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The 1.8 Zetec Flex Fuel (Petrol/LPG) did have a modified cilinder head. The modifications to the cilinder head basically only consists of machining the valve seats area and installation of harder/more durable valve seat inserts to reduce valve seat regression. Despite the more durable valve seats the seats will still wear relatively quick. On the 1.8 Zetec LPG engine It is recommended to check the valve adjustment and if necessary adjust it every other service. At some point it will no longer be possible to adjust the valve clearance. This may well be the case on the vehicle you test drove. Excessive valve regression can only be solved by a complete engine head rebuild. In case of excessive valve regression the engine may currently still run fine on petrol but it may not in the near future. Next to this you must consider that the LPG system installed on these cars is pretty outdated. The technology is pretty old and It does not have a valve lubrication system to reduce valve/valve seat wear. Most currently available LPG conversion systems are much more advanced and reliable. When buying this car you have to calculate the costs of a cilinder head rebuild which can be pretty expensive. Personally I would just seach for a similar petrol version.

Kevin Bridges is brilliant! His accent is a wee bit 'thick' right enough though

No need to swear, that's bad attitude cheerio, I'll know if I get a reply you haven't deleted your account lol

The top of the airbox is rubber so I think the mark you can see is where the bonnet insulation rests on top of it. The top of the airbox is still open so air gets in from the front

Cheers for that Lenny mate! Where would that switch go? I was thinking of getting one like on the RS models. Picture attached. Just sent a message to Tezza on here to see if he will be able to help me in the future to get them working with the FOB.👍

this is what any diesel focus owner could do with, it fits between your primer and fuel line to high pressure fuel pump. so when priming your pushing any air through to pump and out the return pipe to tank. makes priming a doddle to do on 1.6tdci mk2 and mk3 . made it up out some old dpf fluid kit, and a high pressure fuel blanking off kit . drilled hole through the purple blank. fits perfectly. also good for 1.8 tdci on the return connector on pump(with purple blank off ) to suck air out of system

Maybe worth checking fordpartsuk.com for a price on them aswell there genuine dealership I've found them sometimes cheaper than my local dealership too. Mirror Switch: http://fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_focus_electricheatedfolding_mirror_switch_f_1472023.htm Left Side power fold mirror unit: http://fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_focus_lh_electricheated_foldback_mirror_from_2009_to_2011_f_1698918.htm Right Side power fold mirror unit: http://fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_focus_rh_electric_heated_foldback_mirror_from_2009_to_2011_f_1698917.htm The cost of the mirrors are not likely to drop any time soon because the mk3 focus has exactly the same mirror units as the mk2.5

Yup, I tried programming my current remote in the car (serveral times) but the current remote seems to be dead, since nothing happens when I press any buttons still. Yes, I have changed batteries twice but to no avail. But I ordered a new remote yesterday so hopefully that will work. I will return when I get it in a few days and report if it works! Thanks for the information on WD40/white lithium grease as well. Thanks for now and Happy New Year guys! :-)

I use afermarket HID lights in combination with projector headlights for about 12 Years now without any major problems. I used them on my focus MK1, Focus MK2 and Focus MK3. The only problems I ever had in 12 Years were 2x a defective HID ballast and 2X a defective HID bulb. I currently use a set of 35 Watt 4300K aftermarket HID lights in combination with a set of aftermarket Sky-Wing headlights. These headlights have H7 projectors which are prepared for H7 HID bulbs. These headlights are not cheap but in my opinion definetely worth every penny. The light output and beam pattern of these projector headlights can be compared with OEM HID lights. My headlight setup is fully legal. I live in the Netherlands and the Dutch law does not require automatic headlight height adjustment or headlight washers. The only regulation is that the beam pattern must comply to the applicable standard and the lights are not allowed to blind other traffic. Correctly installed/adjusted projector headlights with HID bulbs fully comply to these regulations. About 99% of all aftermarket HID bulbs and ballasts that are sold in Europe and the UK are made in Asia. These are often just Chinese or Korean products that ere rebranded with a European/UK brand name. Because of this I decided to buy my HID ballasts and bulbs from Ebay instead of an expensive European seller. I only use H7 HID bulbs with a metal base. These are generally higher quality and easier to install than the H7 HID bulbs with a plastic base. I always have 2 spare ballasts and 2 spare H7 HID bulbs on stock. This way I can replace a defective ballast or bulb immediately.

