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Love this!😅🤣😂 Q: How many group members does it take to change a light bulb ? 1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed. 14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently. 7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs. 17 purists who use candles and are offended by light bulb discussions. 6 to argue over whether it's 'lightbulb' or 'light bulb'. Another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid. 22 to tell THOSE 6 to stop being jerks. 2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is 'lamp'. 15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that 'light bulb' is perfectly correct. 49 to post memes and gifs (several are of Michael Jackson eating popcorn with the words added, “I’m just here for the comments.”) 19 to post that this page is not about light bulbs and to please take this discussion to a light bulb page. 11 to defend the posting to this page saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts are relevant here. 24 to discuss the merits of LED/swirly fluorescent light bulbs 44 to claim LED and fluorescent bulbs will kill you. 12 to post F. 8 to ask what F means. 7 to post 'Following' but there's 3 dots at the top right that means you don't have to. 3 to say "can't share" 2 to reply "can't share from a closed group" 36 People to post pics of their own light bulbs. 15 People to post "I can't see S$%^!" and use their own light bulbs. 6 to report the post or PM an admin because someone said "f÷×$" 4 to say "Didn't we go through this already a short time ago?". 13 to say "Do a search on light bulbs before posting questions about light bulbs". 1 to bring politics into the discussion by adding that (insert politician of choice) isn't the brightest bulb. This usually takes place within the first three comments. 50 more to get into personal attacks over their political views. 5 admins to ban the light bulb posters who took it all too seriously. 1 late arrival to comment on the original post 6 months later and start it all over again.

Hello Mondeo owners, I'm Grant from Auckland, New Zealand and 6 months ago I brought a new 2019 Mondeo Titanium 2.0L 177KW (240PS) Petrol Hatch in Magnetic. I have done some mods and had a retune and now I have 210KWs (280PS). My most recent mod is the TURBOSMART Dual Port Blow Off Valve TS-0203-1061. Its the best of both worlds - plumb back and vent to atmosphere 50% - 50%. I had a 2009 MK4 2.3L Petrol Hatch before I got the Titanium, lucky to have it as now the Hybird is the top model here. I'm DJ NEZZ from New Zealand.

I’m still bitter about the multi link. And the one reverse light...also the paintwork and the sat nav graphics and the mpg and the yellow halogen headlights apart from that it’s alright.

It does time out eventually when you drive off.

Mondeo 2.5T had the same engine as the Focus ST, detuned to get into the lower tax bracket. Lovely engine, makes a cool sound, and it can be tuned with all the same parts as the Focus, to get serious gains with relatively small outlay. Oh, and it is torquey, maybe not as much as a diesel but plenty enough

Its a bit of a myth now that no credit is bad credit. Open banking and changes in credit scoring methods mean that everyone can have a rating. Its not just about whether you've had credit, but the payment history on various things - direct debits coming from your bank etc You will have had credit without realising it. Rent on your house is a credit agreement - borrowing someone's house for a fixed monthly rental. Even paying your council tax makes a difference to your credit file. One of the most important factors though is trace-ability. Being on the voters roll at your current address has a dramatic impact on your score.

Congratulations Tom - your medal is on its way. They probably make enough off the people who accidentally sign up for a paid subscription and forget to cancel it to pay out £4.

This is just one of the many available VCM 2 clones. The biggest problem with these that it is very difficult to determine the quality of the clone. Some are excellent quality and are in fact 100% copies of the original while others have different components (sometimes even completely different PCB design) and can be really bad. Some bad clones do not even support module programming or result in a bricked module. Sellers of the better quality clones do usually show pictures of the circuit boards (the original design has a dual circuit board). This makes it a bit easier to determine the quality of the clone.

The PRNDS by the gear lever does light up in blue on the TC 6 speed.

@Botus i used ford etis. Checked my build then let it connect to my car to check its current configuration. Now when i log on it has my modules i installed listed as fitted. Will let me update modules officially through etis for £17.99 a module i think it was showing.

The wet DCT is not jerky at all, only the dry boxes. I've had the centre console sat on my drive before now, there are no LEDs there for the selector. I would have liked it if there was though.

