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Was made by Teckmarx... Never heard of them. But £60 for a clutch doesn't suggest a high quality item. I agree with Unofix, replace the full 3 piece kit while you've got the 'box off.

I really do need to start typing faster. Once again Tom you beat me to the punch line 🤣

If it's just an advisory they may not need replacing yet. Personally, if there's only a £40 premium for the full set of genuine pads & discs, I'd go with them. Otherwise I'm a fan of Pagid. Only basic tools required. If you've got a set of spanners that's pretty much it. You will need some way to push the piston back in. You can buy proper tools for that, but I generally just put a small pry bar between the old inner pad & disc to lever the piston back in. May crack out the G clamp if that doesn't work... (For rear calipers, they must be wound back in due to handbrake mech, but fronts just push straight back)

Yesterday with the help of a mini telescopic mirror I was able to find it hidden. It is the reference that ends in "AC" I checked it, I disconnected it, I ran CRC on it, but it still doesn't work. I'm going to try another one with the same reference to see if it works.

I did my wife's (old) MK2.5 1.8 a few years ago and ended up removing the manifold. Some people reckopn that that can replace the PCV valve and hose by just loosening the manifold but unless you have hands the size of a 6 year old, I'm not sure how feasable it is. Removing the manifold is not technically difficult, it's moretedious than anything (lots of looms to unclip and some of bolts are hidden). I'd definitely recommend getting hold of a couple of images (front and back) of the manifold (ebay listings etc) and at least you can then see exactly where the bolts are.

See Ford Owners Handbook for full details - Page 160 https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/ENUSA_CG3549_KAA_og_201011.pdf

IIRC they won't fold if the mirror switch is left to one side after adjusting the mirror angle. Switch needs to be in the centre position. My Mk2.5 had factory powerfold mirrors and I never needed to reprogram them after the battery was disconnected. I think the procedure for enabling/disabling is to switch ignition on, hold both front window switches up, and then press the right mirror arrow to enable, or the left mirror arrow to disable. Though as I say, never had to do that after just disconnecting the battery myself.

Criminals do their bit towards helping "Net Zero" by using an EV as a getaway car 🤣

Translation please? 😂

Yes, I sometimes get the felling people commenting about the price of a NEW ev's are not looking at the price of a new ICE car. The cheapest Focus is now over £28K and even the most basic Fiesta is over £19K, it feels like prices have gone mad over the last 4 years. Talking about madness today I saw a used Defender for sale at £74995. OK it was 23 plate, but £75K for a secondhand vehicle sheer lunacy.

Sounds very much like the common dry solder joint problem. Your instrument cluster can be repaired and refurbished for around £85 or less. Look on eBay for companies offering a repair of dashboard instrument clusters or @rd457 can probably help.

Personally, I wouldn't entertain buying a car without A/C, even in the depths of winter, with it running, the windows remain clear as the humidity is taken out of the air. I like the fact it 'conditions' the air. My A/C has not been turned off since I got car, and all cars previous are the same. Up to you, if you can cope in a car without it, and have little regard for any resale value, well go with your gut...

Hi all. ive signed up and looking forward to the site. can anyone point me in the direction of a mk3 xr2i bodykit for sale? please doug

Thanks @TomsFocus so VALEO 834376 in theory should be the correct kit. Appreciate your help.

Just checked Ford parts list and that suggests Finis number 1548409. That only appears in the reference list for CSC 810037. Meaning that 834376 should be the correct 3 piece kit. Simple, right?

The Valeo comes in a prettier box... Seriously though, a few years ago there were rumours around some fake or remanufactured LUK kits being sold in the UK. Must admit I can't remember how much truth was in it or what the outcome was. I haven't had any problems fitting LUK clutches for other people, but preferred Valeo myself as they were the original part back in my Peugeot days. Also liked the clutch aligner tool that came free with Valeo kits, though that may have been costed out nowadays. Bizarrely, the '34' LUK part number is for pre-2006. And was replaced by the '33' part number from 2006 onwards. Not sure how they've calculated that. It seems the clutch plates are the same but the slave cylinder is different. Pre-2006 - LuK Clutch Kit LuK RepSet Pro 622 3151 34 (schaeffler.com) Post 2006 - LuK Clutch Kit LuK RepSet Pro 622 3151 33 (schaeffler.com)