Firstly thanks. As for exhausts first tips were for temp as they didnt have these in stock. So was going to be changed in regards.the phase 1 st alloys will now be winter use. once summer comes the new ones are going to be sprayed & used then only. Re powerfold mirrors. You will need 1. a pair of powerfold mirrors 2. Switch ( dont have to use the same type. Can use mk3 type which on mirror adjust toggle type. On mine i had to add 3 wires to door module drivers side. But later Tezza found a better route to do this.by only using 1 wire. You then need to enable it in ecu either thru elm327 or fords. But at this stage it will still only fold when switch is pressed on the door. In order to powerfold you need to enable via using ucds programme.which uses credits to proceed . My mate did this for me. ( Tezza on ffoc). I hope this gives you some idea whats needed. Bear in mind i bought mirror at £65 each off ebay which was a steel than the switch around £45. I used my stock casing & had to buy puddle lamp bulbs. Powerfold morrors might cost you around £100 each used on ebay if your lucky. Yunii Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

I like the view from the office window AKA truck windscreen, this morning.

Ooh your poor car! I just pay the few quid for delivery if i cant fit it in the boot. Usually get it dropped off for free though for being a good customer! I think someone might be overfilling your fuel tank!

The wiring loom going into the hatch from the roof has a tendency for the insulation on the wires to get brittle with time, this results in the wires snapping and shorting over, causing problems with the boot electrics. Common symptoms are- Rear wiper not returning to it's park position on the intermittent wipe function. The high-level (third) brake light does not function. The boot lock opens itself when the engine is running leading on later to the boot lock not releasing when the interior button or keyfob button are pressed due to the lock solenoids burning out because of the constant power via a short circuit. Rear demister element stops working.

Finally its goodbye to my cherished mk1.5 2.0 esp, after 9 memorable yrs with bullet proof reliability & lots of fun,i welcome to my mk2.5 titanium. old & new car this is what i had before Please each pics will be at different stages. dmb gel badges led number plates led sidelights car parked in front of mates ST2 MK3 focus badge euro reverse light shown here with clear bulb later replaced with cree red led bulb engine bay,nothing to brag about as its a 1.6 cree reverse light bulb just arrived ,powerfold/puddle lights door mirrors led bulbs ,better than early pic & more brighter ST225 ALLOYS Bright white bulbs & fogs cree led red fog bulb [/ URL] home made mod to protect car doors from wall scrapes yunii

have you ever been pull over with it loaded

The signs are dirty at the minute, it's the wet mud and road salt that flicks up off of all the tyres causing a fine mist that coats them, and we haven't had any heavy rain to wash them recently. I suppose it may even be someone's job to give them a wipe over now and then. I find them a bit difficult to read at night as well though, number plates as well, things all seem fuzzier in the dark. I tend to use sat nav rather than road signs in unfamiliar areas at night myself.

Converting a NASP engine into a Turbo engine is not simple and will cost a lot of money. As said there are ways you can get a bit more power out if it but again to get any decent performance gains you will still be spending a lot of money for a small increase. Turbo cars are much easier to tune and get extra power out at relative cost. The money you would spend making it a turbo you could easily buy a better standard turbo car and then tune that up in time to get more power.

Cheers Phil. I will keep an eye out for one then if i dont need to buy the soundproofing too!

One possible big downside is it might be quite easy to bump into the towing car if you are a bit slow putting in the clutch, or press the throttle too much! Not really suitable for automatic transmissions either. I would not advise it after a fuel pump change or similar unless it had been well primed with diesel, spinning an un-lubricated pump up to normal speed could damage it. Also do not use it as a substitute for trying to fill the filter, for the same reason. But to shift a stubborn little air pocket in the pump, it should be fine. Glad to hear you got it working. I remember how frustrating it was for me 4 years ago.