To update software using the Forscan Beta testing software I recommend to use either an original Ford (Rotunda) VCM 2 diagnostic interface (or a high quality 100% clone) or any diagnostic interface that has J2534 Pass Through capabilities.

not 100% certain but I reckon it's on front of gearbox. if you stick you head under front bumper and look at front of gearbox it should be there. when I had same problem on my focus mk1 it just needed the plug on the switch prodding a bit and reverse light came back to life. Once I found that was where the problem lay I unplugged it and put some wd40 and pushed the connector on and off a few times. it was fine after that. Of course it's nice to have the light working but on a car of that age it's not part of the mot test (it is on newer cars)

The lights show on the graphic when the headlights are switched on. If it was raining heavily it is likely that the headlights switched on automatically because the wipers were on.

After heated windscreens this is one of the best features to have on a car

👍

As far as I know MK4 only and the Vignale was/is MK5. Ford fitted the 2.0 Ecoboost in the later MK4 / MK4.5

Yep likewise, my Mk3.5 conventional auto has those lit up in the same blue as the rest of the dash and radio etc.

Sorry I should have been a bit clearer. I don’t know of any issues with them, I just said I personally would avoid them. This is because I think their TV advertising promotes irresponsible lending.

Cheer mate 🍻

Both lights going simultaneously? Buddy, with that kind of luck, I lock her up, and start walking LOL 🤣

Managed to knock off work early today and meet up with Mrs. TimST2 in the sun to have our first drive in the Caterham Only did 14 miles, but what an event Now I need to get to 1000 miles and that first service so I can use the other 3,500 rpm...

how does it work at Ford dealerships? on any 2006 or later BMW (though they hate to do it), you can insist they undertake a full software i-level update. This flashes every module on the car with a current release of latest compatible software. Its an hour's chargeable labour, and 3 hours plugged in at the dealership. It checks the vehicle order, compares with current status Germany thinks it should have and writes it all in one hit. There will be an issue if you turned on toys and it will crash and die. They do not check before what the car has, if they did, they should ask you to pay for the software license for features you have now (always been an option) then they update the order and it will happily load. Or you disconnect it before hand (things like Bluetooth and USB stuff). I had it done on 3 of my BMs. the car had 37 modules all done in 3 hours, one bike its 25 to flash and 20 on post setup calibration, the other one its all done inside 12 minutes with only 4 things to update (engine, chassis, TPMS and Alarm) oddly they never write to the ABS unit on the bikes. On a Mercedes its all one hit wonder, with each module taking a separate session to update. All done via SCN (online check and authorisation to Germany). This is more labour so very costly and they are interlinked and some times thing play up, but they pretend its all stand alone units. On Ford's with they do it without a big fight? if so how and what short of price? Do they do the whole car in one hit (the best way) or bits and bobs ?... and if its had say its had cruise control enabled I guess no way to let them retain the features ?

The original steering wheel badge is part of the steering wheel airbag assembly and not available as a seperate part. To replace the steering wheel badge a Ford dealer will replace the complete steering wheel airbag. It is however much cheaper to buy a non original steering wheel badge or have one custom made.

My 2017 is an auto and the 37500 includes the auto box oil change - £699 through ford! Luckily there is an ex-Ford place near me who chargeD £200 for the service, £200 for the auto box oil change. Still expensive but easier to swallow than £700!

Would’ve thought they’d put the 8 speed in the Puma. Ford must’ve found a cheaper alternative.

Anybody elses dog watch tele?

The latest available software for the Level 3 IPC are: Focus MK3: BM5T-14C026-BBG BM5T-14C026-ACE BM5T-14C026-AFH CM5T-14C318-AE Focus MK3.5 F1ET-14C026-BBJ F1ET-14C026-BCD F1ET-14C026-BFF (normal) or F1ET-14C026-BSE (ST) F1ET-14C318-BD Whatever you do do not try to reprogram an MK3 instrument cluster with the latest MK2 Kuga software (to obtain the digital speedometer and still have the blue color scheme). This will brick the instrument cluster and without the correct tools and knowledge it is very hard to recover the instrument cluster afterwards.

See the sticky on boot leaking I had exactly the same issue as you, resealing the vents under the rear bumper cured it.

