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Love this!😅🤣😂 Q: How many group members does it take to change a light bulb ? 1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed. 14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently. 7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs. 17 purists who use candles and are offended by light bulb discussions. 6 to argue over whether it's 'lightbulb' or 'light bulb'. Another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid. 22 to tell THOSE 6 to stop being jerks. 2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is 'lamp'. 15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that 'light bulb' is perfectly correct. 49 to post memes and gifs (several are of Michael Jackson eating popcorn with the words added, “I’m just here for the comments.”) 19 to post that this page is not about light bulbs and to please take this discussion to a light bulb page. 11 to defend the posting to this page saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts are relevant here. 24 to discuss the merits of LED/swirly fluorescent light bulbs 44 to claim LED and fluorescent bulbs will kill you. 12 to post F. 8 to ask what F means. 7 to post 'Following' but there's 3 dots at the top right that means you don't have to. 3 to say "can't share" 2 to reply "can't share from a closed group" 36 People to post pics of their own light bulbs. 15 People to post "I can't see S$%^!" and use their own light bulbs. 6 to report the post or PM an admin because someone said "f÷×$" 4 to say "Didn't we go through this already a short time ago?". 13 to say "Do a search on light bulbs before posting questions about light bulbs". 1 to bring politics into the discussion by adding that (insert politician of choice) isn't the brightest bulb. This usually takes place within the first three comments. 50 more to get into personal attacks over their political views. 5 admins to ban the light bulb posters who took it all too seriously. 1 late arrival to comment on the original post 6 months later and start it all over again.

Hello Mondeo owners, I'm Grant from Auckland, New Zealand and 6 months ago I brought a new 2019 Mondeo Titanium 2.0L 177KW (240PS) Petrol Hatch in Magnetic. I have done some mods and had a retune and now I have 210KWs (280PS). My most recent mod is the TURBOSMART Dual Port Blow Off Valve TS-0203-1061. Its the best of both worlds - plumb back and vent to atmosphere 50% - 50%. I had a 2009 MK4 2.3L Petrol Hatch before I got the Titanium, lucky to have it as now the Hybird is the top model here. I'm DJ NEZZ from New Zealand.

I’m still bitter about the multi link. And the one reverse light...also the paintwork and the sat nav graphics and the mpg and the yellow halogen headlights apart from that it’s alright.

It does time out eventually when you drive off.

Mondeo 2.5T had the same engine as the Focus ST, detuned to get into the lower tax bracket. Lovely engine, makes a cool sound, and it can be tuned with all the same parts as the Focus, to get serious gains with relatively small outlay. Oh, and it is torquey, maybe not as much as a diesel but plenty enough

Its a bit of a myth now that no credit is bad credit. Open banking and changes in credit scoring methods mean that everyone can have a rating. Its not just about whether you've had credit, but the payment history on various things - direct debits coming from your bank etc You will have had credit without realising it. Rent on your house is a credit agreement - borrowing someone's house for a fixed monthly rental. Even paying your council tax makes a difference to your credit file. One of the most important factors though is trace-ability. Being on the voters roll at your current address has a dramatic impact on your score.

Congratulations Tom - your medal is on its way. They probably make enough off the people who accidentally sign up for a paid subscription and forget to cancel it to pay out £4.

This is just one of the many available VCM 2 clones. The biggest problem with these that it is very difficult to determine the quality of the clone. Some are excellent quality and are in fact 100% copies of the original while others have different components (sometimes even completely different PCB design) and can be really bad. Some bad clones do not even support module programming or result in a bricked module. Sellers of the better quality clones do usually show pictures of the circuit boards (the original design has a dual circuit board). This makes it a bit easier to determine the quality of the clone.

The PRNDS by the gear lever does light up in blue on the TC 6 speed.

@Botus i used ford etis. Checked my build then let it connect to my car to check its current configuration. Now when i log on it has my modules i installed listed as fitted. Will let me update modules officially through etis for £17.99 a module i think it was showing.

The wet DCT is not jerky at all, only the dry boxes. I've had the centre console sat on my drive before now, there are no LEDs there for the selector. I would have liked it if there was though.

