mean by blowers? Subwoofer? Rear heated seats?! Noice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lenny Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 I never really liked the look of the Passats. The CC is the only one I would consider and they are out of price range at the moment. Lovely cars to drive either of them. What do you mean by blowers? Subwoofer? Rear heated seats?! Noice! My mother has one with fan vents in the rear of the centre console for rear passengers Aswell as heaters in the rear seats, Little wheel to adjust temperature of each seat. Auto boot lift via remote boot pops, Cruise control, auto lighting auto wipers front and rear parking sensors, Umbrella holder inside drivers door cavity 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IINexusII Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Another thing with any ford car though is that youll get the heated front windscreen (i think skoda and VW have it too now) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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