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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/21/2017 in all areas
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3 points
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Has anyone found there expansion bottle cap to be tight, I mean *really* tight? First time I noticed it I just about got it undone with my hands but I was very close to resort to tools. Since then I've had to give it a lot of grunt again to the extent that today the cap came off in my hands but the pressure-sealing body remained in the tank! I got the body out with adjustable pliers but I can see this happening again if I don't do something about it. It seems a widely available part, copies of which are also produced by many other manufacturers, and so it made me wonder given such availability whether they are a regularly needed item so thought I'd ask here. (Edit: I've seen an application list and there are hundreds of Fords and Volvos on it so perhaps that's why there's such a market for them!) I am assuming it's the cap (and not the bottle) at fault and that perhaps one of the o-rings has swollen somewhat hence why it is remaining so tightly wedged in? There were no other obvious indications as to what it might be.2 points
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Thanks pal. Pretty happy with the results. I'm still getting used to the colour change but i do like it. It still may come off at some stage but for now it's staying. Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk2 points
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Like the title suggests if you use the code off55 you will get 55% off car parts at https://www.gsfcarparts.com/ not sure how long its going to last but could be handy for some of you.1 point
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Hi, just a bit of advice, looks like my clutch needs replacing on my Mk3 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI 55 plate and the first garage i asked has quoted me £800, but that is with some plate he said i also needed that absorbed vibration etc between the clutch and the gearbox. Can anyone tell me what this plate is called, i think he said dual something or other but i was in shock at the thought of losing £800 i wasn't listening properly. Cheers1 point
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Hi all i have recently purchased a 2008 Mondeo titanium 2.0tdci and so have joined this forum and hope to get some answers to a few problems with this car Understand this isn't the page to do it it is just to say Hi So, Hi1 point
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Incidentally, rather than buy a replacement from Ford I'll get one from Gates instead and see if that last me any longer. (Of course, for all I know Gates makes the Ford ones!)1 point
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Get some silicone grease and remove the O rings, give em a good coating then put the rings back on, then grease the inside of the plastic tank. Since mine jammed I've been removing and checking my cap once a fortnight, re-greasing on every check... just don't want that to happen again.1 point
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Thanks everyone for all the responses. New cap it is. I suppose one has to be forgiving of new-fangled technology of an expansion bottle cap... I even had to replace a coolant hose today because it had a metal section in it that had started to corrode. This car was made in 2013 yet some of its design choices seem to be more fitting of 1917!1 point
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This has been posted before, apparently it's a common problem. Ford service use silicon grease on the threads.1 point
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i have definitely read a few posts on this forum (or might be focus forum) about this exact same problem. it seems a lot of people experience this1 point
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Something simple for a good not perfect result would be G3 compound. I honestly can't recommend a compound/polish/pad without working on it myself but for a manufacture in general you can't go far wrong with menzerna products1 point
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Interesting. I reckon it must be the o-ring as I can't imagine what else could cause this as the hard plastic isn't going to change shape, but there may well be something in the coolant that causes the rubber to swell. That said, it'd be a pretty poor design fault and surely would affect everyone.1 point
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In essence the IS300H is a good car but it would be a Great car if it had a proper auto box. A turbo and more compliant suspension and if it was a plug in hybrid too then it'd probably be the best car in the world.1 point
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That's the normal way most do it as it so much work. I hated the duel mass as we had to do two within 55000 miles on my sons car and each time I had to renew starter motors as the dust from the clutch gets in to them and screws them up sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that what the DMF are all about we have got rid of the car now .1 point
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Cheers for the replies, i wont be getting the garage to do it now as i have found a mobile mechanic willing to fit the clutch for £130 which sounds really cheap but better than what the garage quoted. I don't think its the mass flywheel as that doesnt look like something the stops vibration, i could be wrong, the garage did say it had some sort of plastic bushes in it and the flywheel doesnt appear to have those.1 point
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Replacing with the one above solved my issues :) just swapped the adapter under the aerial and job was a good'un cheers guys :)1 point
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That's a different issue though, not related to different model variants. All Fiesta variants will be made on the same production line. It's just an extension of trim levels. Each trim level is becoming more unique. Also most of the stock pile are probably VW diesels, lol.1 point
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Yeah, seems strange the public can pop down halfords for a can and do what they like , but for me to use aircon at work i need training and certification. And then big fines if I'm caught releasing gas to the atmosphere, or even regassing a system to check for leaks .1 point
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It's a job that most people think is harder than it is (myself included until i did the first one). If you're not at all a practical person then fair enough, but you don't really need to know much about car electrics if you use common sense and follow the advice and guides freely available. We don't like to see people paying unnecessarily on here and I've heard of far too many bad stories of halfords. Mainly because most of their staff are inexperienced. You get to go careful on your trims then too. :)1 point