To update software using the Forscan Beta testing software I recommend to use either an original Ford (Rotunda) VCM 2 diagnostic interface (or a high quality 100% clone) or any diagnostic interface that has J2534 Pass Through capabilities.

not 100% certain but I reckon it's on front of gearbox. if you stick you head under front bumper and look at front of gearbox it should be there. when I had same problem on my focus mk1 it just needed the plug on the switch prodding a bit and reverse light came back to life. Once I found that was where the problem lay I unplugged it and put some wd40 and pushed the connector on and off a few times. it was fine after that. Of course it's nice to have the light working but on a car of that age it's not part of the mot test (it is on newer cars)

The lights show on the graphic when the headlights are switched on. If it was raining heavily it is likely that the headlights switched on automatically because the wipers were on.

After heated windscreens this is one of the best features to have on a car

Hi all I may have mentioned elsewhere that I've just got a Focus ST Estate, and true to form I'm already looking at ways to modify it. I always modify my bikes and cars, but partly just because I enjoy doing the work. For the ST, cosmetically I'm looking at getting the roof wrapped black, maybe a rear diffuser, powder coat the wheels black, but for my first petrol car I'm thinking about ways to get a bit more power, and maybe some choo choo noises... I don't need masses more power, as I am already massively impressed with the engine as it is, having only ever owned diesel cars. I just don't like the idea of my car being "stock". I like something a bit different. Should I get it remapped and find out at that point what is the restriction to power? So if the tuner tells me it needs bigger injectors, I do that. More airflow etc. The other thing I've been looking into is the Cobb Accessport with just a base map to give something a bit extra with limited effort. This question I'm sure has been asked a million times, but I'm interested to hear the views of people who have owned and modified their own STs...

It's not so much cutting corners, but they can 'skip' a lot of the service items as they'll have been checked on the MOT anyway. It's not just filters, they also check various other components, lights, wipers, tyres, exhaust, steering & suspension etc. However, MOT checks all of those things anyway...so you could just change the filters yourself and see if anything else is picked up during MOT...

Now now 😉

@Morty1977 Is your car a MK3.5 or a MK4. I'm curious to know because I knew that procedure to reset the BMS worked on earlier Fords but I was not sure if it still worked on the MK 4's.

Thanks, that's funny, yours is the post which came up on my search for my answer and led me to this forum! I have the Thinkware F800 which also needs fitting, so I will be back to follow your instructions in the near future! 😀

The sizes are different, why would you want to fit MK3 springs in a MK2?

Check if you have 'rain lights' selected in the settings menu. This setting switches the light on when the wipers are on regardless of the ambient light levels.

Who told you that? Ford have already told many people (including myself) that there is a recall, however there is currently no ETA.

Ah, that makes sense. You can choose to upgrade to the free trial of the 'full' package but it makes it pretty obvious that you'll be charged after the first month. Though I guess most people checking their credit score probably aren't great with money hence the need to check! Don't know why mines so good tbh, I've still never had any credit.

Neither does mine!! Will have to use main beams instead in that case!

Hi all personal is Geoff been a ford owner some years ago now back wwhen you could fix it yourself with chewing gum string and a can of WD would get it running again. And didn’t need a computer/handheld unit to tell you that the temp sender has a fault not sure what mods or other add on bits I may need or are available to fit this car just coming from 7yrs of land rover ownership where there lots of forums that have lots of useful information (some not so useful) and hoping that there’s the same kind of help and information available on here. I’ve joined a few ford forum and all the help is “ take it to your local dealer” or just no help at all So I hope this isn’t another forum of that kind thanks to those that take the time to get this far and hope there’s a owners club meet up of some kind in the not to distant future thanks again Geoff aka Bandit101

Sorry I should have been a bit clearer. I don’t know of any issues with them, I just said I personally would avoid them. This is because I think their TV advertising promotes irresponsible lending.

Sorry, meant to reply before this! Thanks for the reply, I should be able to spend some time on it this weekend, with another pair of hands, so will investigate this more thoroughly. Hopefully not a major problem

It is Ford policy to only perform software updates if there is a reason for it. For example if there are problems that a software update might solve or if a recall or TSB prescribes to update software. In all other cases the software is not updated. If a customer really insists a Ford dealer will update the software and charge for diagnostic labour. If for example the updates take 2 Hours the customer has to pay for 2 Hours diagnostic labour. On the web based Ford FDRS diagnostic system and the older PC based Ford IDS software each module has to be updated seperately. Depending on the module the time to update a module varies between approximately 5 and 45 minutes. On a vehicle that has never been updated updating all modules that are installed into the car will take approximately 2 to 2.5 Hours. The prices shown on Etis (actually FDRS) are only for registered users (independent businesses) without a paid subscription. The prices are only shown after the vehicle software has been synchronised with Etis using a suitible J2534 diagnostic interface. The price to update a module varies depending on the type of module. PCM and BCM updates for example are usually more expensive than software updates for less important modules For users with a paid subscription like for example Ford dealers all service functions (including software updates) are available without showing the prices.