Are we advising a Clutch kit such as: LUK LUK622315133 LUK622315134 or VALEO VLO834376

Found it: https://www.carsparesltd.com/ford-focus-1.8-petrol-2003/product/clutch-friction-cl-clutch-parts-flywheels-clpt-cl/clutch-kit/BHBTMK00172 Appears to be just clutch and pressure plate....no CSC / clutch slave cylinder (with release bearing).

Indeed, hopefully there hasn't been internal damage from hydrolocking 1 or more cylinders 🤞

Personally if I could get the genuine Ford disks and pads for only £40 more than Motor Factor parts then I'd pay the extra. No special tools needed, just a regular socket set and perhaps a 7mm Allen key, but that might not be something that is needed on your brake calipers.

I’ve never had to do anything with the powerfold mirrors after battery disconnected etc had to relearn the one-shot windows but nothing with the mirrors

Hi thanks for the reply no there’s nothing on the negative terminal so I’m guessing I don’t need to reset, everything seems as it should just need to change date and time on the menu

Could have happened in an ICE car as well, I suppose. The moral really would seem to be check the fuel gauge or battery range remaining before you drive off in it!

I updated my list on the thread when I got the present car last year. Can't see a further update on the horizon - in for first service yesterday and both the service guy and my usual salesperson said " hang on to that, there won't be any more cars like that". The sales guy was actually just in the process of selling their last ever new Fiesta (a white ST).

Certainly does. New Suzuki Swift seems to be getting favourable reviews, not least because it starts under £19k, as does the full ICE version of the Renault Clio. Even £19k though, seems hard to swallow when its not long since cars like this would have started around £12-14k (cheapest Mk 8 Fiesta was £13,695 at launch). But maybe I'm just getting old and behind the times. I came away from my first service yesterday thinking "hmm, I could have bought both my first two cars together (s/h, of course) for the price of that!"😀

Blimey, had totally forgotten about that thread... I typed out the full list again in a Word doc earlier this year! That list is 7 cars short now... But yes, sadly the Focus pictured above was sold in 2018, then failed MOT during covid, and was never returned to the road, so I assume scrapped.

Didn't Wheeler Dealers do an episode recently with one of these which had been imported to Scotland from South Africa?

If your existing door has an electric window then you need to transfer it over to the replacement door. The only thing that you should be using from the replacement door is the actual metal door. All other parts need to be transferred over.

Hmm. So maybe I'll order up a condenser so at least with my upcoming week off work I can get the rad pack assembled with all new parts (rad end tank appears to be leaking) and properly fit my PAS cooler and go from there and seek advice from an air con specialist about best way to proceed. If there's any risk of the evaporator in the heater matrix being gone I really don't fancy taking the dash out, but if it's just seals and a dryer then at least I've already got the condenser in place and I won't have to dismantle the front of the car again.

On my way to the paint shop

Lol, it's a bit late for that - check out Tom's entry on this car history thread: https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/103261-car-history/

Yes, but not that quickly on a full, sealed system. Mine would generally go 9 or 10 months without any use. Oil clings to surfaces pretty well. Much bigger issue is leaving the system empty of gas with air & moisture inside instead.

Quite normal. There's an electric coolant pump that circulates the coolant when ign off /very hot. . Follow the pipes and you will find it .

Not many people bother with the Instantaneous mpg, most just select the average mpg display.

You need to be using the "vLinker FS" these days with the latest version of FORScan. vLinker FS cable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP The old ELM327(switched) will still work with a 2011 model but to save having to replace it next time you change your car it's better to just get the vLinker FS which is automatic switching, works with all past and present Ford models and is compatible with Windows 11

To be honest from a maintenance point of view the redesigned 1.0 ECOboost with a timing chain is not much better than the previous generation 1.0 ECOboost. On the redesigned 1.0 ECOboost the oil pump belt is installed behind the timing chain. Changing the oil pump belt simply means that the sump, engine front cover and timing chain need to be removed to get access. Once removed it is good practice to replace the timing chain, plastic chain guides and chain tensioner. Replacing the oil pump belt on the redesigned 1.0 ECOboost is basically just as labour intensive and expensive as replacing both the wetbelt and oil pump belt on the previous generation 1.0 ECOboost. I suspect many future problems with these engines due to the fact that many owners and used car dealers do know that these revised engines have a timing chain but are not aware of the oil pump belt.

