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Was made by Teckmarx... Never heard of them. But £60 for a clutch doesn't suggest a high quality item. I agree with Unofix, replace the full 3 piece kit while you've got the 'box off.

I really do need to start typing faster. Once again Tom you beat me to the punch line 🤣

If it's just an advisory they may not need replacing yet. Personally, if there's only a £40 premium for the full set of genuine pads & discs, I'd go with them. Otherwise I'm a fan of Pagid. Only basic tools required. If you've got a set of spanners that's pretty much it. You will need some way to push the piston back in. You can buy proper tools for that, but I generally just put a small pry bar between the old inner pad & disc to lever the piston back in. May crack out the G clamp if that doesn't work... (For rear calipers, they must be wound back in due to handbrake mech, but fronts just push straight back)

Yesterday with the help of a mini telescopic mirror I was able to find it hidden. It is the reference that ends in "AC" I checked it, I disconnected it, I ran CRC on it, but it still doesn't work. I'm going to try another one with the same reference to see if it works.

I did my wife's (old) MK2.5 1.8 a few years ago and ended up removing the manifold. Some people reckopn that that can replace the PCV valve and hose by just loosening the manifold but unless you have hands the size of a 6 year old, I'm not sure how feasable it is. Removing the manifold is not technically difficult, it's moretedious than anything (lots of looms to unclip and some of bolts are hidden). I'd definitely recommend getting hold of a couple of images (front and back) of the manifold (ebay listings etc) and at least you can then see exactly where the bolts are.

See Ford Owners Handbook for full details - Page 160 https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/ENUSA_CG3549_KAA_og_201011.pdf

IIRC they won't fold if the mirror switch is left to one side after adjusting the mirror angle. Switch needs to be in the centre position. My Mk2.5 had factory powerfold mirrors and I never needed to reprogram them after the battery was disconnected. I think the procedure for enabling/disabling is to switch ignition on, hold both front window switches up, and then press the right mirror arrow to enable, or the left mirror arrow to disable. Though as I say, never had to do that after just disconnecting the battery myself.

Criminals do their bit towards helping "Net Zero" by using an EV as a getaway car 🤣

Translation please? 😂

Yes, I sometimes get the felling people commenting about the price of a NEW ev's are not looking at the price of a new ICE car. The cheapest Focus is now over £28K and even the most basic Fiesta is over £19K, it feels like prices have gone mad over the last 4 years. Talking about madness today I saw a used Defender for sale at £74995. OK it was 23 plate, but £75K for a secondhand vehicle sheer lunacy.

Sounds very much like the common dry solder joint problem. Your instrument cluster can be repaired and refurbished for around £85 or less. Look on eBay for companies offering a repair of dashboard instrument clusters or @rd457 can probably help.

Personally, I wouldn't entertain buying a car without A/C, even in the depths of winter, with it running, the windows remain clear as the humidity is taken out of the air. I like the fact it 'conditions' the air. My A/C has not been turned off since I got car, and all cars previous are the same. Up to you, if you can cope in a car without it, and have little regard for any resale value, well go with your gut...

name is Rob, ex mil based in Tidworth and needing some help and advice for my wee van, hobbies are ham radio, golf and of course the van. So looking forward to getting some help, giving some if I can and of course just the general chit chat about things that Connect us all. Ok, this is it, i am after some advice on tow bar wiring, I committed to buy a new tow bar and harness and got stuck in so followed the intructions to the letter and all went well until i connected the right indicator to the tow bar wiring and this happened. the right indicator flashes 2 times very fast and then the relay stops ? With no more operation inc the left one, the ignition has to be switched off and on then try left and it does the same? if i un plug the trailer the indicator lights all return to normal operation, (there is only an issue with the indicators all other lights are fine with or without the trailer attached), normal wiring IE: to all cables and buzzer hard wired to the rear left lamp cluster down to the new tow socket ? Not a clue whats going on, Just in case i have been sold the incorrect items may i ask if i need a can bus for a 2013 connect with regards to the above issues apologies for the long intro, but i have been at it for well over 5 hours and still can’t sus this issue out, cheers and again HI? Rob.

Many thanks Ill get on the case in the morning, and get one ordered, may i ask if they come with a diagram re installation etc, again thank you Rob

100% not !! It only works if you have two separately coded keys that both can start the car. It won't even work if you have two keys that start the car but they are clones of each other. That procedure was only intended to be used if you had two original keys that both start the engine.

Seems to be taking a long time to check the fuses (12 hours since your post). What was the result ?

Hi everyone, hoping someone can help me. Is there any way I can get the doors on my 2008 ford galaxy to automatically lock when I start driving? All my Previous cars done this but my galaxy doesn't. I have the ghia model if tha makes a difference. Kind regards Hannah

some reason mine needed reset to fold not sure why all done now

Hi all. ive signed up and looking forward to the site. can anyone point me in the direction of a mk3 xr2i bodykit for sale? please doug

hi tomfocus I thought I had given an update but you were right . My brother in law checked it and found they had not tightened it down ( top nut) , problem solved. Why could no one else find the problem? Looking at the price of the body mounting brackets about £6.50 each I ws scammed. once again thanks

Yes, in theory at least.

https://www.valeoservice.co.uk/en-uk/techassist/search#vin

Thank you Tom. you don’t know how I have struggled to get this info. not mentioned on Ford’s website or in my owners manual. thankyou again.