UPDATE...hi guys...just booked my mondeo in to Gates, my local Ford specialist, to have some rear sensors fitted...£349 all in...will take about an hour to fit...nice!!👍....i work nights so was asleep when the courier delivered the A/D rear-view mirror, so will pick it up from the PO tomorrow🙂

how does it work at Ford dealerships? on any 2006 or later BMW (though they hate to do it), you can insist they undertake a full software i-level update. This flashes every module on the car with a current release of latest compatible software. Its an hour's chargeable labour, and 3 hours plugged in at the dealership. It checks the vehicle order, compares with current status Germany thinks it should have and writes it all in one hit. There will be an issue if you turned on toys and it will crash and die. They do not check before what the car has, if they did, they should ask you to pay for the software license for features you have now (always been an option) then they update the order and it will happily load. Or you disconnect it before hand (things like Bluetooth and USB stuff). I had it done on 3 of my BMs. the car had 37 modules all done in 3 hours, one bike its 25 to flash and 20 on post setup calibration, the other one its all done inside 12 minutes with only 4 things to update (engine, chassis, TPMS and Alarm) oddly they never write to the ABS unit on the bikes. On a Mercedes its all one hit wonder, with each module taking a separate session to update. All done via SCN (online check and authorisation to Germany). This is more labour so very costly and they are interlinked and some times thing play up, but they pretend its all stand alone units. On Ford's with they do it without a big fight? if so how and what short of price? Do they do the whole car in one hit (the best way) or bits and bobs ?... and if its had say its had cruise control enabled I guess no way to let them retain the features ?

@zain611 Found another black Zetec S with a red dash today!!

The latest available software for the Level 3 IPC are: Focus MK3: BM5T-14C026-BBG BM5T-14C026-ACE BM5T-14C026-AFH CM5T-14C318-AE Focus MK3.5 F1ET-14C026-BBJ F1ET-14C026-BCD F1ET-14C026-BFF (normal) or F1ET-14C026-BSE (ST) F1ET-14C318-BD Whatever you do do not try to reprogram an MK3 instrument cluster with the latest MK2 Kuga software (to obtain the digital speedometer and still have the blue color scheme). This will brick the instrument cluster and without the correct tools and knowledge it is very hard to recover the instrument cluster afterwards.

The software update functionality of the Forscan Beta testing software only support the more recent Ford models. The Focus MK2/MK2.5 are not supported.

It's not privileged access but not strictly allowed lol. If you go on to fordetis.com and register as an IO (independent Operator) then select 'single garage' and agree o the T&Cs. Then enter your details of your garage (don't need a VAT number) I called my garage Ford and entered an old home address and phone number, clicked to make the invoice address the same and that's it, create a username and password. Once you login select 'vehicle' and enter the reg and search. 2 boxes wil pop up with + signs, expand the first box and it will tell you the transmission type. Then use https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Ford_transmissions to identify the gearbox. You may need to re register each time as once the account is checked and found to be a bit liberal with the truth it will be deleted. There is no risk to you for doing it though, and no charge either. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

The firmware update functionality of the Forscan Beta testing software versions works perfectly. I used the functionality in combination with an original Ford VCM 2 diagnostic interface many times to update several modules. The latest available software version that Forscan suggests however is in many cases not correct. This information is based on the hardware number of the module and does not take into account that there is compatibility between many hardware numbers and recalls and TSB's can also result in different software. In some cases the latest available software version that Forscan suggests is in fact an older software version that has been replaced Years ago by a new version with a completely different software version number. In my opinion you should only update to a software version if you are 100% sure that it is the correct software and is actually newer than the existing software. Because of this I actually prefer to select the software manually.

