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(Sorry for some bad English language in this….) The durashift on my Fusion has malfunctioned sometimes the last month. No reverse sometimes, no forward gears other times, gears get stuck and at last no gear at all (but the display showed “4”).. Always with the sprocket warning-light lit. Ford workshop wants 1000£ to fix it, at least. But the solution was simple, if you are normally handy and can spare an evening. Everyone think durashift is complicated, complicated and more complicated, BUT THIS IS NO ROCKET SIENCE!! The problem was the shift actuator (see picture 1). The shaft from the gearbox that is connected to the actuator was stuck. It should be possible to turn and pull, if normal. So I disconnected the gearbox shaft from the actuator (one screw), and discovered that the gearbox shaft then was possible to turn, but the actuator was stuck (motor no 1. The one with the white plastic ball joint). I connected 12v to the actuator motor (motor 1. Pin 1 and 6) but the motor was only "humming". It was really stuck. I removed the actuator from the gearbox (4 screws). Then I removed the actuator motor no.1 (four screws, se picture 2.) but the actuator was still stuck. It was not possible to push and pull the slider (that now should be really easy to move, as the motor now was gone). I took a big screwdriver and bent it loose, and discovered then that the rack was stuck in its plastic slide surface (I don’t know the correct English word) inside the actuator housing. The plastic was a just little deformed but enough to get the rack to stuck really hard. I drilled a hole in the closed end of the “plastic slide surface” (se picture 3.) and then a bigger hole (see picture 4) to see well and to be able to put in some tool. Now I saw a little “bump” in the plastic surface (and some dirt). I took a 16mm reamer to make the plastic surface smooth (picture 4.). Now the rack was sliding nice and easy. If you can’t borrow a 16mm reamer you sure can use a sharp knife or a file or a Dremel or something similar. I put a plastic cap over the drilled hole and glued it (picture 5). I mounted the actuator, and the gearbox is working as new. It feels so good! Cost? Nothing! Some tips: DON’T turn the motor when you have removed it from the actuator!!!!! It has position sensors in it, and needs to match the position of the rack!! Make a mark on the rack before you bend it lose, it must match the position of the motor when you mount them together. I am not really sure what causes this, but plastic deformation over time is nothing new. But more likely I think the problem is water. As the plastic slide tube is pointing upwards I guess a small amount of water have come between the plastic tube and the aluminum housing. Either has it there frozen to ice and therefore expanded to a “bump” in the plastic, but more likely it has there caused corrosion on the aluminum which expands to a “bump” inside the plastic tube. As I glued the cap I assume no more water can enter, to cause more problems. Greetings from Sweden.