You are looking in the wrong place. The accelerator pedal will have the throttle potentionmeter in it. This sends a voltage to the ECU which then determines the amount of fuel to inject amongst injector timing etc as required.

I took this apart the other day, cleaned the inside and the connector but no change.

IT,S not the fuses you need to clean it's the wires and connectors, if something has changed maybe it is something to do with the wires and plugs. See those connectors with all the wires,(ignore the green arrow) all off spray and very slightly bend the spades on the fusebox, some on the otherside as well. Take picture with your phone so not to get mixed up.

I also took this fuse board out and cleaned all the fuses and connectors with no improvement. Only now when I start the car in the morning or after work (several hours) the engine system fault takes about 30 seconds to come on, whereas before it was on instantly. Also, if I turn off the engine and turn it back on (even within 30 mins) the engine system fault is on instantly. So somehow it resets itself over a longish period but doesn't reset over a short period of time. - I am not sure if this means anything.

Also I am not picking up any DTC codes with forscan now. So I feel a bit lost on what the issue is, it could be the accelerator pedal or instrument cluster, ECM or something else, who knows.

I took this apart the other day, cleaned the inside and the connector but no change.

I also took this fuse board out and cleaned all the fuses and connectors with no improvement. Only now when I start the car in the morning or after work (several hours) the engine system fault takes about 30 seconds to come on, whereas before it was on instantly. Also, if I turn off the engine and turn it back on (even within 30 mins) the engine system fault is on instantly. So somehow it resets itself over a longish period but doesn't reset over a short period of time. - I am not sure if this means anything.

Also I am not picking up any DTC codes with forscan now. So I feel a bit lost on what the issue is, it could be the accelerator pedal or instrument cluster, ECM or something else, who knows.

And you did check crankshafft sensor underneath the car?

And you did check crankshafft sensor underneath the car?

Not yet, I will have a look tomorrow and report back.

Cheers

So I had a look at the Crankshaft sensor and I cleaned the connection but no luck.

I also did some testing with a multi-meter. This sensor has 3 wires, one is the positive, one is the signal switching wire and the other is the neutral.

I followed this guide to test it:

I got the following:

Bottom wire (Yellow and red) = 5v

Middle wire (White) = 4v but drops occasionally

Top wire (Brown) = ~0v

So I guess bottom is the positive feed, middle is the signal wire and top is the neutral.

Do these values seem correct?

I then tried to test the sensor itself using this guide: http://www.rac.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?13432-Testing-Engine-Management-Sensors-using-a-%A39-multimeter

However, I couldn't get an Ohm reading at all. But I was finding it difficult to get the probes in properly so that could be why. I am going to get some small crocodile clips and try again.

Despite all this it's probably best if I could get the sensor out and check there isn't dirt or something stuck to it, but its located behind a cover and the crankshaft pulley. Job for another day...

EDIT: the image keeps rotating but hopefully you can see where the sump is and work out which way up the picture should be

I have found 2 websites stating that the sensor voltage rating is 12v:

http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/sensor-crankshaft-pulse/hella-6pu-009-146-751_g833_a0026PU!009!146-751.html

http://www.autodily-pema.cz/autodily/peugeot/807-e/2.2-hdi-125kw/elektroinstalace/cidla?tecDocProductId=37840945

And various other sources stating 12v.

So does this mean my sensor is knackered or is the ECU or wherever the power comes from not correct?

I said crank not cam but could be either, fingers crossed. Maybe some one who knows about this stuff might get back? Still check the CRANKSHAFT sensor. So I notice that you only talk about the fusebox in the engine bay I'm only talking about the fusebox in the passenger footwell I think you have checked but just to be clear.

Yeah... I checked the crankshaft sensor, look at my post. I used the youtube video as a guide as it tests a hall effect sensor which is what the crankshaft sensor is on this model of car.

And yes hopefully someone can let me know what the correct voltages should be and if what I have found is a fault.

As mentioned before, I checked both fuse-boxes. Cleaning the connectors and fuses.

Ok then, let it ride till it get worse then hopefully some codes get thrown up. Don't spend on parts till then cause it never works.

I got some codes out off Forscan tonight.

When connecting to the car I selected No to current profile. It then seemed to connect differently this time and asked me if I had a switch. It also started revving the engine and Speed Limit Mode (or something like that) popped up on the instrument cluster.

Then I was able to get the attached codes. I cleared them and did it again and got the same codes, so these seem genuine.

It can either be a real issue with the accelerator, crankshaft sensor, dodgy electrical connection or it could be the instrument cluster: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/67562-electrical-gremlin-instrument-cluster/

I will clear the codes again, drive it tomorrow and see what else might pop us so I know more.

I will keep trying...

focus 1.6 fault log(26-10-15).txt

I got some codes out off Forscan tonight.

When connecting to the car I selected No to current profile. It then seemed to connect differently this time and asked me if I had a switch. It also started revving the engine and Speed Limit Mode (or something like that) popped up on the instrument cluster.

Then I was able to get the attached codes. I cleared them and did it again and got the same codes, so these seem genuine.

It can either be a real issue with the accelerator, crankshaft sensor, dodgy electrical connection or it could be the instrument cluster: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/67562-electrical-gremlin-instrument-cluster/

I will clear the codes again, drive it tomorrow and see what else might pop us so I know more.

I will keep trying...

After clearing the codes and driving for 2 days these are the codes I get:

P193B - Throttle/Pedal Signal

P1936 - Clutch switch input circuit malfunction

P1935 - Brake Switch/Sensor Signal

U1900 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

U1900 - Missing Message for Engine Speed

U1900 - CAN communication bus fault

And after clearing the codes this code pops up straight away:

U1900 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

Is this a cluster fault?

focus 1.6 fault log(30-10-15).txt

focus 1.6 fault log(30-10-15)no2.txt

Either a cluster issue or even possibly water ingress in the GEM fusebox.

I would go with a cluster issue as it was a common Failure on the mk2/2.5

Jamie

Cheers. I re-soldered the main connector today but it didn't help, but most importantly I didn't make it worse!

I will send it off for a proper repair next week.

I haven't managed to get this sorted yet and my MOT is due this month.

Do you reckon this fault will cause an MOT failure?

As long as speedo works and no warning light for ABS or airbags are on I wouldn't see a reason to fail it. Might depend on what lights are shown that should extinguish for safety features.

Cheers, I was thinking on much the same lines. So I should be OK (touch wood).

I still hope to get the instrument cluster fixed (probably by ecutesting.com) but not having a car for a week is a pain

Hi guys I have a similar issue to this however I have engine systems fault but no engine management light and this was all gd yesterday afternoon and only come on after I replaced my front discs and pads car is driving and braking as it should so abit stumped some advice would be great I have plugged in a bought obd reader and it’s showing no codes thanks for reading guys 

Hi there, 

I've got a 2009 fiesta tdci with similar problems. I've replaced nearly everything under the bonnet until I came across a mention on google that most ford tdci's have it and suggested changing the glow plugs.  I bit the bullet and changed them and at the same time came across the "air intake temperature sensor " and gave that a clean at same time.

After 10 months of going crazy and spending a fortune my fezza goes like a rocket once again.  I've got a new sensor coming tomorrow. 

Hope this helps. 

Cheers D.

I will add that 2 out of 4 glow plugs were dead but didn't come up with any fault codes.

Edited December 21, 20205 yr by Dean edwards
Missed info.