On my Mondeo they were optional extras and had to be specified when ordering so some will have them and some won't

What a coincidence, after a whole lifetime of never experiencing a 'heated wheel'. my neighbour got their new Jaguar XE at the weekend. mmm... toastie, and very quick to heat up LOL However, it didn't come with powerfold door mirrors! I know if I was in charge of the options list which I would have gone for...😀

This post has piqued my interest, although I don't own a powershift vehicle anymore I like to learn things. So tonight I've done some reading up about the problems that plagued the PS box and how Ford claimed it was normal. It seems that some problems where indeed real, but some where purely down to the customer. A PS is never going to be as smooth and behave the same as a box with hydraulic parts, there will be times when it's changes are rough and when it momentarily hunts for a gear if you quickly change your driving style. I didn't have any of these problems and I wondered why, well it seems that after 2016 Ford got things right with the box, I'm not entirely convinced that's true. There are reports of 2017 vehicles being 'shoddy' too, it seems the American market was the focus (excuse the pun) of the issues so perhaps the 2016 fix was in the US and the EU cars a little later [emoji2369] I'm no mechanical whiz but I've understood what I have read, especially the parts where Ford knew about the issues before the PS went on the market and told dealers to tow the party line that it was 'normal'. Sounds like a Ford thing to do. Anyway, if I'm right it seems that the problems only extend to the dry clutch boxes and not the wet clutch variants. Wet clutch design was used in the diesels (like mine) and the higher torque vehicles. So if you can justify a diesel then it might be a good option, due to the government plan to phase them out they are some pretty good deals about now. Just remember the wet clutch requires servicing but the dry clutch is a sealed unit. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Is that Ford price generic for all cambelts or did you have to put your reg/engine in? It seems a lot for the 1.6TDCi belt tbh!! Even at Ford I would have thought £450 was more than enough to cover it.

Yes you correctly point out my midlife crisis. This is actually my second one - first time round I bought motorbikes. I’m only 33 so not even middle aged yet! It does like to spin it’s wheels yes, so in theory the LSD should be top of the list. However, part of the joy of modifying is doing the work, and that’s something I would definitely not even attempt to do myself. The mechanic that I trust nearby is more of a diesel mechanic, does a lot of pickups etc so in theory he could do it for me, but by the time I’ve bought the thing and paid for John’s time fitting it, we’re well over £1,000. I reckon that’s a bargain if what I’ve seen about the difference a quaife makes is true, but it’s still a lot of money when I’ve just bought the car. I’ve also been thinking today about whether I could attempt the roof wrap myself...I’ve been quoted £320 for roof and mirror backs which is a good price, but again I like to do things myself...

The 2.5 duratec engine is not sold in the UK, so none of us have direct experience with it. But from what I've heard, it's a solid long-lasting engine, it's been around for ages. Assuming the gearbox is the 6F35, then yes that's also pretty reliable. There's no official service interval for the gearbox oil, but I would recommend 60k as you suggested, as a precautionary measure. Weak spots include sagging dash, and steering bolts. No others as far as I'm aware on the petrol mondeo. Edit: Ford Mondeo = Ford Fusion, it's just a change of badge, depends on the market it's sold in.

I'd find heated handlebars on my moped more useful.

Have one in my MK3 and find it really good in winter. Must be getting soft in my old age. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

It doesn't have a BOV, it has a recirc valve. It's designed to dump the pressure back in to the intake, rather than wasting it to atmosphere. You're better off looking in to induction kits for more noise than chasing a BOV noise, which changes the way the engine is engineered, imo. I think you can get a mountune recirc and there are probably others which are rated for higher boost.

After having owned a Mk3.5 and since a Mk8 Fiesta ST and Mk4 Focus ST, if it was me, before any power increase, I'd get a quiafe diff fitted. The Mk3 struggles to put it's power down at stock, the Fiesta and Focus now have diffs and it makes the world of difference.

That's what we're here for! None of us like knowing we get ripped off, but pretty much all of us are happy to stop others from having the same experiences if it can save time, effort and most of all money... Cars ain't cheap! P.s. If you ever get a bit bored, a silver Posca or other paint pen brings those letters right out 😁

Have just read all 10 pages of this thread, really enjoyable. I see that Pholf1 suffers the same unfortunate condition that I do. If someone makes a part specifically for his car, he feels a great obligation to buy it LOL Continued kudos buddy, keep her safe...

how about this tyre checker. trusty 1990 variant. believe it or not its still accurate when tested by our calibration guy who visits to check our tyre inflators and torque wrenches are within tolerences.

The Ford Pass app does say that it is only a guide and not to be taken as gospel. A decent hand gauge is essential. I use this one- Digital Tyre Pressure Gauge, Car Tire Pressure Gauge for Truck Car Motorcycle Bicycle with Hose and Backlight LCD Display https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0755V8JY2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F3buEbHBRYM5X Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk