Hi all i have a fiesta 1.3i endure e engine 2001 51 plate. When iam driveing my heater blows out warm/cold air but once i stop and idle the engine for a few minutes it blows out hot air like it should but once i drive of again it blows out warm/cold air again now in august 2008 i had the heater valve replaced and from then to 2night the heater was working fine but now it not has hot like it used to be anyone know what it could be cheers alan.

Sounds like the thermostat is stuck open.

Does the engine get up to temp just as quick?

Piggy :)

Sounds like the thermostat is stuck open.

Does the engine get up to temp just as quick?

Piggy :)

I don't have a temp gauge so i would'nt know mate but i took it the garage before the heater valves are working fine their hot when you feel them ive even ran the engine and took of the cap on the coolent bottle to let any air locks out it was back to normal hot again but i think its not hot has it used to be spoke to the guy at the garage he says the thermostat are quite lazy to warm up on the endure e engines i only had it replaced last year has well ive checked in the engine bay no sign of coolent leaks underneath it fine so iam lossed now.

Run engine from cold.

Lift bonnet and feel the two pipes going to the rad, large ones, bout 2inch in diameter.

They shouldnt get hot until engine gets up to somewhere around 80-90degrees, then the thermostat opens and starts to circulate it through the rad.

Then when engine gets hottter, fan is then turned on.

If the pipes start getting warm as soon as the heater pipes going inside the car get warm then the thermostat is stuck open.

Also, look for what look like valve dust caps on the heater pipes in the engine bay, they are the way to bleed the engine, don't do it when hot tho, you'll burn yaself.

Anyway, try the above first and see what happens. Maybe take 10minutes or more coz of cold weather.

Piggy :)

Run engine from cold.

Lift bonnet and feel the two pipes going to the rad, large ones, bout 2inch in diameter.

They shouldnt get hot until engine gets up to somewhere around 80-90degrees, then the thermostat opens and starts to circulate it through the rad.

Then when engine gets hottter, fan is then turned on.

If the pipes start getting warm as soon as the heater pipes going inside the car get warm then the thermostat is stuck open.

Also, look for what look like valve dust caps on the heater pipes in the engine bay, they are the way to bleed the engine, don't do it when hot tho, you'll burn yaself.

Anyway, try the above first and see what happens. Maybe take 10minutes or more coz of cold weather.

Piggy :)

Just had a feel of the two pipes that run into the rad they are hot. when you say the heater pipes going inside the car do you mean the heater valve pipes.

yeah, do mean those pipes, only bout inch in diameter, go through the bulkhead into car.

Did you check the pipes from starting the engine from cold, not just after you drove it or once engine warm?!

yeah, do mean those pipes, only bout inch in diameter, go through the bulkhead into car.

Did you check the pipes from starting the engine from cold, not just after you drove it or once engine warm?!

I checked it from cold this morning took a while to warm up then i went for a short drive round the block when i checked the pipe that runs into the rad it was hot same with the pipe that runs into the bulkhead of the car that was hot has well sorry if we i seem like iam going around the world but i only know basics on cars

OK, so when you checked it from cold, did the pipes get warm within a minute or two or only after 10minutes at idle or after you drove?

OK, so when you checked it from cold, did the pipes get warm within a minute or two or only after 10minutes at idle or after you drove?

They went warm after i drove.

Ok,so likely not to be the thermostat.

Ok...gota be air lock then.

Follow those heater pipes from where they come from the bulk head all way to the engine...there should be somewhere a valve/screw to let any trapped air out.

You need to undo the valve/screw and see if water comes out (do this when engine cold)

If not, give the pipe a squeeze and see if any water comes out then.

If not, ensure the coolant bottle is topped up, just water be fine, and get someone to start the engine while you are standing by the valve/opening, it should hiss a little, and then eventually water/coolant begin to come out.

Wait to ensure its a steady flow of water, then with it still spurting out, put the valve/screw back in.

That should bleed it.

Piggy :)

Ok,so likely not to be the thermostat.

Ok...gota be air lock then.

Follow those heater pipes from where they come from the bulk head all way to the engine...there should be somewhere a valve/screw to let any trapped air out.

You need to undo the valve/screw and see if water comes out (do this when engine cold)

If not, give the pipe a squeeze and see if any water comes out then.

If not, ensure the coolant bottle is topped up, just water be fine, and get someone to start the engine while you are standing by the valve/opening, it should hiss a little, and then eventually water/coolant begin to come out.

Wait to ensure its a steady flow of water, then with it still spurting out, put the valve/screw back in.

That should bleed it.

When undo the valve/screw will i lose alot of coolant or water and when i fill it back up can i fill it up via the coolant bottle.

Piggy :)

Ok,so likely not to be the thermostat.

Ok...gota be air lock then.

Piggy :)

Cool so I was right on his other thread then

Cool so I was right on his other thread then

Has a airlock cause in the first place.

Hows a airlock cause in the first place.

Probably wasnt bled properly in 08 when it was repaired. Failing that theres a leak somewhere.

Probably wasnt bled properly in 08 when it was repaired. Failing that theres a leak somewhere.

Checked for leaks notthing everything is dry gonna try is tomorrow from cold see what happens