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Was made by Teckmarx... Never heard of them. But £60 for a clutch doesn't suggest a high quality item. I agree with Unofix, replace the full 3 piece kit while you've got the 'box off.

I really do need to start typing faster. Once again Tom you beat me to the punch line 🤣

If it's just an advisory they may not need replacing yet. Personally, if there's only a £40 premium for the full set of genuine pads & discs, I'd go with them. Otherwise I'm a fan of Pagid. Only basic tools required. If you've got a set of spanners that's pretty much it. You will need some way to push the piston back in. You can buy proper tools for that, but I generally just put a small pry bar between the old inner pad & disc to lever the piston back in. May crack out the G clamp if that doesn't work... (For rear calipers, they must be wound back in due to handbrake mech, but fronts just push straight back)

Yesterday with the help of a mini telescopic mirror I was able to find it hidden. It is the reference that ends in "AC" I checked it, I disconnected it, I ran CRC on it, but it still doesn't work. I'm going to try another one with the same reference to see if it works.

I did my wife's (old) MK2.5 1.8 a few years ago and ended up removing the manifold. Some people reckopn that that can replace the PCV valve and hose by just loosening the manifold but unless you have hands the size of a 6 year old, I'm not sure how feasable it is. Removing the manifold is not technically difficult, it's moretedious than anything (lots of looms to unclip and some of bolts are hidden). I'd definitely recommend getting hold of a couple of images (front and back) of the manifold (ebay listings etc) and at least you can then see exactly where the bolts are.

See Ford Owners Handbook for full details - Page 160 https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/ENUSA_CG3549_KAA_og_201011.pdf

IIRC they won't fold if the mirror switch is left to one side after adjusting the mirror angle. Switch needs to be in the centre position. My Mk2.5 had factory powerfold mirrors and I never needed to reprogram them after the battery was disconnected. I think the procedure for enabling/disabling is to switch ignition on, hold both front window switches up, and then press the right mirror arrow to enable, or the left mirror arrow to disable. Though as I say, never had to do that after just disconnecting the battery myself.

Criminals do their bit towards helping "Net Zero" by using an EV as a getaway car 🤣

Translation please? 😂

Yes, I sometimes get the felling people commenting about the price of a NEW ev's are not looking at the price of a new ICE car. The cheapest Focus is now over £28K and even the most basic Fiesta is over £19K, it feels like prices have gone mad over the last 4 years. Talking about madness today I saw a used Defender for sale at £74995. OK it was 23 plate, but £75K for a secondhand vehicle sheer lunacy.

Sounds very much like the common dry solder joint problem. Your instrument cluster can be repaired and refurbished for around £85 or less. Look on eBay for companies offering a repair of dashboard instrument clusters or @rd457 can probably help.

Personally, I wouldn't entertain buying a car without A/C, even in the depths of winter, with it running, the windows remain clear as the humidity is taken out of the air. I like the fact it 'conditions' the air. My A/C has not been turned off since I got car, and all cars previous are the same. Up to you, if you can cope in a car without it, and have little regard for any resale value, well go with your gut...

name is Rob, ex mil based in Tidworth and needing some help and advice for my wee van, hobbies are ham radio, golf and of course the van. So looking forward to getting some help, giving some if I can and of course just the general chit chat about things that Connect us all. Ok, this is it, i am after some advice on tow bar wiring, I committed to buy a new tow bar and harness and got stuck in so followed the intructions to the letter and all went well until i connected the right indicator to the tow bar wiring and this happened. the right indicator flashes 2 times very fast and then the relay stops ? With no more operation inc the left one, the ignition has to be switched off and on then try left and it does the same? if i un plug the trailer the indicator lights all return to normal operation, (there is only an issue with the indicators all other lights are fine with or without the trailer attached), normal wiring IE: to all cables and buzzer hard wired to the rear left lamp cluster down to the new tow socket ? Not a clue whats going on, Just in case i have been sold the incorrect items may i ask if i need a can bus for a 2013 connect with regards to the above issues apologies for the long intro, but i have been at it for well over 5 hours and still can’t sus this issue out, cheers and again HI? Rob.

