After cleaning my car last week, I used a sponge to wipe off some bird crap. Now there's a small area on the roof with minor scratches.

How can i remove theses? I've heard of T-cut, Is this what I need? or is there something else? and how best to apply it.

Thanks

I would not recommend T-Cut. Are the scratches deep (as in through the paint) or surface scratches? I am sure that would help people to answer you with a good product to use.

I would not recommend T-Cut. Are the scratches deep (as in through the paint) or surface scratches? I am sure that would help people to answer you with a good product to use.

i have been using Tcut for the last 35 years and think its the best consumer product for removing grime on a white car and scratches. if scratches are light then a polish like Autoglym will remove them. If not then T Cut. If very deep scratches then Farecla G3 can be used but this is a professional product and if not used properly can damage your paint work by removing the laquer.

Best of luck

The scratches are only surface. I think a small spec of sand was stuck in the sponge (the neighbors have been throwing it around in the bad weather) when I cleaned the car. I do have some Autoglym polish. I will try that tomorrow.

Thanks

T-cut or not T-cut. That is the question?

i have been using Tcut for the last 35 years and think its the best consumer product for removing grime on a white car and scratches. if scratches are light then a polish like Autoglym will remove them. If not then T Cut. If very deep scratches then Farecla G3 can be used but this is a professional product and if not used properly can damage your paint work by removing the laquer.

Best of luck

Autoglym is not a polish though - it is a polymide filler - it only temporarily fills the scratches until the product gets washed out over time. It's effective at what it does, but yeah - I learned the hard way on Panther Black paint.

T-Cut is a little too abrasive for frequent use; I would suggest a machine correction for sake of time, but it'd be costly if you don't have the equipment. Otherwise, DoDo Juice Lime Prime (or Lime Prime Lite) is a decent enough abrasive, depending on the hardness of the paint and the severity of the scratches. Most hand polishing is in vain for anything other than light swirls though.

Lesson - sponges are bad :D

I never had a new car before, so this one is getting washed all the time. I will have to read up on the detailing thread.

I've had a brief look at it before and thought "thats a bit over the top" or "that costs a lot". The sponge in going in the bin!

Would T-cut get rid in one go? The scratches are not deep.

T-Cut is a little too abrasive for frequent use;

Quite right. T cut should only seldom be used and works well especially on a white car where the colour will attaract grime and loose its shine. I use it maximum once a year each spring, ready for the summer season. Otherwise only the pannels that require treatment, like those scratches you have.

Thanks for the help.

I will buy some T-cut and give that a go. How do you apply it? Is it a matter of rubbing it in until the scratches are gone, or do you leave it on for a while then clean it off?

Thanks for the help.

I will buy some T-cut and give that a go. How do you apply it? Is it a matter of rubbing it in until the scratches are gone, or do you leave it on for a while then clean it off?

Instructions on back :P Use a cloth/microfibre to rub in and then a clean one to wipe off.

If you're looking to lift fallout and grime (tar and bugs too), consider using a clay bar too - will save your paintwork and reduces the need for anything abrasive.

Sponges are the main cause of swirls - using a lambswool mitt or microfibre mitt is a good idea. I now use the latter, as lambswool tends to moult over time.

I never had a new car before, so this one is getting washed all the time. I will have to read up on the detailing thread.

I've had a brief look at it before and thought "thats a bit over the top" or "that costs a lot". The sponge in going in the bin!

Would T-cut get rid in one go? The scratches are not deep.

Jack, if you are after some guides take a look at DW which can be found HERE

T-Cut should be a last resort! ALWAYS!

T-Cut should be a last resort! ALWAYS!

What do i do if t-cut is the last resort?

Confused!

T cut is something I too would only use if all else fails (i.e. a good wax) T-cut can be quite abrasive and if you do use it I would suggest you firstly try it on a small area like the underside of the boot or door edge to see just how much paint it will remove. You can buy, from the likes of Halfords, various creams to help improve the scratch and I personally would buy a tube of such rather than T-cut, even then try it on a inconspicuous area.

With reference to the bird crap it is worth remembering to give the area a good soaking and leave it for a few minutes before trying to remove. Birds will often eat grit which is then deposited in the droppings and may have ended up on your car / sponge which you then ground in causing a scratch while trying to remove it.

HTH

cyb

With reference to the bird crap it is worth remembering to give the area a good soaking and leave it for a few minutes before trying to remove. Birds will often eat grit which is then deposited in the droppings and may have ended up on your car / sponge which you then ground in causing a scratch while trying to remove it.

HTH

cyb

Not to mention that it can be quite acidic too (I guess depending on what the damned thing ate) - left on paintwork for too long, it eats into the clear coat extremely fast on some types of paint.

I would suggest you firstly try it on a small area like the underside of the boot or door edge to see just how much paint it will remove.

You would have to rub your car like mad and for a long time to remove any paint. Don't forget that the car has a lacquer layer covering the paint. But try it using a dark cloth, and see how much white paint shows on the dark cloth. Lets have the feedback and if I am wrong, I will publicly apologise.

Right - this thread is getting confusing, one says T-cut, one says not, then one says T-cut, then someone else says something else.

