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Why does he have Fiesta ST in his Bio too. Honestly if the car is not an ST don't add an ST badge to it. If it's a zetec S or something then sure add the "S" badge but never a ST one.

Quite the opposite actually. The air-con compressor is a self lubricating part and must be running to be lubricated. Just like a turbo. If there's no gas and you are running the system, it will seize. Probably with a lot of heat too.

There must have been a leak otherwise it wouldn't have needed regassing. The leak prior to refilling could have been slight enough that it was unable to hold high/working pressure yet still not fall below the low pressure threshold of operation hence the poor performance. When leaks are suspected but not identified it is common practice for a fluorescent dye to be added to the new gas; a UV lamp can then be used to help determine where it is leaking out from. Given it was the compressor that failed I think the fault lies (or lay!) within it - possibly due to lack of lubrication as discussed.

it might only be running on 3 cylinders (which would cause it to vibrate) but there are many many things which would cause that from minor to major. Hole in a piston, a problem with the valves, spark plug blew out because it wasn't done up etc etc etc

In the old days we used a dollop of belt jam, I kid you not.

I don't like finding out that Edd China is leaving Wheeler Dealers due to the new production company wanting to cut costs by reducing the workshop segments of the show. The show is all about working on cars, cutting this back will ruin the whole thing. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Looks good but it's not an ST so shouldn't have the badge.

Is the "ST" badge the look?

Hello Just joined with my 1996 Mk6 Escort 1.6 16v auto Ghia. 25,000 miles from new!

Hey just picked up my new mustang last Thursday first ford I have owned looking to meet new people and doing some events.

Not sure it quite works like that. I would take it off if your engine is naturally aspirated as said above. It's not as effective as your stock airbox. Your essentially sucking in more dirt to your engine for no reason

Although I've never done it I think the idea is that you warm the badge with the hairdrier to soften the glue under the badge. You then use a fine-ish fishing line - garotte style - to separate the badge from the car. Think flossing but with a longer length of line. Work slowly and re-warm when the line starts to drag too much Good luck

The car is naturally aspirated, only turbo versions are the 1.0L ecoboost and the 1.6L in the ST etc. Maybe check your airbox and intake to see if there are any cracks, even if it's not a turbo, you will still have a fair amount of air being sucked in, just seems strange how it stops after 2,000 rpm.

Whenever I have thoroughly tested for leaks, we use nitrogen and make sure it holds pressure, therefore any leaks doesn't harm anything. We then use leak detection spray (just soapy water) to see any bubbles indicating a nitrogen leak. However I have never re-gassed anything on a car, just normal AC units. As you said, I doubt the garage would've over/under gassed it. The refrigerant gets weighed in. As I said in my first post, refrigerant doesn't just vanish. The AC system must be closed so that the refrigerant cant escape into the atmosphere as it's so damaging (greenhouse gasses etc.). The compressor has probably siezed as there was no lubrication as there was no refrigerant in the system due to a leak, however small it might be. Chances are you tested it just after they gassed it, therefore most of it still in the system and holding pressure so turned on. Give it a few weeks and it will be even weaker at removing heat than it is now.

My sister in law and Dads focus had an air con pipe split, both the same pipe, nothing as dramatic as that though. £300 is ridiculous for the work involved too

To fix it depends in the UK not really but abroad yeah, I've had no aircon for 2 years as it's empty (I think) getting it regassed and serviced at Ford next month, I had to do without it going Ford Fair last year and I really wish I had it as it was absolutely awful windows down, but for the majority of the time doing without would be fine.

It is definitely a worthwhile and interesting discussion to have so don't feel any negativity from the err... negativity!

Thanks for all the replies. It was merely out of curiousity as to whether it was a simple OBD modification or similar. I am no expert whatsoever on engines other than the fact they make the car move when fed with petrol! Thanks for all the replies though, learnt a lot about my car straight away!

Manifold injection doesn't preclude the use of start-stop. What it does preclude though is starterless (re)start where directly-injected fuel is added then ignited to get the piston moving again without the need for an electric starter to create the motion. It doesn't even need maximum compression to have occurred as the aim is to just create movement from an explosion. That is unfortunately not the system that Ford use though. (Not that I am saying this helps the OP in any way - I think the effort involved in attempting to retrofit it could be quite substantial)

I am not so sure of the U1900 error. It can happen as a result of connecting & setting up the diagnostic system. On its own it is not very significant, unless it keeps happening very often. My top suspect is the wiring from the Crankshaft sensor to the PCM. Then probably the camshaft sensor. These two sensors are continuously compared, I think, and faults in one can be confused with faults in the other. I had Crankshaft sensor errors on my last Vauxhall, and ended up replacing both to cure the fault. One missing bit of data is which module all the DTCs were in. If they were all in the PCM, then I think it has to be one of those sensors (a faulty replacement CKP is improbable but not impossible), or its wiring, or failing that, the pcm itself (unlikely!) If some DTCs were in the IC, then maybe communications problems could be the cause. But the reported CKP circuit faults could well cause the invalid rpm & odometer data. It might be worth trying to run the car with either one of the camshaft or crankshaft sensors disconnected. It should be able to run on either alone, in reduced power mode probably. A disconnected sensor can be better then a faulty one sometimes.

I am not sure how you reached that conclusion from the discussion, particularly as you say it is very difficult to do given the method used to (re)fill these systems. Furthermore, there are both low and high pressure cut-outs on an air conditioning system and so the fact it was allowed to run at all suggests to be that it was within spec pressure wise.