Hi there, I have a 2005 MK2 Focus and am looking to replace the original stereo with the new one in the facelifted mk2 focus. What would this involve? I understand I need a new curved fascia but I believe that's all? Would it just be a straight swap of stereos? Also, i'm struggling to find a curved fascia. Anybody know where i could obtain one. Many thanks.

Thanks for all the info, it seems a good quality white bulb is a bit like the holy grail. I'll have to keep searching.

As above. There will always be a slight colour difference because of the different materials being painted.

depending where in worcestershire you are,next time just borrow my pipe.

Good Ol tug round the block works great not sure of any downsides probably not too bad since you're not doing it so often, a lot of the garages near me do it as well. Glad you got it working :D

Ideal if you have factory fitted alarm aswell as folding mirrors I suppose😅 mine's just blank as standard, I've a Clifford G5 fitted not factory system.

You should get that patented. I'd buy one ;)

Its very common to have a slight variation on the plastics. My wifes silver Punto had the same noticable issue. I dont know if its to do with the substrate or the fact that the plastics are sprayed separately and the colour match of the paint is fractionally off. Its like if you have a single panel resprayed, if they dont blow it in to the next panel you will see the difference in certain light conditions. Have you had the car from new? Just wondered if its had any additional paintwork after its left the factory.

Glay they replaced like for like! The last thing you want is them putting the rear end back to standard. After all your hard work. Colour match looks good too 👍 Take it easy on the back. Plenty of rest is needed. Dont want future problems. Nothing worse than back pain.

loving the seats fella and look so much more comfy

Ha. Mountune are very good but i cant help feeling that kit is more about making money than it all being needed for 20bhp. I think it might have been Stef123 or Iantt that said the only thing with the Bluefin is that there are a few versions of ecu software for our model so it depends on which software the Bluefin was designed for. I would have thought Superchips would be aware of that though. Pumaspeed do a diy remap too, theirs is called Max'd Out. Not sure if it can be reverted back to standard come service time like the Bluefin though. You wouldnt want a Ford Tech updating the software and losing your remap!

That white stuff looks like spray grease to me. Sent from my SM-G930F

I'm going for an edge/lip mount on the tailgate. in RF terms not to most efficient, but it will leave the car undamaged once removed. I can't bring myself to risk mag mounts again, even the three footed ones.

yeah buddy they ordered from same place as me and fitted all to my standard! and thanks buddy its what a was going for Exactly mate! because Adrian flux replaces like for like they did that and as above you seen my case a didnt want a massive pay out to get a new car a wanted a like for like product and glad i got it back! alot of work into it i said to his insurance do you even know how much work i put into this car a said just 5days before a spent 11hours cleaning it claybar glaze wax etc too! yeah 4 ppl were in the car at the time but one didnt get hurt (he was a heavy set lad so took impact better i guess) but rest of us got soft neck and back tissue damage been a few months now and im still sore from my back now asked docs said it takes upto 18month to fully heal the spine! Defo buddy so glad a got it back! had a hyundai i10 for 2months!

Just a thought but what about using hose clamps on all pipes before removing the filter, then fill filter up with diesel and in theory there should be very little air in the lines as the fuel should not draw back into the tank etc. Then it should I use should start fairly easy?? This is a job I really ought to do on mine sooner rather than later as I have no idea when it was last changed and all these horror stories about getting them started after makes me put off doing it lol

The way I got mine going (1.8, but can be just as awkward), was to use a priming bulb or handpump in the line into the filter (the line from the tank), to ram fuel into the filter and though that into the pump. Partially release the pipe on the outlet side of the filter to allow any air to escape, then refit and pump hard before cranking. Keep repeating until it runs. This is a Ford recommended system, and it reduces the risk of introducing dirt into the pump or injectors, as most of the job is done prior to the filter, so it removes any particles. The injection pump is after the filter. It is almost completely unable to suck air, so once air reaches it, it must be aided by pumping fuel into it. There is no tank pump. I definitely do not recommend touching any of the high pressure (rigid metal) pipes or fittings. The high pressure side is self priming, and any interference here is a good way to get dirt or swarf into the injectors, or cause leaks. Once the main pump gets a good supply of fuel, it will work fine, and suck more from the tank, and push it through to the injectors. There are return pipes from each injector and the pump to the tank, that will vent any air in the high pressure side. As Focusoap says, do not crank for more than a few seconds, rest it for a minute or so between attempts, and keep charging the battery. Better to take a bit longer than to wreck the starter motor or battery. I do not like easy-start except in real emergencies, on diesels. There is a small risk of damage to glowplugs or even injectors by the uncontrolled ignitions in the cylinders. These ignitions are likely to happen well before top dead center, due to the high compression ratio. They could turn into damaging detonations (pinking).