When selecting manually the Forscan program shows all available software versions that Forscan considers to be compatible. The Forscan program downloads the software directly from the Ford servers. The software is publicly available and can be downloaded manually from the following website: https://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/wds/PCMReprogram/DSFM_PCMReprogram.asp?swproduct=IDS It is very difficult to determine which are the latest available software versions. Just a small example that the Forscan Beta testing software does not always show the correct latest available software: My PCM has part number CV61-12A650-AMF and originally had software version CV61-14C204-AMF. Forscan shows software version CV61-14C204-AML to be the latest available software version. My car has the additional electric coolant pump installed according to the TSB Ford released Years ago. The latest correct software version in this situation is CV61-14C204-ARH which I already have for over a Year.

Here's some of my furry friends. Here's a nice Longfin pleco. Also a gold shrimp carrying eggs on her tail. I started with 3 red and 3 blue ones and now a year later I'm getting shrimps pop out in colours such as this 😂

I'll test for a current to the relay when the buttons pressed and take it from there. Just spent £900 getting a clutch n flywheel because I didn't want to grovel in the cold so another £700 is out the window for a bit. If I have to I'll rig another button just for the starter for now. Really need the schematic though to trace it without ripping everything apart looking. Not going to let it beat me if I can help it. 😂😂

On the gearbox, I'm guessing, as it it on the Mondeo mk3

Oops, I forgot about the later 1.5 diesels. So 1.0 Petrol and 1.6 Petrol and Diesel were the problematic dry clutch, which improved over the years. Is the 1.5d wet clutch Powershift a good one?

@ShamusUK my 1.5d focus 2017 had a wet clutch PS Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

2.0 diesels came with wet clutch Powershift - robust and reliable (for this type of gearbox). In fact this Peugeot engine is also said to be reliable. Not a bad combination. Gearbox oil changes are required to keep things reliable and smooth. Every 35k i believe, at around £300. 1.5 petrol from very late 2016 onwards came with Torque Converter automatic - ultra reliable, but thirsty (due to being 6 speed and a torque converter). This is the safest combination, if you can tolerate 25-30mpg. I have this engine and gearbox. It's brilliant. Everything else on mk3 and mk3.5 was dry clutch Powershift - reliability and smoothness improved as the years went by - and reports of big bills become more rare. Early ones are best avoided, although many would have had clutch packs replaced under warranty, and software updates applied (2014-2016 seems to be low risk, especially with <30k on the clock). Everything on mk4 is torque converter 8 speed. The above is what I learned when looking for my Focus last year. After having a DSG Passat in the past, I did not want a Powershift - although the (dry clutch) DSG problems seem far more prevalent and catastrophic and expensive, compared to (dry clutch) Powershift. I would never touch another VW Group DSG or S-Tronic car again (unreliable, jerky and dangerous hesitation/lag). I would take a chance on a 2.0 Diesel Powershift though (wet clutch), as fitted to a heavy 2016 Kuga for example, where the car is more suited to a Diesel, and economy would just be too bad with the old 6 speed torque converter. Hope that helps.

Zetec wouldn't have auto dimming mirror as standard, it comes as a package with auto lights & wipers. It's standard on Titanium. Parking sensors are an optional extra as above.

i was quite unimpressed by the MPG when I first got mine but it has now done 13000 miles and is getting around 55-58 MPG average. Not bad really, I find that sport mode is best

Yes, as a former owner of several VW Group Cars I've done a fair amount of lurking on the relevant forums and it seems most of the issues with VW's DSG boxes have concerned the dry clutch variety. They also use wet clutch for higher torque applications which seem less problematic.

If your looking at this post thinking you’ve got SLA suspension , about a month after that post (May 2019) Ford started putting torsion beam in almost every mk4 focus they make.

The 2.5 duratec engine is not sold in the UK, so none of us have direct experience with it. But from what I've heard, it's a solid long-lasting engine, it's been around for ages. Assuming the gearbox is the 6F35, then yes that's also pretty reliable. There's no official service interval for the gearbox oil, but I would recommend 60k as you suggested, as a precautionary measure. Weak spots include sagging dash, and steering bolts. No others as far as I'm aware on the petrol mondeo. Edit: Ford Mondeo = Ford Fusion, it's just a change of badge, depends on the market it's sold in.