It's only the Direct Line "brand" which isn't on comparison websites. In fact every "Not on comparison websites" insurer, is actually on every comparison website, just under a different name. e.g.: Privilege = Direct Line Quote Me Happy = Aviva They're not going to cut themselves out of market share, lol. I always use comparison sites to get a gauge of all the underwriters then re-quote through the not on comparison site brand to see if it's any cheaper. I'm currently with Aviva after Quote Me Happy kept floating to the top of the comparison sites. Aviva were then cheaper than Quote Me Happy as Aviva don't pay the comparison sites commission.

If you suspect a hole in the piston then you will need to do a compression test hope it's just a coil pack or plug

Could be the coil pack or fault spark plug

amen brother haha

thats sounds like a good idea that, say your coming up to a busy roundabout you need to focus on the traffic not the music.

Depends on the noise to be honest does it knock when you rev it up and the let the revs drop if it does I expect you have ran it low on oil. So my first check would be the oil level. If the oil level is ok when was it last changed. To be honest we need more information on the noise is it a knocking or tapping noise does it occur when under load or when you come off the throttle.

Obviously you'll be wanting to sell that sony sat nav facia won't you? ;) Lucky swearword! :D From my sat nav thread, the ACM are completely interchangable mate so you should be on to a winner.

there is an audible difference between Shell and BP in my car and if I use supermarket its even louder, I get a small bump in mpg as well. I normally always use vpower now and sometimes ill even add a bit of 2 stroke in to it.

it would be interesting to know why it does it and why its worse on a corner. I mean I know its the ABS but I cant think of any other car I have driven that has done that. I mean even my old Astra didn't do it albeit that horrendous crunching sound we get in the focus may very well have been the engine falling off its mount on an astra

I think the U1900 code is the significant factor. It sounds like the instrument cluster problem that Tdci-Peter has described a number of times.

Hi Bannko, Could you possibly PM me the details of what I need to unlock the sat nav on my 66 plate Focus ST. I can get the long/lat info but nothing else. Many thanks

nice one i love a good mustang me

Hi Welcome nice

Bannko would it be possible to provide details on how to do this? Got 16 plate Zetec-s without nav

Thanks for that reply. You know. The €550 extra for the nav would probablt be better spent on a new phone. Yes, Decision made. New phone and sync3 in car. Thanks

Me too!! I love my 405, but modern Peugeots are just pieces of plastic with dodgy electrics.

H I was told that the heads warp on the 3 cylinder ecoboost. Im sorry i was not of much help. Google Ecoboost Headgasket failure and you will find lots Jamie

its always worse if you do it on a corner, on a straight its a donk, but when turning full lock and accelerating it sounds like the engine has fallen of its mounts,

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The Ford Nav is really good, I have been very impressed with it as well as the integration with the audio commands... That being said, when im in the car I have my iPhone plugged in and am pretty much always using CarPlay, with this engaged you can only use Apple Maps (or google maps ifits Android Auto I guess). I can count on 1 hand the amount of times Ive actually used the Ford Nav, whereas Ive used Apple Maps a lot (purely because the phone is connected and im playing music through it). Yes, I can disable CarPlay and use the phone as a medai device, but honestly, with Siri available in the car and with how well I find CarPlay to work......why would I! :-) Im not saying the Ford Nav is bad, far from it its really good, but, if you want to save some cash, then you have an excellent substitute with Apple CarPlay or Google Maps I haven't actually tried an Android in the car so cant speak for how well Google Maps works in it. Hope that helps.... Im really surprised that the Nav isnt a standard thing, as you can see by the UK specs, its available from a really low trim level Lat

As Wilto says, WD40 or whilst the engine is running, you can drip a small amount of water onto the belt, if the noise vanishes then it's time to get a new belt.

I reckon it's your drive belt/ pulleys, spray some WD-40 around the drive belt tensioner area and see if that cures that bird singing. It won't hurt the bird so the RSPB need not know. 😋

no

Assuming it wasn't fitted anyway, Stop/Start uses a different starter motor. Also I don't think the 1.25 was ever meant for stop start, so it will probably do it more harm than good if you somehow got it working. The light is there just so they can use the same dash across multiple models.

Am I the only one who was expecting a cycle crashed into the back of a Focus?!

Managed to sort the sat nav in my Grand C-Max this weekend, many thanks to Bannko who has been a great help throughout the process!! I now have full factory sat nav functionality and it was easy to do!!!

Received my Mustang a week ago already done 1k miles in it love driving it. a few pics of my car on the day I collected it from the show room..

UPDATE: ST seats in today! Sprung for a blue set to match the dash lights. Very happy with them. Door cards came with but one of them was damaged beforehand so I took the silver strip and plonked them on mine. A quick valet and hoover later and jobs a gooden'!

Update: Bulbs arrived this morning. Night Breakers give a very clear and crisp light which certainly brightens up the area better than the stock halogen candles. The highbeam does does look slightly orange in the picture, but projects a nice white light on the roads. Pictures aren't the best as it was 6oC outside and I didn't want to spend a second longer out there than I needed to! - also managed to change my plates over as well. In all, 8 bulbs in the headlights, 4 in the wing mirrors, both roof lights and the 2 in the boot now changed over. Nice little drive today in the Mrs' Focus to walk the pooch and came across this lovely Cortina 1600. Very tidy car!