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Thank you for your comments. To be honest, it's perfectly safe and I only transport a short distance. I've fixed rope hooks under the pallet to fasten down the boards using ropes. No merchant would want to drop off half a dozen boards, so this works perfectly well for me. I'm not recommending anyone else use my idea, but merely showing that it is possible to transport large sheets safely without a van. Necessity being the mother of invention and all that, I had a problem and found an easy way to solve it. Regards David

Just read from start to finish Yunii. What a great transformation your car has had. Im glad you changed the first exhaust tips they looked awful. Looks ten times better now with the 4" slash. Glad you got the more upto date ST wheels too, look forward to seeing them on. The one thing that has caught my interest the most is the auto folding in mirrors. Not many people do this and would be a massive advantage for me, as im currently having to do this manually every day. (Tight road) They also look very modern with the puddle lights in them too. Could you please guide me in the right direction how to do this and whats needed? I noticed you bought a button to fold them in. I wouldnt need this. I would like them to fold in and out when locking and unlocking the car. Will be much appreciated. Regards Mike.

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Ordered some bicycle fenders on eBay shipped via ParcelMotel, Looks like there Christmas Congestion has now cleared 😅 package looks like a huge poo😮😣😥😣😯😲😦

3.5hrs to go, not that I'm counting. Lol

My fiesta that I have now is going to be the last car that I will own it's now nearly four years old I have had it six months now I love this car in every way I wish I had bought one ten years back then again looking back I would not have had the money. I watched the breakfast news this morning learner drivers are being allowed to use the motorways I don't use the motorway that much is it a good idea? John.

That looks spot on mate and probably something I would go for. Looks very ST type. No worries mate get them when you can. Weather isnt great atm. Thats not bad that atall. Cant argue with that price.

First mods completed thanks to my wife and son Christmas presents Before After And finally shark fin aerial replacement

Yeah. As above. OK you use your car as a workhorse But builders yards offer Free delivery! !!!!!!!! Is there a Selco builder's warehouse near you? Where the biggest flaw after the rated weight limit of the roof rack is using g syring/rope. Pure stupid madness and totally irresponsible. STRAPS is what you should be using. Your 'modified' pallet. Those end plates are next to useless. I know the weight of 8x4 plasterboard and ply. I delivered the stuff for Selco in a 7.5 ton truck. Sorry if it sounds like I'm having a go but I'm giving friendly advice which could save your bacon.

an emergency stop above 40mph with that contraption would leave your plywood / plasterboard sitting on the car in front lol. and those roof bars are rated at around 25kgs , me thinks you got a bit more than that on it :-D i sense the fail is strong with this set-up.......

Officially 100K miles or ten years, get it changed at 50K miles.

If you could get UK map software you'd be ok. Probably also needs an aerial upgrade too but that's straightforward.

Hi the conversion from Mk2 to Mk2.5 Ford audio unit is pretty simple. I did it in around 45mins. You need the Oval fascia, and brackets for the new unit, as the new unit screws in. I found the screws were the pain to sort, as ford dont stock them (or say they dont). I finally went to B+Q and bought a small packet of the fattest, and shortest self tappers, and used them. This website has step by step pictures of the process with Ford part numbers if the stuff you need, so you dont need to confuse the Fords storeman. hope that helps..., BTW, I am sure that the unit you have seen on E-bay will also need a curved fascia as well. http://www.jamessimpson.co.uk/focus-mk2-facelift-stereo-into-preface-lift