hi tomfocus I thought I had given an update but you were right . My brother in law checked it and found they had not tightened it down ( top nut) , problem solved. Why could no one else find the problem? Looking at the price of the body mounting brackets about £6.50 each I ws scammed. once again thanks

https://www.valeoservice.co.uk/en-uk/techassist/search#vin

The Valeo comes in a prettier box... Seriously though, a few years ago there were rumours around some fake or remanufactured LUK kits being sold in the UK. Must admit I can't remember how much truth was in it or what the outcome was. I haven't had any problems fitting LUK clutches for other people, but preferred Valeo myself as they were the original part back in my Peugeot days. Also liked the clutch aligner tool that came free with Valeo kits, though that may have been costed out nowadays. Bizarrely, the '34' LUK part number is for pre-2006. And was replaced by the '33' part number from 2006 onwards. Not sure how they've calculated that. It seems the clutch plates are the same but the slave cylinder is different. Pre-2006 - LuK Clutch Kit LuK RepSet Pro 622 3151 34 (schaeffler.com) Post 2006 - LuK Clutch Kit LuK RepSet Pro 622 3151 33 (schaeffler.com)

Thank you Tom. you don’t know how I have struggled to get this info. not mentioned on Ford’s website or in my owners manual. thankyou again.

@TomsFocus thanks let me know if you find out please.... and why Valeo as a preference? I've always gone LUK for their "Pro" kits.

Are we advising a Clutch kit such as: LUK LUK622315133 LUK622315134 or VALEO VLO834376

Fingers crossed, it ain't pretty!

Indeed, hopefully there hasn't been internal damage from hydrolocking 1 or more cylinders 🤞

I’ve never had to do anything with the powerfold mirrors after battery disconnected etc had to relearn the one-shot windows but nothing with the mirrors

Except VW driveshafts are bolted so easy to remove and keep all the gear oil in the 'box on those... When was the clutch receipt dated out of interest? Does it itemise the clutch parts or list a brand? Might be a budget 3 piece such as Transmech. Definitely one to avoid when sourcing parts yourself.

I'd at least put a new clutch in at the same time as changing the release bearing. You don't want to have to repeat the job again next year. 👍

Hi thanks for the reply no there’s nothing on the negative terminal so I’m guessing I don’t need to reset, everything seems as it should just need to change date and time on the menu

Hello, For those who are having issues with the SYNC4 navigation getting stuck, go to your Ford garage and put them to upgrade to the latest version of sync and also to rewrite the following modules : APIM, ACM, SBDO, BCM. If they refuse to do this, give them the following reference from Ford: SSM 52379 or TSB-24-2034 - Drive mode defaults to normal mode while driving and message displays in the center display screen with or without DTC U0253 stored in the ABS module

The cooling system capacity listed above is for a drain & refill. If you want to flush the system as well then you'll need extra to do that.

I updated my list on the thread when I got the present car last year. Can't see a further update on the horizon - in for first service yesterday and both the service guy and my usual salesperson said " hang on to that, there won't be any more cars like that". The sales guy was actually just in the process of selling their last ever new Fiesta (a white ST).

Certainly does. New Suzuki Swift seems to be getting favourable reviews, not least because it starts under £19k, as does the full ICE version of the Renault Clio. Even £19k though, seems hard to swallow when its not long since cars like this would have started around £12-14k (cheapest Mk 8 Fiesta was £13,695 at launch). But maybe I'm just getting old and behind the times. I came away from my first service yesterday thinking "hmm, I could have bought both my first two cars together (s/h, of course) for the price of that!"😀

Hmm. So maybe I'll order up a condenser so at least with my upcoming week off work I can get the rad pack assembled with all new parts (rad end tank appears to be leaking) and properly fit my PAS cooler and go from there and seek advice from an air con specialist about best way to proceed. If there's any risk of the evaporator in the heater matrix being gone I really don't fancy taking the dash out, but if it's just seals and a dryer then at least I've already got the condenser in place and I won't have to dismantle the front of the car again.