@TomsFocus thanks let me know if you find out please.... and why Valeo as a preference? I've always gone LUK for their "Pro" kits.

Fingers crossed, it ain't pretty!

Personally if I could get the genuine Ford disks and pads for only £40 more than Motor Factor parts then I'd pay the extra. No special tools needed, just a regular socket set and perhaps a 7mm Allen key, but that might not be something that is needed on your brake calipers.

Except VW driveshafts are bolted so easy to remove and keep all the gear oil in the 'box on those... When was the clutch receipt dated out of interest? Does it itemise the clutch parts or list a brand? Might be a budget 3 piece such as Transmech. Definitely one to avoid when sourcing parts yourself.

Hello, For those who are having issues with the SYNC4 navigation getting stuck, go to your Ford garage and put them to upgrade to the latest version of sync and also to rewrite the following modules : APIM, ACM, SBDO, BCM. If they refuse to do this, give them the following reference from Ford: SSM 52379 or TSB-24-2034 - Drive mode defaults to normal mode while driving and message displays in the center display screen with or without DTC U0253 stored in the ABS module

The cooling system capacity listed above is for a drain & refill. If you want to flush the system as well then you'll need extra to do that.

Didn't Wheeler Dealers do an episode recently with one of these which had been imported to Scotland from South Africa?

On my way to the paint shop

Mk3 Focus's are notorious for minor AC leaks. Bought mine at 5 years old/40k miles with no gas... Replaced the condenser and a holed pressure pipe but it still didn't hold the gas for more than a couple of weeks. Presumably been left open a while. Gave up and bought a Golf instead... AC still works on the Golf 6 years later despite minimal use. If you do want to reinstate on the Fiesta, the pipes should be ok, and the evaporator will hopefully not be rotting from the inside out. So I would just recommend replacing all of the seals on the pipes you keep (not as big job as it sounds), plus the filler valves and then the condenser, drier/accumulator and probably the compressor if the short pipe has been left open for a couple of years, that's probably crusty inside now. Shouldn't be anywhere near a grand to DIY.

How I feel after half an hours drive with air conditioning... A regas every year means the system was already leaking. That's not just from 'low use'. I only ever used AC in the heights of summer and rarely ever needed a regas on any car. I hate the drying feeling of AC so for me it is only for cooling. But then I'm not overly sweaty or carrying wet dogs so condensation was never an issue... Back to the question, I don't reckon you'll get away with just a new condenser.

Twin Independent Variable Cam Timing. This system has hydraulic actuators on the cam pulleys to vary the timing.

Think you need to do a compression test.

I'm just curious, why did you never just turn it on?

42 years ago, I paid £4995 new, now, I believe a decent one goes for £15k LOL

Only if your vertically challenged.

Tyre equivalence: Car tyre tips - Pneus Online (tyres-pneus-online.co.uk)

I'm struggling to understand how a garage can justify £350 labour to replace one injector.

266 threads on the subject of faulty boot handle https://www.fordownersclub.com/search/?q="boot handle"&quick=1&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy

Not many people bother with the Instantaneous mpg, most just select the average mpg display.

I really like the Wetherspoon app. No I'm not lazy but I'm just 15 foot from the bar in a very busy pub and just ordered a beautiful pint of Abotts Ale. £1.29 a pint. Is that criminal or simply honest to goodness value for money? I say the latter. Happy Easter everyone 🍻

Correct. 👍 The ESTIMATED range is based on the past 100 miles of driving and is projected forward as a "best guess" If in the last 100 miles you have been driving hard, or stuck in slow moving traffic then the car will have used a lot of fuel. If now you are doing some easy steady driving and making good steady progress then the car will be using less fuel.

been down this road a lot and tried and tested and watched all the videos, pedal locks forget, they cut the end of the pedals off. Club locks are useless, they cut through steering wheel and pull them off. Disklock are the only ones I would say are the best. I have one on my car.. fiddly though, if i used my car daily then I probably would just go for a ghost immobiliser.

Parts catalogue suggests the turbo & injectors are the same on the 75 & 90ps models. They were different on the 110ps model (not fitted to Fiesta). I believe the 75ps model was purposely downtuned for either emissions or insurance purposes. 90ps is easily and reliably achievable from that engine.

I doubt anyone is going to steal a 24 year old disklok 🤣

Disklok (small) is one of the steering locks I've read that's worth buying, the bars aren't as much of a deterrent.

Hi all. Heater fan stopped working on speed 1 and 2 so I had the resistor replaced last weekend. Took me less than 20 minutes but the resistor’s screws are placed a bit awkwardly: Ford Focus Mk2 heater fan resistor replacement

Too much weight ? 🤣🤣 Someone was just bound to say it 😉