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That's one helluva wrapping job kpg. Absolutely excellent and great colour choice. My cap tipped to you young man.1 point
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Happy for you haha, free is always a bonus! 😂1 point
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I wouldn't let Halfords do anything to my car. Hard wiring is easy imo. Just identify the fuse you want to piggyback then get creative with hiding the cables.1 point
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don't think it really matters, just pop to Halfords and ask them if you can try a couple out. I cant remember whats on my Mk2.5 but I added an oversized blade to the rear to clear an extra 1.5inchs at the top of the window for my rear dashcam, halfords were more than happy to let me try, I think I used the excuse that someone had put a different arm on so its not the same as what is on their system . the only problem is remember what it was I got before, I should just write it down I suppose but that would be to simple.1 point
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No need to remove the mirror, just angle it down to it's lowest position and you'll see the tabs quite clearly. Insert a screwdriver into both tab points and push the tabs down with just enough force to disengage them then the cap will come off. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk1 point
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ELMConfig is for the Focus Mk2/2a, so that is up to about 2011. I am pretty sure the C-Max will be the same, with some minor variants. So I doubt if ELMConfig will work properly on a 2015 model. Focccus is for the Mk3 variants. There are often problems with adding new hardware later, in some cases Ford will only fit wiring looms for the hardware actually fitted in the factory. These software packages can only enable or disable features where all the needed wires and software are in place. There are loom sections from the door modules to the mirrors where a few pennies could be saved by leaving out a wire or two. The software in the BCM can also vary.1 point
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To be honest, although 800 quid is 800 quid, that seems like a decent price including fitting a new DMF. To be honest it's usually the DMF that lets go before the clutch on most diesels. There are a couple of other items that usually get done at the same time (whilst the engine and gearbox are out of the car). If you ask the garage to list out all the parts in writing and post it on here, we can check if they're doing all the bits they should be.1 point
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Wrap is now complete. Full body pics to come at the weekend or you can check my Instagram @darthharrison Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk1 point
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...just got to find a nice wifi source now to download my spotify music too...1 point
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nah the only thing im having trouble with at the moment is turning the ***** thing off... i have to turn it off manually ideally id like it to switch off once key has been removed. i flattend the battery on install, its juicy1 point
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Well don't ask how but I managed to get the paint out from the stone chip so it was just primer, I've now touched the chip up to below the paint level, so tomorrow all being well with the weather I'll give it a coat of lacquer 👍🏼1 point
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it does sound like as suggested above. When the wheels are straight ahead, the rack is not centered because the track rod ends are screwed on a different amount at each end of the rack or something is bent (and maybe bodged up adjustments made to try to compensate for the damage). it all sounds like there is something untoward that someone has tried to bodge &/or totally incompetent workmanship (like someone replaced the track rod ends and had no clue what they were doing). Could be quite simple fix if it is just the track rod ends are not screwed on equally on the rack or it could be something more problematic if there has been damage and all this was an attempt to compensate for it/cover it up.1 point
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Top tip with Android phones - Back Up Regurlarly to the Google account, that way you won't ever lose any contacts or settings and make it far easier to transfer to new phones on upgrade or if replacing a broken phone.1 point
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Very helpful bunch so far learnt a lot already. And learning more about the brand so much so am looking at the new IS300H f sport Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk1 point
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The st will be next year [emoji6] Few plans still in the pipeline: Side skirt splitters TRC headlight brows New headlights possibly Gel badges Maybe RS spoiler1 point
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I've had Bluefin on my car for over 6 months with no problems. The advantage over Mountune is that it is removable for service or sale. If I had to go again though I'd go for Revo as it's also removable, reportedly smoother power delivery and has an upgrade path to stage 2 and 31 point
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What's wrong with going for a map that's been written, tested and proven over time on many cars?1 point
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Hi Nico, I've got the exact same problem. I had an auto electrician look at it and he said it might be the switch, or the selector (?) He never came back with prices (he was a bit of a WOFT generally actually...) so, as I'd got warrantee, I just kept a watching brief. I've had the car a year now and had no ill effects. It seems worse in damp weather so if I knew where to spray I'd get some switch cleaner. It's supposed to flash when you squeeze the lock-switch in 'P', if it doesn't it'll flash when you move the gearstick. (That's how mine is anyway) I've become a bit anal about it, often refusing to drive away until I can get it to show 'D' or 'R' before moving off - just working the lock-switch alone is often enough - but, as I say, no ill effects if I let it flash. Sometimes it sorts itself out, sometimes it starts flashing (again) en route. From what I've read on here, the torque converter box (technically 3 speed + overdrive) fitted to this age of Focus is quite old and has been strengthened, modified and adapted over the years. The result is an unsophisticated but reliable auto married to a similar engine! I love mine I hope I've reassured you, you have me! "We are not alone..." Good luck1 point
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As mentioned early, make sure the correct type of battery is fitted. If a 'regular' lead acid battery is fitted, the SmartCharge system will boil it over time and you'll have another dead battery.1 point
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