It sounds to me like you have minor scratches at best if they've been caused by a sponge, can they be felt by rubbing a finger over the area?

I don't go anywhere near T-cut, it's far too abrasive and there are much better products.

I have two products I use for correcting swirls/marring/scratches by hand and both have been mentioned already - Dodo Lime Prime and Autoglym Super Resin polish. The first is a paint cleanser with a small amount of cut (abrasion) that will physically alter the paint itself and the second is (again as has been mentioned) basically a filler with a very small amount of cut itself.

I'd go at your scratches with Lime Prime first (apply it to the paint area concerned with an applicator - foam or cotton - wait for the time specified on the bottle and then buff off with a clean microfibre. I'd then have a go with the SRP if it still required - you may well find that the Lime Prime has corrected the problem by itself.

Incidentally - wax alone will do nothing for scratches except for sealing them into another layer. But, both SRP and Lime Prime (particularly the latter) make an excellent base for wax.

I had some Autoglym Super Resin polish in the shed, so I've Put some of that on it. Can't see the scratches at the moment, someone said this is only temporary, is this right?

I'll order some Dodo Lime Prime and get some wax ready for the Summer. I've looked on E-bay for the Dodo Lime Prime, is this the real deal as I can see 2 different labels on the bottle?

Thanks for your help.

You would have to rub your car like mad and for a long time to remove any paint. Don't forget that the car has a lacquer layer covering the paint. But try it using a dark cloth, and see how much white paint shows on the dark cloth. Lets have the feedback and if I am wrong, I will publicly apologise.

But surely T cut will remove the lacquer making a dull area? Then once you have got through the lacquer you will start to eat into the paint?

if i can get the scratch to go with AG super resin i would stick with that,if after a couple of atempts its still there i use the AG paint renovator as its less harsh than t cut,just keep wiping of to check it doesnt start to shade or youve taken to much laquer off,if using it though allways finish with a coat of super resin and maybe a dash of wax

I had some Autoglym Super Resin polish in the shed, so I've Put some of that on it. Can't see the scratches at the moment, someone said this is only temporary, is this right?

I'll order some Dodo Lime Prime and get some wax ready for the Summer. I've looked on E-bay for the Dodo Lime Prime, is this the real deal as I can see 2 different labels on the bottle?

Thanks for your help.

There are two versions of Lime Prime - full blown Lime Prime and Lime Prime Lite. The latter has no abrasives and is meant only as a 'primer' coat for wax - you want the whole shibang to get scratches out.

SRP's effects yes are in theory temporary, however - if the car is sealed/waxed after application then the the polish/filler will be sealed in in much the same way as clearcoat protects the paint.

SRP's effects yes are in theory temporary, however - if the car is sealed/waxed after application then the the polish/filler will be sealed in in much the same way as clearcoat protects the paint.

I use AutoGlym Extra Gloss Protection to seal - it's probably not the best one out there by a long way, but it does a fairly decent job in preparation for a good wax. There are a whole host of sealants to try - I'm sure everyone has an opinion on them :P

I don't understand why you would seal and then wax - it's one or the other for me. Wax in summer, sealant in winter. EGP as a base for wax? Don't agree with that one either, the last thing your wax is going to adhere to is a rock hard synthetic sealant.

I have EGP and I do like it, but FK1000p beats it hands down in my opinion, and is cheaper because it comes in such a huge tin

But surely T cut will remove the lacquer making a dull area? Then once you have got through the lacquer you will start to eat into the paint?

All I can say that I have used Tcut for many years to dom the following:

Remove scratches

Remove grime on white cars

Remove tar spots.

I have not experienced any problems. My current Audi A6 which I have had from new is almost 8 years old and has coverred 145K miles and its paintwork is exceptional. Speaking to Body shops, they look down on Tcut as being a product thats not strong enough.

I appear to be the only person on this forum that has used T cut. Nobody so far has said that they have used it and had problems. In any event, I guess evryone has their opinion whether it be from experience or just hearsay!

All I can say that I have used Tcut for many years to dom the following:

Remove scratches

Remove grime on white cars

Remove tar spots.

I have not experienced any problems. My current Audi A6 which I have had from new is almost 8 years old and has coverred 145K miles and its paintwork is exceptional. Speaking to Body shops, they look down on Tcut as being a product thats not strong enough.

I appear to be the only person on this forum that has used T cut. Nobody so far has said that they have used it and had problems. In any event, I guess evryone has their opinion whether it be from experience or just hearsay!

I used T-cut for ages before I got into detailing and read around the subject. I've used blue and black versions, and neither gave the results I had hoped for, therefore I tried other products that claimed to do the same job and these worked far better.

I don't understand why you would seal and then wax - it's one or the other for me. Wax in summer, sealant in winter. EGP as a base for wax? Don't agree with that one either, the last thing your wax is going to adhere to is a rock hard synthetic sealant.

I have EGP and I do like it, but FK1000p beats it hands down in my opinion, and is cheaper because it comes in such a huge tin

When using SRP, yeah, I would seal and wax, leaving a long cure time. Always worked fine for me, but I can't say whether or not EGP is particularly lasting or tough. I understand the principles of a sealant :) but it worked well before now and beading for well over four months with 400 mile weeks.