I will take a look at them later. Just thinking again.

The 3 way in the glove box. It should be alright hard wiring it, then sticking a switch in the glove box to use as and when I need it. As i don't really need it running constantly, nor just when the ignition is on. Realistically I only need it when things are plugged into it... (which may at some point be a dashcam.)

sorry to say mate; it will still need to be fused

either by piggyback adaptor

or

in line fuse adaptor

ya see once you cut off the plug you lose the fuse as it's inside the plug,

Hard wiring it then without fitting an inline fuse leaves alot of risk for when the unit is in operation regardless if it's on a switch or not.

It would work nicely for a dash cam,

But I'd like to suggest; most dashcam's and all moving forward use USB connection,

Some petrol on a cloth or nail polish remover will help remove the triple 12v socket if desired.

Then hard wire a USB socket to ignition live via a piggy back fuse adaptor in preparation for dash cam.

This option would be more convenient as it automatically switches on/off with engine

and

more efficient on your battery system as your not powering 12v to then reduce it down to 5v for USB

Also means less bulk and heat inside glovebox

Install Guide here:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/65147-guide-fitting-dual-camera-dvr-system-focus-mk2-mk25/?p=438442

I've wired it up to a switch at the moment. Il switch it out at a later date. Its only a potential overload, surely only if/when its getting used?

Also, why is there a safety difference between having it plugged in using the 12v socket that's used constantly and hard wiring it?

I've wired it up to a switch at the moment. Il switch it out at a later date. Its only a potential overload, surely only if/when its getting used?

it's good having it on a switch,

If you were to fit an inline fuse to the positive feeding between the power source and switch then it's 100% to use.

Nothing will happen when it's switched off it's fine.

Also, why is there a safety difference between having it plugged in using the 12v socket that's used constantly and hard wiring it?

The 12v plug contains a fuse inside,

If you open it; generally by unscrewing the top.

you will find it inside looking like a small florescent light has tiny wire in centre which melts breaking link if current gets too high.

When hard wiring; you effectively lose this fuse or safety net which protects against power spikes and regulates voltage flow.

this is why I recommend inline fuse or piggyback which is two in one really splice and fuse in one go.

I see, makes sense. Although thinking about your description of a inline fuse I came across one of these when removing my telematics box. I may just re-utilize this... Any recommended fuse size. I was thinking 5A?

Although... I might mix this with your install a 12v boot socket and put this triple socket in the boot.

I see, makes sense. Although thinking about your description of a inline fuse I came across one of these when removing my telematics box. I may just re-utilize this... Any recommended fuse size. I was thinking 5A?

Although... I might mix this with your install a 12v boot socket and put this triple socket in the boot.

5amp would be ok for just usb supply

But considering there are 12v sockets as well could be a 15 or 20amp

check box to see if it's state's size of fuse

or open the plug to see what the fuse says

By the look of things, I'm going to un wire the glove box set, so I can actually finish tonight. Otherwise ill be down there until the weekend tinkering lol!

Finally managed to see those photo's of you extreme pimping... i'm not that brave to do that haha.

here's the picture of my New pedals & Lights;

and also the Pictures of where I (temporarily) wired locations of the dual USB's I fitted.

Finally managed to see those photo's of you extreme pimping... i'm not that brave to do that haha.

here's the picture of my New pedals & Lights;

and also the Pictures of where I (temporarily) wired locations of the dual USB's I fitted.

Get those interior plastics cleaned & dressed;)

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Cleaned and dressed?

Cleaned and dressed?

Clean it, then apply a nice Silicone free dressing to the plastic to finish it off :)

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does it get it back to that nice sleak shiny look does it? any links to show what i'm looking for?

Thanks :).

does it get it back to that nice sleak shiny look does it? any links to show what i'm looking for?

Thanks :).

There's matte finishes & gloss finishes (I personally prefer matte)

I have several products on my website that would do you proud & there's a 5% discount for FOC Supporters

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awesome, i'll take a look now =D

Finally managed to see those photo's of you extreme pimping... i'm not that brave to do that haha.

here's the picture of my New pedals & Lights;

and also the Pictures of where I (temporarily) wired locations of the dual USB's I fitted.

looks excellent

I like the location choice for fitting the front footwell lighting I thought you were using the factory locations which is up close to the pedals.

An illuminated ignition ring light is very easy to install and ties in nicely with footwell lighting

link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310832060495

I've created a guide on installing the illuminated ignition ring light as well as front & rear footwell lighting

link: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/34704-guide-fitting-footwell-lighting-to-your-ford/page__fromsearch__1

Thanks :)

I didn't use the usual locations no. I did put one strip up above the pedals which is angled to the floor, then I got one strip by the seat, which lights the pedals.

If I angled the top one at the pedals it only really lit up one pedal as it was too close. Il post pics of the locations used when I get home.

Thanks for the links, my front leds actually light up under the seats and light up the rear footwells quite nicely. Not too brightly.

I'm not sure which way I'm going to do the ignition ring yet, I'm think either blue aluminum with glow in the dark. Or Led's.

As Promised:

here are four photos of drivers side lights & one of passenger,

Didn't get photo of effect in rear footwells as they show up better at night

As Promised:

here are four photos of drivers side lights & one of passenger,

Didn't get photo of effect in rear footwells as they show up better at night

They look great,

Two in the boot compartment would go nicely too,

One on either side replacing the existing light.

I am thinking of doing that, although I still have to figure out why my current boot light isn't working. Not sure if its dodgey wiring as the bulb is fine and I'm pretty sure the fuse is the same as the one for the courtesy & glove box lights.

Any ideas on that one Lenny. I think it used to work when it wanted to, then just stopped. I've looked at the bulb and it don't look blown...

I am thinking of doing that, although I still have to figure out why my current boot light isn't working. Not sure if its dodgey wiring as the bulb is fine and I'm pretty sure the fuse is the same as the one for the courtesy & glove box lights.

fuse is the same for glovebox and courtesy light yes,

Is the bulb you have fitted led?

If yes turn it around and try again because led type are fixed polarity.

They only function in one direction.

I am thinking of doing that, although I still have to figure out why my current boot light isn't working. Not sure if its dodgey wiring as the bulb is fine and I'm pretty sure the fuse is the same as the one for the courtesy & glove box lights.

The contacts in the switch fitted to the latch often wear away :)

Does the door open light come on for the boot?

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Lenny, no its not led its normal, might try turning it around any way, see what happens.

Ginger flame, the dash does tell me the boot is open yes.