Two separate wet belts on the Mk3 Only a wet belt for the oil pump on the Mk4

It appears that in response to the collective action in France, Stellantis are now taking action over timing belt issues. Stellantis, ten years after the launch of the 1.2 Puretech engine (1.2VTi/1.2 THP in the past) who own the former PSA brands, namely Citroen, DS, Opel and Peugeot, are finally taking after-sales measures to address the problem linked to premature aging of the timing belt. The Stellantis group justifies this reaction with the sentence: "Having customer satisfaction as one of its fundamental values, Stellantis confirms the extension of the warranty for certain 3-cylinder PureTech gasoline engines, in specific circumstances". An interesting point is that Stellantis recognises that "the belt (supplied by Dayco) is a collateral victim and not the cause of the problem". https://www.largus.fr/actualite-automobile/stellantis-1-2-puretech-une-extension-de-garantie-etendue-pour-le-probleme-de-la-courroie-30032881.html

I've never seen any test reports on the different make of wet cambelts. I'd be interested to see the actual results. Of course as already said by Ray (see above) it is not the strength of the belt that is the problem, as most do not snap. The main issue is the belt disintegrating and the bits of belt clogging up the oil pick up strainer.

The issue with the Ford cam belt has nothing to do with strength. Issues lie with gradual deterioration, and eventual blockage of the oil pump pick up strainer, leading to oil starvation for various key components. Apart from the original Ford branded belt, there are alternatives available from other major belt manufacturers. For instance I'm currently using a BGA TB2322 instead of the usual Ford/Dayco option and there are others.

The 2008 Mondeo will have an Aisin Warner Transmission that does not have any official service requirements. The 2011 Mondeo will have a Getrag Powershift 6DCT450 transmission that definitely does have a service requirement to have any chance of a decent life. It requires an oil and filter service every 3 years or 37,500 miles, whichever occurs first. Lots of videos on line on how to do a service correctly

Kevlar reinforced wetbelts would not be effective. They would still get damaged by contaminants in the oil like detergents and fuel.

Vast amounts of confusion over VW cambelt change intervals on the various forums, not least because VW group seem to have different recommendations in different countries, even within Europe. Also recommendations have varied between brand eg VW, Skoda, SEAT, even where the same engine is used. They have historically tended to have 4-5 year/60,000 mile change intervals, however I have seen mention recently of 15 years for the very latest 1.5Tsi engines, provided the car is not being used in "extreme conditions". VW belts are all "dry" however. I've not heard of any change of material used for Ford "wet" belts and the maximum recommended interval is still 10 years, though 7 years as you propose sounds a wise precaution.

The Ford rubber belt lasts the lifetime of the engine. When it fails the engine is dead.

Diskloks are certainly good (I've had one a lot longer than 24 years and it (or the car it's attached to) have never been stolen). Can be a bit of a fiddle to put on and off though, particularly if doing multiple stops and I do also have a brake lock which is easier to use for a quick pop into the shops: https://www.milenco.com/products/automotive-security/automotive-security-wheel-locks

Not cheap but they are worth the additional coast. I've had mine about 24 years and it still going strong

Hi all. Heater fan stopped working on speed 1 and 2 so I had the resistor replaced last weekend. Took me less than 20 minutes but the resistor’s screws are placed a bit awkwardly: Ford Focus Mk2 heater fan resistor replacement

The seat frame welds can crack though usually you'd feel the seat drop on one corner. Best bet is probably to remove the seat and look underneath.

Collecting my mk1 focus tomorrow, good to read the threads already posted cheers chaps il keep my eye on the areas mentioned all seems good so far tho :)