I had my mid-life crisis and I bought an ST Estate too lol I got a good one and I love it, I said I'd not do anything to it anytime soon, but I'm sooo tempted. I'd heard all about the Focus ST's struggles at the front, and they are all true lol, turn a corner and you can be spinning wheels like a hooligan, I'm liking the idea of that diff, I'd never really notice a power increase on mine, most of my trips are too urban and too short.

That's a good idea actually as I will potentially get a slight performance upgrade rather than just a mod for attention seeking noises....

I used Bluefin on both my mk3.5 ST's, the power gain was decent and no modifications were needed. Must admit that torque steer and wheel spin was a bit of a pain but controllable. My mk4 ST has electronic LSD so takes off straight as an arrow and far more refined. I'll soon be getting Bluefin on it too and looking around 320bhp which should be interesting. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

stressing over this is a total waste of time... the pressures will go up and down 3 PSI dependant upon weather conditions they then change up to 5 PSI based on tyre temperatures thus if its sitting parked up on a cold day, say 10C and one tyre on the right front gets sun for 2 hour its at 32psi whilst the other side is at 29 PSI, you drive to the shops with a journey that's predominantly left hand corners going gently, at 4 miles in they are the same pressure they were when you set out. Next day atmospheric pressure has changed and the both jump up 2 PSI, but everything else is exactly the same. But you're late so you do the same trip in a hurry. When you get to Sainsburys, left front is at 34 and so is the right front. But you parked in a puddle and waited 20 mins in a queue now both tyres are now cold and are at 30PSI except they weren't.... the left one got a nail yesterday and dropped to 25 and stopped... the garage you use has always had a tyre pump's gauge that misreads by 5 PSI… and no one ever explained you must use the trigger to release the air to get an accurate reading... So if you pumped one to 32PSI and stopped bang on, but on another you went over and dropped back to 32, one is really at 32 the other is at 30... and last time you fixed a puncture the garage didn't tighten the valve correctly and one rear one's been on 20 PSI for the last 4 months Bung in about what it needs, check its about right regularly and the 1 to 2 PSI is irrelevant unless you get and manage around all the fun listed above. The biggest change I get is summer to winter I see 3 PSI change, and if its your bike they leak out 3 PSI a month and modern geometry and silly tyres designed to understeer run a critical window where its al over the place unless you get the front inside a 5 PSI window. Whereas most cars could be 8 PSI either side and 85 out of 100 drivers won't be able to feel the difference If you get the readout from real TPMS, the reading appears more stable in Bar, 01 Bar = 1.5 PSI there is no way the sensors built for 30 quid can measure properly outside 0.1 Bar accuracy. And don't for get all real TPMS sensors continually lie to make you feel better... as they broadcast over BT both temp and pressure and the car builds in compensation to the readings for temp impact as the tyres warm or very cold temps

https://www.amazon.de/Reifendruckprüfer-Reifendruckmesser-0-4-Ablass-Klappbox/dp/B0152Y76IC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=flaig+reifendruckprüfer&qid=1582359987&sprefix=Flaig&sr=8-3 I use this Tool, It works korrekt and very Fine

Yes, that’s the one I use and have found it to be very good.

Foot pump?? Honestly buddy, treat yourself to either a digital tyre gauge, like a Michelin, or indeed, a digital air compressor with a built in cut off which will inflate tyre to correct pressure then cut out. (oh, and as said, always do from cold...)

I really miss privacy glass...makes night driving and winter sun driving so much nicer imo, also helps to keep the interior cooler in summer. It's one of the things I'm really hoping to have on the next car again tbh. As for reversing...I managed for 4 years in the Mk2.5 with dark privacy glass, that useless single reverse light on the floor and no parking sensors...

I sort of feel the same way. In my previous car I bought fitted shades that clipped inside the window frames and ended up removing the rear one because I found it a pain for night driving (it's always useful to get a good look at who's following you, especially at night - you don't want to get any unexpected blue lights flashing in your rear-view mirror).