Mk3 Focus's are notorious for minor AC leaks. Bought mine at 5 years old/40k miles with no gas... Replaced the condenser and a holed pressure pipe but it still didn't hold the gas for more than a couple of weeks. Presumably been left open a while. Gave up and bought a Golf instead... AC still works on the Golf 6 years later despite minimal use. If you do want to reinstate on the Fiesta, the pipes should be ok, and the evaporator will hopefully not be rotting from the inside out. So I would just recommend replacing all of the seals on the pipes you keep (not as big job as it sounds), plus the filler valves and then the condenser, drier/accumulator and probably the compressor if the short pipe has been left open for a couple of years, that's probably crusty inside now. Shouldn't be anywhere near a grand to DIY.

Quite normal. There's an electric coolant pump that circulates the coolant when ign off /very hot. . Follow the pipes and you will find it .

How I feel after half an hours drive with air conditioning... A regas every year means the system was already leaking. That's not just from 'low use'. I only ever used AC in the heights of summer and rarely ever needed a regas on any car. I hate the drying feeling of AC so for me it is only for cooling. But then I'm not overly sweaty or carrying wet dogs so condensation was never an issue... Back to the question, I don't reckon you'll get away with just a new condenser.

Twin Independent Variable Cam Timing. This system has hydraulic actuators on the cam pulleys to vary the timing.

Think you need to do a compression test.

Only if your vertically challenged.

Tyre equivalence: Car tyre tips - Pneus Online (tyres-pneus-online.co.uk)

266 threads on the subject of faulty boot handle https://www.fordownersclub.com/search/?q="boot handle"&quick=1&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy

Correct. 👍 The ESTIMATED range is based on the past 100 miles of driving and is projected forward as a "best guess" If in the last 100 miles you have been driving hard, or stuck in slow moving traffic then the car will have used a lot of fuel. If now you are doing some easy steady driving and making good steady progress then the car will be using less fuel.

You need to be using the "vLinker FS" these days with the latest version of FORScan. vLinker FS cable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP The old ELM327(switched) will still work with a 2011 model but to save having to replace it next time you change your car it's better to just get the vLinker FS which is automatic switching, works with all past and present Ford models and is compatible with Windows 11

been down this road a lot and tried and tested and watched all the videos, pedal locks forget, they cut the end of the pedals off. Club locks are useless, they cut through steering wheel and pull them off. Disklock are the only ones I would say are the best. I have one on my car.. fiddly though, if i used my car daily then I probably would just go for a ghost immobiliser.

Parts catalogue suggests the turbo & injectors are the same on the 75 & 90ps models. They were different on the 110ps model (not fitted to Fiesta). I believe the 75ps model was purposely downtuned for either emissions or insurance purposes. 90ps is easily and reliably achievable from that engine.

Two separate wet belts on the Mk3 Only a wet belt for the oil pump on the Mk4

I've never seen any test reports on the different make of wet cambelts. I'd be interested to see the actual results. Of course as already said by Ray (see above) it is not the strength of the belt that is the problem, as most do not snap. The main issue is the belt disintegrating and the bits of belt clogging up the oil pick up strainer.

Vast amounts of confusion over VW cambelt change intervals on the various forums, not least because VW group seem to have different recommendations in different countries, even within Europe. Also recommendations have varied between brand eg VW, Skoda, SEAT, even where the same engine is used. They have historically tended to have 4-5 year/60,000 mile change intervals, however I have seen mention recently of 15 years for the very latest 1.5Tsi engines, provided the car is not being used in "extreme conditions". VW belts are all "dry" however. I've not heard of any change of material used for Ford "wet" belts and the maximum recommended interval is still 10 years, though 7 years as you propose sounds a wise precaution.

The Ford rubber belt lasts the lifetime of the engine. When it fails the engine is dead.

I doubt anyone is going to steal a 24 year old disklok 🤣

Not cheap but they are worth the additional coast. I've had mine about 24 years and it still going strong

Disklok (small) is one of the steering locks I've read that's worth buying, the bars aren't as much of a deterrent.

Too much weight ? 🤣🤣 Someone was just bound to say it 😉